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I did it with my front bar, and am much happier with it than I was with the original mounting points embedded in the frame rails. There's a couple of threads on this technique here on HybridZ.....I think maybe Jon Mortensen did a little write-up on it at one point? If you search, you should find them. (Hint: Google search works better than the website's organic search function....just be sure to include "HybridZ" in your search string.) P.S. Looking at your pictures again, it appears that those welds don't really have much penetration....so another reason to not use those mounting points.

I personally would not use that. Would it fail during use? Depends on a whole host of factors.....what kind of usage, sway bar thickness, spring rates, what kind of tires, etc, etc. If all your driving is pleasure cruising on the streets, it's probably fine. If you're building a car for any serious kind of track use, then it's probably not fine. Don't know why a PO would do that unless the original mounting holes had become rusted out or stripped. There's a technique to strengthen the sway bar mounts by sandwiching the entire frame rail with steel plates and running long bolts all the way through the frame rail (from top to bottom) to provide the mounting points. You need to run correctly-sized steel tubes through the frame rails to ensure that the long bolts don't crunch the frame rails when tightening. Good luck with it.

Wow, nice start for your first Z car. Welcome. (We also have a "New Members" sub-forum, if you care to post there as well.) http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/68-new-members-forum/

SOLD. Admins can delete thread, if desired. Thx.

Full set of BC Coilover springs for sale. One pair is 62.220.006, never installed. One pair is 62.180.005, lightly used. $50 per pair, shipped anywhere in the U.S; or $90 for all four springs shipped anywhere in the U.S. Thanks for looking.

Weird. I've used those same plugs for years without any issues; but IIRC, gap them a little larger....maybe 0.043"? Plug gap too small might be the root cause of the issue.

Those Vision X pieces look nice, but too rich for my blood right now. For the time being, I've converted to Hella housings with the best H4 bulbs I could find (and obviously, fed directly off the alternator). Worlds better than the crappy old sealed beams.

Wow....looks great!

Good find, Nelsonian....that was buried pretty deep on the website. Looks like some pretty pieces of hardware, although it does seem odd that the rear disk conversion (and possibly larger front calipers?) would work well w/o any master cylinder changes. I'd be interested to know what they're charging for everything. (blu240Z, do you have that info?)

Yeah, that really doesn't provide a lot of info on what they include in their "brake upgrade". I checked out their website and couldn't find any info about any specific products. There are many threads here about brake upgrades, for both the front and rear (to include rear disk swaps). Probably a good thing to peruse those before you hand a bunch of your hard-earned dough to a shop for something you may or may not be happy with at the end of the day.

This is a good thread to get you started on your research. 87 pages of wheel and tire combos, fenders both flared and unflared. Obviously, many of the older posts no longer contain their original photos; but nearly all the data and pics within the last few years is still available.

Good headlights are not cheap. I've been looking at the Truck-lite LED units for a while. They seem to be one of the most affordable options of high-quality lighting, IMHO.

Talcum powder can be used to identify leaks and drips. Spread it lightly around the affected area, and you may get tell-tale tracks to help ID the source of the leak.

Google search will usually yield better results than the website's organic search function.....just make sure you include "HybridZ" in your Google search string.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111470-line-lock/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128459-revisiting-the-line-lock/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/107085-installing-brake-line-locks/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/4757-line-lock/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97774-line-lock-roll-control/

Nice car, nice price....GLWS.

Yes, pump will run slower/weaker with less voltage. Once the engine is running, the alternator will be charging the system at 13.5 - 14 volts; which will obviously be plenty sufficient for the fuel pump. Good luck with it.

If the wiring is original (i.e. not modified by a previous owner), the black lead for the fuel pump should be ground. Don't remember for sure what color the positive lead is.....possibly white or yellow? Poor grounds are very typically the source of electrical issues with these old cars. Check your ground wire for good ground, as NewZed suggested.

Yeah, I know the style you're talking about for trucks and jeeps. Most of those are either clip-on, stick-on (with adhesive tape), or screw-on onto the inner lip of the fender (which is not visible unless you're lying on the ground looking up). Have never seen that style ever produced for the S30; but maybe there's a market for them....you never know. Here's a good discussion of this same topic from a few years ago. One suggestion was to roll the fenders before installing the flares, which would help mitigate some of the clearance issues you face when you don't cut back the fenders. May be helpful....:

Nice-looking 240. I suppose you *could* mount standard flares right on the lower edge of the fenders with glue or double-sided tape, which might give you the look you're seeking. You would then have to either space the wheels out (with spacers/wheel adapters), in order to "fill" the flare -- otherwise it would look really silly to have flares sticking way out but wheels and tires buried deep inside. You would have to be extremely careful to measure and test fit everything to ensure that the wider stance does not result in interference between the tires and the fender sheetmetal. Suspension travel would likely be limited, otherwise you're looking at a major interference issue. All in all, a lot of work for pure aesthetics IMHO....and possibly to the detriment of functionality. It actually looks like this is how your current flares are mounted, from looking at your pictures (except they are screwed in for mounting, vs tape or glue). If those tires were wider, I'm sure there would be interference issues. Drilling holes for the mounting hardware is actually very minimally invasive. The real "damage" is done when cutting the sheetmetal to enable wheel movement and suspension travel, especially in the rear because you're cutting the unibody and having to reweld after cutting. Probably not the answers you wanted.....

Hey Wayne, thanks very much for that generous offer; but I'm going to take a pass for now.....still have a few used gauges of my own I'm trying to sell. If I see anyone looking for tach and speedo, I'll be sure to send them your way!

Now THAT'S a deal!!!

The same blower is used for heat, fresh air, defrost and AC (even on dealer-installed AC systems). You may possibly have two flaps inoperative, if you are getting neither heat in the footwells nor defrost on the windshield. I would also check the ducts feeding the defroster. They can often pop off their inlets/outlets, or just disintegrate altogether....they're made of some kind of cloth material.

If the HVAC system has been replaced and/or modified by a previous owner, there's really no way to answer your question. The stock system is very simple and straightforward. A valve controls the amount of hot water coming through the heat exchanger and mechanical cables operate the flaps to direct the air into the cabin. If you're not getting airflow from the lower vents in the footwells or the defroster vents, either the flap's not directing the air where you want it or the ducts are not transporting the air where you want it. When you switch ventilation modes (e.g. from vent to heat to defroster), can you hear the flap system moving? It usually makes a very obvious sound when it's being manipulated. The AC modifications may have rigged the system to only blow air through the central vents; but the only way to know for sure is to dig into it. They could have disabled components of the system by removing control cables, removing certain ducts, blocking off certain parts of the ducting system, etc. That would be my guess from your description of the issue. BTW, from your picture....that is the stock blower, so it does not appear that the AC modifications replaced the OEM blower with an aftermarket blower.

Yeah, it certainly does look like a seat belt warning relay; but those were only intended for models with A/T (as tamo3 was alluding to). Are there any numbers/letters stamped on it?