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toolman

Heavy Duty frame rails and connectors

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 Back in 1971, this 71 240Z was my First and Only Car.   It was a Total Wreck- the owner ran it into a large Bulldozer parked on the side of the road.

My father owned a automotive body shop which had 5 frame machines.   We fixed often repaired totaled cars.   So we put it on the frame machine

and pulled it straight with multiple 10 ton hydraulic rams.   Then the damaged pieces were replaced with OEM parts.   I drove the car "stock" for

about a year but decided it needed more power.   I first checked into modifying the Nissan 6 cylinder motor by Weber carbs, turbocharging and 5 speed racing transmission).   But those options were way too expensive.   Being a Chevy drag racer, putting a Chevy 327 motor with Turbo 400 transmission seemed like a easy answer.  So after gathering all of the needed parts, I pulled the old six engine out and put the 327 in.   I had the car running in a week time because I  had to use vacation time to do the conversion.   At a later date, I put a more  powerful 350 and T-5 five speed trans and put metal flares on.   In 1988, I bought my second car 88 Chevrolet Astro Van for business.   My 240z was basically sitting in the garage

since that time.   So I owe it to spent some time restoring it as the best that I can do.   I hope this story explains my restoration.

    Back to the restoration:   I put the  Wheel Fitment Tool on the car to check the wheel alignment out.  But first, had to remove the strut coil spring as it won't allow the body to drop as there was no engine weight and accessories.

IMG_6562.thumb.JPG.8615f5fa670f2e7399de1f3170704f84.JPG Took out spring

 

Put the Wheel Fitment Tool to test it out.

IMG_6602.thumb.JPG.5cd6ace946fef2f757bdabadac42f73f.JPG       IMG_6603.thumb.JPG.7ea38175a0038a992a9585de22731753.JPG

Wooden blocks were placed under the lower control arm to adjust ride height.  The car is still on a dolly which lifts the vehicle about 1" higher than a stock Z.

IMG_6573.thumb.JPG.952aa87e251f377a466c85d6c8da1c21.JPG Using a Tool Aid Wheel Alignment gauge to check Camber readings.

 

A carpenters square shoed the hub to be close to zero so I set the gauge to zero degrees,

IMG_6572.thumb.JPG.3dfc45d8828fe3a8d0f1eba9939a5456.JPGAfter checking the Square with the ground, I reversed it to better demonstrate camber.

 

By tilting the straight edge top outward(away from the car) to stimulate Positive Camber. 

IMG_6574.thumb.JPG.95cba0209ed5b48821336f91dde84291.JPG          IMG_6573.thumb.JPG.bacf88b0ff5b7e54dc2bcd68ab2813ea.JPG  Positive Camber

 

To stimulate Negative  Camber, I titled the top of the straight edge inward( toward the engine compartment).

IMG_6604.thumb.JPG.7fe30ed1dbd44d8974f81fcd73fe838a.JPG            IMG_6578.thumb.JPG.27084374ed854ef4fa4cc8763360a202.JPG  Negative Camber

 

I think there was a misunderstanding about what I trying to accomplish.   In my particular case, I am trying to eliminate as much Negative Camber that I can.   Lowering the car with shorter springs, lower ride height, extra wide wheels,etc will create a lot of Negative Camber.   Shortening the lower control arms, upper camber plates, modified spindles,etc maybe utilized to provide Positive Camber to achieve alignment.  My car will be basically a Street Car and not a Race Car requiring 3 degrees Negative Camber.   Now, you can even change front and rear crossmembers to get the alignment that you want.        

      

Edited by toolman
text corrections

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  The wheel fitment tool was designed to  go to even  a 12" wide tire.

IMG_6661.thumb.JPG.f62bdad90cfe34df6440593e62d679ba.JPG  As I only had a 8" wide tire, one has to imagine the other 4" extending inside the fender.

 

 

First, Zeroing the Camber gauge

 

 

IMG_6598.thumb.JPG.9a2705c6c521294d0bc94cfcbaf31704.JPG  Camber gauge zeroed in.

Then, holding the straight edge with camber gauge against the outside of the tire.

IMG_6625.thumb.JPG.1274c91a589249b402f8b2524f4ecf0a.JPG  The Camber reading is 1 1/4 degrees Pos  

  IMG_6646.thumb.JPG.966a41dcac63caac0cd9c905833d08ca.JPG  This wheel/tire combination would require a 3" fender flare.

 

  In this case, the wheel had a 2" Negative offset-the wheel center was 2" inward of center of the wheel.

IMG_6685.thumb.JPG.2697dc5eef9b417fe076c1151642b576.JPG

 

The 245 X 18 X 8  offset wheel/tire combination looks like this from the front view.  A mild street look.

.IMG_6658.thumb.JPG.40a90b56c5558fdb54e5a8848880d2aa.JPG

 

 

 

Do not forget that the ride height is still not correct.   The present ride height is about 3" to 4" higher than what it will be with the new coil over suspension.   Lowering the vehicle will create negative camber and bring the camber to closer to a zero reading.   Also, keep in mind, these are only simulations and I am going to larger tires and wheels.

 

 

 

 

Edited by toolman
text added. add additional pic

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Next thing to work on was the rear control arms.  First, I cleaned them up to remove any dirt and grease.   Then, they could be sandblasted with 

#80 grit media.   Next, removing their inner bushings was next.   Using a air saw, I cut two parallel cuts in the inner  metal bushing.

IMG_6729.thumb.JPG.0a407dcb311e8d4372010dbec53e418b.JPG If you don't have a air saw, you can use a hack saw. But you have to take the blade off

the saw then stick in the bushing then reassemble the saw.   Saw two parallel cuts through the inner metal bushing.   Remove it and use a

air chisel to push the inner bushing out.

IMG_6728.thumb.JPG.d54bb08af517975f7cdb5b25586314ae.JPG

 

Try to get the bushing to collapse and fold over.    If not, use a torch to burn away the rubber portion of the bushing.

IMG_6730.thumb.JPG.fa068fc564e7c855b0e05b270c8cafaf.JPG  Besides the burning rubber, avoid being burned by hot rubber pieces.

 

Remove all the rubber from the bushing with a wire brush.

IMG_6732.thumb.JPG.d3f7e9dd98a12b72951f67da4333f52a.JPG

 itself

Now, use a Sawzall to cut two parallel cuts in the outer part of the bushing.   Be careful not to damage the control arm while doing this task.

Use a air chisel to collapse and push the bushing out of the arm.

IMG_6770.thumb.JPG.dfcaf8f0428edeb0f4ae67323dcc18c4.JPG The removed outer bushing should resemble something like this.

 

If the control arm was damaged while removing the bushings,  you can repair it before installing the new bushings.

IMG_6734.thumb.JPG.12f73c6541b82743b8b2d1c04e1a8372.JPG

 

The control arms ready for powder coating.

IMG_6736.thumb.JPG.569797f1bf20fd7131ab9292ca993bdb.JPG

.

Control arm in my powder coating oven.

IMG_6737.thumb.JPG.d589412e8c2d3be550cf4e34de6ce197.JPG

 

Now, I have to wait till my control arm bushings to arrive so I can press them in.

 

 

 

 

Edited by toolman
text, more pics

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When the Postman brought a large box for me, I ripped it open immediately-it was my CRX Racing Coil Over Suspension kit.

814947767_IMG_6687(1).thumb.JPG.722b97e2beb39fda8391da6da3ce733e.JPGShorter ones were for the Front and Longer ones for the Rear.

The cost was $850 plus $150 for freight.  CRX has installation instructions at their online site.

Installation is simple.  You cut about 2" to 2 1/4" from the bottom of the strut tube then weld the external sleeve to the strut base.

IMG_6688.thumb.JPG.1337123b92762523f517b2f690ff918f.JPGBottom sleeve and coil over strut section.

I measured the length of the coil spring to record the spring preload.   The lower threaded section allows you set the ride height that you want.

 

 

IMG_6692.thumb.JPG.b9981a59e0101bf347584c5b660181c9.JPG   Strut disassembly

 

298589482_IMG_6694(1).thumb.JPG.fa23f60cccb4924ce201583e40694f99.JPG  Struts were disassembled and sandblasted to prep for welding.

 

After taping the cutting line, I started the cut by using a hack saw.

1305988994_IMG_6696(1).thumb.JPG.e8f25829a0463da98901920d3c78242b.JPG

 

1135889332_IMG_6698(1).thumb.JPG.0dfea442c01461835dfa72d07d8b20de.JPG  Then a SAWALL was used to finish the strut sectioning.

 

IMG_6720.thumb.JPG.b542225bdf336ad093187b50b6fa585c.JPG  Sectioning completed

 

 

 

The Front Spindles had a casting bump between the tube and spindle casting.  I sawed a V cut in it to provide more welding space.

The Rear Spindles don't have any casting lump.

IMG_6714.thumb.JPG.09c0049db7a49f83606f21f93aeb1d97.JPG Welded up spindle

 

All four struts were sent out for powder coating as it is too bulky for my small oven to heat up.

 

All four Spindle Backing Plates needed cleanup to be powder coated.

IMG_6722.thumb.JPG.b5a682573e51d377a401692b8653fcf0.JPG      IMG_6724.thumb.JPG.280b4a53a06f2036418b89ed681acc87.JPG

 

                                   Front Backing Plates  after Powder Coating

IMG_6725.thumb.JPG.3253c579811653eceb8c97f23eb8435e.JPG

 

Rear backing plates powder coated

IMG_6781.thumb.JPG.130b423af149390d7dc2d5636537d215.JPG

 

Hopefully, the Powder Coating guys won't take too long on the struts so I can put the suspension back together.

Trying to decide whether to use Bedlinder(Raptor, etc).  Anybody have any comments about Bedliners?

Edited by toolman
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PROJECT TIP:   I am posting this tip as it may be very helpful to a lot of people.  RESCUE BIT is a high speed cutting bit that will cut through broken taps, extractors just about anything.  Check the video out at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkIH7DhQJzA

In my case, I was tapping out the bolt holes of my struts.   Of course,  while tapping the last bolt hole, the 6mm x 1.0 tap broke.

IMG_6739.thumb.JPG.7774a58b43e3ecfa28ad7c08aa04ac0b.JPG Pic of the Broken tap

 

This is a picture of a 1/8" RESCUE BIT with cutting edge on both sides.   The 1/8" version must be used with a 1/8" adaptor to use it

in a 1/4" die grinder.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  IMG_6740.thumb.JPG.794a3abee038d602b5daf9202dc03739.JPG Pic of 1/8 to 1/4" adaptor.    Rescue Bits also use to have 1/4" burrs (single and double cut version) too.    Now the Rescue Bits can be found

on Amazon and Ebay but only here and there.   I don 't think the company still exists.   I do keep one around for emergencies like this one.

IMG_6745.thumb.JPG.6d35c46152ed3db448cffe0a7b99a927.JPGAfter drilling a hole in the center of the tap.   I use a small sharp punch to collapse the walls of the tap inward.

IMG_6741.thumb.JPG.d335173d44ed45c125c41997336e89cd.JPG

Here is one the larger pieces of the tap that was removed from the hole.

 

IMG_6743.thumb.JPG.38746428e2137b6a0a369b8890af6460.JPG

After removing all remains of the tap,  I carefully tapped the hole with a new 6 x 1.0mm tap.

 

IMG_6746.thumb.JPG.f32b8fd49b4a29895d0c1ead7ae90954.JPG

  

Success-bolt was threaded in!!     It is important to  carefully follow the instructions that come with the Rescue Bit.  Also. the die grinder

must be capable of 25,000 RPM.   High speed and the bit design is what allows the Rescue Bit to do what other bits can not do.    I  hope some of you find this tip helpful.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      

IMG_6738.JPG  Rescue Bits costs about $60 online.

Edited by toolman
video correction

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    The door hinges for both Left and Right sides were top coated with Polyurethane paint.   

IMG_0005.thumb.JPG.eb57180d175a5319b0aa2671aed3ddbc.JPG

 

Shop Tip- Removing and Installing a 240Z hood by yourself

Place a Plywood on top of the Left and Right fenders.   Put hood in the closed position.

IMG_0014.thumb.JPG.bb61750003ec677a4502cee3b6cb805e.JPG Put card board or padded mat under plywood to prevent scratching the paint.

 

Raise hood to open position.     Loosen all four hood bolts but do not remove.

IMG_0016.thumb.JPG.c0fd84a4f8d70e69e7d311d11ac95376.JPG  Remove both hood front bolts.

Now tilt the rear of the hood downward till the hood contacts the plywood.   Then remove the rear hood bolts as the hinge and plywood will support the weight of the hood.   The hood can be lifted off from either side of the car.   Hood installation will be the reverse procedure.

 

The next thing to do to spraying Raptor Liner in the fender and wheel wells.

IMG_0025.thumb.JPG.6ec744091eb2489ce2989b3441005020.JPG   This Raptor liner was the 2 bottle kit with Liner, hardener and color toner..

This kit costs about $100 including freight on Ebay.

 

Masking the hood to prevent overspray going all over the place.

IMG_0030.thumb.JPG.9cacc071a89d12006a434ad31d7bd227.JPG

 

The interior sides of the hood and fenders were sanded with 150 grit sand paper then wipe down with paint prep solution.

IMG_0029.thumb.JPG.b411cebf05a5607042940c6cab51083f.JPG

 

view of Left side Wheel Well Housing afterspraying.

IMG_0031.thumb.JPG.a3ca1e4441388ca2797fe1dfa2c7b644.JPG

 

Right side Wheel Well Housing after spraying Liner

IMG_0032.thumb.JPG.34553855172b08d7cad6d227fade9630.JPG

 

IMG_0037.thumb.JPG.fa2a106d6a3e2d309ceff88af1c99a54.JPG  Right side fender interior view

 

Inside Right Door view

IMG_0038.thumb.JPG.f9da1d1941062e81576b72047254584d.JPG

 

Closeup view of the Raptor Liner on Wheel Hosing

IMG_0035.thumb.JPG.53bf7d08db1aff97e66332e07344b781.JPG

 

Inside Right Fender

IMG_0039.thumb.JPG.decb65819453bc946faeadb673cce226.JPG  Note- Liner even covers patch area.

 

Left side Wheel Well Housing

 

IMG_0040.thumb.JPG.75ddb32dd92765ce57fcb8185c9d7204.JPG

 

The Raptor Liner can be applied by hand roller or sprayed.   A Schutz gun is most commonly used to apply the liner.   HLVP spray gun with 2.0 nozzle can be used if liner is reduced by 20%.  This method would provide a smoother finish( not as rough}.   After one hour, the liner is dry to touch.  It, however. takes a full week to completely cure.   I used only one bottle of

Raptor Liner so far.   The remaining bottle will be used for the rear wheel housing after I finish flare modifications.

 

 

Edited by toolman
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I just got back from Tokyo.  I managed to go Japan's Largest Automotive Store in Japan Autobacs Shinome located near Tokyo Bay.   The garage is on the bottom of this three level store.   The main store is on the Second floor and has a coffee shop there.  the third floor is the high performance stuff.

      

 

Snap On tools on display in glass cases.  Snap On Tools tools sell for twice the US price.

22DC88D6-9B5B-4706-8C80-04E02D3CC18F.thumb.jpeg.80b195e5723925f6e6d881bcefa1ba3b.jpegThat Snap On tiny tool box toy sells for $140!!

Snap Tools on display.

    On the third floor, the high performance parts and accessories were on display.  They had the latest GPS., stereo ,DVD, and LED lights.

And, of coarse, the garage downstairs could install whatever you purchase.

 

68A67B68-3236-4609-84D7-86C37A93E07C.thumb.jpeg.20e45e866caf105cc71c1a0968da521e.jpeg   Helmets, gloves and gear. the Black one cost about $5600 USD

 

 

 

64ED69F9-C9DC-4BD0-AE5F-E02FCC4BCBC8.thumb.jpeg.e8f18f6bd9b66e8f0a6c385908b1d900.jpeg     Steering wheels (Momo one was $300 USD.

 

24BB04A0-536A-4ACC-8109-2FD6EE54960C.thumb.jpeg.66904cc9182df2f108bb475c290ed578.jpeg      Racing suspension parts-NHW strut was $1350 USD

 

 

There was a rear driving simulator that anyone could try for a price.  It had loud speakers 3 TV screens and air shocks to give the real.feeling of a race car.0E6DF1BB-6A4C-46F4-810E-9387E4A8D5C5.thumb.jpeg.65ee8c404f4dcbf431e06417246e4ac3.jpeg

 

         I think the price was $50 for 30 minutes.    Unfortunately, I found about the simulator too later as I had to get back to Shinjuku before the afternoon rush on the trains.   Passengers are really packed like sardines during rush hour!!!!!

 

3ECA51C7-2D57-4889-ACF0-0EBBC1B8E39F.jpeg   The store is located near Odiba theme park by Tokyo Bay near Tokyo Disneyland.

 

 

 

364696C2-5018-42F9-A588-920AF6D0CE46.jpeg  Front Entrance of the store

 

 

670E76D9-CEE1-4D98-8923-DF3D2206F0BE.jpeg  The Garage Area is Super Clean and well lite.

 

 

06CB1B2F-D133-437A-ACE2-BCD925C76441.jpeg   Mechanics even wear white gloves when working.

 

 

 

84C5893D-C062-4F3B-82CB-0EA535E7B603.jpeg   Only High End Wheels no China Stuff here. 

12D96AF6-A4C5-4149-BF55-A1748A7D493B.jpeg  !/6 scale Skyline motor  very detailed.

 

0CED514D-31A1-4E3E-BA10-E13D953D8E94.jpeg   Bicycle and accessories

55A01ABA-9039-42E6-857F-D6554332B637.jpeg    Aisles of assorted stuff

 

There is a large area with only automotive books and magazines next to their coffee shop.

DA0984B4-4DBB-4FFF-912F-145CDDEBA98C.jpeg   Everthing automotive under the Sun is here.

09FE9955-ED71-4E6E-B5AC-82C45FA557D9.jpeg  Leather jackets

E2FE3566-2226-46FE-B9CA-4FF21EEBCF1D.jpeg Kids $500 electric

cars.

 

 

4B80FD36-4F0E-41D0-BC18-6BC8B29001B1.jpeg   Kids seats

 

 

2BC444E6-78A3-4F50-AD59-CA73300EB7BB.jpeg more seats and seat covers

 

 

 

F4E7BD21-AAB1-497C-BF8A-1D5D3CD40D63.jpeg  $1000  Mavics RC Drones

 

4D6D1888-1503-4F85-9136-5858BF52D40E.jpeg  This Skyline motor

sells for $300 but is well detailed.

 

B9024A99-255A-4973-AD84-E812E867A989.jpeg  wiper blades

 

0B8FF908-EF1A-4AF6-9920-B1F71F8F3EA9.jpeg  Pet accessories

 

 

 

0E7D1092-10FE-4B43-8FC0-992BB8402804.jpeg  Snap On floor jacks-the silver one sells for$200(about $100 in US)

 

Can't wait to start back to working on my Z.    SEMA SHOW 2019 is less than a month away. Viva Las Vegas!!

110C824D-095D-4BCC-8FCF-BB3A5FC18ECF.jpeg

Edited by toolman
text and pics mixed up

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   Back home to get working on the Z.

IMG_0145.thumb.JPG.1981f934a72132ae964e833af4d2a71a.JPG  From Epoxy Primer to Body Filler.

 

Body Filler used to cover minor imperfections.

1239047732_IMG_0144(1).thumb.JPG.a328f297e395aa5d251677700ca99dc9.JPG Sanding Body Filler

 

Then paining Polyurethane Primer Sealer on top of that bodywork.

IMG_0148.thumb.JPG.7abd3d8564d4d788d17204be3aabe6b0.JPG

 

Not to forget the inside of the front fenders,  the sealing of them was next thing to do.

The wheel well deflector plate stripped and painted.   I decided to use rubber weather stripping.  I found 3M "D" shaped weather stripping on

Ebay for $13 for 8 feet.

1725099736_IMG_0149(1).thumb.JPG.b8124574643f1f0a257e140adb01ac7b.JPG  The hollow inside made very soft and

a good weather stripping for the wheel well.

IMG_0153.thumb.JPG.3dfe21b544edde1e428d9535d11a9b93.JPG  front view

 

IMG_0157.thumb.JPG.6faf1d032ee27b3b4e8c3db30093480c.JPG back view

 

Previously I had planned to use Dynamat or similar foil type of insulation for the floor and roof.   However, I decided to use Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation paint.   It can lower the interior temperature 20 to 30 degrees. One gallon costs $100 on Amazon.  They also sell sound insulation paint(costs $100 gal) but it must be applied first(before heat insulation).

IMG_0185.thumb.JPG.f5b89d08bf5af278d9acedf332532013.JPG

 

Had planned to spray it on with a Schulz under coating gun but the coating was too thick for the gun.  So I used rollers and a brush to

apply it.   A cordless drill was utilized to stir the paint.   Use low speed and in Reverse so the particles are not damaged while mixing.

Application was done in two .020 coats allowing the first coat to dry to the touch.   Curing will take possible a week to completely cure  depending on weather conditions.

 

IMG_0165.thumb.JPG.7402f58fcd9057951f203f36e820fffb.JPG

 

All holes must be masked off to prevent over spray.

IMG_0169.thumb.JPG.8ece892e87d6afac1726db6984ec0ecf.JPG  Areas to be painted are scuff sanded and all threaded holes are plugged.

 

IMG_0195.thumb.JPG.2e8eb62aa503e87f386d271ef6dca81a.JPG After painting

 

Ceramic Coating was not difficult to apply.   Cleanup should be done quickly as the insulation dries relatively fast.

 

IMG_0191.thumb.JPG.2f95007819d0d2ecd0451a293d9e4f40.JPG  Pic of roof coated

 

IMG_0194.thumb.JPG.0add3d0203fff10975030c284ca29e41.JPG Pic of seat area

 

IMG_0193.thumb.JPG.7bda7646c88968d36530d4efcc0453ec.JPG  Passenger side compartment

 

After the Ceramic Insulation is cured, I will probably top coat it with Polyurethane White Single Stage Paint for added protection.

 

 

Edited by toolman
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Lizardskin is good stuff! It does work on sound and heat insulation. Also VERY lightweight. The urethane is a good idea. I used a black single stage industrial urethane on my JK project over the Lizardskin.

 

Your project is really coming along nicely.

Edited by jpndave

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  Just returned from the Sema Show 2019.   The Sema Show gets bigger and bigger every year.

  IMG_0354.thumb.JPG.1233fad099e15dd7101b13d77c8cf59b.JPG

 

IMG_0387.thumb.JPG.fd2a3ff9c40f575793959fdfebe9abf3.JPG

 

This 240z took part in the Optima Ultimate Street Car event.  It had a Webber carbs and slightly  modified suspension.

IMG_0263.thumb.JPG.a721b562d1c8d87fd0f09301e8852b04.JPG

 

IMG_0285.thumb.JPG.a6c0202a2333f713f8696d2013c63fc4.JPG        IMG_0284.thumb.JPG.891c3a25101771533ee663eca3e30eee.JPG

Early Datsun Roadster with a Honda twin cam motor conversion with fender flares.

 

IMG_0283.thumb.JPG.1b74e4eea8fa945f4d862eeb7fc23b00.JPG  Four passenger dune buggy

 

IMG_0286.thumb.JPG.e5c75fa031d30c1ac67b4970d8bff3e6.JPG A  240Z racer with carbon fiber body parts.

 

IMG_0287.thumb.JPG.ba8207a3df0affc778afe6fd7787a6b6.JPG  Powered with a 

Chevy LS motor.

 

IMG_0266.thumb.JPG.f93faf99fd4a38e282168a9adc911eef.JPG With this kit, you can pull dents without grinding your paint -Glue Dent Repair Kit for $600.

 

IMG_0267.thumb.JPG.97cf57ea27be77f5a3b2baf07c65833e.JPG  Water jet Cutting Machine-Note the cutout samples on the table.

 

IMG_0261.thumb.JPG.669b4bf39c509ebcb5db61c53483dd0a.JPG

The very popular John Force 300mph Funny Car

 

 I had Lunch at one of the many Sema Food Trucks.

IMG_0277.thumb.JPG.d3e94298cf123db16935e80c1792b265.JPG the long line of customers

IMG_0278.thumb.JPG.d4a36d3ae78bc5faabedb6b660eca7bc.JPG Spicy Ribeye steak with rice for $12.  Ymmmm!

 

1970 replica of Pete Brock's Datsun 510

IMG_0327.thumb.JPG.e2bc9076180ebd7f317c9f0cec85c934.JPG

1482079989_IMG_0328(1).thumb.JPG.a8304725d554f5fb57d55a77c4d895e7.JPG The spec sheet of the 510.

 

Harbor Freight introduced their new tool line.

IMG_0306.thumb.JPG.867c9367ceb5666dc414194884ed4fb3.JPG

 

IMG_0297.thumb.JPG.36d1c908107732df3602dd18e7897068.JPG

Their lifetime ICON tool box costs $10,000 but remember Harbor Freight usually has 20% discount coupons at their stores.   The box was 

very well made and about half the price of a Snap On similar one.

329734549_IMG_0298(1).thumb.JPG.4458c14bb1e786801a1cc931312a9440.JPG Also had ratchets,sockets, wrenches,etc.

 

IMG_0301.thumb.JPG.87479dcb97da941dae3b658fceb52e33.JPG Their line of tool carts.

 

IMG_0303.thumb.JPG.05cd7b427656c65f33f3b1740dffdce2.JPG  Their MIG and TIG welders were low priced too.

  

Their Full Function Scanner with Blue Tooth was only $999  perfect of the Do It Yourselfer.

IMG_0304.thumb.JPG.78208d007f7af9f85336e88e93f1ee17.JPG

 

IMG_0305.thumb.JPG.2c082539ee147a294e2a476ff06be722.JPG Floor jacks and jack stands

 

1521541274_IMG_0329(1).thumb.JPG.2d4a229d6fe82c7c7a38d528cf43b439.JPG  Beautiful Old Datsun Roaster 

469783358_IMG_0330(1).thumb.JPG.61c7c817e70295d0d876ea9dbf3e6173.JPG With a late model Nissan Twin Cam motor.

IMG_0308.thumb.JPG.6d615f2524b3bdbeb6c89370a6f8ba3d.JPG Mobile Spray Paint Booth

IMG_0309.thumb.JPG.89c405a848f02980386e724e8ac8d4bc.JPG

 

Had fresh air intake and exhaust filter system for $20,000 for average size booth,

 

A neat Rat Rod '59 Chevy El Camino with supercharged motor

IMG_0314.thumb.JPG.f358559fab155910f070a619bb9f986d.JPG  Super Low!!

 

IMG_0315.thumb.JPG.63f3c2e33663d113d480041a6d07c24b.JPG  Chopped and Shortened

 

This booth has all sorts of Illuminated Car Signs.

IMG_0312.thumb.JPG.548ec544fa853fccca8c22535cdeb067.JPG

 

IMG_0321.thumb.JPG.3c83f626d28dc6ecf3cdb8caac4862cc.JPG  Toyota Nascar race car

 

IMG_0320.thumb.JPG.e947ba90f1457f8e70dfed66b07dc2c8.JPG  2020 Toyota Supra

IMG_0316.thumb.JPG.413e107960635615e2e12ac7db0e0a5e.JPG  370Z with carbon fiber parts

IMG_0293.thumb.JPG.648578b768e5ff51b81abcdda4d0f910.JPG  NISSAN NISMO Skyline All Wheel Drive

 

IMG_0294.thumb.JPG.7edbf16e1775f98d36d43980ceae7eea.JPG Front view

 

IMG_0318.thumb.JPG.95d4037d0cf1268b3cc8f9ea04ebc4d1.JPG  Full Functional Race Car Simulator at Supra booth

 

 

IMG_0333.thumb.JPG.b85bde8afd05f402116f5500de244e05.JPG  Beautiful Honda Z50 Mini Bike

 

1733963424_IMG_0334(1).thumb.JPG.3f848383a1238bdd4135a95290819bc6.JPG Another Honda 50cc Monkey bike

 

1095394930_IMG_0339(1).thumb.JPG.911b5f9e693824866c69c1cf41d82565.JPG A Wild 65 Ford Van with supercharged motor.

2108763011_IMG_0340(1).thumb.JPG.bf6448c7d2302d16845183df974ce4b6.JPG Supercharged motor with long headers

 

IMG_0335.thumb.JPG.c4f21d9b39f62f13947c692b7d0d877d.JPG Old Honda S80 with flares

 

JooTool is a specialized small polisher for restoring small car parts.  IMG_0348.thumb.JPG.8bae06e90e713449f0e4d838f69482f0.JPG Also, sharpens knives.

3M provides various grinding, sanding and polishing discs for this machine.

IMG_0347.thumb.JPG.17c62787d79678f2e1ac653c0ee39e2b.JPG

 

IMG_0352.thumb.JPG.997ee3c33763f88a1ab0c6915a105942.JPGOutside the halls, more booths and cars

 

This van had Four Wheel Track drive so it could go almost everywhere.

IMG_0375.thumb.JPG.6558162984843a3b4357e456760f4915.JPG

 

Robot sanding machine made by PRO SPOT.  Even had vacuum system to catch the bondo dust.

IMG_0270.thumb.JPG.7e2a49965c89de3dee43c2686fd407b7.JPG

 

Plastic welding machine with Nitrogen gas to create strong plastic welds

IMG_0276.thumb.JPG.c89a8409808b1554a0db0f9824396c59.JPG  plastic welding made by urethane Supply.

 

IMG_0355.thumb.JPG.0c135cb18c1457037fbd451466ce4210.JPG more cars & people

 

Ford Mustang one wild ride with tire burning etc.

IMG_0359.thumb.JPG.f4243eda082ef609c2f6f08be1b47987.JPG

 

IMG_0376.thumb.JPG.89c170375e0691c9770089f499654e7c.JPG  More trucks

 

Monster trucks,too

IMG_0381.thumb.JPG.aad7aea9bb71f8eab6f5759575f20bd0.JPG

 

  IMG_0382.thumb.JPG.c4da90373dea94b3e8e53d31e7eff2d9.JPG Its motor and suspension huge too.

 

Hurst Hemi under Glass Barracuda was there too.

IMG_0393.thumb.JPG.80976ca8bac1d370ce4161daa1340315.JPG

 

Skelton car

IMG_0383.thumb.JPG.48cdd771694cda18b0501575654ef973.JPG

 

IMG_0384.thumb.JPG.6a104aee45f646e371be78d39ce7ed0c.JPG  its supercharged motor

 

High and Might truck 4 x 4 

IMG_0396.thumb.JPG.3231c321cd18faed29ae1b8ccbdcb90a.JPG

 

James Dean Replica Porsche covertible

IMG_0391.thumb.JPG.e2f61f89ada6b686964c789182347ed2.JPG

Hoogan Pit area and Burn Yard

IMG_0377.thumb.JPG.0c373dae0f88542657947a0947e97d5b.JPG  

 

IMG_0379.thumb.JPG.f3b6dad792fa99ca5b3ad4a7e9352942.JPG

 

Hoogan put on a Wild Tire Burnout Show but I missed it as I thought it was over.   When I was on the top of the Monorail

Platform, the Burn Out Show happened.  But if you want to see the Show go to:  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NAzAI8pxyLs   Hoogan guys did a preshow walk through and did crazy Burnouts and Drifting there!!!!

      Now, Back to working on my 240Z

  

 

Edited by toolman
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That was the price that they quoted me.   The major problems with this portable spray booth is it is made out plastic and it does not 

have a fire suppression system.   Most local fire departments would not allow such spray booths to be used.   If some one was caught inside in one that caught fire, they would be trapped under a collapsing structure.

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Ebay has a lot of portable China Spray booths that run from $1000 to $2000.  Most are a little more than inflatable bounce things.

The one at the SEMA is manufactured in Texas by Mobile Environmental Solutions.   Single booth 23' x15' was $9995.00 and twin booth 23' x 48' was $19995.   They seem to be made of material similar to those auto paint shop curtains that divide up shop areas.   According to them, the booth is made of materials that pass NFPA (National Fire Protection Association)701 test methods 1 &2.  TV's Garage Squad show  is shown using their booths.   But I would check with your local fire department 

first before purchasing one.

 

 

 

Edited by toolman
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Finishing under the front fenders

    Decided to make the upper front fender splash deflectors.  Bought garage door bottom edge weather stripping from Home Depot for $12.

IMG_0212.thumb.JPG.27f006a552f7272b35bb8b2c37be7451.JPG Used a knife to remove both vertical edges to end up with a flat rubber strip.

 

I bent strips of 2" wide sheet metal to create a "S" shaped clip to hold the deflector on the fender support.   As I was making the clips, I could adjust the holding tension of the clips by adjusting their gaps.

IMG_0216.thumb.JPG.ba348f0f410d73cf1a86ef6aaa1a0ab7.JPG

 

Fender upper side deflector installed.

IMG_0214.thumb.JPG.2a69cec055481d15dd36b855bed716e0.JPG

 

IMG_0215.thumb.JPG.0dc705d5997f5d0834c203c24de1d1db.JPG Closeup view of clips

Note- The clips edges are bent up slightly to prevent sharp edge from cutting the rubber deflector.

 

  I ordered a set of Dimple Dies consisting of sizes from 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" and 1".   Using these dies make flat sheet metal a lot stronger and looks "real cool" too.   The 240z uses this type of metal forming on its inside rocker panels ,strut supports,etc.

IMG_0439.thumb.JPG.5b628f4027d88f6481150b546dbae318.JPG

 

First, thing to do, is drill a pilot hole in the sheet metal.  In this case,  the 1/2" Dimple die requires 5/16" pilot hole.

IMG_0441.thumb.JPG.ccb67a172429e6e71f29b7d0bb2a885b.JPG

 

Next,  assemble the Cutter blade and bottom die with the 10MM head bolt.

IMG_0442.thumb.JPG.f24ea27b1af69e6e5b5b21372b2b315d.JPG  As you tighten the bolt, the Cutter blade also turns and cuts a hole into the sheet metal.

Continue to tighten the bolt until the Cutter cuts through the sheet metal.

 

Once, the 1/2" hole is made, you reassemble the forming die with the bottom die.

IMG_0443.thumb.JPG.91b6453e1ff09859f4d46b74cea3f7f7.JPG Tighten down the Forming Die until it

is flush with the surface of the sheet metal.

IMG_0444.thumb.JPG.1011eddc8a0aca066e6d5e81dfcabc17.JPG

Disassemble the tool and inspect the Dimple Form.  If it's not formed enough, reassemble the die and tighten it down more.

 

IMG_0446.thumb.JPG.19484103fb938de06b55e7dfaafe1872.JPG Bottom View

 

IMG_0447.thumb.JPG.c16e414640ff9fd0a4b64bed1c00361b.JPG   Side View of the finished !/2" Dimple.

 

I will probably use the Dimple Dies to create some support brackets in the interior and maybe construct a Triangular Engine Compartment Support with them.

 

Edited by toolman
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  A problem occurred with the weather stripping that was glued to the rear inner fender deflectors.   The adhesive was strong enough to hold the

weather stripping on.   The solution was to use "T" type  weather stripping clips( from Chysler) to do the job.

  Got them from Ebay.

IMG_0479.JPG.1f3b00a8aaae66496685c54a73712d16.JPG

3/16" holes were drilled into the deflector plate.

 

 

A small scissors was used to create a "Diamond" shaped hole in the weather stripping above the corresponding hole.

 

Twist the "T" clips into the hole In the weather stripping.

 

IMG_0483.JPG.174e0bd8e06d2cf94cd23ac7815b7969.JPG

Push the "T" clip completely into the mounting hole.

 

IMG_0484.JPG.a95e8c230c7edeaf6743ce797dfc4f22.JPG

Pic of the "T" clip fully installed.

 

IMG_0486.JPG.79b15f9f0afab1d55faecbc8a7f1b55c.JPG

The Lower fender flap was installed using two "Christmas Tree" type retainers(from Ebay).

The retainers replace screws which tend to fall out.

 

 

 

IMG_0481.JPG

Edited by toolman
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The original door glass molding was in terribly shape.

543754130_IMG_0476(1).JPG.635ec26f64860989f69157fe48d7b88d.JPG

 

First thing to do was removing the old weather stripping.  The old weather stripping is attached using staples.   The best way to remove the molding is to twist the weather stripping with pliers to continue to "roll up" the weather stripping.

595793597_IMG_0475(1).JPG.8a1ae3e4fe3f635fe1a6961e53d2c5d8.JPG

 

If the stainless has scratches or small dents, repair them first.  Then, sand with 400 grit sand paper then slowly progress to 1000 grit.   Then, use a cloth buffing wheel prepared with Stainless Steel Polishing Rouge to get it to look like new.

IMG_0631.JPG.ad5fe03cc0cca577f277dec7324a70f6.JPG

 

I tried using pop rivets to hold the weather stripping on the molding but the rivet head protruded too far inward.

IMG_0492.JPG.7d0ddc0ea0bcd679226ff21563ef5f57.JPG

 

Instead, 3M spray adhesive was applied to under the weather tripping and on to the molding surface.

After waiting 30 minute for adhesive to dry, the weather stripping was installed on the molding.

IMG_0498.JPG.c89c75e5fa9fb595488e16aa6a746b53.JPG

 

 

Cross section view of the weather stripping glued on the molding.

IMG_0634.JPG.2d35e51f034ac6b46e78aec02c805f16.JPG

 

polished molding and new weather stripping.

IMG_0522.JPG.b1889038a5d5725765fb54d92c64e49d.JPG

 

Molding installed on door

IMG_0503.JPG.ac1e4abfc70ba1215bef28461db56899.JPG

 

IMG_0504.JPG.440ed394be3a0b2f688a5e2a483c6719.JPG Used Chrysler Christmas Tree clips(from Ebay} to hold lower fender flap.

Edited by toolman
pic correction and corrected their order

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