Leon

Just measured my hub adapter, sorry for the delay! I kept forgetting about it and have the Z at work today so I grabbed my ruler and it measured out to approximately 3.125". This is a less than 1-year-old Momo hub.

I can measure my hub tonight as well.

My Momo Race and hub are spaced exactly where the stock wheel was. It depends on the amount of dish the aftermarket wheel has and the length of the adapter. Get a flatter wheel, use an adapter and you'll be fine. I don't know of any smaller diameter wheels that fit the 240Z steering shaft splines.

Take the ducting off when you're driving on the street.

No, the bushing should not cause notchiness, unless the washer you inserted is interfering with something. Install a new bushing and see how it feels. If you still get notchiness in 2nd, then I'd say your syncro is going out. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html You can try other fluids after that, there were recent discussions on varying transmission fluids.

Plan A makes the most sense. You will have an almost instantaneous response time with the regulator there and you will constantly be flowing cool fuel through the lines. Plan B makes no sense (redundant lines), and C is the same as A. Plan D works but wont regulate and dissipate heat as well as A. Josh's plan makes the fuel pump work harder, thus heating up the fuel more and also slows the response time of the regulator.

Jon, I understand that. However, the ITS racers must use stock brakes and don't lose the pedal during a race. I'm sure they utilize brake ducting but it appears as though stock brakes are good enough when properly maintained and set up. In fact, after reviewing the thread, you made essentially the same comment in post #17. You have also divulged that your brake ducting was inadequate. I think we can conclude that the stock brakes, with aggressive friction material, high-temp brake fluid and good ducting will work just fine, even on extended track sessions.

Amen! People love doing "upgrades" for the sake of upgrading. Tires matter magnitudes more than your calipers. A properly-maintained stock system with agressive friction material and high-temp brake fluid works great, even on the track. Ask the ITS guys. Put your money into your tires and it will change your car. Nice call on the R-S3, I plan to get the same for my Z in the near future.

Good call.

Possibly, but it's not a great solution. It'll help prevent cavitation of the mechanical pump, so the electric pump only solves the problem if the mechanical pump was experiencing cavitation. Otherwise, you'll have the same issues.

Make or get a heat shield, especially if your carbs are hot to the touch after a run. Make sure the fuel rail is well-insulated at its mounts. If the problem persists, then re-route the fuel lines within the engine bay. A good heat shield should be #1 on your list.

Scrapped mine, looks much cleaner without. It's not factory anyway, just another dealer-installed cost-adder.

I had a terrible vibration at highway speeds caused by loose driveshaft bolts. Check those ASAP.

There are no shifter cables. A bad bushing would cause excessive play in the shifter, no matter which gear you're in. I'd check it anyway, though. First thing I'd do is a good bleed of the clutch hydraulics, if you haven't already done so. Then, change the transmission fluid. I think the bushing, bleed and fluid will likely take care of it, but if not, then your 2nd gear syncro is probably not doing too well.

You could easily perform a leakdown test, but you'd need a source of compressed air.

:lmao:

THANK YOU. Many get so caught up in R/S ratios as if it's some holy grail. It's not, so forget about it. A well built engine will have everything sized to everything else. Worry about making things work together. PMC mentions exhaust tuning, and I'll add intake tuning to that as well, as it's the same thing for all intents and purposes. Make the cam, intake and exhaust work in harmony, get pistons that wont explode at the high rpms you want to spin and you're set.

FWIW, the Shelby Daytona was designed by Pete Brock of BRE fame.

You're free to do what you want, no one's stopping you. We're providing constructive criticism besides the typical "he said, she said." We're talking physics, not what one person or the other has done. Obviously it's your car, so you can do as you please.

Precisely...

Ok... read the article. Nothing in there about aerodynamics and its effects on cooling and lift, I didn't spot anything technical at all really. Just because someone did it, doesn't make it "right", no matter who that someone is. That would be like just taking someone's word for it instead of critically thinking about it for yourself. I suppose you can say that it works, if your definition of "works" is that it runs and drives on the street. However, this definition (or specification) is application specific. From what I see, you're building more of a track car. The one in the article is, for all intents and purposes, a show car. Maybe a definition of "works" for you would be that temps don't excessively climb during a 30min track session and front lift is as low as possible. Maybe not, the specifications are up to you. I'm simply making suggestions and giving some constructive criticism, take it for what it's worth. I would just advise you to read the Aero section of this forum as well as threads pertaining to venting and preventing excessive underhood air pressure. If you want some anecdotal evidence, then I'd ask you why is it that everyone else seeks to block the front end off, when building the Z for tracking or even land speed record runs? I'm not even sure what the problem was before, exactly. You said you don't want to boil your fluids. Is that what happened last time? Were you using fresh, high-temp brake fluid? What cooling problems did you have before that you're trying to relieve now? Sorry if this has been covered in your thread, but I don't have time to read through however-many pages of posts just to make sure that I didn't miss anything.

Couldn't have said it better myself! I will admit to enjoying mathematical exercises, though.

No kidding! Yeah, I noticed it when coming to a stop and accelerating from a stop. It was loud enough to present itself! Once I have my garage back, I can install new diff and tranny mounts along with my RT diff mount. That should get rid of most if not all driveline lash and make it even tighter. I'm really wanting to put in that ZX 5-speed and CLSD, but I'm hoping to go to the dyno first. Need to button up that Megajolt system, too. I've lost the nice wiring I purchased to wire it up during the house remodeling, so I'll have to go to the local electronics supply store and get some more shielded wiring and connectors. First order of business is to install that ZX fan already so that I can fit the VR sensor in there. Then I need to find a spot to mount the controller, make a relay bracket and mount the EDIS unit somewhere. After that, it's all wiring. There are always things to be done...

This is why I linked the Kameari web site in my previous post. This is straight from the manufacturer: 4mm equates to .157". 'Nuf said. Re-read the original question, you've misinterpreted it. The reason for the question is that with the head shaved .080", no cam shims, and the gear chain tensioner your cam timing will be retarded because of a shorter relative distance between cam and crank centerlines. OP was interested in using the stock cam sprocket (for whatever reason). In order to account for this, you must know how much the timing has been thrown off, knowing that the stock sprocket allows for 4 degree intervals of adjustment. I mathematically approximated the cam timing to be retarded by 4.6 crank degrees (please, do not rely on this number). Therefore, when using the second hole in the stock sprocket, the cam would be 0.6 degrees retarded or close to "straight up" when using a stock cam. This answers this original question, although I strongly recommend actually measuring the cam sprocket diameter and redoing the calc. As I and others have recommended, using a sprocket with more adjustment would be much more beneficial especially under the assumption that if you spend $800 on a chain tensioner, then you'd be fine with dropping some more for an adjustable sprocket. As the OP realized, using an adjustable sprocket and a degree wheel to actually degree the cam is a much better idea than approximating timing change due to machining and trying to use a stock sprocket to make up for it.

Then he either set it up wrong, or something went amiss. There is no reason that a properly working, properly regulated EFI pump should not be able to supply enough fuel at low pressure. We are talking physics here, not anecdotal evidence.