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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    We've overlooked one of the basics of most Z and ZX alternators, especially the parts store remans - they don't put out much current at low RPM. Did you rev the engine and check voltage? If you have battery voltage at the L terminal (the bottom of the T) the alternator should charge if it's spinning and nothing is drawing it down. Your battery is getting low, 12.4 means it at about 70% and needs a charge, and it might be drawing all of the current if you're doing your voltage checks at idle RPM. If you give it a rev and it still doesn't charge, have it checked at a parts store. Parts store remans aren't known for high quality, generally. Your wiring seems right. It should work.
  2. NewZed
    That's the condenser. And the charging wire (withe with red stripe). The battery cable is the one that goes from the battery to the start lug. It's big and thick. Like a cable. Just connect it like it's shown in the picture. To the BAT terminal. The wire end of the condenser connects to positive, the body to Earth/ground. E. It is there to absorb electrical noise. Don't leave the blue wire coming out of the harness disconnected because it might short to ground. Hopefully it hasn't already. Check your fusible links while you're in the engine bay. To be sure you didn't short something and blow a link.
  3. NewZed
    1975 doesn't show a blue wire but 1976 does. Use your meter to find the switched power wire. You might have 76 colors in your 75. Nissan changed things on the fly sometimes. And what does "battery connector for the alternator" mean? Doesn't paint a picture.
  4. NewZed
    The wire connects to the thick charging wire. You should always check your work with a meter if you can. It will save you a lot of time. If you don't have battery voltage at the T plug with the key on, work back in the wiring until you find the problem. The 1975 wiring diagrams will help you also. The Engine Electrical chapter has small specific diagrams so you don't have to use the big one.
  5. NewZed
    If L doesn't get power with the key on the alternator won't charge. Do you have a meter? Is your ammeter connected? Have you had the car long? Did the old external regulator system work? Why did you decide to do the swap? Is the alternator body grounded? The thing is called a condenser. The body is grounded and the wire is connected to the main charging wire.
  6. NewZed
    The twisted piece with the hole in it looks non-stock. You might edit your title to something descriptive like "What is this bracket by the diff strap for - 1973 240Z:".
  7. NewZed
    Which one? Provide a link.
  8. NewZed
    Sounds like you used a short TOB collar with a newer short pressure plate. Any 225mm pressure plate from 70 - 83 will bolt on to your flywheel. Who knows what the spring/lever height is... Look at Post 23. With all of the possibilities out there if you don't measure you have to get lucky.
  9. NewZed
    Your Google-fu is strong. What's your objective? Derek did some good stuff with ITB's and EFI. Search his posts and you will be closer to the grasshopper..
  10. NewZed
    Your questions are a decent step in to the world of EFI but yes, they are a bit odd. A great starting point to learn about EFI is the Engine Fuel chapter of the 1975-1978 FSM's. They give a very fundamental explanation of EFI because they were the first years of EFI for Nissan. Seriosuly, download the 1976 FSM and read the Engine Fuel chapter. On spark, there are many possibilities, but much of the very complex systems are really designed for emissions purposes, not performance. The performance benefit to cost ratio isn't great for anyhting beyond a fairly modern electronic igntion system. The Pertronix system is an early electronic system that has survived the years, But there are simpler, chepaer ways to get a good stronger spark. ZX distributors, GM HEI modules, MSD setups, etc. If you want to make a big jump in to EFI, read up on Megasquirt. The Megamanual is random and complex but there are some good writeups on different manufacturers' systems that can be very educational. But you can get lost in there too. Keep reading and posting focused questions and a path will show itself. Good luck.
  11. NewZed
    I suggest reviewing the suggestions in this thread, addressing the potential causes, refocusing, and providing better information. You got a bunch of ideas from your video but now you're saying the video is old. All those people who watched the old video, wrote some numbers down,and did some math for you. Are they going to do it again? Who knows. Here's another possibility for you - tiny, or clogged boost hoses. Bad boost data. Or a bad boost gauge. I didn't watch the video (and won't now, because it's old) but if you're just shooting up in to boost zone and then back down, maybe there's a delay at your gauge. Several people are questioning your numbers, you should verify that you're getting good data. The fact that your pressure gauge company backs their products doesn't mean that they don't break. Just means they'll fix them when they do. Much of what your dealing with depends on good information. You have a lot of sketchy numbers here. Since the engine is safe, you can spend time making sure you have good data. Millions, maybe billions, of hours have been wasted by people working with bad data.
  12. NewZed
    You said it runs great, doesn't smoke, no real problems except an AFR number (the LED's on the gauge - my joke) that makes you uncomfortable. But it's uncomfortable on the safe, rich, side. I didn't go through your math, but at least two people did and said that there's no great mismatch between fuel pressure and boost pressure. The numbers are right. Basically, it looks like you don't really have a problem to fix. And the only solution to fine-tuning your AFR's is to get a tuneable engine management system. There's nothing that can be done here. Stop looking at the AFR gauge and enjoy the car. Or get a tuneable system. That's all I'm saying.
  13. NewZed
    Seems like your best option might be to just stop looking at the AFR gauge. You're tuning to an LED.
  14. NewZed
    If I recall correctly, you can remove part of the bracket for the strut . It looks like it's welded but part of the bracket is bolted on and does come off and will give you more room to slip the panel out. It's a bracket bolted to a bracket. You'll need to prop up the hatch I think, since the end of one strut will be loose. I'm working from memory of past advice, and realizing how it worked later. I have tried to remove mine but changed my mind when I got stuck in the same spot. The part I was trying to get to became less important.
  15. NewZed
    You're not really using the way a fuel pump works correctly. All it produces is volume. The FPR creates pressure. Assuming the same voltage, you'll get maximum volume at idle or engine not running. Because the injectors aren't bleeding off volume. Assuming the same voltage again, if the return line was a restriction, you'd see the problem when you were running the pump without the engine running because the volume would be the greatest. Nothing bleeding it off. I'd check your pressure with a mechanical gauge. Could be that you just have a rich tune on your JWT ECU, everything's fine with the FPR, and you just have a funky transducer on your pressure gauge. The one in your pictures. You might be on a wild goose chase, from bad data. Pretty common.
  16. NewZed
    Just a flyer - are the reference port for the FPR and the port for the boost gauge in the same spot, or close? Just to be sure. The boost pressures is "helping" the regulator spring close the FPR return port. Hard to imagine a step-type increase in pressure, of 5 psi. The return line would only seem to come in to play if you were on the edge with the pump output and extra voltage caused more pump output. Maybe your voltage regulator is bad. Another flyer.
  17. NewZed
    1975 still has the Ammeter so your simplest quickest check of a failed VR is to put a meter on the battery terminals and rev the engine. If you get 16 or over, that's bad. The complete, thorough test procedure is shown in the FSM. Whatever path you choose, owning a good multimeter is almost mandatory for working on these cars. You can just go to the parts store and get a 1982 280ZX alternator and you'll be fine, if you decide to do the swap.
  18. NewZed
    They differ by year. It's called the Warning light switch in the FSM. Part #21. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/brake/brake-piping/from-jul-72
  19. NewZed
    Those look like CAS wires. With coil-packs, the distributor function is gone, so that's not the right word. The modules are a bit sensitive, I think. Here's a vendor. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121493-new-crank-angle-sensors-for-8283-280zxts-in-stock/ I've dinked around with later models (Pathfinder VG30E engine) and found that some people swap newer for older. I don't know which comes on the 280ZX CAS's though, so don't know if this is relevant. Here's an example. RSB-07 replaces RSB-03. https://z31performance.com/forum/z31-basics/how-to-guides-basic/20433-rsb-07-cam-sensor If you have another car that uses that type of CAS you can plug in the questionable CAS to the good car, turn the key to On, and spin it by hand. If it's good the injectors will click. An easy way to tell if it's ECU or CAS.
  20. NewZed
    Don't miss the fact that pre-ignition, caused by hot spots, can cause detonation, but it's not a necessary precursor. Detonation can happen without it. Detonation is caused by pressure and heat of the fuel-air mixture. It's an explosion of all of the remaining fuel-air mix at one time. Combustion chamber shape comes in to play because a bad design can create pockets of high pressure.
  21. NewZed
    You could use one of these things.
  22. NewZed
    BRAAP did some work on intakes in his EFI tips thread. I have the link in my clipboard - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/
  23. NewZed
    You should read all of these threads - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/ You seem to be hearing what people are saying then deciding to do what you wanted to do anyway. The engine's don't like high compression ratios. And people don't just "convert to E85" on a whim, it's a whole other world. If your thinking that picking the right head gasket is the way to set a compression ratio, E85 is going to take you forever. Seriously, read the threads in that link, they're full of answers. p.s. I see that I basically copied and reworded JMortensen's comment, #10 and #7. Overlapping posting, I think, I missed his.
  24. NewZed
    It's been over 5 years. OK and "slapping" don't go well together. The answer to your first question was really "leave the N47 head on". Seriously, it's got the bigger valves and good compression ration that JM mentioned as important. You'd be creating problems and ending up with a weaker motor by swapping on an E31 head.
  25. NewZed
    Diseazd, I think you mean. Isn't there an old saying - "There's no replacement for displacement"? "Destroking" gives a buzzy motor but you end up with less power. Nissan lengthened the stroke to add displacement, giving more power.
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