BJSZED

Omar, Do you think the coolant leak is coming from the NPT threads into the head ? What did you seal those threads with ? I'm about to do the coolant mod and am trying to figure what's best to seal the threads. I was considering just using blue silicone as I've used that before to seal badly damaged threads or using blue locktite.

ouch

me too, been here since 2015

I run the arizona with the 390 so can't help you with the clifford. Look up ozconnection on here. He has run both the arizona and clifford.

I'm thinking you will probably have to have a small filter on the valve cover like usual. Everything looks great, very envious.

How does the valve cover vent hose tie in ?

Forget trying to call Whitehead's. The only way to contact them is to email, and then cross your fingers. Best to shop elsewhere. They do great work but are absolutely horrible at communication.

I wondered why there wasn't any updated video's of your build....now I know. Too bad, wanted to see it finished

Did you have youtube video's on this or am i mistaken ?

Just a thought, sticking PCV valve ??

So, are you going to tell us what the final fix was or did I miss it elsewhere in your thread ? Was it the stub axle ? Or the diff ?

The car is just driven on the street but hard and Iwant to ditch the drums, everything is worn out back there. The disks don't need to work better, just need to work equivalently. I believe the rear caliper on the T3 micro rear kit uses 4 pistons with a combined total area equivalent to one piston with a diameter of 1.5 inches....can't remember exactly.

Thanks for the reply. The drum set-up is done and I prefer disks all around. They don't need to work better but they do need to work the same. I do want a balanced system so if changing to disks on the back messes that up, I will stick to drums. But, from what i have read on this site, If I keep the stock front calipers and master cylinder and go with the Maxima rear disk swap from motorsport Auto, the system should work well. If that is not the case, feel free to educate me. The techno setup is new so I was concerned that I would need to replace everything as a system which I don't want to do. The following was their response to my emails. ........................................... Would this kit work with the stock front 240z brakes? I'm guessing it is designed to work when both front and rear brakes are upgraded. .......................................... Yes, it will be compatible with the factory front brakes. We build everything to be backwards compatible wherever possible. In the end you'd likely want to upgrade the front brakes, but it doesn't have to be done right away. The rears are really easy to install. Just remove the factory drum brakes, mount the bracket, slip the rotor on and bolt the caliper on. Then run the new E-brake to the calipers. It bolts in just like factory. ............................................... One last question, i would need an adjustable proportioning valve with your brakes on the rear and stock on the front ? .................................. Nope. All our parts are meant to work with the factory hydraulics. You could add one if you like, but it is not necessary.

Looking at replacing my rear drums on the 240z. I was going to order the motorsport auto complete rear disk kit but then found the techno tuning micro rear brake kit, with integrated hand brake . My braking system is otherwise stock and I have no intention of changing the stock master cylinder or stock front brakes. I understand that the motorsport auto kit will work well with my setup. My question is if the techno kit uses a caliper with 4 pistons, would that not be too much rear braking? Techno says it is designed to work with stock components and a proportioning valve is not required. Guess, I am hoping someone else has tried the Techno Tuning kit ?

Disappeared like the boobs thread on classiczcars 😢

I had the same situation. Drill a hole all the way through the broken bolt. You should be able to tell when you're all the way through. Doesn't have to be a big hole. Then fill the hole with penetrating oil. Leave it for a day to penetrate from the bottom up. Heat it up with map gas on a regular old propane torch. When it's hot cool it with more penetrating oil. It should come out with some non-slip channel locks or vice grips.

Impact wrench, that's how most garages would do it. They wouldn't take the time to do it by hand. It should spin it off easily. Did you put it on with an impact wrench?

Same situation here. Put it in the pipe just after the collector

I believe it works out to apprx 2430 lbs, just googled it 1060 kg is 2337 lbs

I'm guessing the wire with the plug on it is an aftermarket coolant heater for cold climate winter starting. Looks like a 120 volt plug.

All the spots that look lumpy are likely rust bubbling up, pushing up the surface of the mat. Sometimes if you push on the bumps it sounds crunchy. I would remove it so you know what you have.

Yeah, probably not a good idea to drop the level unless you have a higher capacity pan

Might sound crazy but maybe a little less oil so it doesn't get all churned up at high rpm by the crank...gets foamy and pressure drops. Watched similar results on engine dyno tests on motor trend. If I recall correctly they picked up horsepower and oil pressure with a little less oil.

OP will probably figure that out with lack of responses....probably end up in the tool shed.

Thanks for your responses...good advice, will do