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The semi-recent conversations I've had with people who know a lot about the L-series seem to peg the stock rods at ~100hp each before you're playing with fire. I believe Carillo still makes rods for the L. Pauter too. If they don't list them on the website, give them a call. You can always order custom as well.

I think emailing the company you got the harness from would be the best way to answer your questions.

It seems to be going well so far!

If you could find a stiff spring that fits tightly around the hose, you could use that to prevent the kinking.

A whole lot of whirrrrrrrrr

Manifold, and upon inspecting the two lower exhaust studs are broken. I had no idea it could be worth that much. I'll have to work on cleaning it up a bit and getting a video of it running.

He posted it there first, and then I advised him to post it here

Did they not want to sell it by itself? I emailed them a couple years ago and they sent me just the bracket.

Big Willow is a ton of fun. Going through 8 without lifting is a good test of how much you trust your car and how brave you are. I've never run Streets, but heard good things. We were fine at Laguna on a stock V6 with a single turbo muffler and a tip that pointed up and left. The sound measuring station is on track right between 5 and 6, which is why everyone points their exhaust up and left. The limit was 92db then, but I think they lowered it to 90db now for all but special events. Thanks, NIMBYs who moved in 50 years after the track was built.

It's not the Bay, but Laguna Seca is not much further south.

Yeah, combustion chamber design has advanced a lot, and then computer control as you mentioned.

It's an LS3

Vtdds71 talks about his experience with the ZPS unit on the last two pages of this thread. I believe @dmoralesbello has a ZPS unit as well. @primaz talks about his Silvermine kit in this thread. There are quite a few people who have gone the Saturn Vue or Toyota Yaris route as well. I think there's another person or two on the forum with the Silvermine kit, but I can't remember who at the moment.

There are working pictures later in the thread, but this should do the trick

I have an N42 L28 with twin round top Su carbs that was a good runner when I put the car on jack stands 2 years ago, but it hasn't been started since. I'm looking to get rid of it now to put an L28ET in. What's something like this worth?

I would guess that they designed it while consulting with engineers and fabricators, rather than a marketing team. No flash, but damn does it work well.

That's entirely possible. It just seems to me that the holes for a 280Z hole pattern booster would run into the edge of the 240Z pedal box, and then the clutch master would need to be moved along with the pedal being modified to match. I don't have a 280Z box in front of me to compare, though, so it's just going off pictures. I asked on classiczcars as well, and someone was going to compare them for me.

A universal pedal box would be a level of rework I'm not necessarily interested in for that area of the car.

Nobody? Maybe I should have put this in the general S30 section

Has anyone swapped the pedal box from a 260/280 into their 240? I'd like a new and larger booster/master combo. The Toyota Tacoma option would work great, but my 72 has the earlier booster bolt pattern. I'm capable of drilling four holes, but the 240z pedal box looks like it would need some metal added, so I figure it would just be easier to use the later pedal box. Is there anything else that's different between the versions? Are there issues mounting the steering column? I guess I'm planning on going EPS anyway, so I could just grab a 280Z version of that if necessary.

A lot of the budget endurance racing teams(Champ/WRL/Lemons) use alumalite. It's essentially the same as the aluminum honeycomb sheets, but with a plastic core instead. It's much more cost effective than the pure aluminum. https://overnightgrafix.com/alumalite-material.html Plywood is definitely the easiest and most cost effective. Sanding the edges and giving it a decent paint job would make it hard to tell that it's wood unless you really look closely.

Also, you may have noticed I switched from T3 to Silvermine hubs. That's not related to this endeavor and the stuff would still work with the T3 hubs. The Silvermine hubs have a much longer section of the hub that is 73mm, so I can use a wheel spacer or a slip on rotor and still have the wheels be hub-centric. I didn't like that the T3 hubs had just the tiniest little area for centering. I'll be selling them soon if anyone was thinking about buying a set.

Small update. I finally got around to ordering some laser cut adapter rings, then countersunk the holes and test fit everything. It looks great.

Yeah, just let me know. They're just in a box on the shelf.