frank280zx

Another update I shaved the scoop and after the pictures i smoothend out the welds with some bondo, so now all is left to do is paint, and then on the fun stuff! So im allmost done with 'cosmetics' and my air cleaner finally fits! Note that even with a 'drop base' aircleaner i still have only about 1" room between the top of the 4" cowl and the filter upfront So an s130 has allot lower hoodline compared to an s30

haha ill steal someones words here " Great work Frank, showing what a S130 can really do with a bit of development " Looking good!

Thanks your not a bad example yourself for that matter. Im still thinking of some kind of vette IRS with a tremec gearbox in the back down the line! But first things first en get some durability in this car.. (ione has to keep dreaming right!) Anyhow here is update to make the hood shut It is the bulge from a beta motorsport 4"cowl hood, funny enough the s30 has the same radius as a s130. The vents had to be welded shut and i will rivet the bulge top the hood, it give s a nice racy feel to it! And it makes me able to leave the bulge CF. I have to admit it was one of the things i kept doubting until i started welding, but well Function over form i guess. the other option was doing something with carp spacer but that still would make things tight, and would alter the engines tuning. I will try to seal the underhood area from the cowl, so i really will have a cowl induction system!

Laws in Germany are allot stricter on TUV, but why don’t you do it via Holland? Since it is all EU if it is registered there they HAVE to accept it even if it has a 2.8, We do the same with GTR's via England or Germany And actually a car 25 years old is not submersed to the 19% law, especially if you ship it as a incomplete vehicle Anyhow lets talk and see where i can pitch in, i have some experiance on my hand with importing cars and z's Your best bet is not to mail people in advance but to be in the states and drop by. My experiance with most Americans is that they tend to 'fear' foreighners due to scammers etc. (sorry guys im not trying to offend anyone here). And you dont have to fear that there is no z's arround you will be amazed by what you find there !

Well i finished welding up my 'fuel supply' In april ill buy a load of AN fittings in California to 'wire'it all up Futher more i added to hatcht tie downs to keep the hatch securely in place!

Looking great funny i did half of these things to accomedate my M62B44 v8 than i dumped for the SBC 406 I love BMW!!! Im starting to lean more and more towards an m57 in a more daily oriented z ... hmmm someday !! Here are some specs: And they are dirt cheap ... ooh yeah and diesel M57TU2D30 2,993 cc (2.993 L; 182.6 cu in) 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp)@4000, 580 N·m (430 lb·ft)@2000-2250

I agree with the detonation analsys Remember detonation is an erratic form of combustion that apart from causing head gasket failure also is wel capableof causing other engine damage. Detonation occurs when excessive heat and pressure in the combustion chamber cause the air/fuel mixture to autoignite. This produces multiple flame fronts within the combustion chamber instead of a single flame kernel. When these multiple flames collide, they do so with explosive force that produces a sudden rise in cylinder pressure accompanied by a sharp metallic pinging or knocking noise. The hammer-like shock waves created by detonation subject the head gasket, piston, rings, spark plug and rod bearings to severe overloading. And yes the pictures shown look allot like sever detonation.. and it is consistent with the sound heard (metal knocking) Not FOD 9 though the pieces knocked of by the detonation might cause "FOD" but sure as hell this is caused by leaning out big time. Sorry to see it.. but that one will need a complete rebuild (check your bearings aswel)

ill pass it

Another update, i made test setting for the swirl pot next to the pot i have to mount the low pressure pump and filters, on the underside i mounted the diff cooling pump.. Also i mounted a new tow hook as i mounted it upfront but never got arround doing the back during the time attack season.. this year it is time do it right!

Yesterday i figured lets build instead of buy! And i fabricated a swirl pot from Stainles! Pressure tetsted it so im happy, not i have to build it into the car where the spare used to go, i also have my diff pump and fuel filter there

So Another saturday of tolling has passed, and i made some great progres! the engine is back in, i heat shielded the wire loom with a sleeve and did some other small stuff.. anyhow here are the pictures: Im still not to happy with the water hoses... im looking for a silicone solution to the 'problem', not only does it look 'cheapish'it also has proven to be a point of failure in the previous set up ( blowing the hoses off) This could be solved by welding a bead to the end.. but .. well it is not like i want it. (haha i can ramble allot about a hose) Next things left to do are: - flock the dash and strip it - Make swirl pot and fuel filter in the rear - Get a bunch of steel braided hose and AN couplers And probably some more loos ends

rwdawg2 what do you want to know, i have been riding with diffrent sort of 5 lug set ups aswel ( all z31 or R32) Currently i am using the z32 calipers on my track hack

haha finally more people are lengting their a arms.. i set a hipe 8 years back with z31 set up but that is one hell of s130!! Mine is in severe face lift aswel ( diffrent blok, tons of small things)

Starting the build up again! I’m going to flock my dashboard and run my ETB dash, next to that changes in the rules in my Time attack class forced me to take a drill and .. see pictures attached. Flocking my dash and headliner will make the interior allot cleaner in my book, i have to say im really happy with the 're''build sofar. I decided to keep my heating so im running new hoses. To bad installing all these makes it look ‘cluttered' again but I’m fairly sure once all is in place it will look allot cleaner; Specs sofar -Full Cage. -5 lug swap. ( z31 turbo) -Spax coil overs (s13) -poly bushing. -MSA sway bars. -Adjustable end links. -Z32 tt Brake disk and R33 skyline calipers, EBC Blue stuff pads, Motul brake oil, steel lines. -406 SBC v8, King deamon 950 carb 12:1 compressie 533,4 HP. -T5 gearbox with tilton 3 plate clutch and hurst shifter. -3.36 OBX hlsd with z31 turbo axles. -Diff cooler. -AFCO Aluminum radiator. -2x 2,5 Stainles pipes into 3,5" straigt and dynomax muffler. -Sparco Seat and crow 5 point harness. -Hydrolic E brake -ETB digi dash

toyo R888's or ADVAN a048 if you ask me

Eeehmmmmm look and see i dont think fly by wire was hip in 78 do you

LOL you might strat think of adding a solid lead bumper to get some weight on your wheels .. Jeez that thing is back in there!! looking great!!

Davey, There are a million ways to more HP some are pricey some are cheaper. I personally found out when i had to have a car running but my engine wasn’t finished, that a flat top NA engine ( euro spec in this case so slightly more compression) with a e88 head ( or if you can find a Maxima head) Will bump compression enough to make it a very fast little car.. This was with the stock cam, stock ECU but a 55MM TB and a MSA header and some mild headwork. So my tip if you want it cheap and relatively fast; -Source a late NA block -Source a e88 or maxima head -Get a mild port job or just clean and port match your runners yourself -Order a ISKY ( iskanderian) Cam kit for mild street use ( a rally cam if you may) -Get an MSA header and a free flowing exhaust -swap the complete engine and sell yours This could all be done around a 1000 us i guess (cheaper to but better do it right) Further if cash permits you might consider chopping weight by adding Fiberglas parts here and there, talk to John for that

I love it i never knew the had M3 engines without ITB's or is that a US thing ?

I do agree it would get you waived of track/black flagged her in Europe before you even looked at the pit lane.. However i love that car it has been an inspiration for my ZXR as it is more a weekend warrior and not a full track car either ( for that i have a beamer and a s130 isma replica in the making) I like the race look and feel of the car but at the same time it appeals for long canyon road trips. Like said great ride! Only thing that doesnt fly with my personal taste are the cheapish looking seats.. A set of Bride low maxxes would solve that! What wheels are those ?

my v8 zxr

I figured let show some progress over the winter for my car The ZXR it has tons of goodies actually. I have two ZX’s a s130 that I’m converting to a full track car by fIA Standards with the ISMA wide body kit ect http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/82085-78-280zx-v8-305-sbc-racetrack-toy/page__p__919858__hl__%2B406+%2Bsbc__fromsearch__1#entry919858 But I have come to path that I’m not changing much to the cars any more The ZXR works great with the V8 and the 5 lugs, it has 88 front turbo hubs with z32tt disks and R33 alu calipers, steel brake lines, It has coilovers on all corners vented disk in the rear ect etc .. actually the whole nine yards. There are still improvements to made as im looking to modify my front A arms a bit more to become adjustable with heim joints and do the same to the rears. I have the same sets to make for my track car so I might aswel do this to both cars. This winter i decided it has been time to do something about the engine bay and paint it satin black with two component sigma coating ( rust proofing my Socal car for European environmental influences) Ill let the pictures do the talking. This car is full caged street warrior Time attack tool

I finished the suspension mostly, on to modyfying the the front and rear control arms now.. but not a whole lot new sadly, most energy went into my zxr Time attack tool. The zxr got a 406 SBC so this car will get a prepped l28 with forged internals Japanese ported head, special cam, ITB's etc.. i have all those covered. This give me admission to more race classes than running the v8 But im collecting parts here and there and will take a week of work somewhere in the future months to make a big leap.

I know.. but is always good to point out the downside to what you are doing .. so you dont have people ding the; "monkey see, monkey do" It might work but im not 100% convinced.. there is a reason for sectioning struts you know

To Bad you cant really go much lower than standard lowering springs .. as the strut wil bottom out and redeem them useless after one bumb..