jhm

Nice find!! Rust free is HUGE...jump on it. Things like the R200 LSD and air dam are nice bonuses too. Interior is easy to fix. Should be a nice ride and a fun project for you. GL.

If I recall correctly, there's a 5- or 6-pin plug in the center top of the firewall in the engine compartment. The prongs can get corroded or the plug itself can even come loose. Try checking that connection and cleaning the prongs. And yes, the wiper relay is mounted on the right side of the passenger foot well (along with several other relays). For a free FSM, check out this website: "http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html". That's right....FREE! Can't beat it with a stick!!

Very unique ride...nice work. That hood is wild-looking! I'm sure you get a lot of attention wherever you go. Thx for sharing, and be sure to keep the updates coming...sounds like you have even bigger plans in the future! r/John

I use a 1/2" phenolic spacer on my SBC equipped with Holley 4150. I don't use it for HP gain, but rather as a thermal buffer between the motor and the carb....particularly after shutdown, when engine heat used to cause the carb to boil-over and stink up the garage with gas fumes. Seems to work pretty well for that...can't say I've noticed any HP gains...seems like that would be a bit of a stretch on most setups. r/John

That is one WILD-looking wide-body -- thx for sharing!! Pls keep those updates coming! r/John

Should be a mean set-up! Keep those updates coming, and good luck with the build! r/John

Hey all- I'm looking for an R180 in good shape. I've got a late '74 260Z with the single-bolt half-shaft attachments. Prefer LSD, but will consider all offers. If you've got a unit that meets my needs, I'm ready to hit the "Send Money" button! Thx for looking. r/John

Yep....my rear end started making nasty noises at the local auto-x last Sunday. Pulled the differential and found it to be a few pieces short! I'm glad it lasted the year before puking. Was using much stickier tires that day than I had been at previous events....I'm guessing that contributed to the differential's demise. I'm looking for a used R180 if anyone has one. I need the single-bolt half-shaft attachment style (late '74 260Z). Thx! r/John

Saw this on CL...may help. http://miami.craigslist.org/brw/pts/2058687964.html

Looking good!!

I got the KMJ ceramic block huggers a year ago, and have been really happy with them. Decent quality ceramic coating, thick flanges, and good fit on the motor. Would buy again in a heartbeat. KMJ also offered the best price I could find (at the time). Good luck.

My bad, Elliot....obviously not paying close enough attention. Good luck with your search. If you decide to spring for new parts, John Coffey has great prices (on both struts and springs) and superior customer service. Check out his website at BetaMotorSports.

Have you seen these? "http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/94543-tokico-2-front-illumina-struts-datsun-260z-280z-75-78/"

I've heard similar noise on motor with the oil pan smashed in....the rods were physically knocking against the pan with each revolution of the engine. Sounds nasty...hope you figure it out....good luck!

Try going to the Sanderson website directly. They have a HUGE selection of headers for all makes/models. I did a quick search on Dart heads, and it appears that they have a couple headers that will fit your motor. "http://www.sandersonheaders.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1". Hope this helps. r/John

Hey all- Like the title says, I'm looking to upgrade from my current stock 18mm sway bars. I've got a late '74 260Z, which uses the same shape rear bar as the 280. Looking for 3/4" to 1" in thickness. I'm a cheap bastard...the cheaper, the better...prefer to avoid paying retail for new bars. Will buy individually or as a set. Thx! r/John

Not the ideal solution, but you could use some flat bar or reinforcement plates under the floor pan to reinforce the mounting....drill them to match the mounting studs on your seat rails. To stop the stud from spinning when tightening the nuts, put a small tack weld between the stud and the rail, or put a nut on it and tighten it down to the rail (can only do this if the stud is threaded all the way). Hope this helps. Nice looking seats...hope you're able to make them work.

Very popular set-up -- I don't think you'll be disappointed. There's a couple of stickies in the "Suspension" sub-forum on the Tokico springs and struts. How much it actually lowers your vehicle is entirely dependent on what year vehicle you have, and what kind of springs are on it currently (even if they're the stock springs, who knows how much they've sagged over the last 35 years?) John Coffey's company website has a lot of good info on improving the Z's stock suspension: "http://www.betamotorsports.com/index.php".

Wow....freaking unbelievable. Really coming out nice. Great work.

Ditto what bj said. I've got plenty of clearance even w/ cold air setup, and my engine's mounted in the Scarab position. The JTR mounting gives you tons more clearance.

It sounds like you've tried to adjust the hood using the extremes of the slots on the hood hinges, and that didn't do anything to improve the hood's alignment. If that's the case, then the hinges themselves may be out of whack (engineering term!). You can either try to bend them or replace them. They may respond if you grab the hood and try to muscle it into alignment....sounds crude but it works sometimes. Obviously need to be careful you don't damage your new hood whilst fixing the hinges. If that doesn't work, a used set of hinges from a part-out car shouldn't cost more than a few bucks. I'm really surprised that playing with the adjustment slots didn't yield any results....they usually allow for a lot of movement in both directions. Good luck with it!

This may help... "http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/66786-280z-240z-dimensions-front-sway-bar/page__p__627353__hl__%2Bsway+%2Bbar+%2Bdimensions__fromsearch__1#entry627353"

Fabbed this shroud for use with my JTR aluminum radiator and Spal 16" puller fan. When the vehicle is stopped and the fan is running, the rubber flap seals holes in the shroud and forces more air draw through the radiator. At speed, the flap opens up to allow increased airflow through the rad. Hope this helps.

Most likely a broken speedo cable (not the cable housing, but the thin piano wire-like cable that runs internal to the thick black cable housing). You can usually find generic speedo cable repair kits at most auto stores for a few bucks.

Pretty slick...probably a whole lot brighter as well. Great idea!