EF Ian

I'm lucky to have some great driving roads where I live. Won car of the show at a recent show: Changed the location of my front plate: I got an external mic for my GoPro so I tried it out, it was too close to the exhaust so once its hard on boost I was getting some distortion, next time I'll have it further from the exhaust: Low Boost Run: Took her to the drift track but it turns out my sump baffling isn't adequate and I was experiencing starvation about 1/4 way through the corners so I called it day but through a few circles first: I've made plans to upgrade my baffling massively and will be suing these rubber flaps: I removed my bumpers for re-chroming and I quite like the bumper-less look at the rear: I've got a new stroage location for my cars so I can keep them both in air chambers: I received my custom overflow tank from Pro Alloy: Planning a few things, will be upgrading to adjustable rear arms soon, oil sump upgrade, get boost by gear working for first gear takeoff. I'm also looking to run wider rear wheels, I'm thinking I can run 8.5" wheels with 245 tyres and I'm looking to use Watanabe wheels and will be taking he extra space from the inside, will end up close to the coilover but should be do-able.

I wasn't happy with my stamped engine plaque so I got one fully custom made by laser engraving: Looks way better: Got a new mascot: Got my plastic tail light chrome trim surrounds re-chromed, they aren't perfect but much better than what was there, I've got 2 spare sets now so I'll send the best away to a different company and hope I get a better job. I was hating my rusty rear bumper bolts, so I've changed them to titanium ones, 12g vs 32g, only saved 80 grams overall, but hey, I guess every little helps, if I changed every bolt on the car to titanium I'm sure it would save a couple of kg, but I'm not a millionaire so that won't be happening. I'd been running Hawk HP+ pads which were working great, but they were very dusty and it was destroying my wheels so I've changed my pads to Pagid RS29's, so far they seem just as good, they are still dusty but not as bad as the Hawks and the dust seems less corrosive. I found a nice model of an S30, even has a similar intercooler to mine: Tail light panel was looking a bit tired so time for a refresh:

Thanks The fuel tank, radiator and intercooler are all custom builds from Pro Alloy and I've just received a radiator expansion tank from them, everything they've made for me has been top quality, great craftsmanship and works really well. I couldn't be happier with their stuff. Because its all built to my specs it means everything fits perfectly and looks like its meant to be there instead of just going with generic parts which can look out of place. The inter cooler is working great, it could easily handle another 200hp and still provide sufficient cooling. They are not cheap however for the quality of their parts/work I don't think its bad and its true you get what you pay for.

Does it feel better than modern electric steering systems which can be turned with one finger but remove all feel of the steering wheel being anyway connected with the front wheels?

Not got time to upload photos, but if you take a look at the photos in my build you can see how the mounts, engine and sump all sit. I am using McKinney mounts. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113907-78-rb26-260z/page-3

+1 for needing an update.

Thanks for the update. Would it not be easier to run it MAFless?

I think I'll try to to for a diamond shape box with two rubber flaps per side and another straight baffle plate behind that with at least 4 of the rubber flaps. Not all that happy with my sump so I'm considering getting a new one made to my design. There a guy in Australia who's sumps look good. http://www.cjfab.com.au/?page_id=225 Thinking about one of those but with a larger tray and my design of baffling. It has a cnc flange so at least it should be level unlike mine which would make sealing it much easier. I'll upload some photos of the above sump and my current one and see who think it better to modify mine or start with a new one.

So, I can still get the rubber trims that go on the corners of the front bumper, but it doesn't seem possible to get the ones for th rear bumper? Surely there must be somewhere making these? Anyone know of a source?

Looking great, must be nearly there now.

I'm having oil pickup problems with my RB when on track, current trap door setup is fine for acceleration and braking but sucks for cornering. So I plan to add another box around the pickup. Metal hinges or rubber flaps? Diamond or square? In my head square with the side of the sump works best but I see more at 45 degrees to the side (diamond shape if you will) so I assume this is bettter but I can't work out why?

MAF doesn't have to be binned, you can use it if you wish, I however got rid of mine right away, gives you so much more options for routing the piping and placing the filters, plus its better for tuning. You'll need a map sensor in any case even if you run MAF's as you need it to allow boost control so you might as well scrap the MAF's.

Can't comment on the AEM as they are not so common here, However I believe they are also very good. All the top ECU's these days are very good, choose from AEM, Link, Motec and Haltech and you can't go wrong. For me its either Motec or Link. The link has all the features you could want and its very easy to use, I setup the entire ECU myself including building a base map to drive it to the tuners on. Never needed any support but Link is meant to be excellent for this. One of the best buys in my project. Any decent tuner can tune any of the above, if not they probably are not so good, however ask yours what they prefer. Have a look at my build thread, you should be able to see my trigger setup there, its from a UK tuner called MGT Racing, works great and its great value compared to the ross kits. A better trigger setup is well worth it.

Still running good? Enjoying it?

Glad it went well, looks good on track. I have the same problem with my diff breather, need to sort out a solution when I'm home next, I guess a fitting threaded in with an extension tube going somewhere higher on the chassis is the easiest option. Imo you are best to go with a top ecu and let it control your boost, has many advantages over a boost controller. If you have a good ecu you don't need to worry about running an AFR gauge either as you can't monitor it properly on track all the time anyway, just let the ECU monitor it and it can alert you to any issues and you can set it to apply an RPM limit if it goes outside the values you set. This applies to all parameters, oil temp, oil pressure, boost, water temp, fuel pressure, etc. I'm running a link G4+ Xtreme ECU and it was worth every penny, its so capable and I know my engine is safe all the the time as it monitors all sensors a hundred or so times a second.

Have a look here and you can see the plate I made, massively improves airflow through the intercooler/radiator. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113907-78-rb26-260z/page-2

Only 4-6 clicks on mine.

Enjoy it, take some videos, hope it goes well.

Bet that was a handful on that damp track. Would love to see a video of it full throttle on a dry track. Have you finalised your Geo setup?

Bay and engine looking awesome.

Savage42 - Should the B2015C be good for an RB26? I currently run one with it but its no use, won't hold its charge and discharges very easily, my fault though, when setting up the RB after the swap I discharged the battery too much by lots of cranking and then couldn't get it on charge for another day after that, I reckon that killed it I intend to replace it with the same, provided you feel the 2015 is up to the job, don't really want to go bigger unless I have to as it mounted behind the pass side seat.

Some nice photos:

Let me know once you've driven it more, might be worth it even if its just used below 20mph. Parallel parking would be so much easier.

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Looks like some very high quality work, hope it performs as well as you want, should be loads of grip now. Very hardcore for a car you still plan to use on the street. Not sure if a car like that would be street legal in the UK.