Miles

http://www.ztherapy.com/

After I got out of the Air Force, I worked in a brake shop for about a year. We would test drive the car and never bed the shoes/pads. My Nissan dealership does our brakes. They don't bed the new pads.

https://www.hollisterroad.com/products.php?cat=8 https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/1816636-markviii-vs-spal-duals.html

https://www.hollisterroad.com/products.php?cat=8 https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/1816636-markviii-vs-spal-duals.html

Did you see these posts? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/118957-16-electric-fan-with-stock-shroud/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/108060-electric-fans/

Have you looked at Flex - A - Lite fans? I am currently using a 3000 cfm fan and Arizona Z Car radiator to cool a SBC 350. Runs cool in traffic here in central Cal on 100 + deg days. The 3000 cfm is what made the difference. https://www.flex-a-lite.com/electric-fans.html?cfm_range=10 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/122990-arizona-z-cars-radiator/

Let us know how you solve this.

First, thanks for providing data with your question. Save yourself a lot of money, and wasted hours researching this, and go back to stock fan.

https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/

Could be the contacts inside the TS switch. The contacts can become bent and/or coated with carbon.

Did you adjust the push rod that is between the booster and the master cylinder? If not, search the brake forum for "push rod adjustment". It is a common oversight when installing the ZX master cylinder. If the push rod is too long the return port in the MC will be blocked which after a few stops will lock up the brakes. You can relieve the fluid pressure by opening the MC bleed screws so carry a wrench with you when testing the push rod adjustments. You don't have to remove the MC from the car. Leave the brake lines attached and just remove the two nuts holding the MC to the booster. Pull the MC away from the booster and push it to the side. Note: when adjusting the push rod be careful not to drop the reaction disk inside the booster. Try to minimize pulling on the push rod.

Welcome. A bit more information is required: Is the wiring stock or after market? What modifications have been made to the stock wiring? Do you have the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your 240Z? You will need it. Have you downloaded schematics for your car? Have you searched HybridZ for posts related to turn signal problems? There are many posts that include "how-to" videos. Have you searched Google or YouTube? There are many "how to repair turn signals" tutorials and videos for the 240Z.

How did you bed the pads?

What HP is your SBC? How will the car be driven?

For the same amount of effort, you could buy a Chevy, Camaro etc driveshaft at a wrecker and have it shortened and balanced with new U joints. The only other component required would be the flange adapter. The flange adapter P/N is available in several HybridZ posts. JTR may still sell the adapter. Note: Measure driveshaft carefully Use a reliable driveshaft shop Pay attention to driveshaft phasing/angles

What driveshaft are you using? Answers here: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/47121-zx-rear-brake-conversion-e-brake-interference

Don't do anything permanent until you have fully researched this problem. There are several solutions.

Like this:

Swapping parts is not diagnosis. You are wasting time and money. Learn how to use a voltmeter to diagnose charging circuits/battery. Shouldn't take more than ten minutes using a volt meter correctly. Google it. Verify that the battery and alternator are working by taking them to your local parts store.

You didn't mention the basics: What year is your Z? Wiring changes from year to year. What modifications have been made to the electrical system? Do you have the Factory Service Manual for your z? Have you downloaded electrical schematics for your Z? Members have made some very well done schematics in color in pdf format. Search.

The stock headlight circuit is prone to overheating the headlight switch. Do the headlight relay harness developed by Hybridz member HLS30-08077 (Dave). Allows running higher wattage headlights without burning up the stock harness/switch. https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/product-info/ Seem to recall that MSA also sells Dave's harness.

Have you searched HybridZ for "headlight circuit" ?

You didn't mention the basics: What year is your Z? Wiring changes from year to year. What modifications have been made to the electrical system? Do you have the Factory Service Manual for your z? Have you downloaded electrical schematics for your Z? Members have made some very well done schematics in color in pdf format. Search. Do you understand how the headlight system is wired? May be different than you are used to. Do you know that black wires on the Z are grounds? Suggest that you get a schematic and identify the wires "with no home". Google switch repair: there are many "how to" write ups and YouTube videos explaining, in detail, the combo switch lighting/turn signal switch wiring. Until you understand what each wire does you will be at a disadvantage troubleshooting the electrical system.

Because Z brake systems changed year to year, you need to tell us what year Z you have. Post some pictures of what you are calling a "proportioning valve" would help.