calZ

Blocking off the empty fresh air duct holes would help as well. Air is surprisingly adept at making its way around a heat exchanger if there is a path with less resistance. Edit: Ducting the radiator like Jon said is definitely the first priority, though. There's a lot of space for air to get between the splitter and lower core support, so that's where a ton of air is going. You could do what Jon said, but I think an easier route would be to just add a flat plate to the top of your bumper/splitter support structure, and then fill in the gaps behind and on the side. It doesn't have to be beefy stuff as long as it's secured well. I've used 1/4" plywood before, and that worked perfectly along with being light.

Two years?! Where did you order them from?

What did you have to do? It looks like you could trip a bit off the end of the arm and still have good contact with the stop. Any update on reworking your coil bracket?

I found a better diagram to look at than the one I uploaded. The green-white wire is what I was referring to. Thinking about it more, it doesn't really matter what those wires did, since I won't be using any of the original circuits. I was asking mostly as a sanity check, but I'll just put power to the DZ start and check what it puts out to the pins and then wire off that.

This is the strangest bot

I'm working on a full schematic for my car's wiring before I physically wire it. I'll be using a DZ start module, and I'm looking at changing from the included relays to some in a fuse box. I'm trying to keep all fuses/relays in one place, rather than scattered around the car. In the ignition switch, there's your standard contacts for the accessory power, ignition power, and starter relay, but there's also a pin that heads to the coil via the tach. This wire is also joined to the ignition pin through a resistor. Am I interpreting this correctly when I conclude that since I'll be using coil-on-plug and an aftermarket tach that I can omit this wire?

The semi-recent conversations I've had with people who know a lot about the L-series seem to peg the stock rods at ~100hp each before you're playing with fire. I believe Carillo still makes rods for the L. Pauter too. If they don't list them on the website, give them a call. You can always order custom as well.

I think emailing the company you got the harness from would be the best way to answer your questions.

It seems to be going well so far!

If you could find a stiff spring that fits tightly around the hose, you could use that to prevent the kinking.

A whole lot of whirrrrrrrrr

Manifold, and upon inspecting the two lower exhaust studs are broken. I had no idea it could be worth that much. I'll have to work on cleaning it up a bit and getting a video of it running.

He posted it there first, and then I advised him to post it here

Did they not want to sell it by itself? I emailed them a couple years ago and they sent me just the bracket.

Big Willow is a ton of fun. Going through 8 without lifting is a good test of how much you trust your car and how brave you are. I've never run Streets, but heard good things. We were fine at Laguna on a stock V6 with a single turbo muffler and a tip that pointed up and left. The sound measuring station is on track right between 5 and 6, which is why everyone points their exhaust up and left. The limit was 92db then, but I think they lowered it to 90db now for all but special events. Thanks, NIMBYs who moved in 50 years after the track was built.

It's not the Bay, but Laguna Seca is not much further south.

Yeah, combustion chamber design has advanced a lot, and then computer control as you mentioned.

It's an LS3

Vtdds71 talks about his experience with the ZPS unit on the last two pages of this thread. I believe @dmoralesbello has a ZPS unit as well. @primaz talks about his Silvermine kit in this thread. There are quite a few people who have gone the Saturn Vue or Toyota Yaris route as well. I think there's another person or two on the forum with the Silvermine kit, but I can't remember who at the moment.

There are working pictures later in the thread, but this should do the trick

I have an N42 L28 with twin round top Su carbs that was a good runner when I put the car on jack stands 2 years ago, but it hasn't been started since. I'm looking to get rid of it now to put an L28ET in. What's something like this worth?

I would guess that they designed it while consulting with engineers and fabricators, rather than a marketing team. No flash, but damn does it work well.

That's entirely possible. It just seems to me that the holes for a 280Z hole pattern booster would run into the edge of the 240Z pedal box, and then the clutch master would need to be moved along with the pedal being modified to match. I don't have a 280Z box in front of me to compare, though, so it's just going off pictures. I asked on classiczcars as well, and someone was going to compare them for me.

A universal pedal box would be a level of rework I'm not necessarily interested in for that area of the car.