NewZed

Why are you calling it a "stopper", whatever it is? Hard to tell what you mean. Can you find the part on the attached picture? I picked 1976 because that's the car I have. Although my rear brakes are 78. They're different. What are you working with?

The throttle linkage just pops apart. It's a ball and socket connection. Get big screwdriver, position it between the pieces, and twist. You might consider some type of load leveling device, either self-made or bought. The transmission has a lot of leverage on the back of the package.

Read Post #9 - welded - and look at these threads and web site. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/78123-subaru-wrx-sti-r180-side-axles/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/93316-subaru-wrx-sti-r180-side-axles-part-deux/ http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=22:tranny-a-rear-diff-parts&catid=16:tranny-a-rear-diff-parts&Itemid=31

Advice - cut the plug from the old external regulator and do your splices there. It will look cleaner and you can go back easier if you decide to. And you will need the diode.

Can't get much cheaper and simpler than swapping some different wheels on and going for a drive.

Post what you've seen so you don't have to see it again.

Why would a new post on "the forums" be better than an old post on "the forums"? Aside from that, the ZX propeller shafts are all different lengths than Z propeller shafts. So you'll have to have whatever you get cut to length. According to the FSM, the NA propeller shafts are identical, manual to auto. Same part number. But the L28ET uses its own shaft. My impression has been that the slip yokes are different. Borg Warner and Nissan spline counts and shaft diameters are different. If you have the parts, which it looks like you do, you could measure and count. Or take the BW trans. with you when you pick up the diffs. Or count and measure the BW, then count and measure the propeller shaft. Or take pictures and compare. I wrote all that stuff then realized you only asked about the "auto diff". Which doesn't really have anything at all to do with the 5 speed B/W. Good luck.

Is it still at 80 mph? That's some high speed cruising. Just 80 or 80 and above? People have been known to temporarily swap their custom wheels for a set of stock steel rims just to see if the wheels are the problem.

You might measure the head height just to know more about what you have. Seems odd that a well-known engine builder would build an odd engine like what you describe. Could be that the heads been milled and everything is actually as it should be. And, as Tony D says, even if it is the low CR blend, it will run. Someone did that on another forum just to get a usable engine so that they could sell a car. Same combination, except it was the stock N42 block and dished pistons. Said it ran great, although they'd never had a good-running engine before so may not know "great", using the stock 280Z EFI system. You can always swap it later if it's a dog. Your real decision looks to be between money spent on pistons and rings, or milling the P79 and replacing valves, or buying another head.

Is the E31 head modified with bigger valves? Seems like the stock N47 head would be the way to go. 100,000 on an L28 doesn't seem like a lot. Is there even a reason to take it apart? Not an expert, just asking.

The first picture looks technically right. It doesn't show that there are two wires to connect for power at Start and On, but that should be figurable. Also, if you leave the ballast resistor in place, it might be useful as a terminal block, instead of trying to attach a bunch of wires to the coil terminals. Move the wire that passes through the resistor over to the terminal connected to the coil. Just leave the condenser if it's still good, it won't hurt and it might help. Make sure the distributor body is well-grounded, that's where the E12-80 grounds. Don't forget to disconnect the stock ignition module, and insulate the wire ends so that they don't short. There seem to be several solutions to the MSD and tach problem. Hard to tell which is best. Check for power to the proper places, and grounds,with the key On, before you start the engine. If you're worried about shorting a wire, just check it for power before connecting to anything, and check that where you're attaching it isn't grounded. There really shouldn't be any surprises unless you like gambling.

The whirring noise that goes away when you press the clutch is normal. But the metal fragments are not. Those pieces look like bearing retainer, not race, so the balls may still be wear they're supposed to be. I've only seen one failed bearing and it was in the adapter plate. Regardless, you might be able to save the transmission by replacing the bearing before it fails completely. It may not grenade but the misalignment will cause damage.

You might be able to thread a 1/2" NPT fitting in there, but that's not the design spec. FYI.

I don't think that Nissan ever used SAE threads. Metric or BSPT all the way from what I understand. The dripping JB weld makes one think that you may have realized something was off.

What is "fire depth"? There's already a ton out there on the ZX distributor swap. Here's one - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html There's also a ton on the MSD ignition, how to connect it, and problems with the tachometer. Your posts are full of weird phrases like "stock blaster resistor". Which means you're probably on a phone, using auto-correct spelling. Which means you're not using the full capabilities of the internet, because your phone screen is too tiny. Best to find a computer with a big screen and do some study. Nobody really wants to be your portal to the full-size web.

Weird. I said the same thing, with an easier path to the information. Too many words in my posts, I guess. We're both repeating things that have been said 100's of time though. The internet's a strange pace.

You have an interesting problem, from a couple of views. One is that the regulator is not Nissan, therefore wire colors are probably irrelevant. I would use wire position in the plug. Another is that the form of the regulator indicates that it's probably one of the solid sate, or electronic, replacement parts. From what I've read, they're fragile and fail often. If i was looking at those parts, trying to decide if I should put the time in to making them work, I'd probably decide to just wire up an internally regulated alternator. You said it's bare-bones, so all you need is S, L, charge, and ground for an internal alternator. Or I'd figure out how to make the parts work, but not put the time in to actually doing it. But if you do decide to hook it up, and it's the right replacement part for your year and model of car (Google the number), wire position in the plug is the way to go.

Can't figure out what, exactly, you're looking for.

Probably here somewhere. I'd try a file with the word Electrical in the name. http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals

How much thread sticks through? You could put the nut on, then put two thin jam nuts on top. Jam them to hold the shaft while you torque the lower nut. You'll have to torque by feel though. You could also grind two flats on the top of the shaft and use a thin open end to hold the shaft while you tighten the nut.

Interesting. I would think that the 80's Maxima would use something like the 80's ZX's. I thought that it would look like this F54 manifold (right), compared to a 280Z N42 manifold. Good to know.

If you're new to the old Z EFI system, the fastest way to get them running well, ironically, is to spend the time to go through all of the tests in the Engine Fuel chapter, or the Fuel Injection Guidebook, and give it a Tuneup to spec., before playing with anything. The playing usually just screws things up. The hunt and peck method never works. All of the components and their connections need to be in proper working order. Once you have fixed them all and know they're right, then you can make the minor tweaks to compensate for old parts, or modern fuel.

Read it through twice and it looks like you missed the opportunity to correct the initial simple communication error, and confirmed that you wanted a barbed rail.. Then Pallnet bent over backwards to be a nice guy, paid for your communication mistake (which is clear in the Feb. 5 & 6 e-mails), and gave you the money to start over. You have to pay the time for your error. It says "barb" three times in the list of options that you confirmed, and in your Paypal message. You should have corrected the mistake before you sent the Paypal money.

So you're really asking how much advance the ECCS adds, for 82 vs. 83. I've wondered myself about the timing curves with the computer controlled cars. The descriptions in the FSM are vague, even for later model Nissans. No numbers provided.

Implies that there are short struts with 280Z bearings and axles. Interesting. Found a reference - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ "240s have the weakest stub axles with a smaller diameter 25 spline shaft. 260s got the 240 stubs for the first part of production, then later got the 280s 27 spline shafts. T" Also found this - "280 stub axles can be installed in 240 struts with no modifications and the wheel bearings and seals are the same in both cases. This upgrades the inner part of the shaft from 25 to 27 spline." but I thought that the outer race dimension was different. Now I'm confused. Must be the inner flange that's different and not interchangeable. Looks like you're covered, good luck.