jeffer949

Hey guys i was looking at getting this dampner also and i can see spending the 80 bucks on it but what i cant see is spending the 40 bucks for the bolt and washer. Is it really needed and if so why?

You have a r200 in there already correct?? If so just take the cover off of the current r200 and put it on your lsd and then put it in. Not sure what half-shafts you have though but ive seen your work im sure you can figure it out

ebay has license plates from japan

I would be safety wiring all the pressure plate bolts together. At least do 3 groups or 3. best way is to torque all your bolts down and then break out the punch and drill and drill a whole though the outer left corner of the bolt. and then take a long piece of safety wire and make a loop through the first one and then take some safety wire pliers and spin it to the next bolt and lace it through that one and then keep going to the next one. Then your done!! or use this method to drill the heads of your bolts http://www.ekartingnews.com/NewToKarting/safetywire.html

im currently running my clsd with just the stock r200 diff cover till i get a different bar for my rear end to clear it.

He has pallnets upgraded studs. i walked gabe through the helicoil this morning on msn messenger. If his gasket isnt blown out completely he might be able to drill and tap the hole for a helicoil with out taking the manifold off which would be a plus!!!

i wanna try and go to the drag strip here coming up in the next week or so. once i get my hy35w should be fun. ill see if some other people wanna come.. ill pm ya

can you get it off?? try taking a chisel and put it underneath the nut and pry on it while your turning the nut with a ratchet.

hey veritech-z your in orlando? we should get together some time

congrats on the promotion. im about an hour away from there lets be sure to meet up!! be glad to meet ya!!

id be down for a jdm license plate!!

1974 260z l28et holset hx30w starion intercooler 280zxt radiator. no ac. 240sx transmission. r200lsd. cv axles. 7-8 gallons of gas. full interior. spare tire. and probably about 30-40lbs of tools in the toll boxes. shaved rear end and sidemarkers no bumpers and bumper shocks removed 2525lbs!!! i think i could get it under 2450 real easy if i removed spare and tools

Honestly.. I think it would be cool. Ive always liked vnt turbos. I have ridden motorcycles with aerocharges on them that are vnt, and they perform great and have very little lag. and if it can be done why not?

my friend was there. he works for Grassroots motorsports. he tried to get me to go but i didnt have time

Well as a few of you know i blew my turbo up on the last run at DNI and it was a holset hx30w. I do not recommend this turbo its to small. i had to lean out my fuel mixture at 13psi which is what i was running on my stock t3 so that means that its flowing less air at the same psi. and i had even upgraded my exhaust from the stock dp and a glasspack to full 3" from the turbo back. im actually going to try and put my stock t3 back on and go to the strip wed. or fri. and see if im right. if the stock t3 flows more air my car will be faster in the 1/4 seems simple enough. Ok on to the main topic of my post. i am obviously looking for a new turbo. and i want something bigger im thinking holset hy35w or similar so im looking on ebay and there are a few holset he351ve's for what seems like a lower price. but they have the vnt on them. Is there an easy way to control the vnt like maybe through my megasquirt or something?? ive dont some searching but the only thing i can come up with is people talking about the command valve on the he351's. and nothing on the he351ve. but i do remember seeing a post of someone who had bought one but i cant find it. well thanks in advance..

i understand thats the problem i had. did you get the companion flange from an automatic by chance? I was

You dont need a new driveshaft its going to be the same as your current one. you need to swap input flanges on your differential. you need one off of 280z with a r200 in it.

I just went through this like 3 weeks ago. You need to get an input flang from a 280z with a r200 in it. Its a round flange. If i had an extra one i would send it to ya but i dont. Thats how i actually got my lsd i was swapping out my r200 from my turbo zxt into my my 260 which had the r180. So i went to my friends house to see if he had one and he did but it was on a lsd and was about to take it off and i was like, well how much for the whole thing. He said i $100 bucks and i said sold before he even finished saying it lol. Good luck finding one.

or just throw the sensors in there and leave them unpluged. thats what i ddi

one is reverse. one is neutral and one is over drive

its in and out. i know there is up and down down that has to be there so there is clearance for the oil in the journal bearings. but it hasnt hit the housings yet so im gonna bolt it on and see if it will make it to dni and back. it doesnt look like its been leaking oil really so i think i will be ok. im gonna throw in my t3 and my stock down pipe just in case. should be fun. lol on another note does any one know what the stock waste gate setting was on the hx30w? cause i wanna try running the stock actuator and then adjusting it with the threaded rod

I just got a used holset hx30w in the mail that i got off of ebay. they said it didnt have any play... but of course it does and in my opinion needs to be rebuilt. now my question is does the hx30w have the same center section as the hx35w? because i cant find a rebuild kit for the hx30w but i can for the hx35w. so im wondering if i order the hx35w kit if it will work. thanks guys..

my Intake air temp sensor bung is jb welded in. i didnt feel like spending 25 bucks on having my welder do a 2 min job. its worked fine with no problems. but do ruff it up before you do it

Dni????

they are just slotted rotors you can see a secound slot if you look close