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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    At least I get the satisfaction of realizing that my intuition was right. I saw the first post and thought that I might not enjoy a dialog with the poster. But I took a chance, to see which way things would go. Could easily have gone the other way, with acknowledgement, a simple clarification, and offering some ideas. Oh well. I miss those old days. Good luck JMort.
  2. NewZed
    Sorry. I have the disadvantage of too much good schooling, I guess. Proper grammar would be "engaged/disengaged smoothly". Not "completely smooth". My over-trained brain was expecting different words. Never mind. Too early for word battles. Good luck.
  3. NewZed
    I can't figure out what the heck you mean. Could you add some words? p.s. "engaged" is clutch pedal up. "disengaged" is clutch pedal down. But you still need to add some descriptive phrases also. When, exactly, do you hear the clunk/knock?
  4. NewZed
    The triggering mechanisms are the same on the ZX distributors. The different distributors have different timing curves but work the same at idle speed. When a spike passes a spike a voltage pulse is generated. By "compare" I meant to set them side by side and see if the breaker plates and other moving parts are in the same orientation. Sit and stare at them for a while. Set them up so that they should be in exactly the same position and see if the spikes are oriented the same way. You can use your engine for that also, install them both, one at a time and take a picture of the reluctor spikes and trigger ring spikes. They'll probably be different. Then find a way to make the new one look like the old one. The oil in your engine should be below the level of the rear seal. No reason to create a puddle if the seal blew. But, no reason for the seal to blow from an engine "cough" through the intake manifold unless it was barely seated. So that is odd. Your clutch should be fine, it's on the other side of the flywheel. Thousands of leaky seals out there. At least you have something to do that doesn't require getting out and about and exposed. Good luck.
  5. NewZed
    You just have to pull bits from a variety of past stories. Basically you have to tune it to within a certain range, then let it "learn". I think that their target market is people who buy this and have a tuner install it. http://www.cpgnation.com/installing-a-fast-xfi-system-in-a-1964-fuel-injected-hemi-dodge/ If you can get the ECU closed loop correction under five percent, you’re good to go. Richard targeted 12.8 for the max power A/F ratio and the fourth pull resulted in this setup.
  6. NewZed
    Their support page has a lot of broken links. http://www.cpgnation.com/fast-quick-tech-video-installing-the-ez-efi-2-0/
  7. NewZed
    There's a process, but it's not clear what it is. Megasquirt has a "learning" function also, in case anyone wonders. http://www.cpgnation.com/inside-the-fast-xfi-2-0-hardware-and-software-tuning-features/ "The Self Learning VE table works by looking at your target air/fuel table and your base VE table and comparing the two, creating an automated VE map for your vehicle. Through the use of a dyno or normal street driving and with a wideband oxygen sensor and closed loop tuning, a ballpark fuel table can be created in short order. This obviously isn’t meant to nor can replace human input, but it will certainly get you a base to tune from. And for those jumping from the street to the strip and back, this is a great tool."
  8. NewZed
    Doesn't really seem fast or easy. It's surprising how little instruction there is on their web site but how much advertisement there is. An incredible amount about how easy and fantastic their products are but there doesn't seem to be a simple set of instructions or even a simple article about what to expect. Do you guys have instructions that tell you how long it takes for the system to stabilize? It can't be immediate. I can't find anything on their web site. And they can't spell "wiring" correctly. https://www.fuelairspark.com/
  9. NewZed
    To Miles's point - #6 is the only step you showed that suggests pushing the pedal actually moves any fluid. Your pressure bleeder doesn't do that, it can move fluid with out any of the mechanical parts even connected. Focus on the pedal linkage, brake booster, and master cylinder hard parts before worrying about the hydraulics.
  10. NewZed
    https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/chevrolet-gm/carb-to-efi/part1/ https://www.msextra.com/product-range/traditional-megasquirt/ The Megasquirt product range offers from the ‘cheap and cheerful’ batch fire fuel-only in full DIY assembly to full sequential fuel and spark on a V8 with a pre-assembled ECU.
  11. NewZed
    Compare the ratios to a "normal" 240Z or 280Z. 1st gear is where you'll first notice the ratios. If you live in a hilly area you'll want something around 12:1. If you live in a flat area, with a big torquey engine, maybe 11:1. And, "16 inch" is the diameter of the rim, not the diameter of the wheel. 240Z - 3.592 x 3.364 = 12.0 280Z - 3.321 x 3.54 = 11.75 280ZX - 3.062 x 3.9 = 11.94
  12. NewZed
    https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/130570-thoughts-on-apex-engineered-88-subframe/?do=findComment&comment=1221897
  13. NewZed
    Put the two distributors side by side and see if you can see the difference. The stator ring , the ring with the spikes, might have an internal adjustment that would affect timing. Also, and you probably should have done this sooner, make sure that the advance mechanism on your new one is not stuck. The vacuum advance moves the breaker plate and the little ball bearings get rusted up. The mechanical advance has springs and weights but also gets gummed up. Be careful with the breaker plate if you try to turn it and it's stuck you can break the bearing cage. Might just be that your new on is stuck in the advanced position. That seems more likely. Either way you want the advance mechanisms to move smoothly.
  14. NewZed
    Most "learning" EFI systems take multiple start, warmup, and cool-down/restart cycles before the parameters are properly set. They don't learn everything on the first pass. Rich is safer than lean so I'd expect them to start rich and lean things out based on O2 readings as time goes on. You could just drive it and keep a log and see where things go. Any changes you make will upset the learning process. Even on modern cars, you're supposed to start the engine cold and let it warm up fully, no throttle input, if you reset the computer. It's part of the learning process.
  15. NewZed

    240sx 5 speed

    NewZed replied to jkelly's topic in Parts Wanted

    Don't know. I know that there's a weaker 5 speed out there that was used on cars like the Datsun B210. You could probably compare parts on Rockauto or the gearbox rebuild sites and find out.
  16. NewZed
    Define "super". The filler cap test is more of a confirmation that things are right. If it dies then the air-fuel mix at idle is about right. But it doesn't really tell you how bad things are though, if the engine keeps running. My engine used to run fine, and smell fine, not rich, with the filler cap off but would not pass emissions. I had to put an old factory AFM on to get it to pass.
  17. NewZed
    It will only die if the air-fuel ratio is about right, and that's when you remove the oil filler cap. If it's running rich then the extra air from removing the oil filler cap (not the dip stick tube), won't have any effect. The dip stick tube is a source of vacuum leaks through the PCV system, but it would probably only change idle speed a small amount if you pulled it. Try removing the oil filler cap and see what happens.
  18. NewZed

    240sx 5 speed

    NewZed replied to jkelly's topic in Parts Wanted

    The 84-89 300ZX used a 71C also, along with the BW 5 speed.
  19. NewZed
    I was going to ask if you have or had an E12-80 module, and maybe your new one is different. There's a -92 and -93 and they have an internal timing advance feature, controlled by a temperature switch. Compare your black box numbers. There is a trick to using the -92 and/or -93, apparently. But, just swapping to your old module might do the trick since it's only your magnet that was bad. Edit - forgot to say, you could also swap the magnet from your new distributor in to your old one. The Z distributors have another adjustment screw underneath that can affect timing. Maybe the ZX distributors do too, and your two have been adjusted differently. That's an option also. It allows you to turn the body of the distributor on the upright supporting portion.
  20. NewZed
    I don't want to pick on the random guesses but the poster says that there's no spark. We can all really only go by what is written. If there's no spark then distributor position won't matter. Could be that he's using the tester incorrectly, or has forgotten how to use his meter. But, when working with electrical things, one of the very first things a person usually does is to check that the electrical thing is getting electricity. It needs it to function.
  21. NewZed
    They've been known to break.
  22. NewZed
    Kind of sounds like you have your plug wires off by one terminal. Turn the distributor to where you have more adjustment room and move the #1 wire to the terminal the rotor is closest to then.
  23. NewZed
    Good luck. You do know that the BW 5 speed needs extra work to fit in a Z car? Transmission mounts and stuff. Not clear if you're working with a Z or a ZX. I'm really only replying because I think that you'll be waiting a long time to find somebody with just a bellhousing, and if you're working with a Z you'll need more parts on top of that. Describe your project and you'll probably get lots of ideas. But the forum is low on traffic these days so the guys with BW bells are going to be few. @borini63 is a ZX guy though, he might have one.
  24. NewZed
    Good luck with that. Might as well buy a whole transmission. What happened to the bellhousing that it came with? Can't think of any reason to separate them.
  25. NewZed
    The 280ZX used the L28 also. It already fits. The 280ZX "Borg-Warner" is the FS5R90A.
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