NewZed

What did you do to get it to fire? Are you saying that you had a bad ground?

CZCC.com has wiring diagrams and FSM's The FSM chapters typically have a smaller diagram specific to each area. I'd look through those. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/ Of course, you can also examine the wires at your shift linkage and the switches on your transmission. Here's a site I like to use to see which parts go where. Look under Powertrain and/or Electrical. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978

Tach input is the CAS signal. Tachometer is just a meter that measures engine speed, which is what the CAS does. You didn't confirm power to the coils yet. You have to have power to the coils. Power AT the coils is not provided by the Megasquirt system. Megasquirt provides and controls the grounding of the power. Look down at the bottom of this picture where I scribbled. https://www.msextra.com/doc/general/ms2external.html

Coil power typically comes through a fused switched circuit. The Megasquirt system grounds the circuit to control the spark but the power to the coils can come from anywhere. You might browse some of the wiring diagrams on the DIYAutotune site or see what you can find on Hybridz to see how people power their COP systems. I haven't used one so don't know if there is central point from which the coil leads split or if each one has its own circuit. Follow your COP wires back and see what's missing. I did a Google and found a few things. The first one uses the same words I did, so I might be on to something. There's probably a wire from your harness that you need to connect to switched power. http://www.megamanual.com/seq/coils.htm

Sorry, but you're going to have to dig in a little deeper. You didn't watch the video I linked, it shows how the three wire CAS works, You didn't answer the implied question about the Megasquirt software and whether or not it shows the CAS signal. Do you have Tunerstudio, or other tuning software? There's a bunch on the site about CAS signal problems. Since it worked at the supplier's shop the problem would seem to be with your equipment. The CAS signal is most likely. Here's one that covers a few things. https://www.diyautotune.com/support/downloads/ http://www.tunerstudio.com/index.php/tuner-studio/tunerstudioms-menu

I'd try to know more about these unknowns. You can waste a lot of time otherwise. You said that you have LS2 COP so there are no coil packs. There are two reasons a coil won't discharge - no power or no making and breaking the power circuit. You can probably check for power with a meter at a coil. The CAS can usually be tested also. Here's a typical video, it's actually pretty good. I don't see any reference to checks with a meter in your post. That's the place to start. Or, if I recall correctly, Megasquirt itself will confirm some of these things. Doesn't your "dashboard" show the CAS signal? Kind of looks like you just plugged things in and turned the key. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvuzZJqQDf4

I hope I'm not leading you down a messy path. This module swap is fairly easy if you have electrical experience, but might be a bit tough if you don't. It is a very common ignition module swap it works on many different brands of car and motorcycle. If you want to do some more searching and reading, use "GM HEI module swap" on the Google. I assume that this is for your 79 280ZX? If so, it should work fine, using just one of the pickups, using just two of those three wires. You can just leave the other one disconnected (tape up the end to avoid shorting the other pickup). The "black box" is a GM HEI module, that you can buy from any auto parts store. Ask for a 1977 Camaro ignition module. It has two holes in it for mounting inside a GM distributor but you'll be using those holes to mount it close to your coil and distributor. The mounting screws need a good ground circuit, so don't mount it to plastic or rubber, find a good solid metal spot for it. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1977,camaro,5.0l+305cid+v8,1035111,ignition,ignition+control+module+(icm),7172

Don't know if you meant propeller shaft or halfshaft (drive shaft), but you can still get the "D" bolts for the propeller shaft, apparently. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/propeller-shaft/2 https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-bolt~01111-00051.html

No. But that's where misalignment comes from, on all vehicles. Bad bushings and/or bent parts. Or loose/missing bolts. Check the subframe mounting bolts also. The whole thing could be about to fall out.

Get underneath and check the bushings, and look for bent stuff.

Here's a pretty good writeup. The most important part is the picture I think. There's almost too many words. Sometimes, if your distributor has been rebuilt you'll have blue wires instead of red and green. But they'll be red and green back inside the distributor where they spllced them in. Make sure that the mounting plate is well-grounded. That's where all of the current from the coil passes through. The C, B, W, and G that he shows will be molded in to the GM HEI module. The red and green wires from the distributor trigger the module through the G and W connection, and the B and C connections control the coil. There will be wires from the coil's negative terminal back in to the harness, those trigger the tach and the ECU. Just leave those as they are. http://www.sonic.net/~kyle/ztech.html

I thought that he said he got a magnet. Maybe he got the last one or they've stopped business due to the virus. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/22158s6700 A 280Z distributor will work just as well as your 280ZX distributor. The main difference is that the 280Z unit has an external ignition module. Might be easier to find a 280Z unit. @borini63 used to have spare parts.

Did you see this? You never said.

Pretty sure that the numbers are in one of jmortensen's threads. He had the shortened axles made. You could search his name or send him a message.

Maybe he just added to someone else's thread. Here's what I found searching jmortensen and laser.

I think that this guy found a source. Very surprised when he did. You'll have to read through it to find the post I think it's later in the thread. Start at the end and work backward if you're in a hurry. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63629-hitachi-280zx-distributors/

Just make sure the centerlines of each are parallel. That's the key. Jmortensen has written up a description of how to do it, using a laser and some gadgetry.

Nice looking car. 1975 only has two fusible links, plus the one in the power line to the EFI system. So your car is normal. Do you know if the alternator is working? You didn't mention the ammeter or voltage measurements. Just that you replaced the battery because it died. The way that it started, drove, then died and won't restart could be the ignition module or the ECU, among other things. Do you have a meter? You really need one to make any progress on the EFI system, or just for working on a car, in general. See if you have power to the coil, power on each side of the fusible link, etc. You can waste a lot of time and money replacing parts, when a few measurements will usually identify a problem. Electrical parts that can crap out after 40+ years, if original - ECU Ignition module Pickup coil in distributor Fusible links Fuel pump EFI/fuel pump relay Several sites out there have service manuals that you can download for free. I'd get one.

I've noticed that 5 and 6 are richer and 1 is leaner on the two factory stock L28"s I've run. Be careful with trimming your injector, the richness might only be at idle. 6 is known for being the detonation cylinder, from what I've read. Might go lean at higher air flows. You need 6 O2 sensors to really see what's happening.

Looks like they're using the old style, cantilevered front diff mount, using the four small bolt holes from the original strap. Puts a levered load on those bolts. Not sure what's going on with their other parts. Kind of hard to see in the car. They need a professional photographer.

280ZXT would be the 3x2 bolt pattern. Not the 4 hole. Chequered Flag Racing used to sell them, but he needed a certain number of orders to start a batch. Who knows he might have some left. He sells the whole flange that fits to the axle. Maybe mtnickel could make a 3x2 pattern also. Not too difficult, in principle, but would take some time. The 3x2 axles are hard to find so the market is tiny. @mtnickel If you have a 240Z there's a way to adapt a 280ZXT (or 2+2) flange to a 240Z wheel axle, so that you can use the 3x2 pattern axles. But, those flanges are hard to find now also. Overall, the 930 CV axle conversions is the simplest way to get CV's. http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html https://zcardepot.com/products/billet-aluminum-cv-axle-adaptor-930-240z-260z-280z https://whiteheadperformance.com/performance-parts/datsun-240z-260z-280z-parts/cv-conversion-stub-axles-companion-flanges/

You got back in to check the clutch, had a concerned look on your face for a while, then got out without saying "hooray, it works". If a person only watched the video they wouldn't know if it actually worked. When is the driving video?

I like the undraping of the fender from the engine vibration. You left the audience hanging at the end though....

Who is selling this kit? They should know about the axle problem. Could be the axles, could be the adapters, could be both together. Save someone else future problems and tell where you got it. jmortensen has done a ton of work on the axle length problem, along with other people. You could search his name and the topic. You'd probably have to take yours apart to see what's possible, which might make it impossible to return them. Seems like the "plunge joint" side would have some room for shortening and cutting a new notch, since it's just mm's. Found some videos just for fun. There's explosions and stuff. Remember, smoking kills. Good luck.

I saw a post recently, can't remember where, where the guy cut a new groove in the axle for the retaining clip, then cut the end off of the axle to shorten it. It was a simple solution to a common problem. You should post a picture of your axles and tell where you got them. If you can't flip the cages then they're not Nissan so nobody really knows what you're working with. The "too long aftermarket CV axle" has been described before.