jhm

Have you seen these? "http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/94543-tokico-2-front-illumina-struts-datsun-260z-280z-75-78/"

I've heard similar noise on motor with the oil pan smashed in....the rods were physically knocking against the pan with each revolution of the engine. Sounds nasty...hope you figure it out....good luck!

Try going to the Sanderson website directly. They have a HUGE selection of headers for all makes/models. I did a quick search on Dart heads, and it appears that they have a couple headers that will fit your motor. "http://www.sandersonheaders.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1". Hope this helps. r/John

Hey all- Like the title says, I'm looking to upgrade from my current stock 18mm sway bars. I've got a late '74 260Z, which uses the same shape rear bar as the 280. Looking for 3/4" to 1" in thickness. I'm a cheap bastard...the cheaper, the better...prefer to avoid paying retail for new bars. Will buy individually or as a set. Thx! r/John

Not the ideal solution, but you could use some flat bar or reinforcement plates under the floor pan to reinforce the mounting....drill them to match the mounting studs on your seat rails. To stop the stud from spinning when tightening the nuts, put a small tack weld between the stud and the rail, or put a nut on it and tighten it down to the rail (can only do this if the stud is threaded all the way). Hope this helps. Nice looking seats...hope you're able to make them work.

Very popular set-up -- I don't think you'll be disappointed. There's a couple of stickies in the "Suspension" sub-forum on the Tokico springs and struts. How much it actually lowers your vehicle is entirely dependent on what year vehicle you have, and what kind of springs are on it currently (even if they're the stock springs, who knows how much they've sagged over the last 35 years?) John Coffey's company website has a lot of good info on improving the Z's stock suspension: "http://www.betamotorsports.com/index.php".

Wow....freaking unbelievable. Really coming out nice. Great work.

Ditto what bj said. I've got plenty of clearance even w/ cold air setup, and my engine's mounted in the Scarab position. The JTR mounting gives you tons more clearance.

It sounds like you've tried to adjust the hood using the extremes of the slots on the hood hinges, and that didn't do anything to improve the hood's alignment. If that's the case, then the hinges themselves may be out of whack (engineering term!). You can either try to bend them or replace them. They may respond if you grab the hood and try to muscle it into alignment....sounds crude but it works sometimes. Obviously need to be careful you don't damage your new hood whilst fixing the hinges. If that doesn't work, a used set of hinges from a part-out car shouldn't cost more than a few bucks. I'm really surprised that playing with the adjustment slots didn't yield any results....they usually allow for a lot of movement in both directions. Good luck with it!

This may help... "http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/66786-280z-240z-dimensions-front-sway-bar/page__p__627353__hl__%2Bsway+%2Bbar+%2Bdimensions__fromsearch__1#entry627353"

Fabbed this shroud for use with my JTR aluminum radiator and Spal 16" puller fan. When the vehicle is stopped and the fan is running, the rubber flap seals holes in the shroud and forces more air draw through the radiator. At speed, the flap opens up to allow increased airflow through the rad. Hope this helps.

Most likely a broken speedo cable (not the cable housing, but the thin piano wire-like cable that runs internal to the thick black cable housing). You can usually find generic speedo cable repair kits at most auto stores for a few bucks.

Pretty slick...probably a whole lot brighter as well. Great idea!

Ken- That is one AWESOME looking vehicle....thx for sharing!! r/John

This may help solve some of your problems. Have used these folks before and they are GREAT to work with. Good luck. "http://www.datsunstore.com/index.php/cPath/118?osCsid=73d8a78ee0c13ed57bbec3c8b2e8c955"

Nick- Nice looking seats -- they remind me of the late '80's Prelude seats, which are some of my all-time favorite OEM seats. Good luck with the rest of the install and be sure to post more pix of the final result! John

Ryan- Slightly off topic, but I have been following your build thread for a while now and I have to say that I am completely blown away by the amount of effort, time, expense and attention to detail that you're putting into that car. The final result will be simply AMAZING! Can't wait to see it when it's finished (is a resto-mod ever TRULY finished??). Good luck with the rest of the build and keep the updates coming! jhm

This is probably one of those questions where there really is no right or wrong answer. I guess an automatic would be more "drivable" if the driver were not comfortable with a manual transmission. Alot of high-performance Z owners prefer the feel of shifting for themselves, and controlling the engine's revs and powerband. Guys that are going more for straight-line performance will usually choose an auto for the faster shifts. I think generally you'll find an automatic setup may be a little lighter and more compact than a 5- or 6-speed setup. Finally, an automatic MAY be a little more gentle on your drivetrain (driveshaft, u-joints, rear differential, half-shafts, etc) than a manual, but that's purely personal opinion in my part. Do some searching in the "Drivetrain" forum, and you'll probably find more info than you could possibly hope for! Good luck and happy motoring.

I also used Spectre products for my cold air intake: low profile intake plenum, 4" ducting, and the largest cone filter they make. I could've also used their $20 aluminum elbow, but used a $4 PVC elbow from Lowes instead because I'm such a tight-wad. Good luck with yours!

The new ride is looking so fine, Dave....nice work! Those seats are SWEEEEEEEET. Looks like you're not wasting any time digging into her. Good luck with the rest of the build! John

Beautiful build...simply awesome!! I have to ask what is that spiffy bracket you're using for the alternator? And it looks like you're installing A/C as well? Nice! Good luck with the rest of it and happy motoring!

Check out Z Car Source. They usually offer good used parts at a big discount vs cost of new. http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/pid/58284/catid/7797_7811/Ignition_Switch_w_key_70_78_used There's also always guys parting out their cars in the 'Parts for Sale' section of HBZ. Good luck with it!

If you're able to hook the gauge to the sending unit, drop the sending unit in a pot of boiling water....the gauge should read 212 deg F. Obviously, this technique requires that the gauge and sending unit are properly powered and grounded (i.e., you'll probably have to rig temporary hot and grounding wires from the car to the gauge and sending unit in order to conduct this test). You can do a variation of this test with a pot of water of various temperatures and a thermometer. This allows you to compare the thermometer's readings against those of your new gauge. Be careful not to let the sending unit touch the pot itself....might result in a higher reading than the boiling water. Also, I'd be careful to keep the wires out of the boiling water...could lead to a short, and the insulation could somehow get damaged. Hope this helps.

The new wheel looks good. The recommended torque for the steering shaft nut is 36-51 ft-lb. For future reference, one can usually remove the steering hub adapter just by leaving the steering wheel bolted to the adapter, removing the central steering shaft nut, and wiggling the steering wheel back and forth until it comes off the steering shaft. It's always worked for me....have never needed a puller using this method.

Here's mine. Mid-90's (92-96) Prelude seats in my late '74 260 (has the same catalytic converter hump in the trans tunnel as the 280). The earlier Prelude seats (late 1980's-1991) will work as well, and have a nicer look (IMHO) than mine; but can be hard to find in decent condition. Very easy install. I cut off the Honda rails, fabricated cross bars from steel flat bar, and bolted onto the stock Z rails. Seat are light, comfortable and supportive.