LanceVance

+1 for this as well!

I've been trying to ignore this thread, but the idea of flocked door panels and those carbon fiber door pulls is too much! Betting you won't be making these for 2+2 models though!

HERE is a thread with all the dimensions you need.

Search! But since I already had it bookmarked and I like to elicit a response from TonyD by spoonfeeding, HERE you go!

I have the same picture somewhere too...

+1, Assuming your using units from the front windows? Please shoot some pictures of the components before installation so us junkyard junkies know what to look for! Thanks for taking the time to share this with us!

Gahhh!

HERE you go. Bunch of teases on here! Edit: Just for fun, anyone know anything about this car? All I know is it's owned by a guy named Yasu Kohara.

I'm not sure of the exact details, or if it work for you but the newer Subaru STI's have an electric pump. Alot of people remove them while upgrading, so you might be able to get one for next to nothing.

Haven't seen many posts regarding electrolytic rust removal. Considering rust is something that all of us (at least most of us) have to deal with, I figured I would post up my results! I recently purchased this turbo manifold from a member on here, and it had the typical amount of rust. It will eventually get ceramic coated when I have a turbo to coat as well, but untill then I figured I would try this out. I followed the instructions found HERE. Manifold as it arrived... Worst area of rust... The bucket and anode... After sitting for two days, this is the anode, complete with holes... Anode and Cathode (the manifold) together... The manifold after about 1 hour of brushing by hand... The turbo gasket surface. Can still see the line of the old gasket (Might end up doing some porting!)... All in all, it came out much better than I expected! There is still a bit of rust around the ends of the runners, which was farthest away from the anode. I might just throw it back in for another day with the runners facing the anode this time. Turning the manifold would have given more even results (next time ).

Here you go! This might be able to help you out...

Modern Motorsports, and their customer service is regularly discussed HERE. Read it, take it for what it's worth and go from there .

Looking forward to it! I've planned on doing the spal kit for a while now, but if your install goes smoothly I might just have to go this route. Please include the years/trims and Part #'s so it doesn't end up cluttered like half the threads out there (most of the posts asking and speculating what exact part they need to get)!!

I might have what your looking for. Do you have the part # so I can check on the microfiche, or better yet a picture? I won't be able to get to it till Sunday, but I'm pretty sure I packed these up, if it's what I'm thinking of.

Looks pretty slick, I've been planning something similar and hope it comes out as clean as yours. Black powdercoat definitely makes it professional looking. Care to share the specs of the pumps you used (or better yet, part #s)?

1.) S13; S14 may work as well, but S13 is the 'standard' one that people use with the MM kit. 2.) You have to switch out the arms (bracket that attaches to E-brake cable) out from the left to the right and visa versa, which allows the 'MM e-brake relocation bracket' to attach the factory cable to the 240sx caliper; Most people fabricate their own piece for this as it is fairly simple and cheap to do so. This allows the 240sx caliper to function as a parking brake. Worth reading THIS as well if your doing this swap (particularly post #18) Also, please use some spacing... Just having everything in one long paragraph makes it a little difficult to separate the different questions your asking.

Recently I was with some buddies of mine who like to go paint balling on their off time, and they were discussing the use of N2O filled tanks over CO2. This got me thinking that given the similar characteristics between the two, that the tanks might be interchangeable, and I might even be able to use a paintball tank for a home built N2O injection system. After doing a little research it seems like that thinking would be correct, but I really don't know much about nitrous injection so I figured I would ask here. One of the things that always turned me off about nos kits was the markup on what seemed to be a few standard fittings and a pretty paint job on a less than special aluminum bottle. If I can get away with just buying the solenoid and spray nozzles specific to N2O use, I imagine I should be able to get a working kit going for much less than a kit with a purple bottle... Is this line of thinking completely off? Would this just be a disaster waiting to happen? As we speak there is a N2O specific tank made for paintball listed for under $20 on craigslist here that is calling my name. Thanks for everyone's input in advance! If it matters, this would be going on an L28ET with MS. Not looking to make crazy power with nos, just do a few passes on the quarter mile a few times a year.

Out of curiosity, what size tap did you use for the thermostat housing? I'm going to be doing something similar here in the future, but I don't have the housing handy to measure...

+1, That's where I got mine, good quality!

The Forza series...

I've got this one for sale, hows $20 + Shipping?

There is one on OC Craigslist right now for $900...

Looks good, definitely more solid looking than the usual hub adapters from eBay. Why don't you CNC a custom MOMO Fairlady Z horn button? (And then make me one...)

Is that an RX-7 Oil cooler? I've got one just like it that I've been polishing up and I plan on mounting it similarly. Slick looking rides by the way!

Any update on the Supra injector seal kits?