jhm

Couple of easy diagnostic tests you can perform to help narrow down the issue. 1) Test your ignition switch module according to the attached schematic. Not uncommon for these to fail, but can be easily replaced. 2) Does the starter motor crank when you apply 12V directly to the hot post? If not, there is a problem with the starter. (It can be easier to conduct these tests with the starter removed from the engine bay, but not necessary.) Finally, do you have the FSM for your vehicle? If not, you can download it free from here: http://www.xenonzcar.com/

Thx for the "acid test". I believe you are correct that Brakeleen is similar chemical composition as dry-cleaning fluid....I believe that is what originally turned me onto it for cleaning interior stains. I had spilled gasoline on an interior carpet, and Brakekleen was the only product that actually cleaned it and removed all gas odor....nothing else I tried removed the odor.

Yes, nice fine! I like those old alloy wheels...very popular when these cars originally came out. Have fun with it, and don't hesitate to ask questions along the way.

You are correct....they do not. The RKR is available in 15, 17, and 18"; 15 and 17 seem to be the most commonly-available. There are knock-offs of that wheel available in the sizes you're looking for FWIW.

Yeah, carb rebuild never a bad idea...might go a long way to resolving many of the issues you've been experiencing. Good luck with it. Holley produces a ton of parts and upgrade kits for their products.

Sounds like accelerator pump? The diaphragm can become damaged or otherwise non-functional, but it's an easy fix.

Not to ask a silly question, but is the vehicle ID tag on the driver's side door jam? If not, it's probably in one of your parts bags. It will tell you lots of helpful info, including production month and year.

It's hard to tell from the pictures, but it appears that perhaps the gland nut on the left strut has unthreaded itself? (Or maybe was never even installed....I can't see if there's a gland nut sitting on top of the shock body.) But it looks like the shock body is sitting halfway outside the strut tube. Obviously, the car should not be driven until this is rectified. The shock (or "strut insert") should be completely inside the strut tube, and secured with a correctly-sized gland nut. If you inspect the right side suspension, you'll see exactly what I'm talking about. WRT your brake fluid....that has nothing to do with the shocks. I would fill the reservoir, pump the brakes, and start tracking down where it's leaking. May be leaking in several areas if seals have started to shrink or crack over a long period of non-use. Hope this helps. Good luck with it.

Don't recall exactly, but I think it was around '74/'75 that the cars started receiving the R200 (slightly different for 2+2 vs coupe; automatic vs manual). It's irrelevant if you're wanting to put one in your '72....just shop for a long-nose R200 in decent condition. You'll need some other pieces to complete the swap (e.g. mustache bar, driveshaft yoke companion flange, etc). Cheapest "decent" LSD is made by OBX....manf in China. All over ebay for $400-500. There are some cheap fixes to dramatically improve its baseline performance and reliability. Search "OBX washer upgrade". Prices go up dramatically for other R200 LSDs. As mentioned previously, you should be able to find all the info you need by searching....this is a popular topic that has been addressed extensively over the years. Here are just a few:

What year S30? The early-year cars came with open R180s, and some of the last year cars came with R200s. I don't believe any of the standard differentials were LSD from the factory. Most people putting down serious power in straight-line applications use the R200...it's quite a beefy unit. There are quite a few threads here about the different options available, so search and you should find all the info you could possibly want, and make sure you check out the pinned threads too. Hope this helps.

I believe most people have had favorable experience with the Vogtland springs, as well. https://m.ebay.com/itm/VOGTLAND-GERMAN-LOWERING-SPRINGS-fits-NISSAN-DATSUN-240Z-1970-70-71-72-to-73/122344526836?fits=Model%3A240Z&epid=547979549&hash=item1c7c4d53f4:g:O34AAOSw9GhYmPeW

Assuming you're asking the question regarding an S30? If so, what year? IIRC, the early years used left- and right-hand threads; and later switched to right-hand thread on both sides. I've had steering racks with both; and racks can be switched between year vehicles; so make sure you know what you have before ordering replacement parts.

I'm running the T3 tie rod ends and their NCRAs. I like the adjustability of the tie rod ends, the improved geometry as grannyknot pointed out, and the increased clearance between the tie rod and wheels (15x9). Hard to beat the quality and design of T3 stuff.

I'm running the 245/40-15 RS4s, and am fairly pleased with them. Can't vouch for their long-term longevity as I've only had them a few months.

Difficult to say, because every 45 year old car will be slightly different, and you didn't specify what tires you'll be running; but my guess is that you will have some level of interference between the outer wheel/tire and the fenders. If it's not too bad, the fenders can be rolled to reduce interference. With the -15 offset, there probably won't be interference with the spring perch on the strut; but no guarantees. With a few simple tools, you can simulate that size wheel (and tire) and actually take some fairly accurate measurements on your own car, to give you a good idea of what the fitment will be. This is probably one of the most commonly-asked questions; there are a number of threads on this topic. You may have to cull through them to find your exact combination, but chances are it's been already been addressed at least once. Good luck with it.

Actually, Brakekleen is used very commonly to clean bad stains on the interior. I've personally used it on carpets and door panels many times without any problem. For a seat, you obviously wouldn't blast it so much that it soaks through to the foam....you use it on a rag and blot it, like you would with any cleaning product. Good luck with it.

Brakekleen works well for those kinds of spills and stains.

Sounds like a 15" or 16" wheel might be the best all-round solution; in either and 8" or 9" width. There's a decent selection of tires in those sizes (more in 16 than 15) for cheaper prices than you'll find for larger diameter wheels. If you're wanting new wheels at budget prices, check out XXR (or even Rota). Otherwise, keep an eye on the used ads for used wheels. Old Toyotas have the same lug size as S30's, so watch the 4AG forums, as well as Datsun forums..

Jon stole the words right out of my mouth....the molded-in headlight covers are really nice. Kudos for bringing an old classic back to life.

Your questions regarding wheel and tire size really need to be prefaced with your intended application. Racing? What style of racing? A setup that works well for auto-x may be terrible on a road course. Off the top of my head, most people will probably steer you to a 16" wheel; but that may or may not be the best setup for your particular needs. And like in all aspects of life, your budget will likely be the biggest constraint, so you'll need to decide how much you plan to spend. Websites like TireRack.com are a good tool for determining what size and quality of tires are available.

I guess the obvious question is do you have 12v and good ground at the bulb socket? If yes, the bulb is probably bad. If no, need to troubleshoot that circuit. If you haven't already done so, removing the heater controls center panel makes it easier to work behind the tach.

See figures AC-61 and AC-64 in the attached. AC.pdf

There's actually a wide range of sizes/widths for "ZG wide flares", depending on the specific manufacturer. Which specific flares are you considering? You will also need to specify tire brand and size that you are considering, as well. That makes a huge difference in fitment. Have you had a chance to review this thread yet?

Yes, it sounds like that one is definitely gone if it compresses and stays compressed. From what I've seen, Tokicos produced in the last couple of years have been hit or miss quality. Bilsteins are a good affordable alternative if you don't feel like springing for Konis.

Wow, great info! Sticky-worthy?