Miles

Motorsports Auto (MSA) also sells a SBC swap kit that includes the engine mounts and transmission support. This kit, like the JTR kit, is easy to install, but assumes that the user knows about driveline phasing, balance, measuring etc. Lots of material in the Drivetrain Forum. Suggestions: Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Read the new member FAQs. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/

Just pick a reliable local driveshaft shop to modify/balance the driveshaft. You will have to learn how to measure for the correct driveshaft length. Also, driveshaft angle (phasing) is very important. If you don't know about driveshaft balance and phasing your car will vibrate going down the road. Search HybridZ and google. JTR sells the the Chevy driveshaft to Datsun differential flange adapter you need. Or do a HybridZ search for the part number. Buy the JTR 240Z V8 swap manual and read it several times. Most of the answers to your questions are there.

Clean, safe cars with decent paint will sell at market value for that car. Don't waste money with cool mods.

Not all California counties require a smog check e.g., Amador County. Does California look at pre 1976 out of state cars when you go to the DMV to register the car?

After you fix the headlight switch issue, install the headlight relay harness developed by a HybridZ member. The harness is plug and play and will reduce the load on the headlight switch and allows you to use higher wattage headlights. You can order the harness from the HybridZ member (he also repairs combo switches) who designed it: http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Or buy it from MSA: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4651

For a good source of Chevy engine and transmission information go here: https://www.thirdgen.org/

I prefer gear reduction starters because......................... Advantages of gear reduction starters: lighter high torque compact new not rebuilt My local speed shop has them My experience with stock starters has been that when heat soaked they become weak making it difficult to start a hot engine. Never had a heat soak issue with a gear reduction starter.

You don't seem to understand what you are doing. In the interest of public safety I recommend that you study how your brake system works before making any more changes. Actually, all you had to do was install the Toyota and 280ZX brakes and a 1 inch Wilwood brake master cylinder and you would have been done. Plus all of the information needed to do the Toyota - 280ZX brake swap is documented in the brake and FAQ forums.

Part number: Hitachi gear reduction starter PSL100

You can also just gut the factory proportioning valve (PV) on the early 240Z that is located in back of the storage compartments. Once gutted the stock 240Z PV body just becomes a connector block and flows 100%. However, many people have done this and then later said that it did not improve rear braking bias at all. There have many threads on this subject discussing the pros and cons of variable PV vs stock vs gutting the stock PV. On the later Z cars the PV valve was moved to the firewall and it is of a different design than the early PVs. Search and/or look at the FSM for details. If you want more rear bias start with the basics such as larger diameter rotors etc.

As discussed before, your brake setup (Toyota front - 280ZX rear) will be biased toward the front. A variable proportioning valve only reduces pressure. Therefore, you do not need a variable proportioning valve. Why would you want to reduce pressure to the rear on a front biased brake system? For your other questions, do like everyone else (as recommended to you) and read the factory service manuals (FSM) for the 240Z and the 1981 280zxT that you got the brake parts from. Go here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109702-hybridz-is-not-automotive-101/

I have been looking at reducing the exhaust noise on my 240Z (SBC 350, 2.5" exhaust, Flowmaster Magna Flow 14" body muffler). The noise level is fine for city driving at low throttle opening, but approaching WOT it sounds like open exhaust and driving through parking lots sets off car alarms. Here is some info I have been looking at: http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/exhaust/understanding-muffler-design-and-sound-absorption-strategies/ https://www.acoustics.asn.au/conference_proceedings/AAS2005/papers/34.pdf

I just searched HybridZ for the ZX alternator which returned 356 results. On the the first two pages were threads with the answers to your problem. Some of the threads include references to other Z websites detailing the ZX alternator swap. Included in the threads are pictures, schematics and tables showing the correct wiring. Persistent searching pays off. Listen to what this guy does:

Look up Scarab 240Z. Many people copied the Scarab V8 swap with the engine forward. I have seen several V8 swaps from the 70s and 80s that used 2" x 2" sq tubing for engine mounts and a 2 ft section of angle iron for the rear transmission mount. It gets the job done, but is not optimal. Again check out the JTR manual for details. The T5 combined with a 3.54 differential makes a nice daily driver especially at freeway speeds.

Since the length of the T5 trans may be different than the Muncie, and that you have the engine forward installation, you may want consider using a JTR or MSA V8 swap kit. This will put the shifter in position with the shifter hole in the trans tunnel. See my pictures above. If you are going to do the T5 swap you might as well pull the engine and transmission so you can get the engine closer to the firewall and the transmission in a better position using one of the swap kits. Take some time and research the dimensions for each transmission. A tape measure will be your friend. There are three swap kits available: MSA, JTR and John's cars. Each has pros and cons that you can research here on HybridZ. JTR is the most commonly used install kit, but there seem to be issues with getting the transmision/driveline/differential phasing dialed in. I used the MSA kits because the transmission mount (goes inside the tunnel) allowed easy alignment of the transmission when setting the driveline angle. The swap is not hard, but you have to pay attention to details.

How is the transmission mounted, MSA, JTR or home brew? Post some pictures of the mount. Recommend that you purchase the 240Z V8 swap manual from Jags That Run. It has a lot of usable information for new or updating engine swaps in Z cars.

You can ether use the Camaro BH or use the Chevy BH and make an angled suuport for the transmission. It is up to you. You may be able to reuse some parts like the flywheel. Many Chevy parts are interchangable.

The WC T5 transmission is tilted15 degrees towards the driver. The 15 deg tilt is absolutely no problem, I have done two. Note that there is a V8 T5 and a V6 version of the T5 transmission. They have different spline counts. You will need to get the V8 version. So unless you want to make a special transmission mount you will need an 89 Camaro T5 bell housing, driveshaft, flywheel, clutch pressure plate/disk, throwout arm, throwout bearing, slave and a 7/8" clutch MC. All of the forgoing components were for an 89 Camaro V8 WC T5 transmission. Napa sells the slave. Both Tilton and Wilwood make clutch MCs that will work. On mine I swapped the 240Z push rod for my Willwood push rod so the clevis would bolt up to the clutch pedal. The Wilwood MC is more compact than the Tilton. The Camaro slave uses a roll-pin hose connector. So you will need AN -3 SS braided hose and a -3 to roll-pin adapter/connector at the slave. There is a parts list in a post in the Drivetrain section. Do some searching for details. As I recall both the Tilton and wilwood MCs come with -3 adapters to connect the -3 line to the MC if not Summit has them. You will have to have the drive shaft shortened and balanced. Note: use a quality driveshaft shop! I had the new flywheel surfaced and then balanced with the clutch pack bolted on. Be sure to get the driveline phasing (driveshaft angle) correct to avoid vibration. Search the Driveline section for instructions.

You may be correct. I was looking at 240Zs on Craigslist and was amazed at the asking prices for poorly crafted hybrid z cars. Cars in the LA area were the highest. I bought my 240Z in San Jose in 2001 for $3K. It was a two owner car and very clean. The original owner kept it until 1999 and he took meticulous care of the car.

Not worth his asking price. For his asking price the entire car should have been restored such that it has new paint, new weather seals and everything working. There is absolutely nothing special about this car. Offer him $5k and have the car shipped home. You will get burned. Look at the attached pictures. This 72 240Z was stripped to bare metal and rebuilt from the ground up and includes a new Good Wrench crate 350 SBC and a T5 Camaro transmission. Over $25K invested. It has been on the road reliably for 10 years. It is maybe a $10K to $12K 240Z if I were to sell it. I bought a 240Z like the one you are looking at and it turned out to be a real horror show. We had to take the car apart and start over.

Check Motor Sports Auto (MSA) for bearings: http://www.zcarparts.com/ You can call MSA and ask them about the differences in hubs and bearings. This would be a good time to install new bearings. You can do them yourself or take the hubs to a machine shop where they can press out the old bearing races and press in the new races. MSA also sells some refurbished parts. They may have hubs if you decide to change them.

This happens to many of us restoring old cars. My first 72 240Z had a 280z right rear strut and brake assembly that created some confusion for awhile. More info on hubs: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/60061-240z260z-front-hub-difference/

You have 240Z hubs shown in your first post or are they 260Z hubs? 280Z hubs are round Also see 240Z hubs below.

The dimensions TTT quoted you do not look right. Do you have 260Z hubs? Note attached drawing which shows thickness dimension 16.850mm (0.663in) is very close to my MM spacer purchased in 2006 from Ross.

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