NewZed

It's pretty easy on the early 280Z's, I've done it on both sides of my 76 with glass in place. You can't see what you're doing, so memory of what you were just looking at is required. But 78 has the newer door style. Might be more cramped.

You might also measure pressure with the FPR not installed. Just to be sure there's not something blocking the ports. The FPR is just a pressure relief valve. If you don't have some monster fuel pump pushing so much fuel it can't bleed off pressure, it should work if the flow paths are clear.

Don't forget to check the gauge.

Read BRAAP's EFI tips here, along with the other threads - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/ You won't get much bang for the buck with what you're planning for the engine. The ZX transmission with the 3.9 will have a better gear spread than what the 78 has. If ti started and ran fine, it probably was fine. Might be best to just get a new HG and put it back together. The stock Datsun parts are of high quality, even used, compared to much of the "rebuild" parts you'll find. A bore means all new pistons and rings, for no real benefit. A hone means new rings, for what, if it ran fine? The first three things, and the exhaust system will add some pep, the rest, not much. You can do those with the stock EFI system. Many would say that getting a modern EFI system, like Megasquirt, and keeping the the stock engine, would be more worthwhile than the engine mods you describe.

There's a check valve in the pump. They fail sometimes. Crimp the supply line before it leaks down and see what happens. You didn't say anything about what the pressure was before you replaced the FPR but the fact that fuel dribbles from the FPR instead of flowing could mean that the FPR is blocked or defective. If you knew what it was before it would give a pretty clue about blockage versus FPR. Some aftermarket FPR's can be connected backwards and will give full fuel pump pressure in the rail if that's done. I'm not familiar with the Z31 fuel system in general beyond the basics, besides the fact there are 6 years worth of them. There may be differences. Give some details on yours. Think in terms of pressure instead of flow direction. Pressure works backward too.

Compare the distance from the mounting surface to the rod contact surface between the two cylinders when you do the replacement.

It flowed backward, from whence it came, when the fuel pump stopped spinning.

The fuel probably went back the way it came.

That has happened to others. You can use a screwdriver if you're handy, to press the valve down and slip the rocker arm back in. Make sure the piston is down and the cam lobe is on the base circle. It's described on page 86 of Monroe's "How to Modify" book, if you have it. Or you can search around the internet, there's probably a video somewhere. The L4's (510's) have the same rocker arms.

It can be caused by an exhaust leak and extra fuel. The missing ignition (if you're lucky, it's an ignition problem, could be a cam lobe) on one cylinder is probably passing unburned fuel, the exhaust leak supplies oxygen. The P79 exhaust liners are designed to burn any fuel that exits the cylinder. One possibility. Is it still EFI? P79 on N42 is not stock. What else has been modified? Best to just get it running on all six first. You can pull injector connectors to find the dead cylinder.

I read the diagram and explanation as 27% of the base pulse is added on top of the other correction factors. So by getting coolant correction back in to the equation, you lose fuel enrichment as the engine warms up compared to no coolant correction. If the diagram is approximately to scale, that's a lot of fuel.

If the CTS was disconnected it was richer everywhere. Now it is leaner everywhere. That's just how the system works. Your nose may not know but it's happening. Unless you tweaked the AFM back and are working off AFR gauge numbers. It's a crude system you've got there, good luck with it.

Warning - do not watch this video right after watching zredbaron's video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Dj6LUXdn4E&feature=youtu.be&t=2m10s from here - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/24798-na-31lhead-camshaft-questions-no-shortcuts-max/page-12 It will hurt your brain. How long have you had the car? Could be several things, in addition to what bjhines said, causing backfiring. I think some people call what yours did, "after fire". Fuel in the exhaust system lighting off.

In your other thread the guys were implying that you had ring damage due to detonation. Detonation is much more likely now that you've removed the super rich condition.

A typical page in the FSM will show the simple diagram then a drawing of the wiring with connectors. Shapes and everything. Another sample. Included a page number. Can't go wrong at least taking one quick look at it. You might get hooked. It might be liberating. You can also use a meter to see which wire ends are connected to each other. Beware relays though.

Bunblebee's writeup is not really a tutorial, it's more of a primer to get you started. You need to get in to the stock wiring and control system diagrams, and test the circuits to be sure that things are connected as you think they should be. Attached an example of the ignition circuit.

Could be a bad PCV valve. Here's the basic concept.

Glad ti worked. The two missing bolts threw me. And I haven't looked at many so don't really know what's good and what's not. Carry on!

You didn't say you've only been chasing the clunk since yesterday. That's not very long. You also said that you tried to tighten the gland nut but didn't have the right spanner. But you're asking about the gland nut. Plus, you're asking if that nut in the picture needs to be tight. Sorry, it just seems like you haven't really thought through how the strut/shock assembly works. Could be that the shaft slid up when you jacked up the car. The gas-charged shocks keep the shaft extended. The nut itself looks cocked in the picture, like it's cross-threaded or too big for the shaft. Two bolts and not much meat around the strut mount looks like someone's home-made adjustable camber setup. Overall, it looks problem-prone. In the meantime though, that nut needs to be tight, to lock the top of the shaft to the strut mount. It could be your clunk. You might start a thread asking for opinions on that camber adjuster job, and how you can make it better. Might be fine, but it does look iffy.

It tightened itself? That's the nut that holds the shock shaft. It needs to be tight. Search "gland nut" on your favorite search engine and you can learn what one is.

As Pac_Man says, if you can connect the hard drive to a working computer with a newer operating system, it will probably let you copy the data. Search "bridge cable computer" on the internet, if you don't have a spot to install the hard drive in whatever other computer you have available. You can buy a cable that will power the drive and let it communicate.

Here's a link that has some good pictures. Not so sure of the method, but the pictures are good. Be careful with the lubricants. 3/4 down is the adjuster, click on them and they blow up. http://www.hammondsplains.com/newtechtips/brakes/77drum/

Just realized that there's an arm that moves the cog and another that holds it so it doesn't backup. Any of those parts could be jammed. Whatever works to get it free. Heat would make a difference and everything's metal so can't hurt. On lube, just a touch of high temperature stuff, like brake caliper lube, would work. You don't want it to drip on the drum.

Yes, take it completely off, unscrew it in to its two or three pieces, clean it, lube it up, make sure things move smoothly. It's a simple mechanism, but it has some fine details that have to be right. You might need to wire brush the grooves of the cog, and maybe the threads, both internal and external. If the edge of the action arm is dull, maybe take a file to it and put an edge back on it, on the correct face. It has to grab and move the cog teeth, then slide back over the top of it, to get ready for the next tooth. Before you take it off, watch how it's supposed to work and you'll see what you need to do. Of course, it's also possible that the teeth are just worn after so many hand brake pulls. Not sure if you can flip that cog over or not to get to new metal. Haven't had my brakes apart in a while.

There's really not much to them. The threads have to be free to move. You can take it apart, clean up the threads and lubricate them. And the little arm has to grab the teeth of the wheel/cog when you pull the hand brake.. Sometimes the teeth get clogged with brake dust. Take the adjuster off, and see how well it moves. If it needs cleaning, clean it. Did you try to adjust through the backing plate hole, or with the drum off? Easier to check everything out with the drum off. They probably just need a little maintenance. You said that you bought an adjuster, but can't find any? Which is it?