NewZed

A typical page in the FSM will show the simple diagram then a drawing of the wiring with connectors. Shapes and everything. Another sample. Included a page number. Can't go wrong at least taking one quick look at it. You might get hooked. It might be liberating. You can also use a meter to see which wire ends are connected to each other. Beware relays though.

Bunblebee's writeup is not really a tutorial, it's more of a primer to get you started. You need to get in to the stock wiring and control system diagrams, and test the circuits to be sure that things are connected as you think they should be. Attached an example of the ignition circuit.

Could be a bad PCV valve. Here's the basic concept.

Glad ti worked. The two missing bolts threw me. And I haven't looked at many so don't really know what's good and what's not. Carry on!

You didn't say you've only been chasing the clunk since yesterday. That's not very long. You also said that you tried to tighten the gland nut but didn't have the right spanner. But you're asking about the gland nut. Plus, you're asking if that nut in the picture needs to be tight. Sorry, it just seems like you haven't really thought through how the strut/shock assembly works. Could be that the shaft slid up when you jacked up the car. The gas-charged shocks keep the shaft extended. The nut itself looks cocked in the picture, like it's cross-threaded or too big for the shaft. Two bolts and not much meat around the strut mount looks like someone's home-made adjustable camber setup. Overall, it looks problem-prone. In the meantime though, that nut needs to be tight, to lock the top of the shaft to the strut mount. It could be your clunk. You might start a thread asking for opinions on that camber adjuster job, and how you can make it better. Might be fine, but it does look iffy.

It tightened itself? That's the nut that holds the shock shaft. It needs to be tight. Search "gland nut" on your favorite search engine and you can learn what one is.

As Pac_Man says, if you can connect the hard drive to a working computer with a newer operating system, it will probably let you copy the data. Search "bridge cable computer" on the internet, if you don't have a spot to install the hard drive in whatever other computer you have available. You can buy a cable that will power the drive and let it communicate.

Here's a link that has some good pictures. Not so sure of the method, but the pictures are good. Be careful with the lubricants. 3/4 down is the adjuster, click on them and they blow up. http://www.hammondsplains.com/newtechtips/brakes/77drum/

Just realized that there's an arm that moves the cog and another that holds it so it doesn't backup. Any of those parts could be jammed. Whatever works to get it free. Heat would make a difference and everything's metal so can't hurt. On lube, just a touch of high temperature stuff, like brake caliper lube, would work. You don't want it to drip on the drum.

Yes, take it completely off, unscrew it in to its two or three pieces, clean it, lube it up, make sure things move smoothly. It's a simple mechanism, but it has some fine details that have to be right. You might need to wire brush the grooves of the cog, and maybe the threads, both internal and external. If the edge of the action arm is dull, maybe take a file to it and put an edge back on it, on the correct face. It has to grab and move the cog teeth, then slide back over the top of it, to get ready for the next tooth. Before you take it off, watch how it's supposed to work and you'll see what you need to do. Of course, it's also possible that the teeth are just worn after so many hand brake pulls. Not sure if you can flip that cog over or not to get to new metal. Haven't had my brakes apart in a while.

There's really not much to them. The threads have to be free to move. You can take it apart, clean up the threads and lubricate them. And the little arm has to grab the teeth of the wheel/cog when you pull the hand brake.. Sometimes the teeth get clogged with brake dust. Take the adjuster off, and see how well it moves. If it needs cleaning, clean it. Did you try to adjust through the backing plate hole, or with the drum off? Easier to check everything out with the drum off. They probably just need a little maintenance. You said that you bought an adjuster, but can't find any? Which is it?

Didn't see your edit, edits don't show as new posts. What are these "o-rings"? You have fire ring on top of sealing ring? Maybe your o-ring material is too thick or it's designed to be used with a certain type of gasket. The head actually sits on top of either of those and the rest of the gasket only compresses as far the rings. You might be too high on the sealing area, whatever it is. Describe the ring, and the groove, and the sealing area, in general. Might help. Seems like you might have a mis-match there. I have not built any engines.

Which head, which block? What head or block or year is the gasket spec'ed to? And which coolant passages? There aren't that many.

I bet this guy would take $400 - http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/4966997149.html Maybe he'll deliver.

You could probably find a whole car for $500 or less, somewhere. That's why end up in the wrecking yards. Just a thought.

You might double-check your hub measurement, if Joe is going to use your number. It looks like your caliper body is contacting the hub before you've spanned the full diameter.

I have a clock in the garage. Measure your boost gauge and I'll dig mine out and measure it. Although, the fact that it's breaking your dash implies that it's too big. It was probably never in there. Yeah, your descriptive efforts have caused confusion. It sounded like you were trying to re-install the stock clock.

Is that a replica of an MM original part, or something Joe designed? You can really create some confusion when you try to adopt someone else's name.

Just curious, but what is this "adapter plate" that you got from Chequered Flag. His web site only shows parts for CV shafts, not rotors and brake parts. All inboard stuff, brakes are outboard. Except for the stub axles, which allow different wheel bolt patterns. You could install all of the CFJ stuff without changing any of the brake parts, and vice versa, I believe. http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html With that in mind, is your question about the brakes or about the CV shaft flange adapter? And, by the way, that "thinness" you're measuring is called a "diameter". You could go with "width" maybe, but "thin" is confusing.

Follow the path of the current. That was my point about measuring voltage in to the ignition switch. 5 volts at the coil with the key On isn't right. What is battery voltage? Could be that you killed the battery and you've been looking at the wrong things. Develop a problem-solving method. Your actions are random. Understand what's supposed to happen, starting with power from the battery, then test to see if those things are happening or not, step-by-step, toward the starter solenoid. Good luck,

You said the car was running okay before. Why would any of the stuff you've done affect the ignition switch? Manual or automatic?

It's a pressed in jet. Pop it out and install another.

If you have a manual transmission, I think that the power to the solenoid is a straight shot through the ignition switch and down to the yellow wire at the solenoid. That's why I asked. Either way though, manual or auto, you can check power at the ignition switch first. Easy to do, just take off the plastic panel, find the wire that heads off to the solenoid or the safety switches (probably a neutral lockout on the automatic), poke a probe in there and see what happens when you turn the key. You can also measure power to the switch. Then you'll have a better idea of what to fix. All you've described so far is "turn key, hear click, no engine turn over". Don't make it complicated, yet, do some testing first. On a full size computer, you would click on More Reply Options (a new window opens), then Choose File, then Attach This File. You can't cut and paste in the reply box.

Maybe over-simplifying but wouldn't drilling an extra hole in the camshaft give the same effect as the added spray bar? The holes in the stock camshaft are somewhat randomly placed. A person could pick a spot, maybe at the start of the ramp, to improve the odds of sufficient lubrication. Same increased volume, better placement of the oil. With that in mind, it might be useful to know where the hole is on the lobes that fail, assuming an internally oiled camshaft. Maybe there's a clue there.

You could also turn up the idle speed, using the idle adjustment screw. That lets in metered air so the engine will stay running. Then spray carb cleaner at various potential leak spots. Your EGR work is a prime suspect also.