jhm

Yep. A leak in the booster system (booster, hose, one-way valve) equals a leak in your intake vacuum, which will increase your idle revs. It's a double whammy, because your engine is revving up at the same time that you're trying to brake (which is harder to do because you're losing the brake power benefit of the booster). Before buying any new parts, inspect the entire system, beginning with the booster vacuum line connection to your intake. One easy trick to help zero in on the problem is to reverse the one-way check valve in the vacuum line between your intake and the booster. If it solves the high idle problem, then the problem should be between the valve and the booster; if it doesn't solve the problem, then your leak is probably between the intake and the valve. I had a similar problem with my booster a couple years ago, and it turned out to be a small crack in the hose connection on the booster (below the master cylinder). Was able to easily fix it with gasket sealer. If it does indeed turn out to be a bad booster, I think Centrix is the cheapest remanufactured replacement unit. Here's one for roughly $80: http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/6634-05121002.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_term=1975-1978+Nissan+280Z+Brake+Booster+Centric+75-78+Nissan+Brake+Booster+77+76&utm_content=DN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base Good luck.

Appears to be a 70's-era TVR. Very cool British sports cars that packed a punch when properly equipped. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/tvr-sports-cars.htm/printable You could probably pick that one up for a song, and you'd never have to worry about what to do with your weekends for the next three years!

Sure...why not. I would think a 3-position toggle would work -- you'd need the style that gives you two "ON" positions and one "OFF" position in the center. Something like this should work fine: http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT2?PMAKA=79483988&PMPXNO=24096938&cm_re=ItemDetail-_-ResultListing-_-SearchResults Should be able to use your existing wiring on the steering column (and existing relays) provided it's all in good shape. I doubt this setup would pass a state safety inspection, but that may not be an issue for your particular situation. Unless you use the hazards often, I wouldn't even bother messing with them (which would definitely fail state inspection). I can't remember the last time I used my hazard signal. Good luck and happy motoring! r/John

Hard to tell for sure from those pics what starter that is. Best bet would be to remove it to see if there are any markings on it (GM products should have part number stamped on it). You will also need to remove it in order to do a tooth-count on your flexplate....that's not as crazy as it sounds. Get the car up on jackstands, remove the plugs, stick a long-handle ratchet on your main pulley bolt and crank away. I used a piece of chalk to mark the teeth, and pen & paper to keep running tally of teeth counted. This is also a good way to verify that the teeth on your flexplate are all in good condition. WRT starters, I've been using db Electrical for the last couple of years. They make a good product at a good price, and their customer service is unbeatable. I'm currently using a previous version of this little beauty; weighs only 7.5 lbs and features full support for the pinion gear at the nose: http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-1319-new-chevy-305-350-454-mini-racing-pmgr-starter-ht-pm300-sdr0031.aspx Good luck. r/John

ZG- You might also get more response if you post this in the "Interior" sub-forum. Or the "Parts Wanted" forum, if you're looking to buy something. If you're attempting to fit a dash cap, leave it out in the sun for a while before working on it....softens up the plastic a bit....makes it more flexible and (slightly) easier to work with. Good luck with it. r/John

Looks (and sounds) fabulous, Mark...great work! Looking forward to seeing it in person -- will you be back in VB anytime soon? Shoot me a PM or e-mail next time you're in town, and congrats on getting the ZREDBARON running again! r/John

Definitely check the distributor. Best technique I've found to dry it out is pop off the cover and blow out the insides w/ compressed air.

Congrats! Have you thought about putting some of that "4.6 Stang Rage" in the Z?? Makes for a potent combination! Good luck with the rest of the revival.

This may help some... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90413-240-hatch-strut-18-at-advance-auto/page__p__857250__fromsearch__1#entry857250

Yeah...there's several people that would like a pair of those stainless straps. Unfortunately, Jerry (the vendor) hasn't been active on that thread since 2009. If anyone has personal knowledge on whether he's still making the straps, I'd like to know. Looks like he could sell several sets immediately! Thx. r/John

It's a late '74 260Z. I e-mailed you...looking forward to hearing back....maybe we can do some business. Thx!

Bump...still need brake booster.

Come on, Mark....keep up, man!!

Yeah, Jerry...please count me in too if you're still making these. I've got a late '74 260, so I'm assuming I'd need the "early 280" style straps. r/John

Looking for a good, working brake booster for 1974.5 260Z or 280Z. I realize boosters from other years can be made to work, but I'd rather not go that route unless I have to. I have PayPal and shipping would be to zip 23602. Thx for looking! r/John

Phenolic spacers from Summit! "http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Carburetor-Spacers/?keyword=phenolic+spacer"

I second RSICARD's comments on the KMJ block huggers. I bought their ceramic coated headers a year ago for $164 shipped, and they've been great. Good fit, good quality ceramic coating, and strong thick flanges. No problems with leakages, warping, etc. Check 'em out. KMJ block huggers There's also several products out there to insulate your fuel lines...they work really well to keep the heat out.

This should help: "Replacing fusible links". There's numerous solutions to the crappy fusible link issue. I've been using the circuit breakers for a couple years now, and they've been working great. Sometimes the short is in the fusible links themselves. They get old, corroded, loose, etc....and can easily burn out. Good luck with the fix.

Ditto the recommendations on used tires. I've bought from this guy a couple times, and I've been extremely impressed with his customer service and the value he provides for your money. Check it out at: eBay used race tires

Tim- They look great! Have to agree with you on the comfort and adjustability...those seats have to be some of the best stock seats ever produced (IMHO). Glad the install went smoothly for you. Still haven't installed the passenger seat on mine because I need that space for my Hoosiers. (I'll probably get around to it sometime next winter.) I, too, alternate between a round and D-shaped wheel. They D gives me more legroom, but makes for heavier steering at slow speeds. Thx for sharing your results! r/John

May want to move this to the "Parts Wanted" section: "http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/73-parts-wanted/" Good luck with your search.