jhm

Definitely a nice-looking car (heckuva hood scoop!) It's got some nice bits & pieces, too. A 200-4r or 700-r4 would give you highway mileage in the low 20's. Good luck with it!

Admins- Lately, I've been rx'ing the below error every time I attempt to publish an ad. The ad actually gets published, but the system attempts to tell me that there was an error when posting. It results in multiple postings, because I (and several other folks, I've noticed) attempt to repost several times before figuring out that the ads are actually being published!! Is there any way to fix this, or is it a systemic issue? My apologies in advance if this has already been brought to your attention. r/John Meyer ---------------------------------------- Internal Server Error The server encountered an internal error or misconfiguration and was unable to complete your request. Please contact the server administrator, dan@hybridz.org and inform them of the time the error occurred, and anything you might have done that may have caused the error. More information about this error may be available in the server error log. Apache/2.2.3 (CentOS) Server at forums.hybridz.org Port 80 ----------------------------------------

Don't know if this will help, but here's the wiring schematic for the ignition switch. Can't imagine why it's passing juice in the "Lock" position, other than a short in the harness somewhere. Couldn't tell from your video if the switch is mounted on the steering column or just hanging loose....does it do the same thing no matter where the switch barrel is?

When I bought my car, it had a stock shifter w/ TH350. Whoever had installed it used a custom linkage (hard linkage, not cable). It worked ok, but I didn't like the stock shifter so I installed a B&M. Personal preference.

Bumpers plus hydraulic bumper mounts are easily 150 lbs (possibly more), depending on what year the vehicle is. My late '74 260 weighs in at 2820 lbs....SBC motor, bumpers removed, Autosports roll bar (VERY beefy), and relatively heavy street wheels/tires. Wheels and tires are an easy and effective way to drop vehicle weight.

Trevor- If it's rust-free (or at least mostly rust-free), it looks like a helluva deal. Best way to verify engine mounting is to inspect the motor mount adapters -- JTR mounts are fairly distinctive (http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT200.html). Might be useful to ask the owner to see the time slips. 12.60 seems pretty fast for a stock SBC. Good luck...hope it works out for you! r/John

http://arizonazcar.com/cars.html One of the last cars on the page has a cowl-induction cold air intake system. Also, check out Spectre's line of intake plenums. I'm running one of their low-profile hats, and I only paid $70 for it (new) with a little searching on the web.

Non vehicle-specific....just a generic floor mat that happens to fit the Z. According to the name stamped on the mat, the brand appears to be "Type S".

Oh, that's a Honey-Skyline. He don't give a sh*t....he do what the f*ck he want.

I'm using a version of Diamond's 13" spun steel wheels for auto-x. It's a very light setup, but you do have to be very careful when mounting tires due to their fragility. I also just picked up some 15x8 steelies (25 lbs each) that will probably last until even after the cockroaches are dead!

Alan Grove components. Simple, strong and cheap...great customer service too. (Their hi-mount LT-1 brackets may not work in an S30, though.) Be sure to post your results, and good luck!

Not sure what vehicle you're working on; but if it's an S30, typically the pins are at 3 and 9 o'clock. If you inspect the guts of your steering wheel column, you should see the cancelling arms for your blinkers at roughly 8 and 10 o'clock...this will help you visualize where you want the pins on your wheel. Good luck.

Excellent source for S30 wiring schematics: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Guys- I don't think he's still making these. I've tried calling, e-mailing, and PM'ing....no response. May not even be on this website anymore. Good luck....I'd still be interested if anyone has any luck getting a hold of him. r/John

Something's clearly not working right.... Silly question....are you sure the brakes are fully bled? With good new clean brake fluid? Also, is the clevis pin connection between your booster and brake pedal correctly adjusted? If not, that may be partially contributing to your problems. Finally, no vacuum leaks between your intake and booster? A leak would cause high or erratic idle, and if bad enough, you can actually hear the hissing sound when the engine's running (or right after you shut it down). Good luck and happy motoring. r/John

Bump....still looking.

Do you have the shims in there? They often get removed, lost, or discarded by previous owners. MSA sells a kit for $19: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SBC04/24-5301

Found mine at Pep Boys for $16...hard to beat.

Looking for 4 wheels, to be used as extra set of race wheels on my 260. 15" diameter; 7"-8" in width; 2"-4" of backspacing; 4x114.3 lug pattern. Ok w/ either steel or alloy, as long as they're in decent shape. Am going for cheap here...$150-$200 for the set (so pls don't reply w/ your $1200 BBS modulars!! ) I'm only interested in rims; UNLESS they happen to come w/ decent DOT race tires (245-255). If estimating shipping, pls use Hampton, VA as destination. If you're interested in trading, I have a couple sets of 13" race wheels (w/ Hoosiers). Thx for looking, and happy motoring. r/John

Hey Clive- Water intake could definitely be an issue, but my car rarely (if ever) sees the wet so I'm not too worried about it. I built a radiator air box similar to what you're talking about. Pretty simple arrangement of bottom, top, and two side pieces; but it seems to work pretty well. If I ever get motivated, I'll pull the pieces and make templates to be posted here for others' reference in building their own systems. r/John

It's my SBC setup, but it may help anyway. Using 4" piping, had to enlarge the hole in the driver side of the radiator support. Fabbed small clamp and L-bracket mount to secure the 90 deg elbow to the rad support. Good luck w/ your install.

Porterfield R4-S...just bought a pair of fronts for $59 from LPI Racing (quick shipping too). Great feel, good stopping power, and no squealing. Used to run R4's all the time. Worked great on the track, but I got sick of the long, painful screeeeeecch at every stop when driving on the streets.

Gents- My 260 (late '74 model) seems to be a little on the porky side, too (2810 lbs w/o me)....but it doesn't surprise me, considering the way she's currently fitted out (weekday DD, weekend play-racer): - iron-head SBC w/ TH350, mini-starter, aluminum water pump, aluminum intake, block hugger headers - Autopower roll bar - full interior, w/ Honda Prelude seats (fairly lightweight) - street wheels & tires - steel flares - half-tank gas - bumpers removed (saved 90 lbs!) I drop 70 lbs immediately when putting on the race wheels. r/John

Hey 75zcar- PM'ed you about the 15" Americans....let me know if you've still got them; and if so, asking price? Thx. r/John

I think you've got a couple extra metal washers in there....no need for washers between the poly bushings and the control arm or between the bushings and the sway bar. If you feel that you need to make the "sandwich" tighter, add washers to the top of the stack...directly beneath the threaded nut. Yes, you can replace the stock sway bar end links w/ standard style bolt....that's what most aftermarket suppliers do (e.g. Energy Suspension). Also gives you the option of lengthening or shortening your end links. The stock end links can become difficult if one of the nuts is rusted on or stripped. Hope this helps.