NewZed

The OReilly site will pull up some options for you - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Fuel+Pump/C0401/C0025.oap?year=1983&make=Nissan&model=280ZX&vi=1209428&redirectkeyword=fuel+pump I've had the Airtex E8312 in my car for about 40,000 miles. No issues.Just use the rubber wisely to isolate it from any metal, for noise avoidance. Didn't really look at your picture. Maybe you want an internal pump. By the way, there's something odd about your pictures, they won't expand when clicked on. Maybe they're too big.

But you're leaving out all of the cost of enlarging the seat area for bigger valve seats for the bigger valves. He already has an N47 also. Plus the realignment of the cam towers, hoping that they work, moving the valve train over, etc. I don't see why anyone would use an E31 on an L28 unless they had to. Just not making sense. How much does that bump in CR buy you, and is it usable on pump gas? He's "not building a high performance engine, just close to stock and reliable." Post #3. Your advice might be good, but it's off-target. He's not building a race engine.

You should start a new thread. Nothing worse than finding a bunch of clutter at the end of an FAQ thread. The FAQ's are supposed to "all killer, no filler". Not frequently asked questions answered over and over again.

So, basically, you're going to spend a lot of money to avoid having liners in the exhaust ports? I'd source an N42 head, send it to Slover and be lots of money ahead. Same end result, much cheaper. If you have the pile of parts, piecing together valves and castings with machine work might make sense. But the N42 is already there.

Put the shoes and springs together off of the backing plate, on a bench or the floor. Fold the shoes toward you like closing an open book, keeping the springs in their holes, using the springs like hinges. Place the various contact points of the shoes and mounting areas of the backing plate together and push the shows flat like opening a book. The springs will stretch as the shoe ends get pushed apart. Use one hand or a helper or a rope or string or bungee cord to hold them in place while you insert the pins from behind and lock them down. Can't remember but I think that you might be able to mount the adjuster between the shoes after the shoes are mounted, or hold it in between the shoes before you place them on the backing plate. Anyway, if you try it, the fine details will fall in to place..

He said that he thought the E31 head was worked on. The N47 already has the bigger valves. Why not just have the N47 head worked on? The exhaust liners? Is it exhaust or intake where the L heads are restrictive? Tony D mentions E31 mythology, is there much to be gained with the E31? I would assume he will use carbs so my brain says drop the L28 in, unmolested, and spend the time and money on getting the carbs tuned right, if they're even the right carbs for a bigger engine. 17% more displacement, with an engine that should be good for another 100K miles. The Nissan factory really seemed to do a great job on putting these engines together. Thank Deming.

Without that piece (which I would call a "rest" or "stand-off" or similar, just saying. I think of "stoppers" as things a the end of motion, not the beginning. Not that it really matters.), the adjustment arm will be in the wrong position to turn the wheel. Wasted movement with no adjustment happening. It's important.

You could always put it all together and see how the missing piece affects operation. Since you have things apart. That would be interesting.

Two wrongs? Notice the parentheses in your link. Anyway, most parts on critical components, like brakes, are there for good reason. I'd put it back to the way they designed it.

Seems like it could affect operation. It positions the lever at rest, and doesn't allow the adjust to travel too far. You could probably fabricate one pretty easily. And it's just a hand brake, mostly for parking. Or limping home. Have you ever tried to stop the car with it, at any speed at all? Just a distraction in an emergency.

Why are you calling it a "stopper", whatever it is? Hard to tell what you mean. Can you find the part on the attached picture? I picked 1976 because that's the car I have. Although my rear brakes are 78. They're different. What are you working with?

The throttle linkage just pops apart. It's a ball and socket connection. Get big screwdriver, position it between the pieces, and twist. You might consider some type of load leveling device, either self-made or bought. The transmission has a lot of leverage on the back of the package.

Read Post #9 - welded - and look at these threads and web site. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/78123-subaru-wrx-sti-r180-side-axles/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/93316-subaru-wrx-sti-r180-side-axles-part-deux/ http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=22:tranny-a-rear-diff-parts&catid=16:tranny-a-rear-diff-parts&Itemid=31

Advice - cut the plug from the old external regulator and do your splices there. It will look cleaner and you can go back easier if you decide to. And you will need the diode.

Can't get much cheaper and simpler than swapping some different wheels on and going for a drive.

Post what you've seen so you don't have to see it again.

Why would a new post on "the forums" be better than an old post on "the forums"? Aside from that, the ZX propeller shafts are all different lengths than Z propeller shafts. So you'll have to have whatever you get cut to length. According to the FSM, the NA propeller shafts are identical, manual to auto. Same part number. But the L28ET uses its own shaft. My impression has been that the slip yokes are different. Borg Warner and Nissan spline counts and shaft diameters are different. If you have the parts, which it looks like you do, you could measure and count. Or take the BW trans. with you when you pick up the diffs. Or count and measure the BW, then count and measure the propeller shaft. Or take pictures and compare. I wrote all that stuff then realized you only asked about the "auto diff". Which doesn't really have anything at all to do with the 5 speed B/W. Good luck.

Is it still at 80 mph? That's some high speed cruising. Just 80 or 80 and above? People have been known to temporarily swap their custom wheels for a set of stock steel rims just to see if the wheels are the problem.

You might measure the head height just to know more about what you have. Seems odd that a well-known engine builder would build an odd engine like what you describe. Could be that the heads been milled and everything is actually as it should be. And, as Tony D says, even if it is the low CR blend, it will run. Someone did that on another forum just to get a usable engine so that they could sell a car. Same combination, except it was the stock N42 block and dished pistons. Said it ran great, although they'd never had a good-running engine before so may not know "great", using the stock 280Z EFI system. You can always swap it later if it's a dog. Your real decision looks to be between money spent on pistons and rings, or milling the P79 and replacing valves, or buying another head.

Is the E31 head modified with bigger valves? Seems like the stock N47 head would be the way to go. 100,000 on an L28 doesn't seem like a lot. Is there even a reason to take it apart? Not an expert, just asking.

The first picture looks technically right. It doesn't show that there are two wires to connect for power at Start and On, but that should be figurable. Also, if you leave the ballast resistor in place, it might be useful as a terminal block, instead of trying to attach a bunch of wires to the coil terminals. Move the wire that passes through the resistor over to the terminal connected to the coil. Just leave the condenser if it's still good, it won't hurt and it might help. Make sure the distributor body is well-grounded, that's where the E12-80 grounds. Don't forget to disconnect the stock ignition module, and insulate the wire ends so that they don't short. There seem to be several solutions to the MSD and tach problem. Hard to tell which is best. Check for power to the proper places, and grounds,with the key On, before you start the engine. If you're worried about shorting a wire, just check it for power before connecting to anything, and check that where you're attaching it isn't grounded. There really shouldn't be any surprises unless you like gambling.

The whirring noise that goes away when you press the clutch is normal. But the metal fragments are not. Those pieces look like bearing retainer, not race, so the balls may still be wear they're supposed to be. I've only seen one failed bearing and it was in the adapter plate. Regardless, you might be able to save the transmission by replacing the bearing before it fails completely. It may not grenade but the misalignment will cause damage.

You might be able to thread a 1/2" NPT fitting in there, but that's not the design spec. FYI.

I don't think that Nissan ever used SAE threads. Metric or BSPT all the way from what I understand. The dripping JB weld makes one think that you may have realized something was off.

What is "fire depth"? There's already a ton out there on the ZX distributor swap. Here's one - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html There's also a ton on the MSD ignition, how to connect it, and problems with the tachometer. Your posts are full of weird phrases like "stock blaster resistor". Which means you're probably on a phone, using auto-correct spelling. Which means you're not using the full capabilities of the internet, because your phone screen is too tiny. Best to find a computer with a big screen and do some study. Nobody really wants to be your portal to the full-size web.