ZHoob2004

The factory tach needs to see a high voltage pulse to register, the MS is either 5v or 12v (can't recall) and won't be enough. I believe you can make a simple circuit using a transistor and a coil (not the ignition kind but the same principle) that will adapt that signal to work with your tach. I've also heard of using the coil winding in a relay for this purpose, but you would have to remove the mechanical switch inside the relay to not be driven insane.

Core plugs for the coolant passages. My machinist said there's usually no reason to remove them.

I'm about 90% sure both of those are for the washer reservoir, which you yourself removed...

I might have just the thing for you. I came across this manual about a year ago in preparation to install these carbs on my L28 (I haven't got that far yet, but they're intended as a placeholder until I go standalone). You may find what you need in here. 1973 240z 1974 260z fuel system modifications.pdf

I'm not sure I'm an experienced enough engine builder to comment more on this, but that logic doesn't really make sense to me. The oil has the same thickness, and should allow/prevent wear at the same rate. Afaik, synthetic oils claim the same friction and viscosity specs as their conventional counterparts, which should result in the same film thickness and protection, without the tendency to break down like conventional oils. If you're really curious, you could always call amsoil and ask what they think. I'm pretty confident they'll say it doesn't make a difference.

Why break in with a non-synthetic oil and not simply start with the high-zinc stuff? (And potentially any additives required for cam break-in)

Looking at the 78 wiring diagram (available here), it looks like the fuel pump should be triggered by the same wire as the starter solenoid (the black/yellow one that connects to the ignition switch). Since the starter works, I suspect a break between that wire and the fuel pump control relay, or that relay is not behaving as it should.

Year/make/model?

Size of the pulley depends on the speeds the alternator is rated for together with your expected rev range and the size of your crank pulley. On a hunch I think you'll be close enough no matter what size you end up with, but you may want to double check or ask the shop.

Have you gone to an alternator/starter specialist shop? They should be able to help you. Anyone that can rebuild an alternator in house. I see a place in West Jordan called "Generator Exchange" that you might want to call, didn't see anything closer on google maps but ymmv.

I have 639560 and 639570 on my car, not sure which one was which.

Personally I'd treat the thing with some phosphoric acid rust converter (the usual stuff, ospho, naval jelly, rustoleum makes one, etc.) and then cover it in primer once it's neutralized. Then I'd ignore it, because it's in the spare tire well. Also, find and fix whatever leak let water get in in the first place.

I ran my Z for about a year with the above configuration (no solenoids/tank, check valve to manifold) and it held pretty ok, but I didn't have heat (no coolant, leaks in cabin). I didn't really notice the vents moving out of place in low-vacuum conditions, but I didn't have boost to contend with, so there was always some vacuum. I think there's enough volume in the dash system that it takes about 10 seconds or so to leak down.

Ok I failed a bit at reading comprehension there, but it sounds like the "vacuum cock", as Nissan calls it, is still in place, just the solenoids and vacuum tank are missing. There should be a small vacuum line poking through the firewall near the battery. This is the vacuum source for all the under-dash actuators and should be connected through a check valve to your intake. Inside the car, this connects to the vacuum selector valve which is directly controlled by the air lever. With this connected, you should hear your climate control flaps move when you change the position on the lever, and this may get your heat back by itself. As long as there's a check valve in the line, you shouldn't have too much problem with boost (depending how fast your actuators leak down). If you do have problems you can add a vacuum tank to give you a bit more time on boost before your vents all move.

I'm pretty sure the number on the key isn't the actual bitting code, but is instead what's called a blind code, which has to be looked up in a book (that may be gone or locked up in Nissan headquarters) that associates the blind codes with the actual key codes. That said, there is a service called instacode that I have seen recommended by hackers and lock enthusiasts for looking up key codes, blind codes and bitting values. It's not very expensive, to get one month and then cancel, but I've never personally tried it, and any decent locksmith should already have this or equivalent. A bit of a longshot, but maybe a Nissan dealer could look up the codes? Not sure if they would even know how to do it, but maybe if you could get ahold of someone who's worked there for 40 years...

Check the dumb things first, especially in a car with an engine swap. Are the heater hoses even hooked up to the firewall? It's not uncommon to bypass the heater core when swapping engines, especially when these cars have a tendency to leak coolant inside the dash. Many owners simply block them off and run without heat.

I just wanted to chime in and say good job for concealing the key code in the image (a lot of people don't realize how easy they are to measure) I think a competent locksmith should be able to help you with measuring and cutting new keys, but I feel like the problem might be in the ignition cylinder itself. You could also look online for some references to use photoshop or another tool to measure the code yourself based on your picture. If it still works, it hasn't deviated much from the original measurements and the heights are standardized, though finding the exact standard may be a bit of a trick. Calipers can also measure the bitting height.

I don't know how it is on the 75, but on the 77 you can reach down into that panel from above in the trunk area. I can touch the factory bumper nuts on my 77 from behind.

I found this paper while searching. There's a lot of garbage, but page 3 has a section on the right-hand side that might be helpful. http://www.nacomm07.ammindia.org/Contents/papers/NaCoMM-2007-106.pdf It seems that ideally you would be able to turn the wheel 90 degrees in each direction, putting the wheel directly behind and in front of the ball joints, allowing you to simply subtract the two camber angles and leave only the caster angle. All the multiplication is doing is calculating that same difference from a smaller angle. After further review of the above paper, I've found it mostly only applies to their special tool that they invented. This paper appears to cover the actual math of caster calculation, and shows that the aforementioned multipliers are, in fact, an approximation. https://disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/24543/steering-geometry-and-caster-measurement[1].pdf According to this, caster can be calculated as (180/pi)*(camber1-camber2)/(toe1-toe2) or (180*camber difference)/(pi*swept angle). This would mean with a 30 degree sweep, your multiplier should actually be 1.91, and 1.43 for a 40 degree sweep. By this logic, you would use a multiplier of 0.95 for a 60 degree sweep, very close to your inferred 1.0.

Black dragon stopped selling Z parts about 2 years ago, so they aren't going to have them. I have one of their passenger side fenders (one of the last ones they shipped) and it fits like garbage, so the aftermarket option might not be what you want anyway, though others may have had better luck. ZTrix does offer stock-shaped fiberglass fenders, available here https://www.ztrix.com/customers/stock-fiberglass-replacement-body-parts/ Aside from the other options you've listed, you might look around for someone local with a parts car. Good condition OEM will fit better than aftermarket, IMO, but you'll probably pay for it. There are also several facebook groups that deal in Z parts that might be able to hook you up with someone local or at least point you in the right direction.

I'd still send it. Like I said above, if the valves still seem to move properly, I'd throw a gasket and $10 timing belt at it and see if it lasts. Worst case, you still need an engine and you can do that then.

If the cams are installed, there will always be some valves open. If a valve is open and its corresponding rocker is loose, then you have a problem. Another way to check is use a wrench on the cam (there should be a spot you can use to rotate it) and rotate it a full turn and check that the valves open and close as they should. Looking at the block again, I would definitely run that as is. Head gasket seals along the rims of the cylinders, that part is just a bit rusted away because of coolant exposure. As long as the valves don't have any problems, just clean it up, check for flatness, and slap another gasket on there.

If you really think you need a bigger turbo, go ahead and get one. As above, it's your car, make sure you're happy with it. At the same time, Garrett claims this turbo is suitable for 280-475HP and engines 1.8-3.0L, so maybe they know what they're talking about. Keep in mind that these are a pretty significant jump in technology and performance from your old turbo, and you'll probably be surprised with how well it works.

It's hard to argue with a $500 longblock... https://jdmengineworld.com/product/jdm-d17a-engine-only/ Of note, since you're in california, one of these JDM engines wouldn't technically be smog legal because it was never sold in the US (JDM engines are D17A, yours is D17A2). I've seen a few people on Honda forums say they just stamped a "2" after their engine designation, and it's probably never going to be checked anyway since nobody knows you did a swap. I have a JDM B16 in my CRX that I've personally put a little over 50k on with no problems that weren't self-inflicted. I believe the motor to have somewhere around 125k now. My Motor is a 91 and was installed sometime in the early 2000s, so longevity is certainly there. If it weren't for the stuck valves in your case, I'd be tempted to just put the head back with a new gasket and run it, even with that pit between the cylinders, though I think it might have some sealing issues. JB weld?

You say you have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, are you sure it's set to the stock fuel pressure that the ECU expects? Have you put a gauge on your fuel rail to measure this? Is it plumbed correctly? Is your return line large enough for your upgraded pump? Have your injectors been changed? If it's running rich, you have too much fuel (you know this already), so you're either getting more fuel than expected or not enough air. I don't think an 02 sensor will change the fueling enough to make the engine die, same with coolant sensor. The rest seems to be largely irrelevant to the issue as well, with the exception of the Z32 MAF. I don't know if they're the same as stock or not. Is it possible to switch the MAF back? Could you test with a different MAF?