NewZed

My 76 has the nipple style. Yours may have been modified. Modify it back to what it was. Or just unscrew the senders and swap them. Use a wrench on the nut underneath, don't try to turn the body, It might twist and destroy the guts inside. And a 78 oil pressure sender also has a switch inside. Two blades, not one nipple.

The four speeds will work also, if you're doing a 71C swap. Reverse switch hole might need drilling.

Does it start and not run? Or not start and not run? Or not spark and not run? There a different mounts for different distributors. The wrong one will give the wrong range. With points it's pretty easy to see when they are about to open. That will be when the spark happens. You can get a rough idea of timing by timing by looking at that. Turn the distributor until the points are about to open and see where the timing mark is. Sounds like your ignition circuit might be shorted. "Trying to start" could mean standing there with the key on, or cranking the engine for extended periods of time. You could measure voltage with the key on and compare it to key off. If no current is flowing, they'll be the same. If the circuit is shorted there will be a voltage drop. Could be that your points just need adjustment. Not opening.

I would measure length first. Overall, and each case, front and back. The smaller cars and trucks seem to come with shorter tail shaft housings. And you can see the countershaft bearing by popping off the front cover, no need to split the cases. Here's another example of ID code. "E" and "C". http://www.midwesttrans.com/webapp/catalog.jsp Good luck, have fun.

Here's an example - http://www.manualtransmissionpart.com/NISSAN-Cars-ID-Make-Model.html The parts places are all screwed up. Don't use them for any ID by number.

Sorry, I miswrote. Nissan still calls the transmission the 71C even in 1994, for the 240SX, US market. It's when you buy parts that you'll find the other letters. It's messy. This is from the 1994 Service Manual.

There are lots of variations out there. Length of the tail shaft case, for instance. Yours doesn't look like either of the two 240SX units shown in the popular writeups (Nigel/Motortopia and Steve/zhome), which also don't look like each other. Better triple check.

I've never seen a good explanation of what the B or C means. Most call the later transmission the 71C because that's what Nissan calls it in the 300ZX Service Manual, when the VG30 was introduced. But there are many other letters used. Even the early 71C's had the same synchros and gear widths as the 71B's, so once you swapped bells you had essentially a 71B with a different shifter and set of gear ratios.. But, the countershaft bearing size was larger fro the 300ZX 71C, so that's one definite difference. The later US market 240Sx 5 speeds with the extra synchros and wider gears were actually either a 71H or 71J (can't remember which), not 71C.. So, in your case, you might still have a smaller countershaft bearing, and an unususal set of gear ratios, and either the same number of synchros or more. I would find a Service Manual for 1992 European 200SX and see what it shows. Nissan's casting marks and numbers haven't been very useful, at least on the early Z's.

Not clear if you're hoping this is the front case/bell housing or the gear set. Looks like you got a 71C gear set, that will need a 71B bell housing to work on an L6. The shifter is an easy clue, and the cross hatched bell. You can check the angle of the mounting holes also.

Isn't this edwin's thread? Confused.

Check page 89, it describes the tap and turn procedure. Be careful on the torque values for the bolts, one of the books, either Monroe's or Honsowetz's, has a mistake. Your shop will probably get it all done right though, if they've worked on them before.

Most people call them cam towers. If he marked them they should go back on just fine. Search "cam tower alignment" and you'll probably find some threads about tapping on the towers while bolting them in place. The towers are the bearings. Interesting work you're having done since lash pads are hard to come by, along with new rocker arms. Plus the issues with cam break-in. Details on what parts he uses and how he sets them up would be worth posting.

You need more info like brand (struts), and condition (everything).

Your Distrub is actually a Crank Angle Sensor (CAS). Are the injectors labeled ABCDEF for sequential injection? Seems like all that you're really showing is that some devices get 5V and some get 12V. Are the wire colors on your Distrub correct for the 198X turbo CAS, and coil wires correct for LS2 coils? Details like that would add some clarity. You need a Legend.

These threads came after the FAQt - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/100094-cv-axle-discussion/page-3 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105514-m2-cv-adapter-for-z31t-cv-280z-stub-axle/

Never mind, wrong side.

Megasquirt is open source, I believe. Some hot rodder/coder out there could probably figure out a way to drive two ignition types at once. One for the plugs and one for the 240Z tach. The "adapter" might just be a separate ignition coil that discharges to ground, dedicated to the tachometer. It would look like a plain old points ignition system to the tachometer. A person could even run a distributor just for the tachometer, if they had a crank trigger for the plugs. It would have no plug wires or coil wire. The coil discharge wire would be attached directly to ground. Actually, you wouldn't even need the cap, except to protect the points. You could build a smaller cap for that purpose. The distributor and its points would just be an RPM counter for the tach.

Aren't the stock 300ZXT axles too long anyway? Even if the adapters are the same width/height the stock axles will be too long after re-drilling. The 280ZXT CV axles seem to be the right length. But they're hard to find.

Weren't you planning to use the 280ZX Turbo companion flanges? http://alteredz.com/240ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm Or do you have 280Z hubs and axles in your 240Z?

So cg, are you suggesting that he not contact Sakura Garage? I was going off what's on your web site. Don't want to send people down a dead end. "We specialize in L28ET motor swaps and wiring the 280zx ECU into the stock harness. In addition, we build custom wire harnesses to use the VG30 ECU and components with a L28ET swap."

Check out cgsheen's shop. He's a fan of Nistune, but with the VG30E control system, mid to late 90's style, Pathfinders, Maximas, 300ZX's etc. Click through the Products link. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117612-sakura-garage-stance-usa-coilover-kit/?do=findComment&comment=1102814

Actually, considering that he said that one day it locked up, implying that he was rolling and locked the tire, it could be that something broke inside, like a shoe retainer, and jammed between the shoe and the drum. So, in the end, unless the adjustment hole is in the right spot, RebekahsZ's advice may be the only way. Or, rolling backward to unjam it might work. I'd start it up, and see if some reverse action would at least get the hole in the right spot.

Most of the advice you'll find is for brake drums that have rusted on after sitting for a long time. Yours sounds like a mechanical problem with the parking brake mechanism. They don't rust overnight unless you drove through the ocean during the day. Study the Brake chapter of the FSM and examine the parking brake parts. No use beating the crap out of things until you're sure the parking brake isn't stuck.

Depends on the transmission.

Looks like MS II will drive six coils. You just need more BIP's. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/using_bosch_bip373s_with_megasquirt.htm Sequential injection is pleasing to think about but apparently adds little above low RPM. The injectors can't squirt all of their fuel while the valves are open and air is flowing. The cylinders can't tell the difference. The SDS guys seem to know some stuff. http://www.sdsefi.com/techseq.htm Wasted spark wastes its spark on the exhaust stroke. There's nothing in the cylinder to burn, and the exhaust valve is open anyway. No pressure or fuel available to cause a detonation. Use the money saved on MS3-Pro to upgrade those other parts. Sorry, just can't let the illogical pass by un-noted. 22 minutes? Are the manifolds left on, and the heads lifted just enough to slip the gaskets out and in? There must be a trick.