jnjdragracing

Jon, how is Gina doing? I have not seen any updates. I HOPE and PRAY that all is WELL. Jerry and John

Nice video Deja, Hopefully it will be all finished up in time for the DNR shootout. Have you smoked the tires yet? John

I was reading Warrens post and happen to scroll down and saw this, I thinks this is what Warren is talking about "soft Porn" See attached thumbnail. John

My vote is for the 3.54 setup, because you have such a low first gear with the T-5. The Z should run out nice on top end with the 5th gear over drive.Jerry

Happy birthday Warren (old man) from the both of us..... John and Jerry

Congrats Curtis, Since you did so much at once it is going to be hard to determine what helped th most, but at least you reached your goal. John

What kind of technical issues did you have if you don't mind sharing? What did you think about the show? For us it was long, hot and just alot of waiting. John

You need to remove the differential, remove the ring gear. I use duct tape to tape up the surface where the ring gear mounts and around the bearings. Then you need to put some heat to it. Those welds are not going to hold. You can take it to a welding shop and have them burn the spider gears all the way around / attaching to the carrier. Also do the other side as well. If you leave like it is it will cause great problems later on. Just my opinion. John

Hey Jon, we will be praying for her as well. John and Jerry.

Nice launch by the way. I would tighten the front end down another link, and also install another rubber shim in the rear. Waisting energy by lifting and squatting, you will need to experiment with this. Build the engine rpm up more when leaving the line if the rear tires will hold. Shift point would probably be around 6500 rpm. Again this is something you can experiment with. I would also run royal purple engine oil ( synthetic oil xpr 5w30 ) fresh oil filter and only 4 qts of oil, like I said this is good for a 1/10. Weight savings - the saying is every 100lbs is good for a 1/10 as well. They say after you run the car once, drain the water from the radiator / engine. Pour in cold water with engine running is also suppose to be good for a 1/10. I have never tried this. Mechanical fuel pump verses electric pump. Less friction on engine means more power. Good luck on your venture. John

Here is a few secrets that are race proven. SBC 355, use only 4 qts of oil good for a 1/10th second Headers, from the collector, add 18 inches - uncapped - 1/10th second Limited the front end travel and limited the rear end squat travel, will improve 60ft. Try slicks, et street slicks, et drag radials suck. SBC 355 likes timing, if you are running timimg at 36 degrees try 40. Note: more timing from the get go is more power off the line, less timimg means it will pull harder on the other end. If traction is an issue then stick with 36 degrees timing. What type camshaft are you running, hydralic, solid, roller ? Nos / hp cam. What is the center line? Nitrous cams have a higher center line like 110 to 116. HP cams are like a 106 centerline. If you want to run good on HP, then change cams if you have a nitrous cam. Change to a solid roller, less friction. Can't reccomend any thing more on the engine with out more specs. Hope this is helpful.. John Hope these help.

From my own experience a supercharger camshaft is exactly like a nitrous cam, basically the same cam ( this is for a v8 Chevy ) not sure about your build. Comp cams or Doug Herbert were very helpful with me. John

Looking good....... keep us posted on your runs. Oh yeah good luck at Pinks all out. We tried to get picked twice but both times we were to quick. But I wish you all the luck on getting picked and winning the money. Be sure to bring a chair and a cooler. You will have a long wait time between runs. John and Jerry

Grumpyvette, I am a DSM for WIX filters/CARQUEST Filters. I can send you a master catalog on CD and a hardback one too. You can PM your address and I will send them to you. Jerry

Scottie, have you heard of ERC fuels? John and I have talked with the owner about blended fuels he offers a 20% and a 30% methonal mix for around $5.00 a gallon. The only problem he is located in California, but with the freight and barrell charge it comes out to be $10.00 a gallon or $550.00 for 55 gallon drum. We have not placed a ordered yet, we are still thinking about it. Jerry

Sweet !!!!

With XP more memory is always better. From your list you have 512mb. You need to find out how many available slots you have open and add more ram. You could have 1 stick of 512mb with an open slot so you could add another 512mb, or you could have 2 256mb with no open slots, so to upgrade you would need to buy 2 512mb. Memory is important, also check your system tray / startup. If you have a lot of junk starting up or in the system tray this could be eating up valuable resources. Hope this helps, I did search the compaq website and could not find anything on a Compaq Presario 061. John

Do you have any pictures of your kit or a link to place you purchased you kit from. Thanks Jerry

If you do mind some chirping around corners you will be okay, Have used spools in 12 bolt, and 9 inch on the street with out any issues. You do have to careful in the rain. The R200 welded has done fine for us and believe me we have put in through the test. I would note on welding the unit up, have then to weld up the spyder gears as well. I welded then up and did a complete pass around the unit. John

I will let you know.... Presently I am using a MSD 6AL, with a timing computer with multiple retards via / switches. Since I am running a supercharger now I am going to buy a MSD6btm or add a btm to my exsisting 6AL. Then off to the dyno I go to tune with various boost / timing. I will let you know how it works. John

Hey GrumpyVette, I have bought one and have enjoyed using it. My local welding shop sold it to me who sells Miller. It is made by Thermal Dynamics, they said it was still made Miller. It has worked flawlessly, on Metal and Alum. I do need to buy an attachment so I can cut perfect straight lines and Circles. If you are interested in Thermal Dynamics I can get you the model number of the one I have over the weekend. John

My brother Jerry has a blue 240z with no rust. It has a 2x3 subframe backhalfed that someone started, has all interior as well. If you like come by and take a look at it and if you are interested he might sell it. We were going to do a tube chassis car and use this body. Just an idea, and we live in Columbia SC also. John

I think a higher Thermostat like a 195 would help. To test this theory if you had an electric water pump you could turn it off for a minute or two then cut it back on, if the water temp drops then you know a higher thermostat would help. We run a restrictor plate in place of our thermostat, which I plan on changing. When we come down the return lane back to the pits we are turning the water pump off for a minute or two then turning it back on and the water temp decreases. Just my opinon.... John

Our shop that we go to charges $60.00 for two pulls then $20.00 each pull after that. He hooks up the probe in the exhaust that measures the afr. He does two pulls back to back, then we see where we are at. I would if he olny did 3 pulls and wanted to charge $450.00 then he is wrong unless he did a lot of adjusting for you. When we dynoed our car he just ran the test and he gave us some ideas, we did the work. John

Just out of the blue, you mentioned Vortec heads. I had an engine once with a similar issue, I was floating the valve springs. Are you running a stock cam? If not and if you did not replace valve springs to match the cam, this could be your issue under a load. Just an idea........ Usually if igniton is an issue it will breakdown, pop, skip under a load. The only rev limiting that I have seen would be in a computr controlled ignition system. John