madkaw

I'm a little surprised the OP didn't do the drill trick after the first cam ate it. I did it just out of curiosity and to prove the double oiling method wasn't folk lore. If I had lost a cam, I would have had even more motivated. Since I am posting I am going to throw this out to you guys pertaining to oil pressure issues. If the block oil supply hole WAS enlarged for better oiling but the HG hole was not, would that somehow effect pressure?

It's funny I just happen to pop on this page to see you guys are discussing my same issue on the Mikunis!! Transition- transition- transition I have exhausted all angles to fix my lean issue in the 3500rpm range- sometimes a bit higher. It is only a problem during moderate acc under load. I have been up and down the scale of main air and main jet. I have increased float levels and have changed acc pumps and settings- nothing seems to eliminate this. I can watch my wideband gauge as AFRS climb 16+ or more during this lean- stumble area. The only thing I haven't tried is changing emulsion tubes, but not many options for that. So I am intrigued about this conversation of plugging some of the holes in the bleed pipe. Not sure if Webers are the same, but probably similar enough. I was thinking of modifying the bleed pipe, but wasn't sure of the theory of how it works. So shutting off some of the holes at the top of the bleed pipe should help draw more fuel in sooner??? I couldn't be happier with the way the carbs run everywhere else . Cruise is 14.5-15 and WOT is 13ish Idle I set at 13ish because the car starts best there.

When you tighten down the nut -at the end of the spindle bolt- you should be pressing the large washer against the metal sleeve tight enough to keep it from moving. The urethane bushing should pivot around the metal sleeve. The metal sleeve should be long enough so that the urethane bushing- flanges also have room to move-but not too much to create slop. Make sense? Sounds like you still have some bind somewhere

So there's no option to move the fuseable links forward where you have all that space?

I would disconnect the LCA's from the inboard side and check how the LCA pivots on the spindle. Hopefully your 'repair' on the hub didn't make things unsquare. Did you use a t square or something to make sure the spindle bushing surfaces were 90 degrees flat to the spindle bolt ? The forward and rearward bushing surfaces should also be parallel to each other and perpendicular to the spindle bolt. You might have filed or sanded at an angle .

I would bet your LCA is in a bind. I had squeaks from the same reason. Something's no pivoting correctly and the noise is transmitting everywhere.

Loved it. Sounds as obsessive about his car as I am of mine. My exhaust is not that loud, but duals sound great on these cars- regardless of the fact that it adds weight, not much performance gains, etc... I need to get a video of my car down the road- from the outside listening in:)

Got my coil bracket done-almost!! A few loose ends to do, but was excited to see stock LS1 wires worked out well. So no expensive custom sets to make. Got these wires on ebay(stock GM) for 24$ shipped!

Never had read much goo as far as knock sensors, the best one is the two on your head(ears). Guys have made homemade versions using a hearing-aid device they sell on the late night infomercials. Basically using the mic from the hearing aid and putting it in the engine compartment to pick up early signs of detonation noise. Then you where a ear piece or headsets inside the car. Just google and you will find. It seems this device is more reliable then a knock sensor.

Glad to give you your first ride in a Z. Like I said, just add about 50% HP to my HP and that's where you'll be:) Sorry about your bad luck having to go to Hawaii-I really feel for you. I'll be in franklin Monday to pick up a 280zx motor some guy is selling---more power!! Let me know if your still in town.

But the one singular ground point - according to MS 3 readings is better to be the engine.

Good thread to bring up, but not sure about the statement as far as the engine not being a good ground. All the MS stuff I read says to use a good engine ground and NOT the body/frame. As far as understanding ground loops - I am still unsure but reading more everyday. Matt Crammers book on high performance FI discusses ground loops and has some diagrams

I thought of doing the turbo route with my CAI valve cover, but thought better of trying to pressurizing mikuni's. You could use the valve cover with some minor welding by someone else. The tough part will be getting it to seal without having to come with more bolt down points. Not sure if my 6 bolts would seal to a backing plate during pressure.

So no mods to the stock FI? When you get into the power it might get interesting.

Fair labor rate for a very exclusive service. It is really cool that someone even offers this service. As stated earlier, bunch of cheap bastards own these cars-sorry guys, nothing personal. Hey, I try and save a buck anyway I can, but if you want to play, then pay! It's the same crowd that thinks a quality paint job can be had for 2000$. Try and get a body shop to take on the project, that's the first battle. Then fight to get in done in less then a year-and still pay 90$ an hour. I understand this is a forum to speak your mind, but don't let your personal financial perspective dictate your comments.

Really having a hard time deciding how to route all the wires. Maybe it's because I know I will be drilling holes into my firewall and its got to be right. From what I have been reading In regards to 'noise', it seems prudent to keep my sensor wiring well away from anything else. I plan on mounting the "box" to the trans tunnel passenger side close to the firewall - harnesses facing forward. I will split the main harness in 2 sections keeping the sensors apart from everything else. I will probably run the sensor wires thru my old choke cable hole and run the rest of the main harness thru another spot( maybe my A/C holes). Any suggestions

Wiring Products.com

Might check out my MS3 install thread. The fuseblocks I am using are nice

Jesh- are you running a big block- lol

You can fix that with 3.90 gears!

Your problem is that you only have 1 pipe- you need double your pleasure with duals!

LOL

Well I'm not going to start a new thread since this issue has been discussed many times already. What I was looking for was stock pinion angles of operation for the s-30. I'm looking for exact numbers from your stock machine which includes down angle of trans, angle of DS, angle of pinion. My case of vibration is at 75mph approx. I WAS running the RT mount with GM insulator, but I have gone back to stock diff mount and using thr Rt to sandwich things-so-i should be in stock location at that end. The other end is my BWT-5 which has a mount bracket modified to fit my s-30. I think my trans is hanging to low, but would like to hear what operating angle is on a stock Nissan trans in the right chassis to compare with mine. I have been reading site after site on pinion angles and realized that my earlier calculations were not right. I am revisiting this issue, but knowing what Nissan did with the short DS operating angles would help clue me in. Obviously by all the threads I have been reviewing there has been numerous issues with getting this right---probably because of our very short shaft.

Starting to find places for all the wires

Let me finalize my design complete with wires before I try and sell anything. What you see here is my 3rd version already. Next will be deciding how and where I am going to run my harness(s) thru the firewall. What have some of you guys done?