jhm

Yep....happy to see an S30 on that show. Kinda' like when there was a V8 Z on "Pinks". Always good to see the Zs representin'!

Looks to be a pretty nice V8 conversion (with A/C!) I'm curious what the reserve is. Check it out at: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-280-Z-1977-datsun-280-z-updated-v-8-cold-air-conditioning-original-body-video-/391068817472?forcerrptr=true&hash=item5b0d849840&item=391068817472&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

Your title says "-40" offset, but your post says "+40" offset....assuming that "+40" offset is correct, since you're asking about spacers? I've been using 1" spacers for several years with no problems. I use these guys and have been very happy with their prices and the quality of the hardware: https://www.ezaccessory.com/

I'd be surprised if you decide that 5kg/in is too stiff.....they should work well for any street use, and even some light track use. (And Swift is good stuff, so they should last a good long time for you.) Good luck with the rest of the build.

More power to you for taking on such a project....bon chance und viel gluck!!

Just curious....what would be the goal of the full chassis swap? Modern suspension, etc? Like Sleeper said, you would be essentially chopping up a Z body and fitting the sheetmetal to the other chassis....basically Franken-Z. Good luck if you decide to attempt it....I'd be very interested to follow that project!

How about this one? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121429-auto-shifter-assembly-40/

Two thumbs up! When I first built my current V8 swap, I used the stock auto shifter as well. It worked just fine for street use. Once I started racing the car, I switched to a B&M ratchet shifter for speed and safety. Keep the updates coming!

I agree with NgoZ....you're probably better off going with a car that's at least running (and nominally, driving), since you're looking for a decent drivetrain to transplant into your rust-free shell. From the pictures, this one looks kind of like a rust-bucket that may or may not have the parts you need.

Check your PMs, Selvin. Thx for your interest.

There's no single answer to your question....Subaru differentials all vary based on year, model, and options. And their usefulness to you will vary according to your intended goals for completing the swap. Here's a couple threads from Subaru forums that contain some great info on the various differentials available over the years: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2597453 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1969700 There are also several threads on this forum by members that have performed similar swaps with their cars. Regarding stub axles....Wolf Creek is the only vendor I'm aware of for buying new 27-spline stub axles for the R180. If you decide to go with an R160, you can use factory stub axles for the Datsun 510. All swaps will require mixing and matching parts, but can be accomplished quite painlessly if properly researched prior to starting the swap. Hope this helps....good luck with it.

If zentech doesn't have what you need, I think I have an original one from an automatic 260Z (the entire shifter assembly). LMK if you're interested.

One of your posts asked where to get an FSM. Obviously, there's a bunch for sale on eBay; but here you can download free FSMs for all years S30: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Ditto on the great write-up! One advantage of leaving the stock lower spring perches intact is that if you, or a future owner, ever wants to go back to using a non-coilover setup, it's an easy swap back. Now that you have coilovers, you may want to consider taking advantage of some adding some negative camber......these are the cheapest plates I've seen. And they're actually of decent quality (I bought a set just out of curiosity). http://www.ebay.com/itm/MK1-PillowBall-Bearing-Strut-Upper-Mount-For-Coilover-Kit-Mounts-Plates-240Z-/161203739866?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A280Z&hash=item25887ddcda&vxp=mtr Hope you enjoy your new setup.

Looks like you're off to a good start! (Say goodbye to whatever free time you may have had before on the weekends. ) If you decide to play around with spring rates, Swift and Tein are two of the few reputable companies that manufacture a good selection of coilover springs in 2.75" (70 mm) inner diameter that Cosmo uses. Good luck with everything and happy motoring.

zdlite hit the nail on the head...it depends almost entirely on your engine mounting. Your original post didn't specify what kind of mounting hardware and configuration you're using, so you might want to provide that in order to get a more definitive answer. The JTR-style installations mount the engine lower and further to the rear, and the Scarab-style installations mount the engine higher and further forward....resulting in huge differences in under-hood clearance.

Fairly common issue w/ V8 swaps....and there can be multiple issues/resolutions to the problem. Here's one of many threads in HBZ on this subject: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106140-tack-not-working-right-sbc-with-hei-coil/?hl=%2Bstock+%2Btach&do=findComment&comment=993151

Are you looking at universal hold-down kits like these? Or do you want something different? http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/battery-hold-downs?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&tw=battery%20ho&sw=Battery%20Hold-Downs

"Make sure the top of the Koni shock is held securely in place. The shock relies on the gland nut to properly position the upper seal. Not a great design because if the gland nut comes loose the seal fails." Good to know...thx for pointing that out, John!

Yeah...some of this specialized hardware (e.g. Koni & Bilstein gland nuts) can get pretty pricey! Nice to avoid when you can.

If the shocks fit securely with the Monroe spacer and gland nut, I can't imagine why you couldn't use them vs the Koni gland nut. Just make sure that the shock body can't move around within the strut tube once the gland nut is tightened, and that the chrome shaft doesn't rub anywhere on the spacer and/or gland nut. Probably a lot cheaper to reuse these parts vs ordering new nuts from Koni. If there's any significant gap between the shock body and the inner wall of the strut tube, you can eliminate the gap with some beefy electrical tape to ensure the shock sits snugly inside the strut tube. I guess you could try to return the Koni nuts for a refund, or find out what vehicle they fit and sell as new/used parts. Good luck with the rest of the install...I'm sure you'll love the Konis!

How about these? http://www.ezaccessory.com/4_Lug_to_5_Lug_Adapter_44505450t_p/4450-5450t.htm The 1.75" thickness may be thicker than you want.... Have dealt with this vendor many times, and am always pleased with price, quality and customer service. P.S. Like the wheels very much -- good luck with it.

How about one of these? There are many other sources out there, but here's a couple I've done business with in the past and never had a complaint. A used unit should work fine also, if you don't feel like buying a new part....sensors can be easily tested in a pot of hot water using a separate thermometer to check your sensor readings. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Wat-Temp-Send.html http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-1878 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/16-7110ki http://www.zcarsource.com/ http://www.datsunstore.com/sensor-water-temp-7579-p-1400.html

...and the "Wheel Show" thread, as well. A lot of guys include suspension particulars in their posts, to make it as informative as possible.

No worries. If they came off a 240, they most likely are the stock 4x114.3 lug pattern (unless they were mounted using lug adapters). 4x100 is popular with the Honda crowd (and I think Mini Coopers, also). GLWS