tube80z

I think you'll find in this day and age most things are measured the way they are because of convention. SAE has a standard set of definitions that are commonly used in the automotive world so people understand what each other are talking about. Cary

Canola oil works really well too. Just make sure to wash it off before it hardens. And a 5/8 bridge reamer does a really quick job of this if you have one. Cary

But the way the tested made weight much less of a factor. In a semi-steady state test the only factor would be an increase in rolling resistance. And from the results it appears that's a very minor factor. Now if the test would have been accelerating up to a certain speed then the 800 pounds of clay would have made a much larger difference. All that said I was pretty shocked with the result too. I'm still willing to bet you could have used a lot less dimples and gotten the same results. But it wouldn't have looked so cool. I wonder how many people are out there trying to figure out how to dimple their cars Cary

From what I saw in the water tank the dimples didn't seem to be any different than vortex generators on the roof line and back of the car. I'd be willing to bet you'd see a similar reduction using them in strategic places. Lexus already does this underneath their cars so at least one manufacture is on board. With regards to racing cars if it worked and was allowed by the rules it would probably be done. And usually drag is traded for downforce, which makes a much larger difference in lap times.

Yes. Years ago at the Fall endruo in Medford a guy showed up with a group B vega rally car. It had wings, 4wd, and a supercharged cosworth engine. It was the first car I ever saw that could drive over the old high curbs and shifted three times down the front straight. I only wish I had picture. Another time we had a Deacon Monza show up. A Lemans running Porsche 934 and Jose Garza's Indy car. There's been some really bizarre to really cool equipment show up over the years. BTW -- Enduro is this weekend. C

Try searching for bump steer spacers and you'll have a lot better luck.

I've found goof off works much better than brake cleaner once you've got all the big pieces off. And you can buy it by the gallon. Cary

Take my advice with a grain of salt (or a few pounds as the case may be). You haven't mentioned tires and that's the first thing I'd look at. Try and find a car that uses the same tires and see what they are using for camber gain. My gut feel is that 50% recovery from roll is too much. I'm guessing that it's going to be in the 20 to 30 percent range. If you have too much with modern radials it will give you snap oversteer. And the way you'd end up fixing it is running really stiff to keep thing from moving. With regards to motion ratios you will want to keep those very close front and rear. That will make shock tuning much easier. And I'd also make sure you're new rear suspension moves the RC in such a way that the car tends towards understeer on corner exit. If you can think about having some adjustment in the rear for RC height as that can be a powerful tuning tool. Hope that helps, Cary

Flip the pads after each weekend and you'll not really have this issue. Cary

Thread moved to a better home. Cary

See the sticky at the top of this forum for Bilstein options.

I use a similar set of pads from PFC and I'd opt for less rear torque and heat range. If you have an infrared probe check disk temps but I'd guess the rear is less than the front. In PFC I've had good results with 01 on the front and 97 on the rear. Trying 01 all around seemed to cause balance issues as the rears were in and out of the range where they worked. I know this isn' the same pad as you're looking at but the idea is the same and I can't say it worked that well for me. Cary

You can use the 280ZX pump and bracketry. A friend used this with the subaru rack and it worked just fine. Cary

550s actually. And you could feel the splitter from about 35 MPH on up. We really needed to balance it out as it would cause the front brakes to work too well at speed. It really needed an equally large wing in the back. Sorry to say we have no real data other than the feeling and how deep we could go on the brakes with it on. The car was setup so that at speed it would be level and have rake as we went onto the brakes. Under power it was slightly nose up but still seemed to help. Cary

Taking the rack apart isn't that hard to do and you could clean up the old grease that's probably gotten a little nasty. On my previous car that made a large difference to the steering feel. The old grease was more like wax. Cary

The only bit of caution I might add is that if you have tripples (or even SUs) sometimes the intake noise is greater than the exhaust. In that case an airbox will help. Cary

On some rally car prep sites they have been talking about using liquid nitrogen for removing sound deadener/undercoating. Google should give you many hints. If I had to do this again I'd seriously think about it.

By Shutter do you mean it vibrates severely? If so then I'd expect an out of balance wheel/tire or an out of round wheel/tire. Poly rack bushings and a solid steering coupler can often make these symptoms worse. Cary

They are vented, attached is a pic of the Ferrari front brakes from Malaysia this year. The rotor floats on a hat, which floats to the hub on a splined interface. Cary

So you're the responsible party for Marc?! We need to have a talk out behind the shed On my autox car I use the lightweight rotors with gas slots. Not as light as the cross drilled rotors but they last a lot longer. On a friends EP car rotors were lasting one qualifying and race before they broke and he had a lot of ducting. Switching to cryogenic treated rotors solved the issue. He routinely sees 1200 degree temps. Cary

Nice work!

No, you're not alone. Saw that one myself and thought it was a nice looking car. I think I'm watching the older episodes on A&E or something like that. Still lots of catching up to do. Cary

It's hard to say for sure what you'll need to do for the Avons. You'll need to find someone with first hand knowledge of their care and feeding or do a lot of testing. On a friends EP car it took more spring to turn the GYs on and once that was done the car decimated the track record. Tire temps had been in the 105 to 115 range. Now they are about 180, which is still low according to the GY engineer. All I can say is your LA numbers still look low but that may be track related. On slicks I'd expect to see low 1.4s when everything is sorted and working well. I know you're no longer using the FA tires but your setup wasn't correct for them to work properly. FA tires are designed to be used as half your suspension travel. Until you do that they don't seem to work very well. And I know they are designed for a light car (1380 lbs) but you have to remember those can make 3000 lbs of downforce.

Here's what's on the site. Send original register receipt dated between May 18, 2009 – August 31, 2009 showing proof of purchase of five (5) one-quart bottles or one (1) five-quart jug of Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy motor oil and completed offer form to: 2009 AFE for Alliance Rebate Offer P.O. Box 1103 Grand Rapids, Minnesota 55745-1103 Offer conditions: All rebate requests must be received by September 17, 2009. Limit two (2) rebates per person and per household. Rebates can be combined in one envelope. Allow approximately 6-8 weeks for delivery following receipt of all required documentation.

Unless your springs are marked you will need to measure them directly. One approach often used is to put the spring on a bathroom scale and press using a drill press. You push down a set mount (usually an inch) and take a reading. The other way is to measure the coils and do math -- but who likes math Cary