NewZed

That seems to be the method. The number is out there somewhere, I've seen it. If you post your number someone can probably tell you if it's shaved.

I thought that the clutch-type didn't need the other axle to generate torque. It's generated from the diff housing to the axle through the clutch. Pretty sure that I have read of people being glad that they had the diff when they broke an axle because they could still get the car on to the trailer. Various descriptions around the internet about how the Torsen type has the one wheel-in-the air problem (tap the brakes). Nobody mentions that with the clutch type. Always looking to learn something. Trying to keep my head straight.

I thought that jmortensen had shown that maximum shaft compression was with the car raised? Maximum droop? Took me a while to figure out how it could be, but it seems possible now that I know (the axle flange does not follow the same arc as the control arm). He actually measured it so had real numbers. Raising the car should increase binding.

The revving up issue or the keeps running issue? If you swapped but had the diode backward you'd get the "need to rev before charging" issue. You have two things happening. Actually you'd also get the keeps running issue if the diode was backward. But the fact that you swapped them means you're not sure which is which. Obviously not 100%. Check the diagram I posted, if you can see it.

You shouldn't be so confident. The facts of the situation say that you have the diode on the wrong wire. You could have checked. But you're on a phone. L.

Pretty sure. Take the shaft off on the side with less space, driver's side (I think), and run it. If the noise goes away, the passenger side was binding. Worst case, the car doesn't go anywhere.

With a CLSD you should be able to take one shaft off and drive it. I think.

Can you be more descriptive than "continuous clunking"? If it sounds the same at 10 mph as at 60, that's different than going from a clunk at 10 to grinding at 60.

Actually, 77 - 79 is the year range of 5 speed that has the same 1 - 4 ratios as the 75 - 77 4 speeds ( I think a 4 speed was also an option for 78 - 79). I was under the impression that the 5 speed is essentially the same as the 4 speed, with the 5th gear an engineered-in addition. So it would depend on the year of the "very good 4 speed", which wasn't mentioned. Ratios changed in 1975 (maybe late 74 with the body change), 1980, then again in 1981. Mastering the trivia...

I was just pointing some things out. If the moderators were disturbed they would have moved your thread. So, are you saying that, as of right now, somebody can buy one of these for $700? The development work is done? One buyer and a diff for the R200 happens? Or one buyer and development starts? Is there a minimum number of buyers required to get things started?. Just trying to get a clear picture. The details aren't there.

You're not going to have 6 injectors go bad at the same time. It's not your injectors. Check for power to the injectors first. Does the tachometer work? Is the resistor in place on the blue wire to the tach? Is there power to the ECU? Check for power to the places that need power. The EFI (injection) system is separate from the ignition system, but it does use the coil negative terminal to determine when to inject. Search on "Pin 1". Don't forget to confirm power to the fuel pump also. There's a fuel pump control relay on the 78's that uses one of two possible signals to keep power on. Described in Engine Fuel chapter, I believe. Along with a bunch of tests. Also, try to keep your logic straight. You're mixing some things up that just can't be, like engine starting with no spark. Only diesels do that. "it would fire, then immediately die. No matter how many times I tried, same thing fire then die almost as soon as it fired off. So I ran back through spark,fuel and air. I wasn't getting any spark from the coil. "

I think that johnc might be letting you go on your merry way, since he gave you the clues and you didn't really use them. Here's a link to what he was talking about in Post #5. Hope you don't mind John. https://www.facebook.com/pages/BetaMotorsports-LLC/143989191670 Go down to March 5, 2014. People shorten their half-shafts when they put the R200 in a 240Z. But the 280Z's were designed for the R200.

Actually, it could be a hybrid engine. Some people think the L24 crank with L28 bore makes for better high RPM performance. Back to measuring stroke. http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/41844-long-short-stroke.html Post #4. And here. He's built several. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39741-new-engine/ I'm just throwing ideas out there.

P30 is a red herring....

Bore is easy. 83 or 86 mm. Even if you got an L24 with a P79 head you might be okay if no valves have hit on the way by the edge.

I don't know the block code on the Maxima L24's. Probably the same as the ZX's, it's just a block, bored to size. L24E with a P79 head? I don't know L24 cranks either. Measure the stroke and you'll know more if nobody posts in the mean time. Measure the bore too.

Maybe it's a Maxima L24E engine - http://community.ratsun.net/topic/26115-help-crankshaft-part-n%C2%BA/

This is why the FSM is useful. There's a troubleshooting chart in most of the chapters. One of your basic problems here though is that you're not giving any specific information. "Checked" means different things to different people. You might just be wiggling a wire. At least check, by measuring, voltage at the coil with the key on. Find the important relays and listen for action when you turn the key on. Stuff like that. One click then nothing is typical of dirty battery cable connections. And you can jump the solenoid with the key off, so that fact alone doesn't tell much. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

Bad fuel? It happens. You forgot to mention your age and ethnicity/nationality.

If they were "all good" the engine would start. Therefore, at least one is not good. The quick test for EFI is starting fluid. If the engine starts, there's a fuel supply problem. If it doesn't, probably a spark problem, Assuming nothing major, like holes in pistons. Typically, a random number things will be examined in random order until something is found, Best to test a specific set of things in a specific order.

The Engine Fuel chapter of the FSM will explain why you don't hear the fuel pump. And a whole bunch of other stuff too. "Looking" at electrical stuff is not a good way to determine quality. ...clue...battery cable connections...multimeter...Engine Electrical...

There's a problem-solving principle known as "first principles". Go to the basics. Spark, fuel, timing, etc. Check for spark. Then get all Boolean on it.

I would use a 280ZX oil pan.

Pop that cap off. This is like guessing horse teeth.

There are two functions combined in the alternator - production and regulation. You might have a regulator problem. Could be shorting.