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  1. Like the title says! Must be matching, and must be from those 2 years. Older style locks won't work. Also considering buying just an ignition and driver's side locks that match from those years. Please have pictures so I can confirm the locks are of the correct type. PM me with offers!
  2. I'm looking for a rust free and overall clean s30 hood in the Houston Area. I have no preference concerning which style either. Just let me know what you have. Feel free to send me a PM or leave a response here with the details. Best Regards Anthony
  3. Well, I figured it would happen eventually. I'm trying to figure out the wiring before I get the engine in the car so the swap goes as quickly as possible. I've gone over the sticky as well as the more extensive and hidden version of the same thing. Harness is from an 82/83 280ZXT and going into a '76 280Z The diagrams and pictures I've seen have two plugs near the rubber firewall grommet, one for ignition (8 wire plug) and one for the fuel pump/fuel pump relay (6 wire plug). However, my harness has two 8 wire plugs, and the wires and colors do not match those of the diagrams I've seen. It doesn't even match the '83 FSM diagram. The person I bought the harness from labeled a couple wires in what seems to be the fuel pump and fuel pump relay plug harness, but I can't verify them obviously since the plugs and wire colors don't match what I've seen. Diagram that has been referenced: I'm also confused on the two wires that feed power to the EFI relay. They were connected to fusible links, but the sticky says stick them on the POS terminal of the starter. Shouldn't they be fed power after fuses? I'd assume I can hook them up to my fuses that are currently in the car (I did the maxifuse swap) but I'm not sure... Also, I'm unsure about where to wire the power wires that are in the EFI relay loom. 1 constant 12v and 2 switched 12v. If anyone has done this swap and would like to guide me on where would be a good spot to do this please let me know. Maybe I'm just thinking about this too much but I keep second guessing myself and running into weird issues like the plugs and wire colors not matching. Pictures attached show the plugs in question.
  4. Hey guys, I'm trying decide which radiator to buy for my sr20det swap in my Z. I want to spend around 3-400 dollars. If anyone has had a good experience with a certain radiator I would appreciate the input.
  5. BrentzBadZ


    From the album: 1978 280Z

  6. BrentzBadZ


    From the album: 1978 280Z

  7. BrentzBadZ

    Moonlight 2

    From the album: 1978 280Z

  8. BrentzBadZ

    Moonlight 1

    From the album: 1978 280Z

  9. Hi, I'm looking at a driveshaft I found and based on the pictures it looks like a T5 driveshaft that's been cut and shortened on one end. To my knowledge, they're the only ones that neck down at both ends, but this one only has that at one. It also has the square diff flange and seems to have a 26 spline tailshaft yoke based on the blurry picture I got. Can anyone tell me for sure that it is/isn't? Thanks.
  10. I'm rebuilding an l28et and noticed this injector looks off. At least the cap is missing, maybe more. Is it toast? I can't find anything to reference what it should look like without the cap. Thanks in advance. And a different injector for reference:
  11. Hi im new to this forum but just the other day I got my first 280z. When I bought the car I knew it would be a project but I thought mechanically there was nothing wrong the previous owner swapped a new l28e and a new 5speed with 50k on both. With that being said I was doing a speed run the other day and after taking my z to 100 the power curve seemed shaky like after 80mph I would get bursts of highter power and then a lull of power. Now the problem hasgotten much worse, when I get upto 4000rpm it feels like the car is fuel cutting and randomly while I drive I just get what feels like complete fuel starvation. I think it might be either the afm or the tps but I was wonderin if anybody else has had this problem. There are new wires and plugs, new fuel filter, and injectors, and from what I can tell decent fuel pressure. I also started the car and it seemed like one of the cylenders want firing... maybe somethin to do with ignition timing? -thanks
  12. So here's the problem. My 280 runs good for a while. But after a couple minutes of running it it just starts to slow down. I try giving it more gas but it won't let me it just wont go above 40mph and it just starts getting worse I have to stop the car and turn it off and back on
  13. Hey Zers! Well its come time to turn my stroker 280zx into a stroker turbo..right now i have 10:1 CR. I plan to install forged J.E Dished pistons and a 2.5mm HG. this should bring my comp down to a low enough leval to turbo charge.my biggest concern is going with an aftermarket EFI..im running tripple 44 mikunis right now.im thinking of using the N42 non-EGR intake manifold and a 70mm TB.greedy boost controller.Megasquirt 2,MSD 6-2.t3/t4 turbo,720cc injectors.blow off valve/waste gate etc..im wondering what sensors are needed to use megasquirt for my fuel control only.am i able to use MS for fuel only and use MSD 6 for my spark control? if this works,can someone please give me a short write up as to how to go about setting this up.im pretty new to EFI as i grew up with carbs (and im 21). Please,any insight on this would be great. P.S- I plan to run 17-20lb boost MAX! thanks~ Randall
  14. Hey, This build topic will be constantly changing as I learn and take input from you guys and other sources. So please feel free to let me know if you have found a better way or part for where I am heading. The goal of this build will be to take my Z from it's stock daily driver status and take it to a completely rebuilt machine and return as my daily and occasional autoxer. I am planning on starting the rebuild in the beginning of the new year as I am currently in the middle of moving across country. So for now, it's planning... Engine/Intake/Exhaust LS based - I would like to start with a 6.0l, either iron or aluminum. I am waiting to see what I can find in the local scrap yards. EFI - I want the fuel economy and space savings that come with it. Heads/Cam/Rotating Assembly - The LS6 components look like they will be enough for me for now. Still need to choose headers, exhaust will be based on what is best for the engine/performance Drive Train/Suspension/Brakes/Wheels T-56 6 Speed No clutch setup chosen yet Considering full T3 suspension/coilovers/disk brakes/rear end conversion/5 lug conversion - Looking at the Q45 for the diff and other parts - whatever ends up being the strongest is what I will go for. T3 Front and Rear Sway bars Polyurethane in applicable areas I have several rims that I like, but I will go with the largest tires in the rear I can find...I have a lot of reading to do on that topic... Electrics/Gauges/Interior Glowshift Tinted 7 color gauges - Speedo, Tach, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Water Temp Full rewire kit - American Autowire Highway 22 circuit kit NRG Steering Wheel NRG or Sparco Seats Power window and locks - Spal kits Dash repaired using the how to on the forums Body/Exterior Body completely taken down to metal, cleaned and repaired. Lizard Skin 2 coat system and Dynamat then new carpet 20 gal fuel cell All new weather stripping HID headlight conversion Fender flares Skinny front bumper and air dam 240 style rear bumper I will paint it myself...not sure what color just yet This is what I have so far...So like I said, please feel free to throw in your two cents...Also, I have two 1977 280Zs...My daily is a 4 speed and I bought the other as a parts car (it's a 5 speed). So, when this is all said and done, I will have a lot of the stock parts I won't be needing like the engines and drivetrain/suspension components...So when the time comes I will be looking to get those out to those that need or want them...Thanks and I am looking forward to getting started and hearing back from you all... Volition
  15. I am looking for a good set of coilovers that will drop the car about 1 inch. They do not need to be top of the line, I will only be doing street driving but looking for a decent upgrade from my stock ones of 1978. Also a front sway bar. Thanks,
  16. Recently started my 280z Project with Boba my beautiful 76' 280z 2+2. I bought her from a guy that was planning on fully restoring her but never got around to finishing it. When i got her the guy had already pulled the engine and disassembled almost all the parts including the exhaust. He also had pulled out Boba's seats because they were in pretty bad condition but the back seats are fine. Due to his not getting around to her, it sat in his drive way for a couple of years. It has a few minor rust spots but nothing major from what i can tell. Most of the rust spots being in the engine bay, around the mount. It also a small crack on the tail light, passenger side mirror is missing, the clip for the rear seats to pull them done seems to be broken and won't pull done. The carpet is also a complete disaster so i plan to pull it and see if there is any rust underneath then replace it with aftermarket seats that are on the way. I plan on during making some modifications to the engine and exhaust to put some more power into it. Some plans that I have for it are too: Install some new MSA Header New Aluminzed Performance Exhaust Cold air induction system New Four Piston brake calipers Performance kit that comes with new retainers and springs, rockers arms, lash pads Maybe New pistons depending on what kind of shape they are in Those are the major changes I plan on then after that probably fix up the suspension with new struts and springs and a Roll Bar for the back. All the parts i listed i found on the Zstore online. Its going to be a long on going project but it will be worth it in the end. I'll continue to post pictures as it goes along, i should finish pulling the carpet tomorrow and the seats should be coming in the next few days.
  17. Hi, I recently picked up some Chastain Shadow louvers for my 280z but they don't have the lower mounting plates that the captive screws go onto and tighten down on. These louvers are the kind that go underneath the weatherstripping and lift up. Thanks in advance, Brandon
  18. hey guys! I was just wondering, is it possible to use a non-EGR intake manifold with the stock 280zx turbo ECU? also,if i upgrade the injectors to 320cc,can the stock computer run with this? im turning my n/a into a turbo and dont have the cash to go aftermarket engine managment yet,so i would like to use the following.. (looking for 250-300 hp). stock turbo ECU Turbo dizzy N42 intake manifold (Non-EGR) Stock turbo and turbo manifold FMIC Pipping for turbo/IC Manual boost controler. 320cc injectors. custom fuel rail. imsight? Randall
  19. Okay so i guess i start off with its a 1978 280z non turbo 5speed. New injectors, injector connections,mAf,temp sensor,thermo switch,radiator,fan clutch works,water pump works,what i beleive is an aftermarket 280z fuel pump hard wired to the battery on a switch, oil change and checked for vacuum leaks(none). So the car heats up past operating temp fast even in the cold mornings within 5 minutes and stays there doesnt change with speed or sitting still. After like 15-20 minutes the car will buck but only from a dead stop and under 1500-2k in first if i rev it past that and then release the clutch it doesnt happen.the bucking isnt bad. It idles perfectly at 750 and revs dont bounce or jump. Starts up fine and revs smooth in natural all the way up to 6k the speedo jumps under 20 but stops after that. Any ideas on whats.causing the constaint temps in 50° or 97° temps it just stays at the "m" on temp in the gauge once it warms up (within 5-8 minutes) and the bucking at low revs from a stop? I can move the dizzy rotor but only rotational and not alot but i feel like it ahouldt do that? And ideas would be nice i love my Z and want to drive her stress free
  20. I've had my 280z for about 7 months now and it was running strong until one day I was changing the spark plugs and I stripped the port so long story short I just brairly fixed the thread on the spark plug port and got the spark plug in and hooked up the battery and the gauge only read 12 volts so I hooked up the jumper cables to see if it will move but nothing and now the car just doesn't want to start any help btw 1976 280z stock l28
  21. Hey guys, I just picked up a 1978 280z about a week ago. My goal is to make it a reliable daily driver/head turner. I was surprised that I was already turning heads despite its current condition. The car is in much better shape mechanically than it is cosmetically. The engine has been rebuilt by a previous, previous owner. The PO gave me a folder of a bunch of receipts that the guy before him had. Despite all the work that's been done, she still runs a bit rough. But ran well enough for the 2 hours drive home! A bit of information about myself: I'm pretty much your typical broke college student. I despise driving my lame corolla around town, and although I do have a motorcycle, my girlfriend hates riding it, plus it rains all the time here. So... I bought a Z! I thought since it's summer and I'm bringing in a bit of money from my summer job, it'd be a perfect time to start on this project. I'm starting this thread to document the process and to make sure I stay motivated to finish. I don't know too much about this car or mechanics in general but I'm usually pretty good at figuring things out. I only have basic tools and as stated before, my budget is very limited. I hope you guys can help me along the way! Here are some pics... These are pics provided by the PO He bought an air dam that he hasn't installed yet, I think I want a different one later on Aftermarket rear fender, I think I'm going to take that off and go for the shaved look Came with chrome wheels, these will do for now The PPO had a minor front end collision, the PO replaced the hood, also gave me a spare hatch My IG photo when I finally got her home. I don't have access to a garage atm so she's parked in the backyard. Hope it doesn't rain too much! But then again... I do live in Seattle... you can already see some rust forming on the hood
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