Brad-ManQ45

Since he's using the stock ecu/afm, no adjustment needed - if he were running speed density - definitely! I still think it is the afm to turbo boot - any hybrid I've seen you have to cut the boot back to enlarge the opening, and to do that you have to cut the spring. My car acted EXACTLY like he is saying - after you're off idle and accelerating you didn't know there was a problem....

Christoc: Sorry, just got back into town and my camera is chargine..... The J pipe is attached using the front hole on the bracket itself There are 3 bosses for attaching brackets to the intake on the edge of the intake manifold - these are all in line. The middle boss is where mine is attached. This is actually located just rearward of the bright manifold vacuum tap (which onmy car goes to the fuel pressure regulator) in your picture (but at the edge of the intake). I was out of town on business and had to stay longer than expected. Hope this helps....

Good call Mario - I remember that under boost, the manual says the ECU goes into open loop mode, reading from the tables...

I'm out of town right now - thank GOD for wireless internet.... I wouldn't worry about bolting it to the intake as much as getting a good seal at the turbo and the TB. It looks like the J pip needs to be rotated a bit and moved a bit toward the fender in order to line up properly. I'm heading home this a-noon, so can get a pic posted tomorrow - maybe tonite - depends on if there's enuf light when I get back....

Check to make sure that the boot from your AFM to turbo is not split. (assuming you are using stock ZXT setup) When I had my T3/T4 installed (living in a condo - no place to work), the Z shop that did the work had to trim the boot. When they did it, they cut the spring inside the boot that keeps it from collapsing too far back, and I developed a split in that area - on the underside where it wasn't obvious! A trip to a Z yard got another for $25, and I did it the correct way - no problems now.

The screws go through the grills....

I've had 4 of 'em for years and love 'em!

I'll measure my box tomorrow for you - I wouldn't put great speakers behind the seats - you're only using them for "fill" - most of the highs go away because they're mounted so low and aimed at your butt...I used some 6.5" Pioneer co-ax's and have been more than happy. Of course, my system is more for quality than quantity - loud enough is able to hear everything wih the t-tops off at speed!

If you want, I can measure the 1.75 cu ft box I had made for my '83ZXT that holds a single 12" Kicker Competition. I mounted the amp for it, along with a stiffening cap and cd changer to it.

1986 - 1989.

I have a pair of 5.25" Ads mids mounted in custom boxes bolted onto the doors., and tiltable tweeters mounted about 6" from them higher on the door. The boxes basically fit between the seat and the front edge of the door and stick out about 2 1/2"... Very little cutting of metal involved (if any).

jimzdat: Do those EZ Harness's come with the ground wires unlike the Painless kits?

DD = '96 Town Car Weekend car = '94 Q45a

Dude - the Fiero and MR2's came out at the same time - the Fiero may have been first....

Yes, they were available on one or two Chrysler products. Too small for our use though....

But then he won't be distracted - just disgusted....possibly wretching....

I'm glad this subject came up, because I may be looking to get a diesel powered van of some kind. I had stopped by a turbo shop here in Marietta with Warren and heard some stories about some of the diesel engines out there being a real horror story for servicing. Seems one particular motor, no matter what you had to do you had to remove everything and pay out the but for it also - can't remember the particulars, but believe it was one of the Ford (International?) engines.... My dad used to be a purchasing manager for Cummins back in the 50's so I'm kinda partial to 'em to start off with. DR_Hunts' comments were very enlightening....

KnockSense can utilize the stock ZXT knock sensor - which is tuned for the L28 already....

Go to any hydraulics supply shop and they should have the stuff - Royal Brass is where I got mine in Marietta, GA. A LOT cheaper than $7+ bux a 1/2 foot....

HALL... The VR conditioning circuit in MS converts the sine wave output of the VR sensor to a square wave output. The optical sensor already outputs a square wave....same as a Hall sensor.

Only if he can get the car to hook up!!!

My '83ZXT runs but has paint leprosy and a few rust areas. My '75 has had its' engine and tranny out for 3 years, awaiting time for subframes, pans, and rear qtr, along with typical front fender rust spots.

Excellent Phil! Did you pick up much grunt down low/before/off boost? Does the car seem to handle everyday driving any better? I know you're stoked.

For $125 more - maybe less, you can get a 60 gal 240V Husky, HF, CH, Coleman compressor that wil be WAY better... HF has 20% off coupons, sales are run a lot...

I bought that kit and replaced everything but the valve and adapter - the hose is just junk and I wasn't happy with the compression fittings either....Mine works fine - I have my compressor in the basement where it is cool and air conditioned, and my tank stays dry...