Leon

Thank you! It was bugging me that I forgot what it was!

Long-time, no-update! My 240Z shell is sold an awaiting the buyer to come up from LA with his truck and trailer! It should be gone after Christmas. This means I'm getting much closer to picking up that green 260Z! Now I just have to get the ball rolling on how exactly that will happen... Meanwhile, here's the long-awaited JCCS, Part 2. It'll be a shorter one as I need to do another Photobucket photo-dump. Here's the Z in its spot the following morning, after our arrival on Thursday night. We used Friday as a day to have some fun in SLO. I went to school at Cal Poly, so we made sure to hit all of the old spots and visit campus to marvel at the fantastic new gym facilities that they just finished. But before doing all of that, I did a quick search online to see if there were any detail shops around that could brighten up the finish on the Z. I found this little place called the "Central Coast Auto Spa" which got good reviews. I gave them a call, and they very luckily had time in their schedule that day to give the Z some attention! I drove over to a tow-yard in which the CC Auto Spa owners rented out a little space. A situation like this can seem a little iffy, but these guys were awesome!!! They're a couple of brothers who have experience detailing all sorts of cars, even high-end classics like an M-B 300SL Gullwing that they did shortly before I found them. I told them what I wanted and they were super enthusiastic as they'd never done an old Z before. I left the car with them and walked to downtown with my fiancee. I made sure to also stop by the British Classic Car shop in town, the guys there are always welcoming and always have something cool in the shop. That day was no different! Side of the shop Something that looked like a Triumph but wasn't, don't remember what it was though... Ford Anglia E494A Just a typical twin-cam Honda engine... ...shoved inside an old-school Mini Countryman! Nice, eclectic group here: an old Lancia (or something else, can't remember), nice Healey 3000, and FJ40 Land Cruiser And an old Rolls Royce (?) going through a rebuild These weren't all the "cool" cars in the shop, but the ones I uploaded pics of. I love that place! A little while later, finally got the call from the guy telling me to head down. They put in something like 4 hours of work and they charged a very reasonable rate. I loved their work and enthusiasm these guys put into their work. You could tell they genuinely enjoyed it! I was stunned. The final results spoke for themselves: My god, the Z has never looked this good! I was pumped!!! We went to campus, stopped by the old neighborhoods, had some amazing Thai food at our favorite place and called it a night. After all, we have to get up at 4am the next morning... better get packing. 'Til next time, enjoy the holidays guys!

I've not heard of that method of intake tuning. Length is the critical feature here, with diameter being secondary. Wave tuning depends on tract lengths, because it's the wavelength (and travel time) that determine a "tuned" rpm. I'm not sure what you're going off of, but a tuned length at 5300rpm would be more like 27 inches for the 2nd harmonic! Because of size constraints, intakes (and exhaust manifolds) are typically tuned for the 3rd or 4th harmonic. I've dumped a bunch of info on tract tuning on this site if you want to delve deeper. Once you have a tuned length, set the diameter big enough as to not choke the flow but small enough as to maximize the kinetic "ram effect" at high RPM. Valve timing changes the amount of time the wave has to travel inside the intake. Longer valve open times give the wave more time to travel down, reflect and come back to the intake valve, so the resonance tuning gains are realized at higher RPM, and vice versa for shorter duration. Oh, got a bit off-topic didn't we...

Looks like you might be right, I hadn't heard of that before. Learn something new everyday! However, an L26 would possibly also need to be notched on the intake side when using the larger 280Z valves.

Changing a water pump has nothing to do with the timing chain. 1) Remove drive belt 2) Remove fan, fan clutch and pulley 3) Remove water pump, careful with the fasteners (use penetrant) 4) Put it back together and bleed the cooling system It's not difficult, just be careful with the radiator fins. Remove the rad if you feel like it.

Ray, they're all in the FSM! Check the Body section.

Center it and adjust accordingly once it's running. Just do it by the diagram in the MJ install guide.

You're correct, Megajolt has a trigger offset option. Up to 10deg from what I remember, but it takes away from total possible advance (not like you'll be running 50deg BTDC anyway).

This isn't a "post your own ads" section. To post For Sale ads you must be a donating member and post in the correct forum.

"Race Car Vehicle Dynamics" by Milliken and Milliken. And why did you post in the vendor's forum?

Very nicely done, you're off to a GREAT start! One tip: run it on EDIS in limp-mode before hooking up PIP and SAW signals, to make sure the install is ok before getting MJLJ involved.

Got it, I thought you meant you were keeping the stock mounts on the body.

Very nice, I'm loving this project! I really like that the mounts and adapter can be sourced, makes things a little easier. Sounds like it fits better than a VH45, too. Also it's a plus that the Z33 6-speed fits in the tunnel without cutting/modifications. How's the shifter location looking?

A '71 can have the early or late diff position. I don't remember what month that changed but probably around mid-year (6/71?). I bet you have a simpler issue: flip your front diff mount.

That's because WD-40 is a water dispersant, not a rust penetrant. Get some Liquid Wrench, Kano Kroil or PB blaster to soak fasteners.

Cool project! How is header clearance to the frame and to the steering shaft? How are you mounting the 6-speed? Keep it up!

There shouldn't any tuning issues with the carbs if they're staying on the same engine.

Sweet! That Z is going to be a monster!

Actually, it's the opposite. Running rich and/or retarded timing will increase EGT and can cause the exhaust manifold to glow red.

Don't forget deceleration as well. Wider tires up front will improve traction during heavy braking.

I can't say whether it was worth it or not, but I did mine. Not the most fun job, but damn it felt good to accomplish it!

I couldn't care less about what others think about S30s, personally. If some random guy doesn't like the car, what's the big deal? Just move on.

100% poly here too, tightens up the car a lot and is not too harsh for me. The only rubber suspension bushings on my Z are the two rear TC rod bushings in order to give it enough compliance without too much deflection. People complain of squeaks but I liberally lubricated the bushings upon installation with the given grease and haven't had an issue. They've been installed for over 1.5 years and thousands of miles.

Oh man, that sucks big time. This is part of the reason why I put some extra insurance coverage on my Z recently. I'm in San Bruno and have SBPD in my phonebook. Thanks for posting, I'll keep an eye out.

That is some FANTASTIC work! Everything is looking beautiful and I love the attention to detail. Countless hours have surely went into this build.