calZ

You could build a mount (spindle/backing plate) for new hubs and connect them to the long nose R200. That wasn't a very difficult translation. The OP mentioned wanting the T3 swap kit for the R200, failing to understand he needed to specify he was talking about the short nose. Thoughtful_edit is adding that a big benefit to choosing to do the swap kit is that you get rid of the stub axles, i.e. OP goes with the diff and he gets more benefits than it holding the power of the VQ37. Are you being willfully obtuse or just pedantic because you want to be right? You're one of the most knowledgeable people on this whole forum, but you have a habit of trying to condescendingly demonstrate your superiority to new members and "put them in their place." That usually drives them away, and in the age of Facebook, we need all the members we can get here.

I don't have experience with those wheels specifically, but 225 tires are super common on 15x9 wheels for racecars. The tires we ran were 225/45r15, so yours will have a lot more sidewall and thus less stretch than a lot of people race on. I think you'd be fine if you wanted to go a little narrower for more clearance. It looks like the selection for tires to go on 14" wheels is pretty slim these days, though.

It doesn't directly, but almost no one swaps shortnose diffs in without the corresponding switch to S14/Z32/Q45 hubs.

Bump

So are you spacing the wheels out to the flares then? Not worried about being that low and the original lips riding on the tire? That's generally why people trim the lips

You're going to put flares on but not trim the original sheet metal? What's the point of the flares then, just to make your car look lower?

There are lots of posts about people running 245s on stock sheet metal. You likely don't even need flares if that's as wide as you're going.

I wasn't blaming Nissan for anything. They designed their engine for a purpose, and it did that well. But who is buying a 3rd party head and isn't expecting to push the power to a point that they're bumping up against the cooling limits of the original design? In that context, it is a "problem". If you plan on running stock power levels where the cooling system performs just fine, why would you spend $10k+ on a brand new head casting?

Right to the cage is how I prefer it, as long as the straps end up at horizontal or with the mount points lower than your shoulders. I'm sure both the harness manufacturer and the SCCA have specs for the acceptable range. You'll have to check for rubbing on the seat as well.

This is a lot further forward than the cowl would be, but see my old MR2 racecar as an example.

One thing I see a lot in automotive aerodynamic discussions online is that people tend to group things into "high pressure" and "low pressure" areas, when in reality it's anything but binary. The cowl area is definitely near the upper end of the pressure range, but as long as the engine bay is even higher, air will still flow. There's been plenty of people who run a popped hood and get better cooling, which shows the potential, but the cowl vents are much closer to the windshield in a relative sense. Are you allowed to add metal the outer body of the car? A raised flap/ramp in front of the cowl openings would almost assuredly make the pressure gradient favorable enough to get flow how you want it.

My day job is doing aero analysis and design for a defense company. A big thing when we design planes is that to reduce drag, you want to capture the absolute minumum amount of air possible in the inlet. For the purposes ot a car, the inlet would be the grill opening. It's pretty common knowledge now, but ducting the radiator and blocking everything else off has huge benefits. In my experience, a lot of people who work around certain things think they know a lot about it just because they're near it. Welders thinking they know structural design, contractors thinking they know architecture, and apparently Bob thinking he knows aerodynamics.

Your setup sounds good to me. As Tony mentions in the link I posted, it sets up a siphon with freshly cooled water from the rad once you turn the engine off.

I always thought the "correct" way was feed from the thermostat housing and exit to the water pump inlet. There's some discussion about it here https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/130709-l28et-cooling-system-layout-critique/

For that, there's the self-learning FI systems that just replace the carburetor. If you want anything more complicated than that, there's a large step because you can't use the existing equipment on the engine.

If the pedal travel is too much, just upsize the master cylinder.

You can actually get 275s in the rear without flares as long as you have adjustable suspension

Nope. Chrome on Android

It only happens when the page loads slowly. It starts as the Skillard logo and then swaps over. It seems like either a redirect or the logo updating as more page elements load.

I'm talking about the favicon. The little icon that displays on the tab next to the page name, or is the only indicator of what the tab is if you're on a mobile browser.

I may just be crazy, but I've noticed the last couple days that when a page loads slowly, the Skillard logo is on the tab, and then transitions to the HybridZ logo. Does Skillard own the site now? Just hosts it? Or is my phone having a strange glitch and I'm just dumb?

I'd think 1/2" would be within the realm of just rolling your fenders rather than going through the work of adding in new metal and blending it.

Are you going to be street driving the car? You don't really need a speedometer on the track IMO. If you end up getting a lap timer, many of them can display MPH as well.

I saw the snippet about 3/4 when reading about the head yesterday. Do you know if he did anything specific to alleviate the 5/6 problem? Is his plan for that just the internal changes being enough?

Just for the casting, right? Rockers, valves, etc will add up