Neverdone

and yet you're choosing to fiddle with carbs which as far as I'm concerned, are a black magic box of the super unknown.

if that's the kind of car you're looking for, then that's a pretty good version of that car. You're not going to find a ton of "mostly stock" 280z's that are in that good of condition. Personally, I'd yank those bumpers off because they're hideous and I'd get rid of the white gauge faces immediately. BUT, different strokes for different folks.

https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/d/oregon-city-datsun-zxt-turbo-engine/6860089980.html Just wondering if you saw this. Good luck, you won't be the first person to do this swap. You won't be the last. You're not gonna find someone to hold your hand, but you will find everything you will need to know on how to do this swap on the internet (most of the information will be on this site).

If the paint is still in good condition, it sounds like he replaced almost everything you'd want to replace. The only Z cars that are rust free have had a down to the frame full restoration, so never believe that any of these cars are rust free. But it MAY have very minimal rust. You'd have to see it in person. The prices of Z cars have gone up drastically in the past 2-3 years, so 13k for a car that has been restored and is actually turn-key, ready to drive and enjoy seems pretty reasonable. It's possibly on the higher end, so the condition of everything, and all the interior "upgrades" better match what you think looks good too. They probably will to someone, but it may not be you. Most people want the 240z for several reasons, it being the first S30 and semi-more iconic, and also avoiding all emissions regulations due to it being made before 1975...but depending on where you live, that might not be an issue at all. The 280z is a better car (in my opinion), and things like the bumper can be changed out to copy the slimmer profile of the 240z with the right parts. without any pictures, it's a tough call though.

Weld nuts, or nutserts. As you'd be mounting directly into the thin sheet metal, I'd weld a backing plate onto the area you're thinking of mounting to.

and yet no love for it until 9 years after it was originally posted...

Have you thought about adding holes?

Car looks stunning! Congrats on not selling it! Now continue to not sell it. Make more videos.

That's not a Skyline, that's a S15 Silvia.

https://zparts.com/index.php/product/electronic-control-ecu-datsun-280zx/ Buying a new one isn't the most expensive thing you could do.

You should JUST do the body and suspension work that you wanted to do and see how much of that 10K is left...if any. You can also start looking how much all the parts you're going to need is going to cost, and try to include as much as you can. You'd need an engine, flywheel, clutch, transmission, driveshaft, probably a new diff if that hasn't been upgraded. This then means new fuel lines, a new fuel tank (or you can heavily modify the current one you have), new fuel pump, filters, pressure regulators, etc. Now that you're making way more power you may want to upgrade your axles and more then ideally your stub axles as they'll probably break first. You also might want to look into doing away with a stub axle all together as its antiquated and dangerous in high power situations. Wheels and tires alone can easily be 1500 by themselves. Good luck making your spreadsheet.

If you're still worried about heat, get some aluminized heat wrap to go around any parts that would be near the exhaust. https://www.jegs.com/i/Vibrant-Performance/231/25830/10002/-1 That's one example, there are loads more.

Everything CAN be fixed. I had a friend with a rather expensive Italian engine that was made out of unicorn horns or something that had been completely underwater and had MASSIVE pitting everywhere, and he had his machinist weld and smooth on it for a lot of expensive time, and eventually, after throwing enough money at it, it was fixed completely. You have a Honda engine though. Depending on how much you want to spend on this car, and how well everything else works on it, I would either just get a new engine, or scrap the whole car. While throwing a new head gasket on it and hoping for the best will probably work for a while, it seems like you're gonna be right back to square 1 in a while. You said this has already happened before with a new head gasket. I'd hate to take the engine completely apart, only to have it fail within the year or so. You've already got the engine basically out, might as well keep going and put something that's actually gonna work in. ...or scrap the whole thing if the transmission isn't great and the interior sucks.

Or he could just get adjustable compression rods with a rod end in it that allows it to pivot instead of trying to squeeze rubber to get its articulation.

Well you have 47 year old car that you've already sunk a buncha money into. I would advise on making the less practical decision and getting the larger turbo. it's a toy. Have fun with it.

Is the spot where the head gasket blew out the same location as where the block has pitting between the cylinders? If so, you can either get someone (or do it yourself) to weld in between the cylinder walls to fill in that gap and then smooth it down...or you can save yourself a ton of time and effort and just get a new engine. How much is your time worth?

Ah, indeed. I also do not have the ability to attach a file directly from my computer to a "message". Only images that are hosted elsewhere via URL, or anything that I've attached to a thread here somewhere else.

You don't have that?

That motor is a 12V. If it's a dual speed Ford fan, it's probably from a Taurus or Thunderbird. If you don't mind a used one, they're pretty plentiful in nearly all junkyards. Just take some measurements and see if they match up with what other people have posted online before you head out there. Or just order a new one.

You 100% sure the fan is 24 volts? Nearly every electric fan out there is 12 volts.

You should get the panels for the sole reason of cutting out the exterior sheet metal so you can properly treat all the rust that inside of there. Yeah, it's 100 bucks now, but you'll have gladly spent that for WHEN your paint goes bad (not if).

I'm replacing most everything on my Z, and even trying to go as cheap as possible on everything, and using lots of junk yard parts and doing 100% of the labor myself, I still can't find a way to spend less then 15k. A much better way to do a "full" upgrade, would be to upgrade everything else that isn't engine related first (brakes, suspension, chassis strengthening, seats, paint, bodykit?, etc) before you touch the engine. As soon as the engine comes out, you'll want to upgrade everything "while you're there". At this point, just add 3-5 years onto whatever time budget you gave yourself unless you're one of those crazy singular focus ultra driven workhorses that apparently has no other hobbies. Man I'm jealous of those people. There's an Australian guy on youtube right who documented pretty much every aspect of his Z restoration. You might want to give his damn near 90 videos a watch and see if that's what you want to do. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCk_vb_SJctymCkwnF6sAwDg

Dutchman Axles used to be a local company, then moved to Idaho. They're much smaller then Mosier, but big enough to not screw it up when you explain what you want.

of course you're selling these...I just got them from them. Oh well. Good luck with sale!

There are 400hp+ M42s, but it's probably more work then is worth it. And good point about the K series. I've seen people adapt them to BMW ZF 5 speeds out of the E36/46. It still all comes back around to if any of these are going to be anywhere near as expensive as a similar SR setup though.