HuD 91gt

I ran 3/8” lines through the tunnel using the stock mounting (Rubber froze then drilled). The return line crossed over just before the engine bay. The feed runs on the cold side. If your redoing then, running straight lines alongside the frame rails seems like the best route.

Just for reference for future interested parties. I ordered these parts for my 08/71 240z. They do not fit. First off which is well known, the 08/71 booster bolt pattern is different (anything <08/71 I believe). But more important, this 8.75” booster won’t fit with the clutch master, and also hits the throttle cable linkage bracket. Rough measurements show an 8” master “might” fit, but I’d expect a little clearancing required. Edit: after seeing the above post and the 8.5” booster in the photo. I decided to drill the holes and make sure. Not going to happen. I’m in the midst of cutting off the throttle linkage bracket, and will offset the booster as much as I can to avoid the clutch master. If you look in the above photo. There is no way they can remove their clutch master without removing the brake booster. I will most likely make some sort of offset on the brake pedal itself as well.

I purchased a Tacoma 8-3/4” booster and master cylinder the other day. It just arrived. It’s not even close to fitting on my early 240z. If I were to drill out the bolt pattern (Early is different prior to 8/71) it still hits both the clutch master and the throttle linkage bracket. Take some good measurements before you go that way I’d say. There isnt many options, I’m about to order up a universal 8” unit and master cylinder (corvette style) from Speedway motors. They are reasonably priced, and there will always be GM/Corvette parts available. They also offer a 7”, as 8” is going to be very very very close and may need some clearancing in both the throttle linkage bracket and the clutch master.

I’ll take the good inspection door off of you! Will PM

Sorry for making you state it twice. I think I have my head wrapped around it. It would have been easier if I had ever seen a push to connect fitting before.... but then I searched the pricing on stainless fittings.... photos may be as close as I ever get 😲

I am talking about the “rail” itself. Is it hardline, or just grey coloured tubing? The line between the T fittings.

Beautiful job overall, but that coolant rail is the best I’ve seen! Are the pushlok fittings. Connected with flared hardline?

From the time I started reading you wanted to do some racing with this car, it always seemed like a risky choice. I applaud your choice and glad to see some clarity in your thought.

The air in the engine bay needs to go somewhere to have any aerodynamic device effective. A spoiler on the steering rack may work if you had no hood. Reduce the lift of the front end by reducing the airflow tunneling in the engine bay and under the car.

https://m.alibaba.com/product/60746611226/Small-Mobile-Portable-Car-Spray-Tent.html?s=p&__detailProductImg=//s.alicdn.com/@sc01/kf/H26eaad83c4dd41efa0cd3fc41292852dc/Small-Mobile-Portable-Car-Spray-Tent-Inflatable.jpg_140x140xz.jpg They are cheaper on Alibaba. Search YouTube for reviews.

Turbo distributors are still available available online. I ordered a turbo distributor shaft from the dealer last summer as well.

The easiest way would be to swap with a tubular support of some kind. Fabricating proper mounting supports on each side, with a bolt in tubular cross piece. I’m surprised your putting in a new motor. The car looked almost complete!

I’m curious if it is noisy at all? Especially with the poly mounts? Did you use the Neon coilovers?

I started with aluminum, and I had so many issues that I couldn’t figure out. Gas coverage was my biggest problem. I don’t know if it’s my lenses or what but I have to have minimal stick out. Also make sure all the seals are intact on your torch. If you have good gas coverage, clean metal aluminum goes so smooth.

I’m with you Lazeum, beautiful table btw. Purchased an Everlast 250ex. Go big or go home. I’ve been having a blast. My welding itself is mediocre at best, but the whole process has tried to teach me patience and let my creativity go wild. Not to mention learn some fabrication skills. Prep prep prep, especially with aluminum. My first project was my coil bracket. Then welded all my intercooler piping and turbo stuff (modify manifold, build downpipe etc. after the rush of getting the car on the road for summer was some fun projects (not that the others weren’t, just less pressure). Wife’s birthday present and since this thread is about welders.... my welding cart. pretty excited to learn all the fancy functions, improve my skills and really hone in on my patience. I’m really glad I went with a bigger welder. Aluminum eats the amps quick, so does the pulse function (manual or automatic). 200amp minimum if aluminum is in your future at all.

4 hours? All that welding would have taken me 2 days! Lol

Did you happen to pull the distributor shaft at any point? Glad you got it figured out.

I just compared my last MS2 tune with yours. I used three logic coil outputs using a 60-2 toothed wheel. If you compare our tunes, our settings are quite a bit different. EG Sequenced batch fire on, on yours off on mine, wasted spark vs wasted COP etc. it's been far too long since I messed with my MS to remember everything correctly. Ill load mine up, check out my settings in the compare tune section and try them out. CurrentTune.msq

I only have experience with my old unit, but I suspect 387 would be the same as 27 degrees. (360 degrees of rotation). I’ve never heard of a tooth angle that large. Check your timing. Something seems off. If your timing checks out ok. Try tooth angle at 27 degrees, and see if it stays the same. More for my own knowledge then anything else. Also, I see you have it setup as a toothed wheel. Is that the correct setting using the VR distributor? I’m focusing my attention on the timing settings as, if the spark output is working appropriately with each channel, it’s all about the timing. Start at the basics.

I just looked at your toothed wheel settings. Why on earth do you have it set as 387 degrees before TDC?

If it ran with a single plug, in the wrong hole I’d be checking your timing. Considering a well tuned engine would have trouble doing that in general. One which is 120 degrees out is even crazier. check your base timing at TDC and go from there.

Authentic LS coils? My first set ended up being knockoffs and never ran correctly. How’s the spark when you test the outputs?

I can’t help with your other questions, but people like to add a relay for the headlights, vs all the power running through the switch.

Fantastic design!

I have the same slop in my R200. Very loud clunking when driving. My issue is when swapping from the R180 I had to switch to poly bushings including the RT front mount. It is awful to drive is the poly is the issue. I will be digging my R180 out to test for the same slip that is in your video. If that’s the case I guess it’s just the hard mount and bushings. I’ve swapped the carrier in the r200 to an obx and there was no change in slop (proper backlash).