NewZed

Looks like some posts might have got disappeared this morning. Setting a benchmark.

The page doesn't reset to the thread being posted to after posting, it just stays on the Reply page. Leading to multiple posts.

Thanks.

But they don't have to. It's just easier. They shouldn't have called that input option "VR In". It's kind of misleading and limiting. From Post #7 - For a V3.57, you'd have to remove a lot of parts to use the Hall / optical input, so we'll just bring this in through the VR conditioner instead. The problem for many with MS is that you really need to know a little bit about electronics to get through the literature. Or just be a really good reader/comprehender. Even then you have to make some of your own decisions for your own system. Seems like a lot of fun though, from a project building view. The OP never really said what stock system he was using anyway.

Hope it works out for you. There's a lot of wrong info in their web site copy, like most of the transmission parts shops. http://www.midwesttrans.com/fs5w71.html#partslist Take Advantage of Our Expertise with the FS5W71The FS5W71 is a five speed, RWD or 4WD transmission. The FS5W71 is Peugeot design, split-case aluminum design, This unit has tapered bearings except for the rear mainshaft and rear countershaft bearings. Syncro rings in the FS5W71 are aluminum ring/pin assemblies, the outer plates are part of the forward speed gears. The FS5W71 was used by Nissan in 1974 -1997. Select this link to see what models used this 5 Speed transmission. 240SX Frontier 280SX Pathfinder

Those would be the check balls, I believe. For neutral location? I think I figured out at one time that the interlock balls ride on the rods and get pushed in to a location on the adapter plate when the rod moves, locking out the other rod from movement, since there's only room for one ball. Or something like that. It was a puzzle. Anyway, the problem is probably in that area. Could just be that the fluid level is low, or old and gummy, or both. Maybe a fluid change and top-up would help.

Heroez has dropped off the face of the Z planet. You should start a new thread.

Aren't the interlock balls in the adapter plate what allows only one gear selection at a time? Banging gears, bad lubrication and general use/abuse wears the balls and their locations, apparently. It's one of the things to check and replace when rebuilding a transmission, I think, although I don't know that it's described in the FSM.

NA is VR. Turbo is optical, LED through slits. Pictures... Here's MS advice - http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/pickups.htm

I saved a couple of links about the use of the 25 spline ZX axles in the 240Z struts. You'll have to read through to figure out the details, their focus was on the 4 bolt turbo CV axles. But I think that the 6 bolt (3x2) NA CV axles also use a 25 spline axle, just a different companion flange. http://www.zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/HalfShaft.html http://alteredz.com/240ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm

You're at zero? The picture's at EM-20 in the 1982 book.

The MSD 6530 is wired for a MAP sensor. So you can program it for "vacuum" (lower pressure than atmospheric) advance if you buy a MAP sensor and wire it in to the MSD box. Just to tie up a loose end. If you read around the web world you'll find that confusion follows all of the MSD programmable boxes. MSD is like the sterotypical group of engineers, excellent technology just no ability to explain how to actually use it. They must be leaving big money in sales on the table. A simple re-write of their instructions and some better ad copy and they could sell a ton of the programmable units. From a business standpoint it's kind of incredible, that they could see the need, develop the product, then fail to get the word out to potential buyers. And never go back to fix it despite years of feedback. Another downside to the MSD is a MAP failure. Pros and cons. https://www.msdignition.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19572

Found this video on John Coffey's new Betamotorsports Facebook page. Shows about how much oil flows through an internally oiled cam while spinning. It's not squirting, just bubbling up like black gold. For those worried about whether they have oil flow or not. Pop the valve cover and spin.

It can use one though. For Boost Retard. That's where it's easy to get mixed up. In "absolute" terms, "boost" is anything above zero pressure (literal vacuum). We all live under ~14.5 pounds of boost. Keeping the distributor vacuum advance defeats the purpose of the 123 programmable ignition.

Actually, back to #10 and #11, you should never have 12 volts on the red, if it's disconnected from the module. Are you measuring with the wires disconnected as shown in the FSM? If they're connected to the module when you measure you'll get funky results because you'll also be measuring components inside the module.

It is possible to seal the leaks in the back of the car so that no fumes can enter. Just to give you hope. A large leak that often gets missed is the vinyl covered trim board on the bottom inside of the hatch. Seal the edges of that piece all the way around (stick-on weather strip from Home Depot works) and any fumes that enter the hatch framework, through the drain holes or the latch mechanism area, will not be able to enter the car. After that the only other seal is around the perimeter of the hatch, the factory weatherstripping. You can usually eye-ball the seal area and see if it's making contact, along with using the dollar bill trick.

You're right, that would work assuming the instructions on the MSD site are correct. I've never understood why they don't do a better job of explaining absolute pressure versus atmospheric pressure. It's hard to understand if they really understand what they're selling. How does the MSD unit handle starting timing? MAP pressure will be atmospheric until the engine cranks then will jump to low pressure, advancing timing. Unless the MAP sensor is on ported vacuum. (Actually I see that you covered that in the other thread, with high retard at low RPM). Is the software easy to use? It looks like an option, but you'll still have an old distributor, that you have to modify. So, the 123 option gives you a new ready-to-use distributor for $100, basically. On the other hand, MSD gives MSD, with a stronger spark. Seems like it's down to ease of install with 123 versus a few extra benefits with MSD. A good alternative though. Edit - You can download the MSD software here and try it out, the download is near the bottom of the page, Pro-Data+ software - http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Ignitions/6530_-_MSD_Digital_Programmable_6AL-2.aspx Have to say it's not pleasant. But you do get the satisfaction of solving a difficult problem.

They tend to get gummed up. Careful application of carb cleaner will fix them. Resistance across the pins to the internal heater is about 60 ohms it you want to check for electrical breakage.

You should be able to throttle any engine down until it dies using the "throttle". Throttle, strangle, suffocate, keep the air out and the engine can't run. If you can't you have an intake leak somewhere, as noted above, or the throttle body needs adjusting. Even the idle bypass on an L6 throttle body will let the engine rev high if it's cranked open.

You should be measuring resistance at red and green. Page EE-31. The weird thing about transistors is that they can show voltage, but won't have significant current flow. I don't know if 12 volts at red is normal or not. But the resistance through the pickup coil circuit is important. The flow path would be red wire from pickup in distributor to terminal on fender well through ignition module in cabin then back to terminal on fender well and back to distributor's green wire (some reman's use two blue wires from the distributor, green and red on the inside though). That's the trigger for the module. Then The blue wire connected to the coil negative and the module makes and breaks the circuit based on the signal in those two wires. Easy to get lost in there. That's why the diagram is handy. There are other simple tests you can run while you're in there.

Would you start this project from scratch knowing what you know now?

Progress. Don't forget to check the blue wire. It needs to be connected to the coil negative at one end and the ignition module at the other. The wiring diagram in the Engine Electrical chapter would help. Other wires that need to be connected to the module are the red and green wires from the distributor. That's where they go after the terminal on the fender well.

Of course, you've checked for power at the pump and know that it only has power when the engine is running or the key is at Start. Then jumped power to the pump just to be sure you're not wasting your time. If so, time for a new pump. Several options out there, many opinions.

There probably is but it's just not injecting from the injectors. Loosen a hose clamp on the fuel system after cranking for a little while and see if anything squirts out. Have a rag handy and no open flames or lit cigarettes.

The only outer shaft in that area that has a bushing is called the spindle pin. Here's an option, or you can buy a new one. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116959-58th-bolt-option-for-spindle-pin-replacement/