SleeperZ

Man, it's been a while. I re-read this thread and see some opportunity to get to the bottom of this issue, which strangely, has not gone away despite me ignoring for so long. - I rewired my ignition so I am using the factory L28ET coil and ignitor, and just using the MS output to trigger it, keeping the coil current out of the MS box. Although the ignition signal is quieter, I still have the periodic miss. -I pulled my distributor and ensured the DIY wheel and sensor were functioning as designed, with a 1k resistor pullup to the battery voltage. I spun it with a drill and watched the signal on my eBay oscilloscope - perfect. - Last night I hooked my scope up to the PCB of my MSIII, tach in and the VR output. Interestingly, it ran like a whole bunch of crap with the scope probe on the VR output (the distributor signal still looked good), improved back to normal periodic miss when I took the probe off. - Then I re-wired the tach input through the optical input and looked at the output. I got better and cleaner signal out to the MSIII, so I will keep it that way, but it still has the periodic miss. One thing I see now that I did not before, is this periodic miss is not caused by the tach input. Whatever is upsetting the MS, it is not the tach signal, which is very clean and not upset when the miss happens. I see the tach signal widen (slow down) during a miss, but the signal is not disturbed, so I need to look elsewhere. So now, reviewing the suggestions, I think I will try the cap on the H1 boot. Perhaps the noise level in general is causing a reboot. But maybe before that, I can try moving where my Megasquirt ground is bonded. Currently it is connected to the starter bolt, the same place as the battery ground. I can't see how connecting that to the body would be an improvement, but at least if it makes the problem worse or better I will know I'm on the right track. And Matt, I will see if I can capture a data log during this miss. As with all software, I do not often explore the details or understand the options, but I will see if I can capture anything of note.

Unless you capture the vapors in the cannister and plumb them into the intake, you will smell them as they evaporate from your tank.

I think the spoiler looks pretty good. Way better than most that I've seen; I'm not a fan of rear wings/spoilers on the Z in general.

What fun!

That is stunning. I love your cage, it looks very practical and out of the way.

You've jumped in on a carbureted draw-through turbo discussion. If you've got something different, I would suggest starting your own thread beginning with your specific setup.

So it should fit without any problem, right?

Darn right, better aero, better stability.

"INSTALLATION: Any warranty claims arising as a result of the failure of a Helical LSD will ONLY be entertained if the LSD was professionally installed " What is the criteria for determining whether a unit is "professionally" installed?

The slip yoke for the T-5 is different. But all the differential flanges will interchange even if there is a differential difference between the 3.54 (turbo) and the auto, or the non-turbo 3.90.

How cool! Congratulations, T3 makes good parts from what I see, I will keep you in mind.

I am working on correcting a periodic ignition miss on my L28ET with MS3. It's a noise issue, and happens every 2 seconds or so, but every time it misfires my wideband goes full lean. My understanding is the O2 sensor is directly responding to the oxygen in the exhaust, not the fuel.

That article made a point that makes sense to me, in that drag reduction is more important in higher speed events like drag racing and land speed events. Wings that give more downforce are favored in road racing where speed through turns gains more advantage than straight line speed.

Indeed, hence my original comment on the compressibility of fluids.

I have no idea since you have not given any information. But when I drove my Z from Colorado to California, my mileage dropped to less than 20mpg and it ran rich, so I replaced the filter and that fixed it. If you want useful help with your issue you need to give details on your car. Engine, fuel injection, modifications, history. Even if it's completely unmodified, you need to say what the issues are, when they started, what you have done...

Replace the air filter.

You do not need much heat to defog a windshield. I think electric is a good way to go, probably only need 300W-400W.

Difficult question without a whole lot more details, but in general I'd want to consider the compressibility of the fluid to compare the delay times.

It measures head temperature, it is a dry sensor.

With that much rubber, unflared, I don't think you can hide the fact it's a full blown back-halved race car. It looks amazing, but sorry, it's not a sleeper.

It amazes me how much you love this car and what lengths you go to restore it. I wish you continued fortune and success.

I hope that craiglist ad sits around longer than that engine.

Sounds more like a road racing application, 30mph to 100mph. I would think your horsepower goals need to be very specific for the type/class of racing you want to do. I've got 300hp and I am totally happy with that. Others like to play with much more than that.

That goes for me as well. Do what you need to do Mike, but do know you and your efforts are appreciated.

There are a few threads on wheel studs in this forum where the diameter is specified.