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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    I will paste the link to your post and see if I can copy the result. I've copied it and am using CTRL V. It will show the image of the post, but won't accept when I hit "Submit Reply". So, it didn't work. I'll post the error message in my next post. It's what showed up after I hit "Submit Reply". I had to delete the embedded link to get this one to come up. Here is the image of what I attempted to do.
  2. NewZed
    Could be a cracked head. Check your spark plugs. They'll be a clue.
  3. NewZed
    https://bringatrailer.com/datsun/240z/
  4. NewZed
    I've pasted links in to posts and they automatically embed but the site will not accept the post unless I convert it to a plain text link. And the error messages have been different and unclear. I would guess that people have just quit inserting links or given up on posting links, because of this issue.
  5. NewZed
    240Z's have 25 splines, 280Z's have 27. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/69569-240z-vs-280z-stub-axle-strength/
  6. NewZed
    Don't have anything worthwhile to add but I can't remember if you have a 240Z or a 280Z. When I first got my 76 280Z I was surprised at how stiff the unibody was. Before I knew better I lifted from the back of the front frame rail and could get the whole side of the car up with no apparent flexing. I was used to old chevys that creaked and groaned and bent as you lifted them. The difference between the 240 and 280 bodies is often a topic of discussion.
  7. NewZed
    The O2 sensor signal is used by the system to adjust the open-time of the injectors. Impedance will not have an effect on the feedback signal. No offense to you guys but you should study up on how EFI systems use the O2 sensor signal. It's called "closed loop" control. It's still not clear how long people are waiting before they decide something is wrong. You need to let the system stabilize. Efforts to fix things before the system is stable just causes continued instability. Still, both FAST and zcardepot are selling kits with poor instructions and explanation of how things work. I wouldn't buy one for that reason alone. The FAST site is full of hype with very little support. Their forum function doesn't even work. I think that they're just milking the market until they die. http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/#technical-faqs-reference-articles.85
  8. NewZed
    I found it. I was more talkative back then. Some good comments from other members though. Having problems posting, this is a test. The site would only take the lin, as a link, not embedded. Weird. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116305-torsional-rigidity-testing-280z/
  9. NewZed
    I think that they're showing "boxed" body components. Integral reinforcement as you said. Like the rocker panels are one of the most important structural elements of the unibody. People often overlook that area when dealing with rust. The "frame rails" are just added stiffeners. They'll replace the stiffeners and leave the rusted out rocker panels. So, when looking at the cowl, or any body area, look for those reinforced areas. But, I'm not a structural or automotive engineer, so don't put too much weight in to my words. Somebody had a thread on the site where they really went deep in to how to reinforce the body. I think that they even built a framework to load the frame and measure deflection. It might be in an FAQ area, or might be found by a search.
  10. NewZed
    Here's the basic steel box that everything else is bolted on to. Might give you some ideas.
  11. NewZed
    At least I get the satisfaction of realizing that my intuition was right. I saw the first post and thought that I might not enjoy a dialog with the poster. But I took a chance, to see which way things would go. Could easily have gone the other way, with acknowledgement, a simple clarification, and offering some ideas. Oh well. I miss those old days. Good luck JMort.
  12. NewZed
    Sorry. I have the disadvantage of too much good schooling, I guess. Proper grammar would be "engaged/disengaged smoothly". Not "completely smooth". My over-trained brain was expecting different words. Never mind. Too early for word battles. Good luck.
  13. NewZed
    I can't figure out what the heck you mean. Could you add some words? p.s. "engaged" is clutch pedal up. "disengaged" is clutch pedal down. But you still need to add some descriptive phrases also. When, exactly, do you hear the clunk/knock?
  14. NewZed
    The triggering mechanisms are the same on the ZX distributors. The different distributors have different timing curves but work the same at idle speed. When a spike passes a spike a voltage pulse is generated. By "compare" I meant to set them side by side and see if the breaker plates and other moving parts are in the same orientation. Sit and stare at them for a while. Set them up so that they should be in exactly the same position and see if the spikes are oriented the same way. You can use your engine for that also, install them both, one at a time and take a picture of the reluctor spikes and trigger ring spikes. They'll probably be different. Then find a way to make the new one look like the old one. The oil in your engine should be below the level of the rear seal. No reason to create a puddle if the seal blew. But, no reason for the seal to blow from an engine "cough" through the intake manifold unless it was barely seated. So that is odd. Your clutch should be fine, it's on the other side of the flywheel. Thousands of leaky seals out there. At least you have something to do that doesn't require getting out and about and exposed. Good luck.
  15. NewZed
    You just have to pull bits from a variety of past stories. Basically you have to tune it to within a certain range, then let it "learn". I think that their target market is people who buy this and have a tuner install it. http://www.cpgnation.com/installing-a-fast-xfi-system-in-a-1964-fuel-injected-hemi-dodge/ If you can get the ECU closed loop correction under five percent, you’re good to go. Richard targeted 12.8 for the max power A/F ratio and the fourth pull resulted in this setup.
  16. NewZed
    Their support page has a lot of broken links. http://www.cpgnation.com/fast-quick-tech-video-installing-the-ez-efi-2-0/
  17. NewZed
    There's a process, but it's not clear what it is. Megasquirt has a "learning" function also, in case anyone wonders. http://www.cpgnation.com/inside-the-fast-xfi-2-0-hardware-and-software-tuning-features/ "The Self Learning VE table works by looking at your target air/fuel table and your base VE table and comparing the two, creating an automated VE map for your vehicle. Through the use of a dyno or normal street driving and with a wideband oxygen sensor and closed loop tuning, a ballpark fuel table can be created in short order. This obviously isn’t meant to nor can replace human input, but it will certainly get you a base to tune from. And for those jumping from the street to the strip and back, this is a great tool."
  18. NewZed
    Doesn't really seem fast or easy. It's surprising how little instruction there is on their web site but how much advertisement there is. An incredible amount about how easy and fantastic their products are but there doesn't seem to be a simple set of instructions or even a simple article about what to expect. Do you guys have instructions that tell you how long it takes for the system to stabilize? It can't be immediate. I can't find anything on their web site. And they can't spell "wiring" correctly. https://www.fuelairspark.com/
  19. NewZed
    To Miles's point - #6 is the only step you showed that suggests pushing the pedal actually moves any fluid. Your pressure bleeder doesn't do that, it can move fluid with out any of the mechanical parts even connected. Focus on the pedal linkage, brake booster, and master cylinder hard parts before worrying about the hydraulics.
  20. NewZed
    https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/chevrolet-gm/carb-to-efi/part1/ https://www.msextra.com/product-range/traditional-megasquirt/ The Megasquirt product range offers from the ‘cheap and cheerful’ batch fire fuel-only in full DIY assembly to full sequential fuel and spark on a V8 with a pre-assembled ECU.
  21. NewZed
    Compare the ratios to a "normal" 240Z or 280Z. 1st gear is where you'll first notice the ratios. If you live in a hilly area you'll want something around 12:1. If you live in a flat area, with a big torquey engine, maybe 11:1. And, "16 inch" is the diameter of the rim, not the diameter of the wheel. 240Z - 3.592 x 3.364 = 12.0 280Z - 3.321 x 3.54 = 11.75 280ZX - 3.062 x 3.9 = 11.94
  22. NewZed
    https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/130570-thoughts-on-apex-engineered-88-subframe/?do=findComment&comment=1221897
  23. NewZed
    Put the two distributors side by side and see if you can see the difference. The stator ring , the ring with the spikes, might have an internal adjustment that would affect timing. Also, and you probably should have done this sooner, make sure that the advance mechanism on your new one is not stuck. The vacuum advance moves the breaker plate and the little ball bearings get rusted up. The mechanical advance has springs and weights but also gets gummed up. Be careful with the breaker plate if you try to turn it and it's stuck you can break the bearing cage. Might just be that your new on is stuck in the advanced position. That seems more likely. Either way you want the advance mechanisms to move smoothly.
  24. NewZed
    Most "learning" EFI systems take multiple start, warmup, and cool-down/restart cycles before the parameters are properly set. They don't learn everything on the first pass. Rich is safer than lean so I'd expect them to start rich and lean things out based on O2 readings as time goes on. You could just drive it and keep a log and see where things go. Any changes you make will upset the learning process. Even on modern cars, you're supposed to start the engine cold and let it warm up fully, no throttle input, if you reset the computer. It's part of the learning process.
  25. NewZed

    240sx 5 speed

    NewZed replied to jkelly's topic in Parts Wanted

    Don't know. I know that there's a weaker 5 speed out there that was used on cars like the Datsun B210. You could probably compare parts on Rockauto or the gearbox rebuild sites and find out.
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