jhm

Good headlights are not cheap. I've been looking at the Truck-lite LED units for a while. They seem to be one of the most affordable options of high-quality lighting, IMHO.

Talcum powder can be used to identify leaks and drips. Spread it lightly around the affected area, and you may get tell-tale tracks to help ID the source of the leak.

Google search will usually yield better results than the website's organic search function.....just make sure you include "HybridZ" in your Google search string.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111470-line-lock/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128459-revisiting-the-line-lock/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/107085-installing-brake-line-locks/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/4757-line-lock/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97774-line-lock-roll-control/

Nice car, nice price....GLWS.

Yes, pump will run slower/weaker with less voltage. Once the engine is running, the alternator will be charging the system at 13.5 - 14 volts; which will obviously be plenty sufficient for the fuel pump. Good luck with it.

If the wiring is original (i.e. not modified by a previous owner), the black lead for the fuel pump should be ground. Don't remember for sure what color the positive lead is.....possibly white or yellow? Poor grounds are very typically the source of electrical issues with these old cars. Check your ground wire for good ground, as NewZed suggested.

Yeah, I know the style you're talking about for trucks and jeeps. Most of those are either clip-on, stick-on (with adhesive tape), or screw-on onto the inner lip of the fender (which is not visible unless you're lying on the ground looking up). Have never seen that style ever produced for the S30; but maybe there's a market for them....you never know. Here's a good discussion of this same topic from a few years ago. One suggestion was to roll the fenders before installing the flares, which would help mitigate some of the clearance issues you face when you don't cut back the fenders. May be helpful....:

Nice-looking 240. I suppose you *could* mount standard flares right on the lower edge of the fenders with glue or double-sided tape, which might give you the look you're seeking. You would then have to either space the wheels out (with spacers/wheel adapters), in order to "fill" the flare -- otherwise it would look really silly to have flares sticking way out but wheels and tires buried deep inside. You would have to be extremely careful to measure and test fit everything to ensure that the wider stance does not result in interference between the tires and the fender sheetmetal. Suspension travel would likely be limited, otherwise you're looking at a major interference issue. All in all, a lot of work for pure aesthetics IMHO....and possibly to the detriment of functionality. It actually looks like this is how your current flares are mounted, from looking at your pictures (except they are screwed in for mounting, vs tape or glue). If those tires were wider, I'm sure there would be interference issues. Drilling holes for the mounting hardware is actually very minimally invasive. The real "damage" is done when cutting the sheetmetal to enable wheel movement and suspension travel, especially in the rear because you're cutting the unibody and having to reweld after cutting. Probably not the answers you wanted.....

Hey Wayne, thanks very much for that generous offer; but I'm going to take a pass for now.....still have a few used gauges of my own I'm trying to sell. If I see anyone looking for tach and speedo, I'll be sure to send them your way!

Now THAT'S a deal!!!

The same blower is used for heat, fresh air, defrost and AC (even on dealer-installed AC systems). You may possibly have two flaps inoperative, if you are getting neither heat in the footwells nor defrost on the windshield. I would also check the ducts feeding the defroster. They can often pop off their inlets/outlets, or just disintegrate altogether....they're made of some kind of cloth material.

If the HVAC system has been replaced and/or modified by a previous owner, there's really no way to answer your question. The stock system is very simple and straightforward. A valve controls the amount of hot water coming through the heat exchanger and mechanical cables operate the flaps to direct the air into the cabin. If you're not getting airflow from the lower vents in the footwells or the defroster vents, either the flap's not directing the air where you want it or the ducts are not transporting the air where you want it. When you switch ventilation modes (e.g. from vent to heat to defroster), can you hear the flap system moving? It usually makes a very obvious sound when it's being manipulated. The AC modifications may have rigged the system to only blow air through the central vents; but the only way to know for sure is to dig into it. They could have disabled components of the system by removing control cables, removing certain ducts, blocking off certain parts of the ducting system, etc. That would be my guess from your description of the issue. BTW, from your picture....that is the stock blower, so it does not appear that the AC modifications replaced the OEM blower with an aftermarket blower.

Yeah, it certainly does look like a seat belt warning relay; but those were only intended for models with A/T (as tamo3 was alluding to). Are there any numbers/letters stamped on it?

Your diff may have been swapped by POs....just get under there and see what you've got, to know for sure. If you can't tell by inspection, take some pics and post them. We'll be able to tell you.

Just curious, Jon...is this the first time you've had this issue? Did the course favor right turns vs left turns? Hope the new valley cover and PCV do the trick for you.

Some good ideas for chassis stiffening/bracing here: https://imgur.com/a/R27sh Most of these are from HybridZ members.

Yes, good clean connections on all your electrical connectors is essential....usually the first step one would take when troubleshooting an issue. Glad you got it sorted.

Not entirely sure what you're asking; but if you're looking for full schematics of the factory wiring, you can download free FSMs from here: http://www.xenonzcar.com/. You will likely be removing the fusible links from the system, and hopefully replacing them with technology from the 21st century. You can retain the original fuseblock, if you want, but I'd recommend inserting relays into the electrical system for running lights, headlights, starter, and any other high-load componentry you may have. Replacing the 45-year old wiring with new heavy gauge stuff will ensure full power to all your components. Ensuring that you have good grounds everywhere is essential....they get corroded and ineffective after a few decades. I don't know if this is what you were looking for, but good luck with it.

Did you happen to read the electrical chapter of the FSM, that I included in my earlier post? There's a section devoted to troubleshooting problems with all the gauges, including the temp gauge (page BE-46). The test you asked about would only work if all the wiring between the sender and the gauge is intact and functional. The most thorough way to troubleshoot an electrical circuit is to start at one end and systematically analyze each component of that circuit from end to end. The temp gauge circuit is defined on page BE-34. You may find that there are multiple issues within the circuit, but you'd never discover that if you were taking a haphazard approach. Not trying to be a dick here....really. But I'd recommend taking a more logical, systematic approach to troubleshooting problems; otherwise you're going to waste a lot of time and money. My two cents FWIW...

Unless a previous owner boogered it up, the wire should connect/disconnect via a clip-on electrical connector.....should be a bullet connector, but I guess it could be a blade connector. If it's not, do it right and crimp on the correct connector for the new sending unit. Hopefully the new parts will fix your issue.

Yes, it feeds directly into a coolant passage and will leak coolant when you remove it. As long as the engine is not running, the coolant will not be under pressure; so it's easy to plug temporarily while you're replacing the sender. You said "attach the yellow hose". I think you meant to say yellow wire?

May be able to help. Let me check my stash and get back to you.

If you only have a Chilton's manual for reference, that's part of the problem right there. Aftermarket service manuals are often questionable....sometimes they're useful, sometimes not. If you don't have the Factory Service Manual, you can download it for free at: http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html. I've attached the Body Electrical chapter here to get you started; gauges start on page 31. Body Electrical.pdf

Yes, R180. If you're wanting to know the gear ratio, the only sure way is to pull the back cover -- the ratio is stamped into the ring gear.