rossman

I'll have to agree with chickenman, if you're going to build a turbo engine, go with a P90/P90a with flat top pistons. The improved quench with help minimize detonation. Also worth doing the head cooling mod. If you already have the n42/n42 then just run that and upgrade later if you're so inclined.

Yes if the valves are open when the piston is coming to TDC. Nope, collapsed lifters would cause the valves to not open all the way but still allowing pressure to build in the cylinder. How are you checking compression?

Are any of the valve stems/caps damaged? Maybe the lifter backed all the way down, allowing the lash pad to slip out.

Did you figure out what caused that wear on your old rockers? You must have had an oiling issue.

You don't have to assuming you can get your wipe pattern set up correctly. That said, I replaced mine for good measure.

If you open up closed sections of the unibody like the sills and frame rails you'll find that they are most likely covered with surface rust so "rust free" is a relative term when talking about these old Datsuns! I may have missed it but did you do a thorough inspection for rust under the car? Frame rails and of course, floor pans are common areas for rust. I'm enjoying the videos! Keep it up! Cheers, Ross

I would just install a more quiet muffler. You might want to try wrapping your header with header wrap to keep engine bay temps down.

3. As stated earlier, Aeromotive A1000 EFI Regulators are popular. I'm using one on my car. Whatever brand you get, you typically need one that is adjustable and has 1:1 vacuum/boost reference.

Look for the thread in the L-series FAQs. Basically, cylinders #5 & 6 tend to be prone to detonation due to poor coolant circulation in that area of the head. The mod is to drill/tap holes on the driver's side of the head just above #5 & 6 exhaust ports then plumb those ports directly to the thermostat housing.

Run a newer, efficient turbo & intercooler, good ecu, do the head cooling mod, smooth out the combustion chambers and deshroud the valves and I bet you'll be pushing 300 hp no problem.

You don't need the bypass valve. Buy high quality oil filters and change them often.

I used the tall Jeep mount and "tuned" the differential nose height by removing material until the angle between the transmission and differential were within a couple of degrees.

I was actually trying to help you out and I advised you to listen to NewZed. Grannyknot is willing to help. Heck, I will help too, but you're going to have to make an effort and collect some data as requested. We are all just guessing based on the information you've given so far. Have you bothered to check the coolant level and spark plugs as NewZed asked?

You are right, you have to start somewhere. You are about where I was 33 years ago when I started fiddling with cars. Listen to NewZed, he is helping you... Keep in mind that HybridZ is meant for people who already know how to diagnose and solve common overheating problems. It's kinda expected that those that post here have already gone thru all the standard diagnosis steps and fixes but still need help because, for whatever reason those steps didn't fix the problem. Patience runs thin for newbies who haven't done their homework, especially when they cop an attitude. Google is your friend, search something like "how to diagnose engine overheating" and go from there...

Use a degree wheel and piston stop to find TDC.

Have you seen this? I believe he will sell you a bracket separately. https://nostalgicac.com/compressors/compressors/datsun-240z-260z-280z-compressor-upgrade-kit.html

Yah, mine hasn't been broke long either. There doesn't appear to be any dirt in the joint. My boots were new so I'm pretty sure they would hold up to the few ~100 mph runs I've done. Unfortunately I didn't get a picture before I took it out, but the split looked like it was right where the tip of the LCA was closest to the boot.

The passenger side Z31 axle inner boot on my '72 240 split and slung grease all over the bottom of the car. I need some help figuring out what caused it to split so I can prevent it from happening again. For reference, my 240z is turbo'd with a Z31 LSD differential, Z31 axles with shortened shafts, 280z mustache bar, Ron Tyler front differential mount, and stock rear suspension with urethane bushings all around. I assume the boot hit passenger side LCA under hard acceleration causing it to rip. The boot is within .25" of the LCA; looking at it with the car jacked up and suspension at full droop. I assumed this was worst case. It's been awhile since I drove the car but I remember it making a metallic popping sound, kinda like an old fashioned oil can end popping in/out when I would accelerate quickly from a standstill. It would go boink, bonk every time. A while back I checked and everything seems tight under the car. Thinking about it now I've sorta convinced myself that the sound was the mustache bar flexing under load and contacting the axle boot. I am considering buying a TTT mustache bar, thinking that will reduce differential flex and fix the problem. While I'm at it, I'll shave off some LCA material near the LCA boot to give more clearance. What do you guys think, am I on the right track? Thanks, Ross

How about these? The on-car picture looks the same but the detail doesn't look tapered. Maybe it's just the angle of the photo? http://www.topstage.com/product/twin-aero-vents/

I set it at only 22 degrees at red line with 10 lbs of boost. The car is pretty fast even with such a mild tune. The engine is far from stock - custom high lift longish duration cam, ported head, 8.5:1 flat tops, larger intake valve, etc. I only played with the tune for drivability. One day I'll start bumping up the timing and boost but right now I have other issues to tend to.