Leon

I simply added a reply, no way to edit since there was no content in the first place. I suppose since there was no content, the reply shows as the original post. I've tried multiple computers and browsers and am not able to reply to the thread I've been meaning to reply to: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127430-no-overheat-still-get-oil-cooler-for-race-car/ I get the same error pictured in my first post if I go through "More Reply Options". If I simply press "Post", the Post and More Reply Options boxes disappear and are replaced with "Saving..." but it never actually posts. I've also PM'd SuperDan about this 3 days ago.

I'm surprised that actually went through as I haven't been able to post or comment for the last week.

I tried to post this last week but looks like it randomly popped up a couple of days ago, and without any of the post content. Anyone else having issues? This site has been unusable for me for the past week...

Take out your mixture screws and see if that orifice is blocked. If you're definitely getting fuel and it runs on all 6 on the mains, then it certainly sounds like something going on with the idle circuits for those cylinders.

My 260Z FSM specifies anything from a 5W-30 to a 20W-40 depending on climate. I'd argue that 20W-50 is actually too thick and you can go as thin as 5W-30 which I would not hesitate to use in my motor.

You sure you don't have #4 and #5 plug wires mixed up? Otherwise, I'd check the condition of your idle jets for those cylinders. Could be a clog in the jet or passage. Clean with solvent and compressed air.

Well that was fun, I lost my entire reply as well... Cam timing and chain length go hand-in-hand, milling the head retards the cam. Depending on your cam gear, you may be able to adjust the timing back to straight up (if that's what is desired). Shaving the P79 more than .080" on flat tops and OEM head gasket will give >11:1 compression. Whether it'll run on 91 depends on the quality of your fuel and timing management, i.e. your components and tune. If you cam manage the fuel properly but have an old distributor, there will be problems and vice-versa. Piston-to-valve clearance needs to be measured with your specific setup and cam timing. I have no idea what a "stage 3" cam is. I advise you to talk to a cam grinder about your specific build so that they can cut a cam for you, instead of picking something out of a catalog. I'm running a flat-top L28 with a 2mm shaved P90 and an Isky L6 grind (0.540" lift, 270deg). PTV clearances were measured to be >0.080" and deemed acceptable. I have more details on the build in this thread if you're interested: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111062-leons-other-260z/ Also, this engine will be screaming for a set of 45mm triples or ITBs!

That's some serious rubber!

It's been a while and there's actually not too much to report which is a good thing! I drive the Z once every week or two. However, there are a few annoying things to take care of: Rev-hang when shifting and blipping the throttle. This does not seem to be a linkage problem but a fueling or vacuum leak issue. The car idles well but sometimes hangs at 3k RPM before dropping. The bigger issue is that there just needs to be more fine-tuning done with the idle/transition circuit. I get pops out the carbs during highway cruise once in a while and have a tip-in stumble. Looking forward to sticking in Keith Franck's jets once I have some more time to tune. I also feel the engine leaning out at high RPM even though the dyno showed good AFR at high RPM. This indicates a weak fuel pump (O'Reilly-special thumper) which I'm looking to upgrade. Otherwise, I've still got the 3.9 CLSD waiting to go in whenever I get to it. That should wake the car up quite a bit although I do enjoy the long gearing of the 3.54 for cruising.

Buying a car in CA requires a smog cert for '76 or newer, whether it's bought in or out of state. Out of state cars also need a VIN inspection which can be done at the DMV. All they do is check all the VIN plates to make sure nothing fishy is going on. In other words, a '76 or newer car needs to pass SMOG before it can be registered. A '75 or older brought in from out of state is subject to a VIN verification but not a SMOG test. You are supposed to comply with the rules for the older cars but like was said earlier, they won't check since SMOG is not required.

Nice!

That would be the L6 grind: .550" lift/236° @ 0.050".

Pull your valve cover and inspect. Also send your used oil in for analysis, I use Blackstone Labs.

Installing (and removing) them as a unit is easily accomplished, given that you leave the manifolds off. A load leveler and having an extra hand or two helps. Last engine/trans assembly I helped drop in, we had it done in about 15 minutes. Definitely helps to have a few friends assist!

The difference is mostly in the progression holes and air-bypass screws. If you're looking for 40's, I'd go for the 151. It's the latest version with the air bypass screws which allow for synchronization of both barrels to each other. Older carbs did not have this. The new 40's (151) can be easily identified when compared to older 40DCOEs. The new carbs have added ribs on the float bowl cover casting as well as the air bypass screws: Above all, I recommend getting a set in as good of shape as possible. Otherwise, plan to rebuild the carbs. The throttle shaft seals on older carbs should be replaced.

I think Tim wins... Nice, that's the same cam I use in my NA L28 (Isky L6 grind). I could use more duration as my power peaks at 6000RPM. The torque tip is due to the crappy F11 emulsion tube, planning to tune that out in the coming months.

Sounds good! Going to the dyno any time soon Steve? What's your setup currently, are you EFI yet?

Coming along nicely! Looking forward to seeing this thing on the road.

Looking good!

The L24 head gasket's fire ring is just a little too small to work on an L28... don't ask how I know. Get an L28 gasket that best matches the E88. Can't say I have an answer on that.

That's some nice stuff! Let me know if you wanna get rid of any of it...

Wow, that's scary. Certainly a design flaw, that adjuster is undersized for the application.

Gotcha. I'm not familiar enough with Mikunis but maybe you can find someone that does remote tunes, i.e. rent a dyno and have the tuner on-call via phone/email as you tune. You can email graphs and they recommend changes. I did this for a few customers when I was the tuner at Works. It would definitely be interesting to compare, although unfortunately comparing numbers on different dynos is pretty much useless. I've seen as much as 50hp swings between dynos with the same car. Looks like you'll have to make a trip out to Northern California!

Thanks Ryan, you should put it on the dyno and find out! Bring your jets...

Great vision and execution!