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Sorry, I should have said two pins that go to +12V and 2 that are routed to ground, with switches or a component in each circuit. Those are their states when the relay is not triggered. I didn't communicate that very well, so that's my fault. Once the relay is triggered, then the output pin has 12V like you said. I'm glad you got it figured out.

Four pin relays have two grounds and two positive, not 3 positive and 1 ground. I could guess at what the wires are based only on that, but you really should be able to figure it out based on the wiring diagram. Trace LY as far as you can and see if it runs to ground somewhere.

If you don't have a step you will completely stop all flow through the radiator other than the circular areas where the fans are. You need some amount of space behind the radiator for there to be airflow.

What kind of pads are you running? If you're overheating your stock pads, you may be able to just go to a more aggressive pad and avoid the work of setting up ducts.

Often times ducting is needed for road racing. The higher airflow prevents heat soak and fade that you don't run into with short Auto-X runs.

That depends on what you want to do. A single hoop with two backstays? Include an X? Land on the floor or strut towers? The answers will vary quite a bit depending on what you're aiming for.

Speedhut has everything 15% off though Tuesday.

AGP?

Where did you get those door cards? I've been looking into a custom job and that's the exact layout and colors I had planned on.

Thanks! It looks like the slots are on slightly raised bosses. Is that right?

I'm interested in fitting a set of the plastic a-pillar and head rail trims that came on on the 280 in 1977-78. I can see that the a-pillar trims mount with just two screws, but I haven't been able to find a picture or see in-person how the mounting screws attach to the pillar. If there are simply holes in the metal, that's easily replicable on a 240z. If there are standoffs, that gets a bit more finicky. Does anyone know offhand or have a picture/car they could show me to answer the question?

My only concern was that plumbing in all of the cylinders might reduce the flow gains out of 5 and 6.

This link says they're all the same https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/125714-ld28-crankshaft.html#/topics/125714

If you made it a separate piece from your current mount, you could just leave it installed on the car when you raise or lower the diff.

I've ordered from ZCarDepot(other parts, not fenders). They've been reliable and quick in my experience.

One of those should have it.

https://zcarsource.com/body-parts/fenders-components

http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html

https://zcardepot.com/catalog/product/view/id/1984/s/front-fender-rh-right-sheet-metal-240z-260z-280z/category/341/

Have you tried Google? http://www.blackdragonauto.com/features/z/zb2.htm

On subsequent episodes, they've mentioned that they don't remember if it was from a Hilux or Hi-Ace. Might be worth checking out what kind of booster comes on that.

The whole purpose of this swap is to do something cheap and readily available. If you use a material that requires heat treating and a specialty welder, you alienate almost the entire target market.

Oh, you want a compressor bracket. I think everyone was confused since you originally said condenser. The Nostalgic AC bracket that you linked was the cheapest option I could find through my searches.

I don't think that was for the masses. If it was, they would have shown how they built it. I think Nik just really wants a motorized flip front, and since this is his ridiculous project he's going to do it exactly like he wants. It would be a shame to spend a couple thousand hours on something and then think, "I wish I had..." every time you look at it.

You might have to update your price after the last 8 years. $2k doesn't get what it used to.