calZ

Those mounts look great, but the load being focused on 3 narrow strips of the bushing rather than being spread across the entire area worries me.

S13s are 4-lug, so you could just use all stock S13 parts for the conversion.

So you're going to run a twin scroll turbo with separate wastegates off a log manifold?

Because people who were kids when they were new are now in their 50s and have money. The same trend happens with almost any car. It's why Supras and GTRs have taken off in the last few years too. Once the kids who grew up idolizing them have money, the prices go up.

Prices went up long before coronavirus. It's been a pretty steep upward trend for 3-4 years.

Your number is about right. I got mine for $1k and felt like it was a good deal. It had already been checked out at the machine shop.

If there's one thing HybridZ loves, it's actual engineering. Nice work.

You don't need an image hosting service. You can upload the image directly into your post. You want to tighten the hub nut? I don't know what MM hubs look like, but if they're the same as any other hub you just pop the cap off with a chisel or screwdriver. You could probably get by with a hard plastic trim tool if they have a nice finish you don't want to scratch.

Climate control meaning set it to a temp and let the controller figure out the rest? What are you using for that?

No, they understand. They're trying to solve the actual problem rather than the one you've created. The only way you can make your car cool less is to reduce cooling capacity. So you can put in a smaller radiator that won't keep up when it's warm, or you can put in a thermostat that works like it's supposed to when it's cold and then work to make sure the engine stays cool when it's hot out. If your problem is that the engine doesn't start cooling itself at a low enough temp, then put a lower temp thermostat in so it opens earlier. That's essentially what you've done with the holes, except there's no off switch for holes. Or, leave it at a stock temp thermostat and either upgrade your radiator or do better with fans/ducting to increase your airflow. Is 210 even too hot? I've never done an LS swap, but everything I've seen/read says that stock ECUs don't even turn the fan on until well over 200. 210 in a worst case scenario sounds perfectly within the stock specs.

Why do you have holes drilled in the thermostat?

And if there isn't room for the stock AC compressor, using one of the modern electric compressors would be an option too.

I'd love to see the whole appraisal. It would be very interesting to see what they consider valuable and what they don't. I'll PM you my email address

It will likely come down to cost. If they cost $1k you'll sell a million. If they cost $3k you'll probably sell 3. There have been billet cranks available for the L-series in the $3-4k realm, and there's a much smaller market for those than the real V07s in the $1-1.5k range

Removing them as an included item would be an interesting decision. If it's this difficult for a company ordering a large batch to get a supplier to do them correctly, imagine how difficult it would be for a single set? I think having to source your own custom axles would turn a lot of people off from the kit.

I think the rear would look a lot better if there weren't two different colors on yh4 hatch. The black roof stopping before it gets to the taillights creates kind of a "shelf" effect that detracts from fastbacl design. IMO either paint it all one color, or carry the black all the way through the bottom of the hatch.

When you're saying 40/60, are you meaning 40 rear and 60 front? Generally front to rear weight bias is referred to as F/R. Removing 100lbs from an engine on a car the size of an S130, all else being equal, is going to shift the weight 3-4%, not 10%. I think an average driver is going to have a very hard time noticing that difference.

What shape are your suspension bushings in? If they're extremely worn, it's possible that under load the suspension geometry could change, despite it being aligned correctly while static.

Did your engine have an automatic transmission attached to it before? If so, be sure you've removed the flex plate spacer/adapter from the back of the crankshaft. It's sometimes pretty hard to tell its there, and a very common mistake.

You're not the only one that has had communication issues. I think they got a little behind on stuff and have responded by going mostly silent.

Multiple people have put either a door lock popper or a small hatch popper in the hatch near the latch. Since the lock cylinder just presses a lever arm, it's not too difficult to make a cable pull that same arm. The only visible change would be two added wires from the hatch to the body, but running those next to the rear defrost power wires would hide them quite well.

Fantastic work as always, Derek.

If it's a street car, why not just keep the standard seat belts?

Converting to 5-lug hubs has no effect on your transmission. Are you wondering if you change your hub pattern and wheels if it's going to affect your speedometer accuracy? Wheel diameter doesn't matter at all to your transmission either, only tire diameter. So I guess to answer your second question, there is no need to change your speedometer drive gear if you do not change the diameter of your tires. If you do change the diameter of your tires, no, the speedo gear will not magically know this. Your speedo will read faster or slower than reality, depending on if you increased or decreased the diameter of your rear tires.

Pusher fans don't really need shrouds. Is there any air gap between the sheet metal and the rad? From the picture it looks like all you're doing is blocking flow.