aarang

Looks like they stripped the threads in the port and tried sealing it. What do the threads in there look like?

Interested. Do you include a base tune by chance?

Does he have receipts for all the work so you know what your actually dealing with?

You have Megasquirt and live in the same state as Delta Cams. It would be a waste to use the stock cam. Has the head been ported that you can tell? Again, if it was me with that setup, I would pay the extra $100-$150 for a different cam. You'd probably be nearly at your 200HP mark with a proper tune.

Interested

Had the same problem with my ZX at the track. First time it happened it felt as though the car was going to split in two. Had to slip the clutch alot to calm the hopping down, but lowering my tire pressures pretty much stopped it in my car. I have poly bushings as well. Interesting, though is my car went 13.2 at 108 with the stock turbo and ECU

Hey guys. I have an F54 with Ross forged pistons that was built about 10 or so years ago and just sits on a stand in the garage. Turbo dish pistons, balanced, studded, etc. I have all the receipts for the build, $1000 just for machine work. Its new, never ran. Have been messing around with Z's for a long time and the prices for stuff nowadays blows my mind, but thats good for us who hoarded parts. What would something like this be worth? $1500? May do an LS swap so thinning the stock. Thanks

For those that may be interested. Not mine but looks decent for the price, enjoy https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/5522783330.html

Not to thread jack, but wasn't the car in that Touge Factory article the one from the original Senza Pari intake manifold buy? Curious as to why its getting another intake fabricated.

Eastco machine in Gresham, OR

For those that may be interested. Not mine, but cheap and its a Slick top manual with black interior https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/5237216889.html enjoy

Control arms are the same, you need an engine cross memeber for the manual rack and the manual rack itself.

Just wondering what ground you found bad and if indeed it is fixed?

83 ECU doesnt use external dropping resistors, although that is a good point about the injector drivers overheating. What type of injectors are you using?

Lean when cold should point you in the direction of the CHT sensor. Slight resistance changes in that circuit change the fueling pretty dramatically. You stated that the connectors have been changed which is a good start. The wiring in these cars is 30+ years old now and does break down with time. I have taken numerous harnesses apart and seen the horror that lies beneath, and have had temperature related drivability issues that were directly related to the wiring itself. Maybe try running new wires from the CHT to the ECU, or at least check resistance of the wires between the CHT and ECU both cold and hot. There is a resistance/temp range chart in the Service manual that gives the proper values for the CHT signal to the ECU.

Check the EFI relay. I had one that was getting hot and did almost the same thing. Just like Tony said, the ECU does not like low voltage. I wired in a new generic relay and got rid of the fusible links and the problem went away. Check resistance and voltage at your fusible links for the ECU and injectors if you still have them, especially after the engine has been running a while. Also, what is the state of your alternator/ battery? Just some things to consider.

Saw that car in person around '97. Very well executed.

Washington State has a 25yr rolling exemption from emissions. So as of now anything before 1990 wouldn't need to be tested. I've done swaps on older cars and never had to have anything inspected here. Never had a problem after being pulled over here either. I have collector car plates on mine and I don't even have to buy tags every year anymore.

There should be a rubber strip attached to the front of the hood underneath to cover up the gap. Looks like that is missing.

Hell, sometimes $500 is epic.

Just wondering why the engine needs an overhaul? Unless you know it's in poor condition just use it. I've installed engines that have sat outside for ten + years in the weather, uncovered with unknown mileage and have gone another 100K. They are ALOT more durable than you think, not like domestic stuff of the same era. I would run the thing and see what happens. I bet it will be fine.

Just ordered one.

Interested

Just grab it to have it if it is cheap enough. They'll only be more valuable as time goes on...at least that's what I tell my wife

The 27x12x3 universal intercooler is what I have in my ZX, and is a good fit. I got it for $92 w/free shipping a few years back. The rest I pieced together from universal aluminum bends and couplers. Total cost was about $250 if I remember right. I drew a crude drawing of the engine bay and how I wanted the pipes to go so I wouldn't buy too much. Just plan it out first so there is no waste.