stravi757

I put an engine from a parts car I got into my 280z. I just wanted something to get it back on the road for the mean time. Engine looked clean from the outside, but I dont know the history of the motor. I did a compression test cold and got roughly 140 across the board. I decided to drop the engine in and got in running. I had a fews bugs that have all been sorted out and the engine starts runs and drives excellent(super smooth). But I have burned about 1 quart or more in less than 50 miles of driving and idling in my driveway. The things I have done are... checked the PCV valve: found it was faulty replaced replaced all the valve seals: engine seems to not be blowing as large of clouds of smoke I disconnected the PCV hose and valve cover breather. made no difference with smoke out the tail pipe checked the plugs, They all have deposit on them. But none of them are wet. The only things I can think of that are causing this are broken ringlands, Stuck oil control rings, and worn cylinder walls. I dont know any tests to check if these are the problem though. Also I just noticed my oil pressure gauge isnt reading past 1/4 the gauge as rpm increases. I am going to look into this to figure out the problem. Could just be a faulty gauge or sender. But thought I would add that incase it could be an underlying cause... What idea do you guys have?

found one, thanks.

I need a known working two plug style IC Ignition module for an N/A 280zx(82 may fit not sure) Need it sent ASAP. Please get to me with a price shipped to 94526.

You want to run KYB's with tokico's? I believe thats a no no. With an rb25 swap too? hmm Yes, you can run those size rims. You are going to have to cut you front fenders and rear quarters though, which maybe you already plan on doing. They make the rota RBR's in the exact size you want.

No auto ecu is fine. I also recommend just buying a stock turbo harness if the harness in you car has a bunch of modifications and isnt working. You should be able to pick up a stock harness for $100 or less If I were you I would also just read the turbo wiring swap guide on the forums. It could be a very simple fix. They may have just install one wire incorrectly from the ecu to the coil preventing it from getting spark while cranking(which would be like a 5minute fix) I would come by and help if I wasnt so far away. But be patient and take your time looking for the problem. When I was younger and completely inexperienced I almost gave up too swapping a turbo harness into an S30. I now laugh at myself. it really isnt tuff with no experience if you just have PATIENCE.

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I have a set of turbo injectors. I have a few housing laying around but not all from a zx. If thats not a problem let me know.

I have a 280z crossmember and steering rack.

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I have a few sets of swastika rims. not really sure if its worth it to ship. You ever in Northern california?

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http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/3896568147.html Kind of a joke though, oakland lol.

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First You need to download the FSM and read through it to understand each sensor on your car and how they function. DO NOT SKIP THIS PART ITS EASY Your first problem with the car randomly dying on the road sounds like either you have a bad coil or ignitor. Next time it happens, pop your hood and pull the wire going to the distributor from the coil. Place the wire going from the coil next to metal and crank the engine and see if its getting spark. Your problem on startups when hot could be from heat soak in the fuel rail. your issue from cold starts could be many things, starting with the FSM would be the way to go.

There is your problem haha. But yes, those wires are what connect to the battery to give everything power. The cable on the + battery post just gives the starter power, which obviously wont turn since you cant give it signal from the ignition switch since you have no power in the car. If you read through the FSM you will be able to tell which wires came from where, and what kind of fuses you need to put between those wires and the battery. The white wires are all power to the body harness i believe. And I think the little green and brown wires are power to ECU. Where did you get this car? I dont understand why someone would have cut out that part of the wiring harness, unlesss it was a parts car of from the JY? Anyways this isnt a tuff fix.

Just because the engine died when you pulled the chts still does not mean the sensor is functioning properly. While it does indicate the sensor is giving some sort of reading to the ECU, it does not mean the reading is accurate(the sensor needs to be tested). Like mentioned multiple times above. Your best bet is to read through the FSM. Its really tough to say what you problem is with the information your giving us. The FSM does an amazing job of explaining each sensor and how they work. Im sure it will answer most of your questions. I canot stress this enough. If you read through it to help diagnose your problem and still cant find out whats wrong. I bet you will atleast know much more about your engine and be able to direct us better in helping figure out whats wrong.

I have been using my 280zx as my DD for about 2 1/2 years now and I love it. I honestly dont see myself buying a different car as my DD any time in the near future. The car is rock solid, it has never left mt stranded. Since I have been driving it I grow more attached to it every day. It is awesome especially in the summer. I own both a ZX and S30, I love them both but when it comes to DD, the ZX is far superior in comfort(seats, ride quality, power steering, all of the luxuries/amenities, noise level, and general feel). So if your looking for A DD, I say %100 go for the ZX. You will not regret it!

Are there any "properly" designed progressive springs on the market for a 280z? I have Tokicos myself, but i felt they were a little stiff and too much of a drop for daily driving. Not that they were overly stiff by any means, just too stiff for me. I am personally going for a car that has slight drop from stock(but still makes it over speed bumps no problem), and is better handling than stock without sacrificing much comfort. I thought that the eibachs would have been a good candidate. Sounds like they are a waste of time now...

yes they are different. the trubo Throttle body does no have a bypass for idle.

I am having no luck with finding information on people using the OEM style Mckinney engine mounts for the L-engine. I wanted to hear from someone using them Their experience over the stock mounts. Are they built to last longer/stronger? Do they have much engine vibration compared to the stock? And are there any issues with lowering the engine when pulling the tranny with this design vs. stock as well?

Yes. poly bushings and the car is lowered. I have already drilled holes into the ploy bushing for when I reinstall the new strut rod. And i will be going back to stock struts and springs soon as well. I hate the tokico suspension in my ZX. And I have a new Rod on the way. Thanks HBZ.