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This may not help with your immediate problem.....but once you get things working, you can physically test the accuracy of the temp sensing system with an IR gun....see if you're getting the same readings on your gauge as you get on the gun. If you determine that your sending unit is out of spec, a new one can be purchased here: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/16-7110

No offense....but yes, trying to run the engine with a wrench on the driveshaft is pretty dumb. If the nuts are frozen/rusted on, heat and penetrating oil are typically best way to free them up. It may take a couple days for the oil to soak in and free them up. Other than that, cutting or grinding them may be your only option. If you decide you need a new driveshaft, I have one from a 1973 4-speed in really nice shape for sale. Good luck with it.

Ah, now I understand. Is the motor/trans already pulled from the car, or are you trying to swap the transmission from below (i.e. leaving the engine in the car during the transmission swap)? Obviously could be tricky reaching some of the bolts if the latter. My personal preference is to always pull the engine; but if you have access to a lift and a good transmission jack, you may prefer trying it without pulling the engine. Do you have the FSM? If not, you can download free manuals for every year at: http://www.xenonzcar.com/

Why would you think there's a different process for separating tranny from a siezed motor vs a non-siezed motor?

Glad everything worked out for you; thx for the update. I have never had anything but good experiences with Bad Dog.

A link will not work, unless the user is a FB user and a member of the specific FB group. I posted your discussion thread here on his FB post, so don't be surprised if he gets in touch with you.

FYI -- there's a guy who just posted on the FB page "V8 s30 Owners Group" about a group buy for RKRs. Here's your chance to get those custom sizes you're wanting.

Yes, weight adds up very quickly. The later bumpers (and mounts) were close to 100 pounds vs the 240's sheet metal bumpers.

Joost, as I mentioned previously, it sounds like the starter solenoid is failing. The problems with the lights are separate issues, and will need to be diagnosed separately. A systematic analysis of each circuit end-to-end is the surest, most thorough approach to trouble-shooting electrical problems. The FSM is invaluable throughout this process.

No, the ignition relay and the starter solenoid are two separate units. The ignition relay is on the relay panel in the passenger footwell. It's discussed in the first chapter of the Body Electrical section of the FSM. The starter solenoid is the small cylinder adjacent to the starter motor -- it performs a similar function as a relay, in that it responds to a small signal and passes on a large current to the starter motor. If you hear a clicking noise from the engine compartment when you turn the key to "Start" but the starter does not engage, that can be a symptom of a bad solenoid.

Do you know if they're back up and running? Last time I checked (which was a while ago), they were a long way from 100%. The times I have bought parts from them, they always had outstanding customer support.

Ok, sounds like you have a good ignition switch and functioning starter.....so the next step could be to test if you are getting 12V to your starter solenoid when the key is in the "Start" position on your ignition switch. If yes, then either the solenoid is failing or there is a problem with the connection between the solenoid and the starter motor. If no, you probably have a breakdown in the wiring harness between your ignition switch and the solenoid. Good luck with it. Electrical gremlins can be very frustrating, but usually readily resolved with a logical, systematic approach.

Your headlights and running lights should power on irrespective of the ignition switch position (I.e. they should power on even with the ignition completely off). It sounds like you believe your combo switch is working properly; and if that's the case, have you tested the circuitry to ensure you have 12V going into the combo switch on the headlight circuit?

These guys have been really good in the past. I believe they went through some changes in recent years, but are in the process of rebuilding the business and their inventory. Website not currently active, so you would need to call. http://www.zspecialties.com/

Couple of easy diagnostic tests you can perform to help narrow down the issue. 1) Test your ignition switch module according to the attached schematic. Not uncommon for these to fail, but can be easily replaced. 2) Does the starter motor crank when you apply 12V directly to the hot post? If not, there is a problem with the starter. (It can be easier to conduct these tests with the starter removed from the engine bay, but not necessary.) Finally, do you have the FSM for your vehicle? If not, you can download it free from here: http://www.xenonzcar.com/

Thx for the "acid test". I believe you are correct that Brakeleen is similar chemical composition as dry-cleaning fluid....I believe that is what originally turned me onto it for cleaning interior stains. I had spilled gasoline on an interior carpet, and Brakekleen was the only product that actually cleaned it and removed all gas odor....nothing else I tried removed the odor.

Yes, nice fine! I like those old alloy wheels...very popular when these cars originally came out. Have fun with it, and don't hesitate to ask questions along the way.

You are correct....they do not. The RKR is available in 15, 17, and 18"; 15 and 17 seem to be the most commonly-available. There are knock-offs of that wheel available in the sizes you're looking for FWIW.

Yeah, carb rebuild never a bad idea...might go a long way to resolving many of the issues you've been experiencing. Good luck with it. Holley produces a ton of parts and upgrade kits for their products.

Sounds like accelerator pump? The diaphragm can become damaged or otherwise non-functional, but it's an easy fix.

Not to ask a silly question, but is the vehicle ID tag on the driver's side door jam? If not, it's probably in one of your parts bags. It will tell you lots of helpful info, including production month and year.

It's hard to tell from the pictures, but it appears that perhaps the gland nut on the left strut has unthreaded itself? (Or maybe was never even installed....I can't see if there's a gland nut sitting on top of the shock body.) But it looks like the shock body is sitting halfway outside the strut tube. Obviously, the car should not be driven until this is rectified. The shock (or "strut insert") should be completely inside the strut tube, and secured with a correctly-sized gland nut. If you inspect the right side suspension, you'll see exactly what I'm talking about. WRT your brake fluid....that has nothing to do with the shocks. I would fill the reservoir, pump the brakes, and start tracking down where it's leaking. May be leaking in several areas if seals have started to shrink or crack over a long period of non-use. Hope this helps. Good luck with it.

Don't recall exactly, but I think it was around '74/'75 that the cars started receiving the R200 (slightly different for 2+2 vs coupe; automatic vs manual). It's irrelevant if you're wanting to put one in your '72....just shop for a long-nose R200 in decent condition. You'll need some other pieces to complete the swap (e.g. mustache bar, driveshaft yoke companion flange, etc). Cheapest "decent" LSD is made by OBX....manf in China. All over ebay for $400-500. There are some cheap fixes to dramatically improve its baseline performance and reliability. Search "OBX washer upgrade". Prices go up dramatically for other R200 LSDs. As mentioned previously, you should be able to find all the info you need by searching....this is a popular topic that has been addressed extensively over the years. Here are just a few:

What year S30? The early-year cars came with open R180s, and some of the last year cars came with R200s. I don't believe any of the standard differentials were LSD from the factory. Most people putting down serious power in straight-line applications use the R200...it's quite a beefy unit. There are quite a few threads here about the different options available, so search and you should find all the info you could possibly want, and make sure you check out the pinned threads too. Hope this helps.

I believe most people have had favorable experience with the Vogtland springs, as well. https://m.ebay.com/itm/VOGTLAND-GERMAN-LOWERING-SPRINGS-fits-NISSAN-DATSUN-240Z-1970-70-71-72-to-73/122344526836?fits=Model%3A240Z&epid=547979549&hash=item1c7c4d53f4:g:O34AAOSw9GhYmPeW