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619kris, on 24 Jul 2013 - 01:04 AM, said: [[i don't know what dope means describing a car. I am old school. Is that a good thing?]] C'mon, man....get with the times! "Dope" means it's phat. Does that help?

My 260Z w/ SBC runs in the X Prepared class, which gives me a pretty stiff PAX handicap (i.e. I have to run a faster raw time to be competitive with cars in most other classes). Usually my main competition in XP comes from Shelby replicars. A couple things to keep in mind if auto-x is your main focus: 1) the V8 results in a heavier front end, which can be a liability on tight courses, given the Z's lack of power steering, and 2) the V8's torque and power will quickly highlight the lack of LSD if you're running the standard open diff R180 or R200. Don't get me wrong....I have a blast running my Z in a variety of HPDE, but if your main goal is to be competitive in auto-x, there are probably cheaper and easier ways to get there. Obviously, there are plenty of guys who have had great success in their Z cars (both with the straight-6 and V8s), but the cars have typically been highly modified, driven by very experienced and highly-skilled drivers. (Now I'll stand by for a wave of blast attacks from my fellow Z enthusiasts. )

Or get this part: http://arizonazcar.com/diffmount.html

There's been a few threads on this topic....here's one of them: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/82712-finally-replaced-the-fusible-links/?&p=783658&fromsearch=1&do=findComment&comment=783658 Good luck.

Glad to hear it might be working well for you, Mike. You should check out the next GripFest event at NCCAR this fall (Oct 26). Event info can be found at the "Grip Syndicate" website and FB page. It's a beautiful venue and a great event. Would love to see your car there (and you, of course, too! ) Hope the motor holds up ok.

Yep, working for me as well now. Thx, Dan....you da' man!

I'll second LanceVance's comments on eBay seats. If you're looking to avoid the high cost of new brand-name seats, you might be better off looking at some high-quality used OE or aftermarket seats. You'll get a better price and you can actually sit in them before laying out your hard-earned cash. I'm sure you've already seen them, but the 'seat' threads in this sub-forum that have some great info on various seat installations in all years of S30 -- I've referred back to them several times over the last couple of years. I'm a real tight-wad....for my money, it's hard to beat used Honda seats. They've got some really comfortable, supportive and stylish seats, even in their cheaper models. Good luck with whatever you decide and be sure to post your results in one of the "Seat" threads!

I've had great luck with "db electrical" starters. Their products, prices and customer service have been nothing short of excellent. I'm currently using this model on my mild SBC 350...I really like the fact that the housing supports the pinion vs the "open-style pinion" on many of the other aftermarket starters. http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/p-1319-new-chevy-305-350-454-mini-racing-pmgr-starter-ht-sdr0031-l.aspx Good luck and happy motoring!

Well, what the heck....might as well throw one of mine up too. Note the "HybridZ" sticker displayed prominently!!

Wow....a single-owner '71 240. Now THAT'S something you don't see too often! Hope you find HybridZ.org helpful and interesting.

Attached is the body electrical chapter from a 240 FSM. The full FSM for all year S30s can be found at "www.xenons30.com". Hope this helps. The gauges can be most easily reached after removing the center heating/vent controls. BE Body Electrical.pdf

Whatever you decide to do, Mike, I've really enjoyed (and learned a lot from) your build thread. And I agree with Matt.....it's pretty damn cool when a 40-year old "antique" Datsun beats a bunch of new, high-priced, high-tech cars at the track. Good luck with whatever direction you decide to pursue.

Interesting input, peej410....can you elaborate? I was not aware of any negative influences of the filter top on carbed intakes -- do you have any reference material or data to share? I would be very interested to learn more on this, as I was considering a similar filter top for my intake if Mike had favorable results with his new setup. Thx much!

Thx for posting your results, Mike.....I'm using that exact same low-profile air plenum, and will now definitely need to rethink my intake system!! Would appreciate it if you could keep this thread going as you continue to experiment with different setups. r/John

Hey Dan- I'm experiencing similar but different issue with loading albums. I having no problem creating a new album, but I receive the following message when I try to upload images to the album: "Error The server returned an error during upload". Is this a system issue, or am I doing something wrong? Thx, as always, for your excellent help. r/John Meyer

Hot post in the engine compartment; cheap battery box from Summit with vent hose through fender well. Have since added a cut-off switch to the ground cable.

The original poster was wanting to install new springs, so I'm assuming he was asking how to unbolt the half-shafts from the axle in order to get more droop/extension to remove the rear springs. He hasn't chimed in since his original post 3 weeks ago, so I'm not sure if he ever got the info he needed. I think the thread title "U joints" might be misleading of the original intent of this thread, but you guys have actually led it in a useful direction relevant to the title...kudos!

And don't forget to check all your grounds...they are often the issue when the lights are working sporadically. Most (if not all) of the ground points for the rear lights are in the rear hatch, behind the taillight cover panel.

Read this: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/56254-after-doing-some-reading-i-blocked-off-the-upper-grill-pics/ There's a bunch of info on this topic scattered throughout the various sub-forums. Search on topics like "engine running hot" and "cooling problems" and you'll ferret out most of it. Good luck and happy motoring.

In addition to a fan shroud, you'll need to pay attention to sealing the front end of your car (i.e. the space between your front grill and the radiator). This will ensure that all the air goes through your radiator. Good luck with it.

Even after reading your post a couple of times, I'm not sure if I entirely understand your situation; but the attached schematic should help you troubleshoot your problem...pull your ignition switch and check if it's wired correctly. Good luck with it.

If you're talking about the bolts on the half-shafts that comprise the rear axle, I use combination of open-end and box-end wrenches (13mm, if I remember correctly). It's pretty tight quarters in there, so a variety of lengths and wrench thicknesses can help you find the best combination. It also helps to spin the axle to get each bolt in the optimum position for loosening. And obviously, penetrating oil and heat can help if your bolts are corroded. Hope this helps.

Try here: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SIC07D01 and here: http://www.zcarsource.com/rear-strut-cap-240z-260z-280z_8_56306.html Hope this helps.