calZ

Nobody? Maybe I should have put this in the general S30 section

Has anyone swapped the pedal box from a 260/280 into their 240? I'd like a new and larger booster/master combo. The Toyota Tacoma option would work great, but my 72 has the earlier booster bolt pattern. I'm capable of drilling four holes, but the 240z pedal box looks like it would need some metal added, so I figure it would just be easier to use the later pedal box. Is there anything else that's different between the versions? Are there issues mounting the steering column? I guess I'm planning on going EPS anyway, so I could just grab a 280Z version of that if necessary.

A lot of the budget endurance racing teams(Champ/WRL/Lemons) use alumalite. It's essentially the same as the aluminum honeycomb sheets, but with a plastic core instead. It's much more cost effective than the pure aluminum. https://overnightgrafix.com/alumalite-material.html Plywood is definitely the easiest and most cost effective. Sanding the edges and giving it a decent paint job would make it hard to tell that it's wood unless you really look closely.

Also, you may have noticed I switched from T3 to Silvermine hubs. That's not related to this endeavor and the stuff would still work with the T3 hubs. The Silvermine hubs have a much longer section of the hub that is 73mm, so I can use a wheel spacer or a slip on rotor and still have the wheels be hub-centric. I didn't like that the T3 hubs had just the tiniest little area for centering. I'll be selling them soon if anyone was thinking about buying a set.

Small update. I finally got around to ordering some laser cut adapter rings, then countersunk the holes and test fit everything. It looks great.

Yeah, just let me know. They're just in a box on the shelf.

I have some un-sectioned housings I'd sell you if you wanted to start fresh rather than adding in a piece. Not sure what part of LA you're in, but I'm in Redondo.

It's slowed down a bit, but it's still alive

No flat spot for a wrench at the top of the shaft? An impact will work to tighten/loosen them. We used to do it frequently on the race car. The shaft spins, but there's enough resistance that the impact will tighten it down.

Well, it depends on a lot of things. An LS is going to be the cheapest and easiest to get that kind of power. Th RB keeps it Nissan, but they're expensive. A JZ will get you all kinds of street cred at import meets, but they're also expensive. What's your budget? Do you care about lineage? Manual or auto trans? There are so many more factors than just the power level

The oil still gets run through the filter eventually, since not all the oil goes to the same place each time through.

We loved Raybestos ST-43 pads in our racecar. A lot of the endurance racing guys swear by them. Their bite is pretty consistent from cold to hot, and they wear like iron.

I'd say follow the manufacturer recommendations. I know Koni says no boots, but others suggest them.

Got it. I thought it was probably something like that.

What exactly is a zero hole?

I've ordered from them a few times. The only issue I've had is they didn't send a part, I asked for an update, and they replied "Oh its back-ordered for 12-16 weeks. We'll let you know when we get them in." They were prompt about issuing a refund when I asked for one, though.

What's the name of the shop? It would be interesting to look at the pictures on IG.

I suppose an alternative would be to just have the ECU(will be a Haltech in my case) output the wheel speed data to the MK60. I believe I could setup an output that scales one set of the VSS pulses to match the number of teeth on the other set. The MK60 wouldn't know the difference.

Big Sur is a great choice for a stop. I haven't been there in a few years, but Julia Pfeiffer State Park is right on PCH and has some nice little hikes if you're into that. You might also be able to catch some elephant seal stragglers on the beaches near Hearst Castle.

I've long been planning on and working towards having traction control in my car. I've been doing some reading about the MK60 units. It's handy that it outputs the wheel speed and yaw data as raw values that ECUs can read as regular inputs. It avoids having to make the can systems communicate. The only downside is that the ABS unit requires the sensor ring on each wheel to have the same number of teeth. I haven't pulled my R200SN off the shelf to count, but I'm guessing it doesn't have the same number of teeth as the Subaru tone rings I have for the front.

What are you using to control it?

What brand is the ABS unit? Aftermarket or pulled out of another car?

It doesn't affect the actual spring rate, but it changes the wheel rate. The further you space out the wheel, the longer the moment arm pressing up on the spring, reducing how stiff the suspension is.

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128708-wide-body-build-thread-fiberglass-mafia-kit-molded/

I would guess the fact that it was displayed at SEMA gave it a good price bump, and yes, it having an RB26 definitely upped the price compared to a big block Chevy.