madkaw

Truly --WOW. I commend the ability to brainstorm and then fabricate something like this. Makes me proud to be part of the Datsun crowd at Hybridz. Subscribed!

Worked great for me - easy, cheap, less wires, less weight, etc....

not interested in this group buy, but would comment on the size. I run the Rota RB's with the same exact size. The wheel will make contact with the front spring perch on a 240-UNLESS you pound the the spring perch flat on the wheel side. This will gain you 1/4" clearance . This is with aftermarket springs on stock perches-your results may vary. Tire size will be limited to 225/45/17 . I run 245/45/17 and have rubbing issues on the rear inner fender during bumps. I am in the process of reducing to 225's which should resolve the issue. Lastly, I can keep my center caps on-not like the guys running the bigger RBR's FYI

I have no idea of the costs for creating a website, but they did themselves no justice the route they took. It does kind of make things 'cheeesy' as far as the presentation. Glad to see the products and hope they do well.

Well a member made me aware of these guys datsunzfiberglass You can try googling them, but they don't have what I consider their own website. It's almost frustrating to look at their products, but they do make a LOT of stuff for the Z -INCLUDING dashes.

Well as luck would have it my head is in the shop so I can't measure anything now, but I can find out for you in a day or so

The wear was so even on all the rockers I was beginning to believe they were machined that way. The wear was significant and I can't help to think it would have been heard while running. I think Delta was half the price of Schneider .

This might be a good thread for this question. Putting together a bunch of rockers to send to Delta and I pulled some off of an early e88 . The rockers had a low spot on the surface that rode on the cam lobe. The 'low spot' looked like an intentional groove machined into the center of the rocker face to hold oil? I have never seen this before. At first I thought I had a bad rocker, then I realized they were a that way. Any comments- sorry I should have taken a pic

My comments enlight of recent issues. Bad rockers will ruin your day. Don't assume new is good . Schnedier cams told me that they can have them done , but Delta did the job well and cheaper then who they contract. When degreeing my cam and not coming up with exact card specs - Schneider said that te rocker ratios can sometimes not be exact and this throws off the numbers. Identifying bad rockers is probably done better by using a engine builder familiar with Datsun geometry. My head was done by a local machinist that didn't look for a 'bad rocker' situation when putting together my head. Yes he got the wipe pattern perfect but didn't detect the improperly machined surfaces . Careful blaming rockers for cam failure. My Schneider cam - which has gotten some bad raps- looks great after 12k miles of hard driving. Too many variables involving to many builders gives too many outcomes. The cam is being sent to Schneider for an evaluation as we speak. We have also had issues with lash pads in the forums.

So I got to see the autoclave yesterday-WOW! Looked like a small submarine-LOL He was waiting on his compressor capable of pressurizing the capsule. He said the dashes would be made in this apparatus which would make a very clean precise part. Shawn is still very interested in doing the dash and is considering eating the mold costs and starting with or without me this winter. I told him my car was down for many months so I might consider pulling my dash to use for the mold. I told him that I would love see this happen and be able to display the results at Zcon 2015. The time frame seems very doable, but we know how these projects go. I still have a daughter to get married off in November before I can get serious about much.

When it time to show the money- then you see how bad they want them:)

So is there any more info on this dash? Does the dash bolt to the metal frame? What's the story on the open ends of the dash? Stock gauges fit in there?

This what I am running on my 2.4 now. I am getting ready to pull my head and I guess my question is can I reuse a HG like this? At 150.00$ and being used on a NA motor, I am hoping that I can get away with some copper spray and be done with it. Any opinions http://www.courtesyparts.com/l24/l26-head-gasket-required-p-227556.html

Well the engine is coming out and coming apart. I will update what I find. It is time to fix this cam/rocker geometry issue and hopefully fix everything else too.

Happy for you. Those long drawn out problems are what takes the fun out of this hobby. Thanks for posting as it will help someone else eventually.

Looks and sounds good

That is so true and funny!! To the OP- might want to tell dad that the tune is more important then the displacement.

If I had an issue with a plug that looked bad, i would change it with another cylinder that was firing well. I used a propane torch when I did clean up the plugs. Somewhere in there i just bought new ones to help eliminate a plug issue. I did drive the car here and there and it didn't run 'like it used to' . The frustration is the arbitrary nature of the issue. Yes swapping out carbs moved the issue, and then I think I have it fixed, then later on the same cylinder fouls again. I wouldn't be pulling the head for this but I have this other valve issue that needs to be addressed. Hell-I still have an oil leak from the rear main issue that I have never solved-it's almost embarassing. I will end up pulling the whole motor and putting it on a stand to fix everything.

It doesn't make sense that the pistons won;t work or you need to cut reliefs on a stock rebuild. I would say that the cam is not timed properly and making you think there is an issue-when there's not. Recheck your valve timing.

Inline6---I have actually done many of the things you have mentioned. From the paper feeler gauge to the caliper measurements on the linkage rods. I am confident that the rod linkage is properly set-up. The one worn ball socket is not that bad and have adjusted to where the throttle plates all open at the same time. I am confident that the carb return springs are intact and work well. As far as throttle plates being the same on the carb, I am not as confident because i haven't come up with a best way to measure besides eyeball with a light. To the naked eye the bores are the same. I would think it would be noticable to the naked eye if this was actually causing the cylinder to almost foul out. I have taken the carbs apart at least twice and blown them out. As far as pilot adjustments, they have always been adjusted out the same amount of turns with good results. These carbs ran great!! I have since removed the intake and could find nothing with the gasket. What I didn't like was what I saw inside the combustion chamber from my view thru the ports. Looks like oily grunge sprayed against the side of the chamber. Not heavy, but a pattern on certain cylinders that make me wonder what is causing this. Is this oil from the piston side or the valve side? My plugs don't indicate a oil foul, it cleans off too easy-like carbon. I know I have issues with my rockers being improperly machined and this manifests itself with uneven pressure on the top of my valves(lash pads). Does this have any play in this, I don't know. At this point I am about ready to pull the head and get this issue fixed. I know I have an issue with these rockers, but what other issues will it cause. I need to remedy this because it will only get worse and cause damage that might be fixable. I need to make sure my guides haven't been damaged and my cam also. I know it sounds like desperation, but these tangent issues complicate troubleshooting with the engine. This year is slowly becoming a wash with my Z.

Boy this is getting interesting. This sounds so much like my issue with 40's

No progress at all. My life is getting in the way, but it's an exceptional year for me. It will be winter before we move more on this. By then Shawn(FG guy) will be tooled up the way he needs to be.

The d585 coils I was referring to were advertised as cosmetic defects, but it was chipped plastic at the wire plug- no biggy

Check out my MS3X install thread . It has pics and might help with some options

...or you can make a bracket that doesn't involve detouring your heater hose. Buy d585 coils off if eBay for 15$ each shipped . Buy a stock set of wires for 30$. Buy a Hall effect sensor for 20$ and then drill a 36-1 pattern in your flywheel.