NewZed

You might be getting distracted by the removal of the harness with something that happened along the way. The EFI harness may not be the issue. Wiring diagrams look hard, but they're not really. The FSM has many small diagrams, in addition to the big one. Check the Body Electrical chapter and see how the starter solenoid gets its power. Then look at the places where the break in the circuit might be.

That wire actually powers the solenoid in the BCDD. There's no sensor in there. Did you take the BCDD off or apart while you were cleaning the throttle body? Sounds like a vacuum leak of some kind. A leaky BCDD might be the problem. Crank means engine turning over, or crankshaft spinning. Crank is what the starter does, it used to be done by a human with a crank handle, that's why people still say crank. After cranking comes ignition, then starting, then running.

The crazy (whatever that means) needle sounds like your reference port has turbulence or fluctuating vacuum. Try a different hole. Or you need a fuel pressure damper, like the stock setup. The math problems could either be bad gauges, bad/low resolution FPR, or the measurement ports for the FPR and the dash gauge are in different spots, seeing different things. Seems like you could run them both from a T at the same port. Just some thoughts. I don't have any of these things, but understand the concepts. The Walbro probably doesn't have anything to do with the problem. It just spins and pushes fuel.

If you know how to make it work, and you're just trying to get on the track, wouldn't a manual switch, or a separate relay work for you? Cut the wires or pop the pins to the contact and rewire.

Take one of the other gauges out and measure. You'll see how they come out and you'll know if the clock is too large. The Book says back.

Are you running batch fire, six at a time? My plain old NA stock EFI L6 has always had some degree of periodic miss. I can affect it by adjusting the mixture via fuel pressure or cooling temp. circuit resistance, or AFM idle bypass screw. Seems like very lean on the idle gives the least missing. In short, maybe it's not electronic, maybe it's idle mixture. The problem with batch fire at idle is that there are six different fuel timing scenarios, with each pair of cylinders getting fuel at a different time in one crankshaft rotation, and each individual in a pair alternating between two of those scenarios. It can hurt your head to ponder. Might be an inherent problem with EFI batch fire and why the manufacturers all use sequential at idle. Every miss is an emissions burp.

I'm far from expert myself. Just repeating odds and ends I've picked up. What's inside the fuel cell now? No baffles, or pickup system? Seems odd to build just a large rectangular steel box for fuel.

Your main concern with an unbaffled 240Z tank should be fuel starvation on corners. If the driver plans to drift it might be an issue. With a turbo engine it's an important issue. Proper baffling or the surge tank will solve that. Submersed pumps tend to be quieter than external. Might be nice.

Trust but verify. Old cold war saying. Ronald Reagan.

You could use the self-diagnostic functions of the engine's control computer and get at least a small clue. The flashing lights. And if you're using a meter you might as well report real numbers, rather than "really low". Engine control systems with ignition timing and dwell control use coils with really low primary circuit resistance. Having a systematic plan would help also. You said you thought you might have bad gas, but you changed the fuel filter instead. "Hot start" is mostly associated with the L6, not the V6. Wrong engine. It's probably been in fail-safe mode since you bought it. The picture's from 1990 300ZX but Pathfinder is probably the same.

"System". Of external fuel pump. 1983 Turbo cars used an external fuel pump. It doesn't need internal/submersible. External is sufficient. If you want submersible for other reasons, that's something else. But it's not the only way to go. Good luck. Read the Surge Tank thread in this same sub-forum.

The stock system worked fine with an external pump. The engine doesn't know or care (getting anthropomorphic) how it gets its fuel. You're making simple things complicated.

37 psi, by the book. For stock.

I would start a new thread in the Troubleshooting section, as suggested to the first guy, and describe in detail what your problem is. Why add to a thread that's already in the wrong place? Your engine doesn't even start now, so not really EXACTLY the the same. Add details like automatic or manual, how many circuits you've checked with your meter, whether or not any fuses have blown, condition of fusible links, etc. The basic stuff. Add whether or not it's ever run, how well it did if it did, and when the problem showed up. There's not much to work with in your post. You can check the reverse switch by disconnecting it also. No need to install a new one until you check the electrical.

I don't have a turbo. Better get a Walbro. It's got the name. And rated to 500 HP! Universal. OReilly's isn't gonna fly. http://walbrofuelpumps.com/255lph-walbro-gss342-intank-fuel-pump.html Your post #3 picture opens but the first two don't. Spinning wheel...

The OReilly site will pull up some options for you - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Fuel+Pump/C0401/C0025.oap?year=1983&make=Nissan&model=280ZX&vi=1209428&redirectkeyword=fuel+pump I've had the Airtex E8312 in my car for about 40,000 miles. No issues.Just use the rubber wisely to isolate it from any metal, for noise avoidance. Didn't really look at your picture. Maybe you want an internal pump. By the way, there's something odd about your pictures, they won't expand when clicked on. Maybe they're too big.

But you're leaving out all of the cost of enlarging the seat area for bigger valve seats for the bigger valves. He already has an N47 also. Plus the realignment of the cam towers, hoping that they work, moving the valve train over, etc. I don't see why anyone would use an E31 on an L28 unless they had to. Just not making sense. How much does that bump in CR buy you, and is it usable on pump gas? He's "not building a high performance engine, just close to stock and reliable." Post #3. Your advice might be good, but it's off-target. He's not building a race engine.

You should start a new thread. Nothing worse than finding a bunch of clutter at the end of an FAQ thread. The FAQ's are supposed to "all killer, no filler". Not frequently asked questions answered over and over again.

So, basically, you're going to spend a lot of money to avoid having liners in the exhaust ports? I'd source an N42 head, send it to Slover and be lots of money ahead. Same end result, much cheaper. If you have the pile of parts, piecing together valves and castings with machine work might make sense. But the N42 is already there.

Put the shoes and springs together off of the backing plate, on a bench or the floor. Fold the shoes toward you like closing an open book, keeping the springs in their holes, using the springs like hinges. Place the various contact points of the shoes and mounting areas of the backing plate together and push the shows flat like opening a book. The springs will stretch as the shoe ends get pushed apart. Use one hand or a helper or a rope or string or bungee cord to hold them in place while you insert the pins from behind and lock them down. Can't remember but I think that you might be able to mount the adjuster between the shoes after the shoes are mounted, or hold it in between the shoes before you place them on the backing plate. Anyway, if you try it, the fine details will fall in to place..

He said that he thought the E31 head was worked on. The N47 already has the bigger valves. Why not just have the N47 head worked on? The exhaust liners? Is it exhaust or intake where the L heads are restrictive? Tony D mentions E31 mythology, is there much to be gained with the E31? I would assume he will use carbs so my brain says drop the L28 in, unmolested, and spend the time and money on getting the carbs tuned right, if they're even the right carbs for a bigger engine. 17% more displacement, with an engine that should be good for another 100K miles. The Nissan factory really seemed to do a great job on putting these engines together. Thank Deming.

Without that piece (which I would call a "rest" or "stand-off" or similar, just saying. I think of "stoppers" as things a the end of motion, not the beginning. Not that it really matters.), the adjustment arm will be in the wrong position to turn the wheel. Wasted movement with no adjustment happening. It's important.

You could always put it all together and see how the missing piece affects operation. Since you have things apart. That would be interesting.

Two wrongs? Notice the parentheses in your link. Anyway, most parts on critical components, like brakes, are there for good reason. I'd put it back to the way they designed it.

Seems like it could affect operation. It positions the lever at rest, and doesn't allow the adjust to travel too far. You could probably fabricate one pretty easily. And it's just a hand brake, mostly for parking. Or limping home. Have you ever tried to stop the car with it, at any speed at all? Just a distraction in an emergency.