jhm

As you obviously are already aware, the 700-R4 is a big case to fit in the trans tunnel.....what mounting position/mounting kit are you using for the motor? Also, what differential are you using?

You are correct on all counts. I haven't seen any produced anytime recently. They will occasionally pop up for sale in used condition, but they are becoming extremely hard to find. Apparently, they are a bit more readily available in Japan than elsewhere....but not cheap. Some guys have fabricated their own custom hatches, which may account for the differences in style that you noted. I'm fairly certain that molds still exist, so you might be able to have someone create a single hatch for you from a mold. Check out the discussion threads on ClassicZCar.com, and you might get some useful leads. I personally like the look of the Pantera hatch, but not everyone does, as you've already noticed. Whatever you decide to do, good luck with it.

Nice car, nifty seats....GLWS.

Not my ad, but a pretty good deal. Wish this had come up two years ago, before I bought my rust-bucket special. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/359481901480997 (Admins: if this is the wrong sub-forum to post this in, please feel free to delete and/or move. Thanks.)

Holiday bump -- $25 plus shipping.

The main reason I brought up the FB group is because so many folks there are doing reverse headers for turbo installations. Good luck with it.

Are you asking WRT NA (i.e. non-turbo) applications? Also, are you on any of the FB forums? There's a good one for V8 Z's, with guys doing insane swaps and custom fab...."V8 S30 Owners Group".

https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/5-lug-front-hubs-datsun-260z-and-280z

If there's enough thread to thread on two nuts, you tighten them together, then wrench on the inner nut to remove the stud. Otherwise, vise grips is probably the best non-welding solution, as suggested by the others. The

If you're on FB, Harold Burroughs has one for sale on "Datsun Parts and Needs".....don't recall if it's for a Series 1. https://www.facebook.com/groups/TheZGang/?multi_permalinks=1934760669892395&notif_id=1543455023197491&notif_t=group_highlights

Here's another interesting option for LED headlights....anyone using these? Seems like a good price, and Silvermine is known for quality products. https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-280z/body-parts/240z-260z-280z-led-headlight-low-beam-hi-beam-driving-light-blinker-sae-dot-compliant

Here's another couple links you might like....there's some parts interchangeability between S130s and 510's, particularly front suspension IIRC. https://ratsun.net/ http://www.the510realm.com/

Those are pretty aggressive offsets you're considering; so to answer your question....yes, they would certainly "fill" the flares; and could quite possibly exceed the flares, depending on your tire choice. Tire selection will be a big consideration obviously. Low aspect tires on the thin side obviously require way less clearance from the fenders & flares than wider rubber. There are other factors that will play a role as well: how much is the suspension lowered, how much neg camber are you running, etc, etc. I would definitely invest in a wheel mockup tool to ensure your planned setup will work before dropping the change on new parts. You can even make your own measurement tool with some simple hardware. Finally, you are aware that some DRW use differing lug tapers on their lug nut holes, I'm assuming? Using the wrong tapered lug nut can be a major safety issue.

I've already PM'ed; and haven't heard back. I think he's waiting to see if anyone swoops in to scoop the whole lot before making decisions on individual parts. That's probably what I would do.

I did it with my front bar, and am much happier with it than I was with the original mounting points embedded in the frame rails. There's a couple of threads on this technique here on HybridZ.....I think maybe Jon Mortensen did a little write-up on it at one point? If you search, you should find them. (Hint: Google search works better than the website's organic search function....just be sure to include "HybridZ" in your search string.) P.S. Looking at your pictures again, it appears that those welds don't really have much penetration....so another reason to not use those mounting points.

I personally would not use that. Would it fail during use? Depends on a whole host of factors.....what kind of usage, sway bar thickness, spring rates, what kind of tires, etc, etc. If all your driving is pleasure cruising on the streets, it's probably fine. If you're building a car for any serious kind of track use, then it's probably not fine. Don't know why a PO would do that unless the original mounting holes had become rusted out or stripped. There's a technique to strengthen the sway bar mounts by sandwiching the entire frame rail with steel plates and running long bolts all the way through the frame rail (from top to bottom) to provide the mounting points. You need to run correctly-sized steel tubes through the frame rails to ensure that the long bolts don't crunch the frame rails when tightening. Good luck with it.

Wow, nice start for your first Z car. Welcome. (We also have a "New Members" sub-forum, if you care to post there as well.) http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/68-new-members-forum/

SOLD. Admins can delete thread, if desired. Thx.

Full set of BC Coilover springs for sale. One pair is 62.220.006, never installed. One pair is 62.180.005, lightly used. $50 per pair, shipped anywhere in the U.S; or $90 for all four springs shipped anywhere in the U.S. Thanks for looking.

Weird. I've used those same plugs for years without any issues; but IIRC, gap them a little larger....maybe 0.043"? Plug gap too small might be the root cause of the issue.

Those Vision X pieces look nice, but too rich for my blood right now. For the time being, I've converted to Hella housings with the best H4 bulbs I could find (and obviously, fed directly off the alternator). Worlds better than the crappy old sealed beams.

Wow....looks great!

Good find, Nelsonian....that was buried pretty deep on the website. Looks like some pretty pieces of hardware, although it does seem odd that the rear disk conversion (and possibly larger front calipers?) would work well w/o any master cylinder changes. I'd be interested to know what they're charging for everything. (blu240Z, do you have that info?)

Yeah, that really doesn't provide a lot of info on what they include in their "brake upgrade". I checked out their website and couldn't find any info about any specific products. There are many threads here about brake upgrades, for both the front and rear (to include rear disk swaps). Probably a good thing to peruse those before you hand a bunch of your hard-earned dough to a shop for something you may or may not be happy with at the end of the day.

This is a good thread to get you started on your research. 87 pages of wheel and tire combos, fenders both flared and unflared. Obviously, many of the older posts no longer contain their original photos; but nearly all the data and pics within the last few years is still available.