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Need the outer tie rod end (driver's side) for a late '74 260Z (i.e. the part shown in the link below). I believe that this part is the same for all years 70-78. S30 outer tie rod end "http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SSSC01D/23-4411" Shipping would be to zip 23602. Thx for looking. r/John

If this is what you're talking about, they're part of your AC control system. Hope this helps. AC relays0001.pdf

Hey Mark- Nice lookin' header....stainless? Bet you're looking forward to getting that on the motor. Good luck getting it all back together, and please give me a shout if you need a second set of hands. r/John

Sorry...don't have an answer for you; but you may want to have the Admins move this to the "Engine Components/Exhaust" forum (or just re-post it there yourself). r/John

Pop your existing differential out and bring it with you...best way to compare what you've got against the new diffy. Like z2go said, most likely the pinion flange and half-shafts will need to be modified or replaced. See the attached pic on pinion flanges -- very likely that your car currently has the DAT-110 flange, and the differential you're considering has the DAT-110-2.0. It's an easy thing to swap flanges. This is a great stickie in the Drivetrain sub-forum: "http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/". Good luck...hope you find what you need! r/John

If you decide to check out used slicks, I highly recommend this fellow: "http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=usdrrt&_sacat=0&_dmpt=Race_Car_Parts&_odkw=usdrrt+13&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313". High marks for availability, prices, and quick shipping.

Pretty cool....looking forward to seeing your build. (I'm right down the road, so I'm actually looking forward to seeing it in person!) Good luck with it and be sure to post your progress. r/John

If the ammeter wire is smoking, you can start by disconnecting it immediately (if not sooner). You should be able to do this by unplugging the small plug (with the small-gauge wires) on the shunt (mounted on the passenger-side of your engine compartment. Yes, it will disable the ammeter, but it may prevent a fire in your dash while you're trouble-shooting the problem. You could have a short in the gauge itself. Consider replacing it with another ammeter, or swap it out for a voltmeter. Good luck.

The only difference between red and black that I'm aware of is that some manufacturers impregnate the black bushings with a graphite product as a lubricant. Also need to consider that not all end-link bushings are the same thickness. There's LOTS on info available on this topic in the "Brakes/Wheels/Suspension/Chassis" sub-forum.

Any of the polyurethane bushing kits should give you the result you're looking for.....you can buy the bushings individually or as complete kits. Check eBay, Prothane, Energy Suspension, etc to see what's available. Replacing your old rubber bushings with poly is a good cheap way to improve your car's handling. If you want to make it easy on yourself, look here: "http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PSDC06A". Hope this helps.

Hey Greg- Am in the process of swapping out my mid-90's Prelude seats for late-80's Prelude seats....been wanting to do this for a while, and finally found a pair in great shape locally. Will post results soon (with pics, of course!) Happy motoring. r/John

Interesting....what diameter are they?

Nice looking wheels! I've always been a fan of that style. Be sure to post of pics once they're mounted...inquiring minds want to know!

Here's one for $50...even better!! "http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/showproduct.php/product/5920/title/datsun-70-78-240z280z-saddle-console-cover/cat/4" I can vouch from personal experience that Daniel (dhp) is a great guy to deal with. He'll treat you right.

I'm using Sumitomos now ("http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Sumitomo&tireModel=HTR+200") and I like them. Seems to be a pretty decent street tire at a good price. I'm using them strictly for auto-x and occasional track events. What's your intended usage (i.e. track, street, combination, etc) and budget? Those factors will obviously influence the recommendations you get here.

Greg- No personal experience w/ that product...but if you decide to buy one, you might be able to get a little better price from ZBarn. They also have some pix of the armrest installed on their website: "http://www.zbarn.com/New%20Parts%20F./Saddle%20Console/saddle%20Z%201.htm". r/John

Update on an older topic.... I replaced the hatch struts in my car with similar product. Strong Arm lift support (P.N. 4777) on eBay...."http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230563336866&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AL%3AOU%3AUS%3A1123". Turned out to be a good product at a good price from a great vendor. Had them on my doorstep TWO DAYS after ordering! Really made a difference, compared to my old worn-out struts. They worked OK until I installed a BRE spoiler; after which they were completely incapable of holding the hatch up. The new struts do a great job popping the hatch up when opening, and pulling it shut when closing. All mounting hardware was included, and it was of decent quality. Highly recommend to anyone else with weak hatch struts!

My (lame) attempt to emulate Ferrari-red.

I may be misunderstanding you; but if you're talking about replacing the diff cover gasket, it takes about as long as it takes to remove and reinstall the diff. I'm not familiar with any technique that allows you to swap gaskets w/o first removing the differential. Once the diff is out of the car, the cover unbolts and comes off (w/ a couple taps from a rubber or plastic mallet) pretty easily. You might be tempted to try to remove the mustache bar with the differential still in place, but that will probably become more trouble than it's worth (if it's even possible). Probably not the answer you were hoping for. On the bright side, now you can do all that other rear end maintenance (that you may have been putting off for a while) at the same time!

Can't believe your wife didn't appreciate the throaty rev of an LS1 as much as you do!! Mine doesn't either. Nice progress...keep the updates comin'!

Sorry...no experience with that wheel or vendor. HOWEVER, 12.5" seems pretty small. Will likely block your gauges and increase your steering effort. Are you sure you want to go that small? You've probably already done a thorough product search; but if not, check out Grant and APC wheels. HUGE selection of nice wheels at great prices. Sorry if I'm telling you something you already know. Good luck, and be sure to post your results so everyone can benefit from your experience. r/John

Yep...you should be able to use the S30 half-shafts (if they're the 4-bolt style to mate up with your 280Z companion flanges). You may have some possible length issues, depending on if/how much you've lowered your suspension. Due to the extra width of the R200 (especially on driver-side), there's a risk of the half-shaft bottoming-out during suspension compression. May not be an issue, depending on your particular set-up and intended use. I found a ton of good info in the stickie at "http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/". Good luck! I'm in similar situation as you (maybe 6 months behind)....currently in the process of gathering the necessary parts to do the swap. I'll be watching your swap with much interest!!

Good info, good advice...thx!