jeffer949

Well the resets are back. and on top of that my injectors are leaking into the cylinders!!! great fun huh? well i will have new injectors here this week 72lb ones actually which will give me plenty of headroom with my current boost levels. The resets started again after i rewired my engine bay. So im going to rewire it again and see what happens. I think its wierd that when my wiring was all messy and all over the place that it worked but then i loomed it all up and made it look nice and it started resetting. Also a weird thing is that the resets only happen in maybe the first 5 min of starting up the car. After that they go away and then there arent any more. Well i have the next 2 days off so ill be playing with this alot. Alright. Later.

Well I have been driving around for about the past 2 hours. And not one reset. Its running really well also. So any body want my old ecu and want to mess with it. Ill sell it cheap!!!! lol

Well It runs. Havent taken it out yet though. it idles alot smother now but thats probably because my old ms had all the injectors on one inj. driver My tps isnt working but i think its mechanical with the tps as i had it off yesterday. Well ill get it fixed and ill keep ya updated

Well i got the ms built and working on my stim. Im heading out to my car to install it. Wish me luck

wow you got lucky if that came loose at interstate speeds. It can start flailing reckelssly and even put holes in the tunnel. But me personally i would replace the u-joints and then also replace the seal on the diff also. I would make sure the front u-joint is ok more than the back as it was the one that got put in a bind.

Well guys i guess you can say that im giving up on this ecu and i ordered another one. Same one but im going to put it together and see what happens. Ill mess with this ecu when i turbo and megasquirt my 78 kz650. It should be here tomorrow. I have the day off so i should be able to get it together that day or maybe the next day.

Why not upgrade to a 280zx distributor with the e12? ignition box. (im going from memory on if its e12 but i could be wrong either way the number doesnt really matter)

Good job phil! Yeah i go and race back in kansas about once a year on one of my dads bikes. I raced for 13 years and was a pretty good Intermediate rider. I go back and race with the novices and its fun as Im so out of shape but i can still corner alot faster than most of them lol.

Mind me asking how much it was?

Im going to burn this effing ecu!!!! Its back it reset like 5 times where i had to turn my ignition switch off and then back on again. I think it may have something to do with the pullup resistor but im not sure. Ill keep ya posted

How about putting a bronze or brass bushing in there to support it? Just make it pressed in and it would act like the dizzy did in supporting it

Man that looks awesome Derek. You need to make a new oil cap though. Also you going to DNI like you said you where?? pm me your number as i dont have it any more. later

I ran mine right off of the fusible links if im not mistaken. And you dont need much power for the switched power source. Its only activating the main power relay on the relay board.

I have no experience in this what so ever. But as i was reading this I had an idea. Why not do the laser idea but put it in the crank shaft pilot bearing recess. Then it would be able to get it to be inline and make it have very little angle to the diff. make sense?

pm me if his doesnt work out.

Are you talking about an act clutch? If so they do make a extreme pressure plate for the 240mm clutch. its N013x where the hd one is N013. So why hasnt anybody noted that from a stock standpoint that the 240mm flywheel and the 225mm flywheel are the exact same size? Its just where the "cooling ring" is machined into it and where the pp bolts are drilled. I guess you could even say the 240mm flywheel has less inertia because it has 3 extra bolt holes drilled in it lol

wow is all i have to say lol.

Actually your rod has nothing to do with the stroke of the engine. The crank throw is what determines the stroke. You could have a mile long connecting rod and you would still have the same stroke if its connected to the same crank. What the longer/short rod does for you is it changes rod tangency.

Jeff my zxt was an auto. and it was in the middle. My guess is its an aftermarket radiator.

mechanics wear gloves or nitril. Its all you need. I do alot of side mechanic work on motorcycles like i go to there house and fix there bike and i dont always have a place to wash my hands so wearing nitril gloves is where its at for me so i dont have to get in my z and get my steering wheel and shifter all dirty!!!

Mine is right in the middle jeff. Yeah im running the zxt in my s30.

Um that is VERY reparable. Most people would like to start out with a car that was taht clean lol.

You took the front cover off correct? If so put a 2x4 under the cam chain galley hole and start wacking with a big hammmer!! it should lossen up. You might also want to try putting some pb blaster or better yet sea foam deep creep into the holes with broken studs to losen up the grim holding the head to the shaft of the bolt. If your in a pinch i have have a set of turbo head bolts that im replacing. I dont know the history on them but just pay shipping and they are yours. But like others have said. ARP is the way to go. you can get them off ebay for like 140 shipped.

Tim and Eric can be ok but the renegade angle one is pretty lame.

If you dont get it tell me where it is. Ill have my dad there with a trailer with in a few days!!