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Oh dang, I didn't realize the AZC 8-hole hats bolted to the hubs using a 5-hole pattern. I would think these adapters would work, then, unless the rotor hat is thick enough that you can't get an adapter in there. I'll edit the file later tonight and PM you. Also, I edited the original post, but another note is that before ordering/making, be sure the outer diameter of the adapter will fit inside your brake rotor. I'm not sure of the different dimensions on brake rotors out there. I designed this to use without bolted on rotors, so check for your application.

Ok, here is a PDF of the final drawing along with the actual DXF I sent to the laser cutters to get cut. Along with two of these adapters, you'll need: 1. Two tone rings. They are Dorman 917-557 or equivalent. They are the FRONT ABS tone ring on the 1998-02 Forester, 1994-99 Legacy, and 1994-99 Impreza. Don't buy rear tone rings, since they're different and won't work. These are cast parts that aren't perfect, so you may have to tap the legs with a hammer or tweak them with a crescent wrench to fine-tune the fit. Sometimes the bolt holes aren't perfectly concentric or square with each other. 2. M6x1.0 screws to fasten the tone ring to the adapter. I used McMaster 93395A360. https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/93395A360 They're 20mm long M6x1.0 hex drive flat head screws. This length is perfect for a 3/8" thick adapter. You could use socket caps or button heads if you CNC the adapters instead and want to make flat-bottomed countersink holes. Up to you and adjust things as necessary. 3. If you use the above screws, I used this tool to countersink the holes. McMaster 3213A163. Go slower than you'd expect with the drill press or it will chatter and your hole will be ugly. https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/3213A163 4. A sensor mount. This should be simple. I recommend using 2 of the 4 dust shield screws to capture it. They're drilled all the way through, so just use a tap to finish threading them all the way. You can then either leave off the dust shield and insert the screws from the back of the spindle face, or replace the stock screws with longer ones that stick out the back far enough to get the mount and a nut on. 5. Hall effect sensors. I'm using ZF GS100502. The choice here should be pretty forgiving, but data sheets are your friend. 6. If using with stock-style rotors, longer brake rotor bolts. Application-specific, so up to you to figure out. IMPORTANT NOTES: 1. Stock brake rotor bolt size is M10. Silvermine uses this same size for their hubs, hence me using 10.8mm holes. T3 uses M12 bolts for some reason. If you have T3 hubs, be sure to measure the brake rotor bolt size before ordering/making your adapters, or you might end up having to drill the holes out. 2. I ordered my adapters in 3/8" aluminum. This leaves, with no brake rotor on the hub, ~9mm between the tone ring and the face of the spindle. I'm converting (well, in the process) to slip-on rotors, so this doesn't matter to me. If the mounting thickness of your brake rotors is close to 9mm or more, you'll have to make the adapters in thinner than 3/8" material. I measured some I had in the shop and they all seemed to be thinner than 9mm, but again, check beforehand. 3. If using this with stock-style rotors, check that the outer diameter of the adapter will fit inside your chosen rotor. This goes between the bolt head and your rotor, like a big washer, so be sure it will sit flush and flat. 4. Obviously, do this at your own risk. Adding ABS and traction control to a 50-year old car isn't an everyday thing, so I assume anyone doing this will have a solid grasp on the concepts and the skills necessary to pull it off. ToneRingAdapterFinal.pdf ToneRingAdapter.dxf

I could make them work if you didn't need to attach brake rotors. Finish my slip-on rotor project for me and I'll send you a set of tone ring adapters. They should work fine with your hubs. I haven't checked the spacing with a rotor between the tone ring adapter and the hub, but everything should still clear. I'll do some quick measuring to check, and then post the final measurements I gave to SendCutSend. It was $52.76 for the two adapters in 3/8" aluminum, and then I countersunk the holes myself.

The tone rings are mounted to hubs and on the car, so I think it's pretty much at completion. I guess I don't have the sensors bolted on, but that's trivial. I won't have working traction control until the car is on the road, which will be a while.

A terminated harness for an L-series? They make those now?

Interesting. Personally, I'd want no part of a rubber isolator on my car that has been melted and modified, but that's very creative.

You can replace the stock isolators with camber plates and it will lower your car. I don't know of any way you could modify the stock isolators, though.

That makes no sense, thermodynamically. Massflow is king when it comes to cooling, assuming you don't reach the point it cavitation.

Buddies with CNC mills are the best kind of buddies.

Could also just do some lost PLA casting. That would be perfect for a part like this that doesn't have to be perfect to the thousandth. If you've got the money, though, nothing beats the bling of machined parts.

Yeah, that's not surprising. Even a wheel being out of balance or flat-spotted will make the wheel shake, but you can't really feel it throughout the car. What type of wheels do you have? Is it possible to run without the spacers to see if it fixes the issue?

Can't get front wheel spacers to sit flush? By that do you mean you have spacers between your hubs and wheels and they are not sitting squarely? If so, that's your answer as to why the steering wheel shakes.

Also, that's a 2+2 S30, not a 280ZX/S130. The owner might be right that it's a 1978 and is just confused on 280Z vs 280ZX. Unless it's been engine swapped already, it's definitely not a turbo motor.

If it doesn't load right away, I just refresh or click the link again, and that seems to do the job. It is slower overall than it used to be though. It started for me a few months ago after the site went down for 2 or 3 days. I theorized that it's on a different, slower server now.

If what you've just done doesn't work and you want to test the effectiveness of ducting, just do it with some stiff cardboard and duct tape. You could seal and duct the whole area in probably half an hour, and it would give a good idea of if the aluminum fab time would be wasted or not.

Blocking off the empty fresh air duct holes would help as well. Air is surprisingly adept at making its way around a heat exchanger if there is a path with less resistance. Edit: Ducting the radiator like Jon said is definitely the first priority, though. There's a lot of space for air to get between the splitter and lower core support, so that's where a ton of air is going. You could do what Jon said, but I think an easier route would be to just add a flat plate to the top of your bumper/splitter support structure, and then fill in the gaps behind and on the side. It doesn't have to be beefy stuff as long as it's secured well. I've used 1/4" plywood before, and that worked perfectly along with being light.

Two years?! Where did you order them from?

What did you have to do? It looks like you could trip a bit off the end of the arm and still have good contact with the stop. Any update on reworking your coil bracket?

I found a better diagram to look at than the one I uploaded. The green-white wire is what I was referring to. Thinking about it more, it doesn't really matter what those wires did, since I won't be using any of the original circuits. I was asking mostly as a sanity check, but I'll just put power to the DZ start and check what it puts out to the pins and then wire off that.

This is the strangest bot

I'm working on a full schematic for my car's wiring before I physically wire it. I'll be using a DZ start module, and I'm looking at changing from the included relays to some in a fuse box. I'm trying to keep all fuses/relays in one place, rather than scattered around the car. In the ignition switch, there's your standard contacts for the accessory power, ignition power, and starter relay, but there's also a pin that heads to the coil via the tach. This wire is also joined to the ignition pin through a resistor. Am I interpreting this correctly when I conclude that since I'll be using coil-on-plug and an aftermarket tach that I can omit this wire?

The semi-recent conversations I've had with people who know a lot about the L-series seem to peg the stock rods at ~100hp each before you're playing with fire. I believe Carillo still makes rods for the L. Pauter too. If they don't list them on the website, give them a call. You can always order custom as well.

I think emailing the company you got the harness from would be the best way to answer your questions.

It seems to be going well so far!

If you could find a stiff spring that fits tightly around the hose, you could use that to prevent the kinking.