calZ

Davey hasn't been on this website in 5 years

On our racecar we ran two pressure gauges - one sensor at the pump outlet and one at the Accusump outlet. Both had switches connected to lights as well. The pump outlet had a yellow light to let us know if there was oil starvation in a corner, and the Accusump light was red, since if that one dropped too low it meant the engine had no pressure left at all. We were very happy with the setup.

Interestingly enough, the post refers to the tool shed, which no longer exists as far as I can tell. Old member coming back to scam maybe?

FYI - this user is very likely a scammer. They joined, made three posts on various topics, and then PMed me in reply to a WTB post with the classic "Have you emailed so-and-so? He's got one to sell. Hit him up at xxxxx."

This site had both terminals and housings http://www.vintageconnections.com/

I have the Hoke kit, which is no longer produced. I have no experience with the Futofab axles. You aren't fixing the outdated design of the axle holding the wheel on, but if the axles are strong enough to not break then it doesn't really matter I guess. The 8.8 kit would be the most future-proofed way of going, but also require swapping out a ton more parts than just the axles. As for ratio, I'm not sure. My short nose is 3.54 which I believe is the same as the stock 350Z ratio. It really depends on what speeds you'll be running at most of the time and what the power band looks like. You might have to change it up based on how the car drives once it's running.

Time to add AC?

How's the car been? This is still one of my favorite threads.

I'll go one at a time on your questions. T-56 vs CD009 Size: they weigh almost the same, and both will necessitate removing the original mounting ears from the tunnel. Assuming the rear of the engine is in the same place as an L-series, you'll need a shifter relocate for the CD009. I think if you get the F-body version of the T-56, the shifter lines up nicely. That's what TimZ did with his T-56 behind an L. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/126809-t56-behind-an-l-series/ Drivability: I've never driven a car with either of these trans, though I do have a kit waiting to put a CD009 in my car. If you're worried more about twisty roads and the track, I would lean towards the CD. 1st gear in the CD and 6th in the T-56 will likely both be useless in those cases, so you're basically comparing 1-5 of the T-56 and 2-6 of the CD. The CD has closer ratios over that span, but really what you want will be track/road dependent. The gears you use the most and the shifts you make the most would likely inform which one will be preferable. Diffs 5-600hp is a lot. The R200LN has a history of being able to handle that, but keeping it almost definitely means keeping the stock stub axles and drive axles, which are the weak points of the stock setup. You might be fine if you're just on road courses, but at 600hp I'd be a little worried about a stub axle snapping and your wheel departing the car. The R200SN and 8.8 conversions are both strong and easy to do. I'm in the process of putting an R200SN into my car with a swap kit from T3, but if I had to start from scratch, I might lean towards the 8.8 for a track car. The kit is cheaper from https://invincibleextremes.com/ than anything to put in a short nose. The 8.8 is a bit heavier, but the parts availability is so much better for brakes and hubs. It's impossible to get some stuff new for the R200SN setup, and even good used parts can be hard to find, especially if you go with the Q45/Z32TT versions of the diff. Mustang parts can be bought new and will be available for a long, long time.

Same. Hybridz is my "bored and need to kill 10 minutes" method of choice, so I look at essentially every new post that is made on the site. I'd be more than willing to do something productive with that time and clean up the spam/bots.

Can we ban this guy? Throw in joyce_mor too. They're either really convincing bots or just human shills that post generic compliments on random threads and then every few posts slip in an ad for 4wheelonline.

Rather than lowering the car, you lowered the wheel wells. Interesting concept. I'm keen to see it out of the garage and get a nice side shot of it.

Sucks that that happened to you Sean. I posted a wanted ad here and ClassicZCars and got a ton scam replies. I basically ignore anyone who doesn't have at least a moderate posting history. The name they tell you to email sometimes won't even match the email address. Perhaps PMs could be disabled until you've been on the site for at least 24 hours or something? Wouldn't stop all of them, but would make it a little more difficult

Isn't that how it's routed stock? There aren't two hoses going back to the water pump inlet. It's been a while since I stripped my engine, but I thought the heater just steals coolant from the turbo return? Tony is always big on that method because once the engine stops, the turbo can thermally siphon the cold water that just came out of the radiator and push it towards the tstat housing.

What's your current routing? Tstat to turbo to water pump inlet?

TechnoToy Tuning. They're also called T3 quite often. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/ultimate-steering-rack-240z

To add to this a bit, even though they aren't for the front, I just received some adapters I designed to put modern BMW speed sensors into a short nose R200.

classiczcars would be worth a check too if you don't get an answer here. They're very into keeping the old stock stuff functioning.

Are you sure it's not the engine bay side of the linkage getting stuck? It's pretty common for the original mechanical linkage to get a little sticky over time.

Isn't that exactly what I just said? The head was designed well for what it was intended to do. It is a "problem" created by using something outside of its intended purpose. I didn't call it a flaw, or a mistake, just a problem to solve when you're using a design for something it wasn't meant to do. You're getting hung up on the word problem and assuming I meant it was Nissan's problem. It's a challenge/hurdle/consideration/difficulty that you must take into account when building a high performance engine. The traction of a stock 240Z is not a problem at all, but if you try to run 9s in the 1/4 with one, traction becomes a problem. It's the same thing. We've probably threadjacked enough with our contest in pedantry, so I'll stop now

https://milkfab-engineering.com/shop/ols/products/milkfab-l-series-280z-ac-damper-crank-trigger-kit

I bet if you posted it on one of the Datsun part Facebook groups, it would sell pretty quickly.

The engine should fit fine. It's just a V6, right? S30 engine bays are huge and fit just about anything. This is kind of one of those things where if you have to ask, it's outside what you should attempt. You'd need either the transmission that goes with the engine or an adapter plate for another transmission. Then you could make a custom driveshaft to attach it to the diff. As long as you have an R200 and aren't doing a bunch of drag launches, the diff should hold. Axles and stub axles are where the weak points would be. An 8.8, R230, or short nose R200 swap for the rear would be good insurance. Chassis stiffening would likely be needed at that power level as well. You'll also have to either retain the OEM ECU and integrate that into the existing wiring while figuring out how to flash out all the requirements that likely exist for the ECU to be connected to other body modules, or just go full standalone and rewire the whole engine. You might be able to find someone that has a plug-n-play product for the engine.

You maybe mentioned and I missed it, but how are you attaching the body to the frame? Completely removing the floor and making a new one? Or just cutting slots and dropping it over the tubes?

1. The OP asked if he should go with the T3 shortnose swap kit 2. People replied that the long nose would probably work as well 3. Thoughtful_edit added his support for the swap kit because it comes with the additional benefit of getting rid of the stub axles. That's a very clear path to follow. He was acknowledging that you could theoretically swap in hubs without changing the diff, but that the kit does that and more. He's used "mount" to refer to the hub/backing plate assembly three times now. Would backing plate be a better word? Yes. Is it still easy to follow what he's saying? Also yes. Both Thoughtful_edit and I understand how the whole assembly works. We both own the T3 kits and have removed our own rear suspension and replaced it with a short nose setup. Neither of us are confused, you're just latching onto one sentence without any context and hammering it into the ground.