NewZed

Didn't see your edit, edits don't show as new posts. What are these "o-rings"? You have fire ring on top of sealing ring? Maybe your o-ring material is too thick or it's designed to be used with a certain type of gasket. The head actually sits on top of either of those and the rest of the gasket only compresses as far the rings. You might be too high on the sealing area, whatever it is. Describe the ring, and the groove, and the sealing area, in general. Might help. Seems like you might have a mis-match there. I have not built any engines.

Which head, which block? What head or block or year is the gasket spec'ed to? And which coolant passages? There aren't that many.

I bet this guy would take $400 - http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/4966997149.html Maybe he'll deliver.

You could probably find a whole car for $500 or less, somewhere. That's why end up in the wrecking yards. Just a thought.

You might double-check your hub measurement, if Joe is going to use your number. It looks like your caliper body is contacting the hub before you've spanned the full diameter.

I have a clock in the garage. Measure your boost gauge and I'll dig mine out and measure it. Although, the fact that it's breaking your dash implies that it's too big. It was probably never in there. Yeah, your descriptive efforts have caused confusion. It sounded like you were trying to re-install the stock clock.

Is that a replica of an MM original part, or something Joe designed? You can really create some confusion when you try to adopt someone else's name.

Just curious, but what is this "adapter plate" that you got from Chequered Flag. His web site only shows parts for CV shafts, not rotors and brake parts. All inboard stuff, brakes are outboard. Except for the stub axles, which allow different wheel bolt patterns. You could install all of the CFJ stuff without changing any of the brake parts, and vice versa, I believe. http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html With that in mind, is your question about the brakes or about the CV shaft flange adapter? And, by the way, that "thinness" you're measuring is called a "diameter". You could go with "width" maybe, but "thin" is confusing.

Follow the path of the current. That was my point about measuring voltage in to the ignition switch. 5 volts at the coil with the key On isn't right. What is battery voltage? Could be that you killed the battery and you've been looking at the wrong things. Develop a problem-solving method. Your actions are random. Understand what's supposed to happen, starting with power from the battery, then test to see if those things are happening or not, step-by-step, toward the starter solenoid. Good luck,

You said the car was running okay before. Why would any of the stuff you've done affect the ignition switch? Manual or automatic?

It's a pressed in jet. Pop it out and install another.

If you have a manual transmission, I think that the power to the solenoid is a straight shot through the ignition switch and down to the yellow wire at the solenoid. That's why I asked. Either way though, manual or auto, you can check power at the ignition switch first. Easy to do, just take off the plastic panel, find the wire that heads off to the solenoid or the safety switches (probably a neutral lockout on the automatic), poke a probe in there and see what happens when you turn the key. You can also measure power to the switch. Then you'll have a better idea of what to fix. All you've described so far is "turn key, hear click, no engine turn over". Don't make it complicated, yet, do some testing first. On a full size computer, you would click on More Reply Options (a new window opens), then Choose File, then Attach This File. You can't cut and paste in the reply box.

Maybe over-simplifying but wouldn't drilling an extra hole in the camshaft give the same effect as the added spray bar? The holes in the stock camshaft are somewhat randomly placed. A person could pick a spot, maybe at the start of the ramp, to improve the odds of sufficient lubrication. Same increased volume, better placement of the oil. With that in mind, it might be useful to know where the hole is on the lobes that fail, assuming an internally oiled camshaft. Maybe there's a clue there.

You could also turn up the idle speed, using the idle adjustment screw. That lets in metered air so the engine will stay running. Then spray carb cleaner at various potential leak spots. Your EGR work is a prime suspect also.

Here's one version - http://www.apexi-usa.com/manuals/electronics/safc_manual.pdf Don't see the Z31 listed. Can't find any other version. http://www.apexi-usa.com/store/electronics/power-fc.html

Is this automatic or manual transmission? Automatics have other switches involved. Forgot to say, the starter circuit is one of the few that doesn't have its own diagram. You have to look at the big one.

You might be getting distracted by the removal of the harness with something that happened along the way. The EFI harness may not be the issue. Wiring diagrams look hard, but they're not really. The FSM has many small diagrams, in addition to the big one. Check the Body Electrical chapter and see how the starter solenoid gets its power. Then look at the places where the break in the circuit might be.

That wire actually powers the solenoid in the BCDD. There's no sensor in there. Did you take the BCDD off or apart while you were cleaning the throttle body? Sounds like a vacuum leak of some kind. A leaky BCDD might be the problem. Crank means engine turning over, or crankshaft spinning. Crank is what the starter does, it used to be done by a human with a crank handle, that's why people still say crank. After cranking comes ignition, then starting, then running.

The crazy (whatever that means) needle sounds like your reference port has turbulence or fluctuating vacuum. Try a different hole. Or you need a fuel pressure damper, like the stock setup. The math problems could either be bad gauges, bad/low resolution FPR, or the measurement ports for the FPR and the dash gauge are in different spots, seeing different things. Seems like you could run them both from a T at the same port. Just some thoughts. I don't have any of these things, but understand the concepts. The Walbro probably doesn't have anything to do with the problem. It just spins and pushes fuel.

If you know how to make it work, and you're just trying to get on the track, wouldn't a manual switch, or a separate relay work for you? Cut the wires or pop the pins to the contact and rewire.

Take one of the other gauges out and measure. You'll see how they come out and you'll know if the clock is too large. The Book says back.

Are you running batch fire, six at a time? My plain old NA stock EFI L6 has always had some degree of periodic miss. I can affect it by adjusting the mixture via fuel pressure or cooling temp. circuit resistance, or AFM idle bypass screw. Seems like very lean on the idle gives the least missing. In short, maybe it's not electronic, maybe it's idle mixture. The problem with batch fire at idle is that there are six different fuel timing scenarios, with each pair of cylinders getting fuel at a different time in one crankshaft rotation, and each individual in a pair alternating between two of those scenarios. It can hurt your head to ponder. Might be an inherent problem with EFI batch fire and why the manufacturers all use sequential at idle. Every miss is an emissions burp.

I'm far from expert myself. Just repeating odds and ends I've picked up. What's inside the fuel cell now? No baffles, or pickup system? Seems odd to build just a large rectangular steel box for fuel.

Your main concern with an unbaffled 240Z tank should be fuel starvation on corners. If the driver plans to drift it might be an issue. With a turbo engine it's an important issue. Proper baffling or the surge tank will solve that. Submersed pumps tend to be quieter than external. Might be nice.

Trust but verify. Old cold war saying. Ronald Reagan.