Leon

Sounds like a vacuum leak, likely from the throttle shaft seal on that barrel. There are a few methods to use to try and seal it up. First thing I'd do is just put your fingers around the shaft seal and try to hear or feel a difference in how the engine runs. Maybe apply some grease to the seal to temporarily seal it.

At least they used a 2+2...

I have a spare set of rears (P30-062) that's being dynoed at PSI. Should have them back today. I'm trying to decide between keeping them and selling...

I believe his ducting was a Coleman Grill cover... Wish I took a photo! Here's one I found: Taken from: http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/08/getting-nostalgic-norcal-bayline-gathering/#chapter-legends-rarities

I never understood it either. The only benefit I've seen is raising the rear roll center. Changing the inner pivot can raise the roll center but bringing the inner pivot further outboard also negatively affects the camber curve. I think it's a poor design but looks like it's been run "successfully"...

No, I get it, believe me! I've tuned many cars on E85 and understand its merits. I was just a surprised at the 700hp figure, would love to see you hit it.

Same here, it was our pleasure! Glad to hear you enjoyed the trip. We'll have to visit NY to check out your collection sometime!

No, I don't think 700hp is "impossible". I was merely exclaiming at Nathan's goals...

Saw a VW Bus with an EJ22 swap at a car show today. His solution to the radiator mounting problem: mount it on the roof! Nice job Ron!

Ha! For some reason, it just looked like Todd's work, very nice!

1400cc? You planning on making north of 700hp?

Blast from the past, those are long gone!

Did you have your exhaust done at Exhaust Works in Belmont? Looks just like the twice pipes that Todd built me a few years ago.

Hey Bill! Will do, but I'm not expecting any surprises. I did a test-fit with the Bilsteins tonight and looks like everything is kosher. I learned about the DP plates through this forum, there are a good number of guys running them. Here's the website (prices are not up to date, FYI): http://dpracing.co/ Don was great to deal with.

Correct, no cutting or welding required, straight bolt-in. That's why I went with the DPs! They're very nice pieces, pricey but worth it. FWIW, they aren't direct replacements for the stock upper strut mount. You need coilovers to use them as the spring seat is for a 2.5" spring.

Got a set of camber plates from DP Racing to top it all off. Pun intended.

Thanks Jim, I know you're a fan of incremental changes and the scientific process yourself! I hear you on the modern car comparison. I'd love for the Z to handle like an S2000 but that's no easy feat. I'll do my best to get it close. I will document the process and would love to have you come by! I can give you a heads up as far as when I'm planning to do the work.

It's official, booked the tickets! We'll be going from 11/21-12/6. Now the real planning begins! I'll be sure to review this thread as we make plans, feel free to throw out any more suggestions if you have any. Thanks!

Nice find John!

Which could probably be attributed to the fact that most people who cut coils don't close the ends, as posted above.

Typical coil springs have closed ends, meaning there are 2 inactive coils. From pictures found here, Tokico 280Z springs have 8 turns and 6 active coils. Using k1=185lb/in, n1=6 coils, n2=5 coils, and k2 is the unknown: k2 = k1*n1/n2 k2 = 222 lb/in This is a 20% change, which is a bit more than "not very much".

Cutting springs definitely affects spring rate, no matter whether they're linear or progressive. When cutting a progressive spring, the amount of spring rate change is dependent upon which coil you cut.

Chris, Have you had a chance to drive the car with the Bilsteins yet? Wondering how they feel without the re-valve. Thanks!

I doubt it's valve timing or head gasket. Your compression test and coolant pressure test eliminates the HG. Valve timing would affect all cylinders. Have you tried a power balance test, disabling one cylinder at a time and noting RPM drop? That may give you clues as to the offending cylinder and if it follows the carb. To me, it sounds like you've narrowed it down to the carb being the issue since the plug fouling moved when you moved the carb. Twisted throttle shaft also came to my mind, as well as some other mechanical issue with the carb, e.g. leaky starter circuit, leaking accel pump, etc.

Possibly an internal leak, such as the starter circuit? My knowledge is based on Webers, I haven't touched Mikunis but if they have similar starter circuit pistons I'd look there.