jeffer949

What are you using to clean up your welds with. I would try those layered sanding disks for 90deg. grinders. They work great and sand very smoothly and leave a nice finish.

Ya your car is worth way more than 8K. When i wrecked my car last year I was told my car had a retial value of 13k. At the time i had a rustoleum rolled on paint job. and wasnt all that great yet. same turbo set up i have now though. I was in SHOCK when he told me that. I know I couldnt of gotten 13k for my car if i sold it. If noticed that insurance companies value our cars at alot more than what we could sell them for. Nice for when we wreck them. Not so nice for when we sell them. Once i get a garage I am going to get my car appraised and get on some better insurance.

You say you want to talk to the experts but honestly Dave at rebello is the expert. Honestly imo dave should of covered shipping. Your going to have a hard time getting Dave to pay for work at another shop. Its cash out of his pocket now instead of a few hours of work to fix the problem. Good luck on getting this worked out but i have to say that it was a mistake taking it to the other machine shop.

What part of the clutch master is it hitting? the reservoir or the actual body?

That is what Gabe is running (Austins old motor) and i believe that is what Speeders(rick) L-series was set at. If i was going to build a forged bottom end that is what i would go with.

You should allready have it. What do you think goes into shocks??

Have you thought about doing a front mount set up? Can you swap the manifolds from bank to bank and have them point forward?

Hey prox. I think you have some bad math some where. Your compression ration should be 7.1:1 stock is 7.4:1 then the 2mm headgasket brings it down to 7.1:1

I was going to say the same thing!!

I personally think every thing should be green. even the flares. I was contemplating painting my flairs black when i painted my car. When i painted them body color and bolted them on i couldnt of been happier. In my opinion it makes it look much more like the flares where supposed to be there, and not just thrown on after. I do think the hood vents could be a flat black or even better probably a graphite color. But i would say paint the flares green and then its easy to paint them black afterwards if you dont like it.

Get the shorter steering knuckles. It will help some. I need to get them.

Jumper IGBTOUT to IGN to send to IGBT ignition coil driver signal out of pin 36 on the DB37. Did you do that step?

The 4" v-bands do work and do get the job done. I just think that the 3.5" vbands would seal alot better.

Mine does it also but its actually not the hatch its self but the sheet metal around the lock is actually popping in and out making the noise.

Glad to hear it!! I was wondering what happened to you

I really like those. They have a very factory look about them. obviously thats part of the good install job though.

LOL (<---- yes i was actually laughing out loud.) Stay on target, Stay on target, Stay on target. aaaaagggggghhhhh

The valve im using is from DIYautotune. Its a replacement for the gm style valve because they couldnt find them any more or something. Im using it with megasquirt so im sure you could use it with your wolf. Idk just having one ecu running everything just seems cool to me.

Hey hugh The pwm valve that im using is actually is open when its not on. So it would be getting a vacuum source from the plenum.

LOL glad i can be of some help. The origonal thread was actually over at Zcar wasnt it? I guess i did post a picture of it here though. The way i made that was i cut it into the 3 pieces and then bolted them all up to the transmison and the tunnel and then i just tacked everything in place. Took it all out and then welede it all together.

Thought i would let ya know that I've gotten the boost controller working. Currently it takes forever for my turbo to get up to 20psi. With my MBC i had 20psi by 3000 rpm. On the ebc i get 20psi by like 4800rpm. That is with all the duty targets set to 55% I'm going to try to modify the table and put the first couple rows in the rpm range to 100% so it will spool quicker. Ill let ya know how it goes

I hate you!!!

HEY!!!! thats my tranny cross member in the middle there!!! Some people on here (cough1 fast zcough) said it wouldnt hold up lol. Its been over 2 years and over 30 runs at the strip and id say 10 of those have been in the 12's!!!

yes you are correct on the countershaft bearing. on the shift fork im not sure which one it is. Its been a while since i modded my bellhousing. Go check http://www.atlanticz.ca in the tech tips section

I wouldnt put a bushing in the countershaft bearing hole i would just swap the bearings and put the larger ka/sr countershaft bearing onto the l28 transmission. You would have to put a bushing into the shift rod hole though. Sorry not sure if your agreeing with me or if your trying to say it wont work. I just stated what is neccessary to do the ka to l28 swap first and then worked backwards from there.