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If it's the correct pump and shipping isn't too outrageous, I'd be willing to do that. Do you have any idea about how much shipping would cost?

Cut just enough that you can bottom the shock and then trim more afterward?

I also have no interest in putting heim joints on a street car. They're noisy enough as it is. I couldn't really get a good picture to show the depth of the grooves, but I did my best to measure them. One is less than a tenth of a millimeter deep, and the other is just under 0.2mm deep at its deepest, and less for most of it. The tube is 25mm, and the bolt that goes inside it is 22mm at the max thread diameter, so 1.5mm of metal on each side. I'm going to guess there's more than a 10-15% factor of safety on the tubes, so it should be ok. I might still try to just put some tacks in and smooth it back out. If sheet metal can be welded without warping, I'd think the tube could be. Buying a new one is also an option if I see a cheap one. Thanks everyone.

One of my rear control arm/transverse links had a bushing that was rusted to the tube. I tried a few different things to get it off, but eventuality had to resort to cutting it off. In doing so, I accidentally went a little deep on both sides and scored the tube that slides inside the bushing. One side is hardly more than a deep scratch, but the other side is more significant. What are everyone's thoughts on dealing with this? Run a small bead of weld down the groove and grind it smooth? Or just run it as is? I had assumed the bushings rotate around the tube when the suspension moves, but is that not the case? Or did this bushing just somehow rust solid in the ~2.5 years it's been sitting in my southern California garage?

I'll be very interested to see how much this car weighs once you're done with it.

Oh, you wanted shops to put a different engine in your Datsun, not a shop to work on your Datsun. If you wanted someone who knows SR20s, you should specify that in the question.

Oh damn. $99 is a heck of a sale.

Yes, ProTunerz has been around for a bit. People seem to be happy with their products, despite them just being remixes of things from this forum. You might try the fuel rail OG, pallnet. I'm not sure what his prices are these days.

Newest thread in this sub-forum 5 years old? The top two non-stickied posts are from the last couple months

https://datsunspirit.com/

No. You need aftermarket engine management if you want to go fully sequential.

Anyone ever hear back? Someone on Facebook was asking if they were responding again.

You are correct. Thanks for that. I must have had oil on the mind last night while typing. A water pump is what I'm after.

As the title says, I'm looking for a genuine LD28 water pump with the larger impeller. Hopefully someone that bought one back in the day still has it lying on their shelf somewhere.

I wonder if there's anyone that produces a projector light that has etched glass or something similar to imitate a reflector light. In a vacuum I think I'd prefer the old school look, but it's close enough that the performance gain is worth it.

Any particular reason for not just going with a standard mirrored dual exhaust?

It all comes down to personal taste, and how much you value form vs function. I think they look fine, and modern projectors are going to be much better than reflector headlights.

I have a 1972, but I'd still love to see pictures of the molds. What material did you print them in?

I've looked into a lot of the CNC router options that claim they're capable of cutting aluminum, but I've never been convinced the stiffness is there to get super accurate. What kind of tolerances are you capable of holding?

No, I never made a tech drawing for that one. You're using a different sensor anyway, so it'll be different. The measurement I have for the dust shield screw spacing is 72.675mm. You should be able to figure the rest out.

I have to re-measure for my sensor adapter since I originally designed it for stock uprights and I'm now using T3 uprights. It'll have to use the two front holes rather than the two top holes. I'll attach the dxf of the existing mount. The easiest way would be to get it laser cut and then use a washer or two to take up the offset. I don't think it's worth breaking out the CNC unless you just want the bling. Keep in mind everything is translated from metric to inches since AZC likes to use that. I adjust a couple of the dimensions so they were ridiculous decimals, but depending on who cuts them and the tolerances, you might have to do some fiddling to get them to fit. SensorMount.dxf ToneRing_AZC.dxf ToneRing_AZC.pdf

What size are the brake rotor bolts?

Thank you. I probably wouldn't have finished it without other people being interested in it and spurring me along.

Oh dang, I didn't realize the AZC 8-hole hats bolted to the hubs using a 5-hole pattern. I would think these adapters would work, then, unless the rotor hat is thick enough that you can't get an adapter in there. I'll edit the file later tonight and PM you. Also, I edited the original post, but another note is that before ordering/making, be sure the outer diameter of the adapter will fit inside your brake rotor. I'm not sure of the different dimensions on brake rotors out there. I designed this to use without bolted on rotors, so check for your application.

Ok, here is a PDF of the final drawing along with the actual DXF I sent to the laser cutters to get cut. Along with two of these adapters, you'll need: 1. Two tone rings. They are Dorman 917-557 or equivalent. They are the FRONT ABS tone ring on the 1998-02 Forester, 1994-99 Legacy, and 1994-99 Impreza. Don't buy rear tone rings, since they're different and won't work. These are cast parts that aren't perfect, so you may have to tap the legs with a hammer or tweak them with a crescent wrench to fine-tune the fit. Sometimes the bolt holes aren't perfectly concentric or square with each other. 2. M6x1.0 screws to fasten the tone ring to the adapter. I used McMaster 93395A360. https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/93395A360 They're 20mm long M6x1.0 hex drive flat head screws. This length is perfect for a 3/8" thick adapter. You could use socket caps or button heads if you CNC the adapters instead and want to make flat-bottomed countersink holes. Up to you and adjust things as necessary. 3. If you use the above screws, I used this tool to countersink the holes. McMaster 3213A163. Go slower than you'd expect with the drill press or it will chatter and your hole will be ugly. https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/3213A163 4. A sensor mount. This should be simple. I recommend using 2 of the 4 dust shield screws to capture it. They're drilled all the way through, so just use a tap to finish threading them all the way. You can then either leave off the dust shield and insert the screws from the back of the spindle face, or replace the stock screws with longer ones that stick out the back far enough to get the mount and a nut on. 5. Hall effect sensors. I'm using ZF GS100502. The choice here should be pretty forgiving, but data sheets are your friend. 6. If using with stock-style rotors, longer brake rotor bolts. Application-specific, so up to you to figure out. IMPORTANT NOTES: 1. Stock brake rotor bolt size is M10. Silvermine uses this same size for their hubs, hence me using 10.8mm holes. T3 uses M12 bolts for some reason. If you have T3 hubs, be sure to measure the brake rotor bolt size before ordering/making your adapters, or you might end up having to drill the holes out. 2. I ordered my adapters in 3/8" aluminum. This leaves, with no brake rotor on the hub, ~9mm between the tone ring and the face of the spindle. I'm converting (well, in the process) to slip-on rotors, so this doesn't matter to me. If the mounting thickness of your brake rotors is close to 9mm or more, you'll have to make the adapters in thinner than 3/8" material. I measured some I had in the shop and they all seemed to be thinner than 9mm, but again, check beforehand. 3. If using this with stock-style rotors, check that the outer diameter of the adapter will fit inside your chosen rotor. This goes between the bolt head and your rotor, like a big washer, so be sure it will sit flush and flat. 4. Obviously, do this at your own risk. Adding ABS and traction control to a 50-year old car isn't an everyday thing, so I assume anyone doing this will have a solid grasp on the concepts and the skills necessary to pull it off. ToneRingAdapterFinal.pdf ToneRingAdapter.dxf